MusPuppis

I dunno.. I'm sure some folks see it that way, but I'm not one them. If I had 80k to spend on a car, bet on my Z getting the Rb26DETT and one way or another becoming AWD with one hell of a motor and chasis buildup to boot. Z's have always captivated me from the first moment I saw a beat up, peice of utter and complete **** 280 sitting in a parking lot rotting away. I was 15, and from that day on, Ive been hooked. I am one of the penny pinchers though - lol. And man, I am one broke son of a gun. But the low cost of the Z is never what appealed to (its a nice thing though imo..) its the look and feel of the car. I agree completely with the aftermarket though. Z folks are by and large a group of DIYers.

The stock TB will work but it becomes a limiting factor when your heads and intake are flowing high. You also might not want to go with the E303. Its a nice cam - and I know emissions are a factor for some poeple, BUT, its best to tailor the cam to the application. I'll fully admit my limited knowledge when it comes to cams and whats good and what time and why.. But I know looking into one "matched" with the heads, intake and application (street, strip, cruise, track, whatever) is the best option. New it breaks down something like this: AFR185's - 1350$ Cam (random price since I dunno which one is actually best) - 180$ Intake - 400$ or so TB - 180$ FRP - 80$-ish Good filter/piping - 80$ Thats 2.2k - Not bad. Now you have to factor in all the basic crap you need. Head gaskets, new head bolts, assorted other gaskets and tidbits, new timing chain and gears (important imo) etc etc. Other tuneup items, like oil filter, oil, plugs, probably wires, better coil - on and on. This could get into the 500$ range all said and done. Add in the cost of getting the ECU tuned (No idea on cost.. 400$ maybe for a dyno tune?) and you have your basic 400hp build. Looking for a number like 400 can be a little daunting. The general mods to the engine to allow for it require domino mods to make them work effectively. Bigger heads, bigger intake, bigger intake, bigger TB, bigger TB, better piping, better piping, better filter. Bigger injectors/more fuel pressure, better coil and ignition, on and on. We're still leaving out suspension and brake mods. Not to mention clutch or converter to handle the power. Of course, this is all just fluff really. We got off track and away from the original posters questions. 24 oz. I would really suggest jumping over to Stangnet for the info. Once upon a time I knew but its been a while since I looked into the 5.0's and Ive lng since forgot, lol.

If you're wanting to hit the 400 mark a new intake will definatly be needed. Or go to Stangnat and look for a member named Tmoss. He ports the stock lowers to flow like crazy. The stock uppers are pretty damn nice as-is. New TB as well. Its not as easy to make 400hp as some folks seem to think it is. Your looking to nearly double the output of the engine. While the 302 definatly has the potential, dont expect to toss a couple bolt-ons into the engine bay and make numbers like that without some investment. Remember, the flow increase in the new heads doesnt mean a whole lot if the stock intake (which is somewhat poor) and TB arent delivery enough air for the heads to utilize. The stock Mustang EFI system is fine (dont get speed density.. 86-87 models I think). A number of different types of tuners can program it. You'r going to almost certainly need to get it done if you plan on making 400hp. Your basicly changing, to one degree or another, everything in the engine except the block and internals themselves. THis will really require proper tuning or the stock ECU will greatly limit the power you see.

HAHAHAHAHAAH Of course this does further erode the already moth eaten fabric of our legal system. Its amazing something like could even get to court. Its also amazing of course, that someone is so deeply and truley a yuppie twit that 15 minutes alone in a bathroom causes "Stress" to the point they lose consciousness (sp?) and honestly feel they have suffered enough to warrant damages being paid. Another thing though.. Who the hell doesnt check the toilet seat in a public place before sitting down? I dont mean scour it for glue.. I mean scour it for potential **** smears.

Haha, Was born in Maryland actually but Ive lived here since I was 3.. so for all practical purposes.. Im a Kentuckian. We do have some smart folks here, as Im sure you know, but they keep to themselves and dont mingle with the rest of us. Theys got homes what aint got no weels.

I've used Duplicolor and VHT before and liked them both. I did a CRX interior for a friend that turned out great.. I wish I could find pics. If you've seen their interior before the top of the door panels and the top of the dash are kinda sectioned off, they make a flowing line through the interior. We sprayed it all red (forget the exact shade) to match the cars paint. Used VHT on that one.. It looked really good. I used Duplicolor on my truck though. Was less expensive and more readily available. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/752497. You can see the before and after of the door panels and dash. Good stuff. I'm interested in this SEM stuff. When I go to put the Z back together suprisingly a few of the interior parts are salvagable, but they'll need some "pepping up".

I'm loving the compressor. I have a cheapy DA sander I've been beating the hell out of my Z with and the compressor keeps it running just fine. I've never had to stop or slow down. It kicks it on kinda quick but it keeps up without any problem. I've also been practicing paint procedure with an HVLP gun and a cheapy primer and the compressor does a great job on that. The wiring is working fine. 25 feet doesnt even get warm under load from the compressor. I ended up going with a flexible 10 guage, 3 wire deal. Was something like 1.75 a foot. Yellow sleeve, thick stuff - really nice. Good quality casing, very flexible. I searched the Lowes website but couldnt find it there.. *Shrug* I hate their site anyway. I got a standard dryer male plug from Lowes as well for about 8$. All in all I think the end cost was about 50$ for my big-*** extension cord. If you only had to run it a few feet (6 or less) Lowes sells 10/3 cords with male plugs already attached for like 8-14$ in 4-6ft lengths. If you buy it, you'll need to buy a reducer fitting if you run a normal 3/8's hose. The compressor's outlet fitting is 1/2in. Its like 2$ for the reducer (lowes carrys it as well). Only reason I mentioned it is cause I got all the way home, unpacked everything, wired it, set it up, and like a jack-*** didnt notice I needed the fitting until hooking the hose up was the last thing I had to do. Lowes was closed by then =/

Curious about a mods list as well.. When the body and suspension is done (assuming that day ever actually comes) I'm going L28 turbo. I have a rough build in my head, but I'd like love to see what you've done.

Great vids. I love the way those two Z's sound in the first video. Awsome fadeout to the third one to, hehe "Datsun".

Looks good man, I cant wait to see updates. God I wanna do the RB swap.

Thats why I love living in Ky. No emissions crap to worry about. So long as you have cats on your car, your about good to go.

That should really move you pretty well. I have a 94 F-150 that weighs about 5000pds with a lightly built 5.0 in it. I'd estimate it making something to the tune of 250-270hp at the crank or something and it will haul that truck around pretty damn efficiently. I also have a piss-poor rear end (3.13's or somesuch nonesence) and the stock single out, soda-straw diameter exhuast. A quick question.. You mention having an 88 5.0.. Out of what? Just curious cause, to my knowledge, the Stangs were the only ones with roller 5.0's in 'em and theres a heft difference in the 5.0's you get out of Crown Vics (160hp, 250trq I beleive) F-150's (my old motor.. 180hp, 280trq or so) and various other versions to be found crammed into late 80's, early 90's Fords. Another potential option would be a H/C/I package. Trick Flow and Holley both make a package for the 5.0. They run about 2000$ and include an intake, cam and heads + ALL the gaskets/hardware/crap for the install. New timing chain and gears as well. Its really a fantastic deal when you look at the claimed improvements (I beleive they claim it will get you in the upper 300's on a stock 5.0, nearing 400hp) + all thats included in the package. I know you mentioned JYing some heads and wanting to mod the engine with a keen eye to cost, so I dont know how large your budget is, but for the 5.0's its tough to beat the cost vs effectiveness of the H/C/I packages. Granted, the ones I listed are for EFI vehicles, but I'm sure some poking around would find similar packages for carbed cars. Oh, the AFR165-185 heads are REALLY friggen good, lol.

I think before I even registered what had happened I was assesing the damage visible to motor, brakes and rims. Kinda hateful to see that carnage and the first thing that comes to mind is "I hope someone can salvage that and it doesnt go to waste.. lol

Damn skippy it is.. Jeebus, lol. Btw, I got the plans. Havent had the time to build it yet.. Probably wont be until December. Im scrambling this month to get the Z ready for prime by Thanksgiving. I have to say though, after looking them over and looking over the info on the usergroup.. I'm REALLY liking the setup. I havent priced anything yet but I'm betting I can build this thing for about 60$ or less, providing I find a cheap/free tank which wont be hard. I know a local JY that has a couple old tanks laying around in the 25gallon range, which would be perfect for my needs. If they dont just let me have em I'll be suprised. Easy as hell to put together to. Im stupid as hell and it all makes sense to me, which is amazing cause I get a headache reading fast food menu's.

Here in Ky I know of two poeple who have their permits, neither of which ever having driven a car before. Ever. THAT is frightening. I'm glad the kids ok.

http://www.ammoman.com/RobsProjects/ Let me start by saying I'm not affiliated with Rob in any way. I came across a thread on http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/ about sandblasters and such. The plans hes selling caught my eye and they seem to come recommended by some folks there who have looked them over. I'll be ordering a set in the next week or so.

Well, you can grind the welds down. If their penetrated properly they will be as strong, or stronger than the base metal itself.. Leaving the beads there will increase strength but I dont know that it would matter in any way. Others more experienced will be able to confirm or deny that though. Me personally, I like the look of weld beads. I'd dress em a little bit. Grind em down some and even it all out but leave some buildup for strength and appearance. You could also grind em down a little and use body filler to kinda mold a smooth "hill" in for looks. Assuming your going to paint the area of course. Yeah.. I'll be in that situation before long. I'm hoping to get it as high as I safely can on jackstands to make a little more room. I also thought about getting an engine hoist and hooking it to the engine mounts on the crossmember (engine and such will be removed by then) and using the hoist to lift it way up. Not sure about how safe that would be though. Not that I think a 2 ton engine hoist will drop a car with nothing but the suspension left attached - but since the crossmember isnt meant for that sort of thing I kinda worry it would damage it or something. I dunno.

Flux Core wouldnt be any stronger than argon MIG welding. The heat doesnt have (to my knowledge) any real effect on the strength of the weld itself. The wire, base metal, prep work and penetration do. Of course, more heat means more penetration but with thinner metals a 100+amp MIG should be more than sufficient to get all the penetration you would ever need, gas or gasless. Granted, when welding thicker metals you could get more penetration with Flux Core allowing for a stronger weld. I have a 100amp Lincoln MIG I run Flux Core through and its a real pain in the *** on thin metal. I have practice metal from my pans (what little there was..) and Ive been trying to run test beads on it.. I burn through that stuff as fast as I can get the arc started. I'm kinda concerned with my machines low-end capabilities. Its a staged machine (I dont remember the term off-hand.. tapped voltage? or something) meaning my amp adjustments are pre-set. I choose A, B, C or D, lol. Wirespeed is fully adjustable though.. Which has a real effect on heat and penetration but even running as low as I can go I have real trouble holding an arc without burning straight through the moment I try to form a puddle. What machine did you run and what settings? Just curious. I see your in Kentucky.. Ever come down through Lexington? Thats where I'm located. Oh, and for subframes, check out 240Hoke's website. He did some great frame repair work. I'll be emulating his subframe's when I get my steel later this month.

Wholey crap. Ya know.. You could weld in some seat mounts and put an extra seat in front of that thing. Not a bad looking engine though. Teeny.

Thats a slick lookin car. Even aside from the work hes done to it (which is heavenly..) the lines and profile are nice. Never seen one before. That engine setup is nuts..

Would it be possible to find a "short engine" and mount it as far forward in the bay as humanly possible? You mention its a show car and not so much based on performance, so I dont see weight bias being an issue. With the engine pushed forward a ways you could fab up a fake firewall mounted a healthy ways forward to cover up the components on the stock firewall. I wonder if it would be possble to further this effect by removing the stock firewall and locating it an inch or two further into the cab. Granted, I have no idea how it would look and what clearance issues would come up but its what comes to mind. With some artistic flare and some interesting paint work I would think the fake firewall wouldnt have to cover all the components. You could make sheet metal/fiberglass "covers" for the compents and perhaps employ some pin striping or paint effects in the engine bay to tie it all together and kind of work the shapes into the over-all theme. I know the rotary engines are pretty tiny, God knows what kind of room you'd have for covers/relocated components with a rotary swapped in. The SR20DET is also a great looking engine that doesnt take up a whole lot of room, but of course with a turbo motor theres more crap to hide. The SHO motors are quite nice looking as mentioned. A member made a post recently about an Opel Manta and the engine in the car impressed me. Of course, hes done a metric ***-ton of work to it, but the shape and semetry are great. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105672

I cant speak with any real authority, but I dont know if your compressor would be able to run much of any gun. I have a 3.5hp, 7 peak, 60 gallon that pushs 13.3 CFM @ 90 psi and when I start to spray it pops the compressor on pretty quick. It keeps up pretty well though. If your only doing a small amount of spraying and go really slow, maybe it could handle it.. But I dunno. You mention it being a 300$ repair.. Really, you could run pretty close to that doing it yourself. Cheapy two part primer will run you about 30$ (at the very low end..). The DP90 stuff is around 40$ a quart + 22$ for the catalyst, sand paper and blocks is another 20$, paint gun (if you go that route) is 25-30$ for a low end one, etc. It'll be cheaper definatly, but it'll still cost a bit. What I've been using, with great success is 3m Sandblaster sand paper. You can pick it up at Lowes, Home Depo or Wal-Mart and its great stuff in my opinion. The pack I've been using is a 3 pack of the large sheets, 60 grit, 120, 320. The 60 cuts down the shine quick and you can get through the paint pretty easily, then I go over it the 120 to smooth it all and shape any body filler I've used, then use the 320 to smooth all the scratchs down and feather the edges of any filler you've used. I'm sure those more experienced with body work can give better suggestions, but thats what Ive been doing on my car it seems to be going very well. If you go this route *do not* just use rattle can primer. Its not designed to seal out moisture or anything. A week or two will go by and you'll start to see rust forming on the surface. I would go to Lowes and grab a few cans of Rustoleom's automotive primer and their automotive top coat stuff. The top coat will seal out moisture and protect the panel alot better than just the primer. Its like 3.50$ a can or something. It is my understanding that two-part epoxy primers do act as sealers. A primer called DP90LF would fit the bill. It comes *highly* recommended by some folks here on Hybrid. It seems to run about 40$ a quart + 22$ for the catalyst (approx. anyway, Im sure prices fluctuate some with location). Its a PPG product. I will be using it to primer my entire car when the time comes. Hope this helps.

Amazing video.. Listen to that thing scream. I think its got alot to do with GT4 not being real. lol. You cant compare a game (no matter how good) to real life and what a car in the game and a car in rl could do in any given situation. Dont get me wrong, I love GT4 but I just dont see how a comparison could reasonably be made.

Out of curiosity, Are folks allowed to make their own shirts/vinyl? (personal use, not to sell of course) Reason I ask, is I'd like a shirt, but I wear a triple X and prefer dark colors, lol. I'd have the logo on the back and a smaller version on the front in the upper right. For the sticker, when the Z is painted, I wanted to just work up a very small, all white one to run along the rocker or something. Would I have to pay like a liscense fee or anything?

Awsome job man, very impressive.