CarolinaTZ

That's what I needed to know. Thanks a bunch, guys. I should be able to use these.

If one of you guys wants to buy me a set feel free I know they're available. I just need someone to measure the OD of a set of 280Z threaded coilover sleeves. I already have a set of sleeves and a lathe. If the OD of the 240 and 280 are the same, then I'll make make these work.

I know the strut tubes on the 280Z are slightly larger than say, the 240, (mine measured 2.1...") and the typical 2" coilover sleeve ID is too small to fit over it. Is the OD for the 280 coilover sleeve the same OD as the typical 2" ID sleeve? I'm assuming the 280 sleeves are thinner wall (having the same OD and a larger ID). Am I correct? I want to take a typical 2" coilover sleeve and machine it to fit my 280 tubes but wasn't sure if it would make the tbe walls too thin. Has anyone done this?

Thanks guys! I "could" grind the rubber away and use the stock washers but, I prefer to keep the original bushings/washers intact. Now the search begins for these washers.

Hey guys can you help me out. Just bought an LSD for my 72. It came with a mustache bar w/ urethane bushings. Are there supposed to be large washers where the mustache bar bolts to the chassis? It didn't come with any the way I received it. And the stock one has the rubber bushings molded into the large washers - top and bottom - frame side and nut side. Do the urethane bushings go right up against the bottom of the frame with no washers? And it seems like it needs them on the bottom too along with the small flat washer and nut. Thanks for the help.

Great work! I followed your thread on "vic" and really like your thoroughness. Excellent job on the rocker reinforcements. Look forward to seeing the progress.

I've held these in my hand...a 14" that is. Seems like a nice wheel...relatively lightweight and the finish was very nice. Hap at Acme is a local distributor and had some in a while back...before the 15" were available. I was holding out to get a set of these 15" but always wanted a set of BBS wheels...I couldn't stand the wait so I bought a set of vintage BBS's. The silver retro4 is painted - not raw aluminum like the originals - then the whole wheel is cleared.

Well, yes, it would be good to know. If no one knows that's fine too.

That's good to know, johnc. Any idea what Nissan it came in? Sorry for the poor phone pics.

I just picked up this CLSD 3.9 diff with bolt in stub axles and I plan to use it in my 72 turbo 240Z. It's a 2 pinion R180...I think...not very experienced with diffs but that's what my eye tells me. Will be in a street car w/ minimal autocrossing so, it should hold up. Would this be OEM from something else (and what) or is it a Nismo...how can I tell?

Awesome job and beautiful color! You should be proud of yourself. I am currently prepping and plan to do my first paint spray on my engine bay.

First let me say "thanks" for a no-nonsense board like this...there's lots of fluff on the internet and it's good to find a "most of poser talk weeded out" website. Anyway, based on what I'm reading here, I'm leaning toward vented. I did some weighing and there's not as much difference between the 2 rotors (stock vs vented) as I suspected...around 3-4 pounds. There was a 5 pound difference between loaded stock calipers and loaded '92 4Runner calipers. I was leaning toward the big-small-piston calipers but, it looks like there's more pad (with some grinding) choices with the fatter calipers. I searched and could not find a full explaination but, why will the 85-88 Maxima front rotors not work with my '72 hubs? I could only find a reference to using a ZX hub w/ the Maxima front rotors...is it possible to use these rotors with my '72 hubs? Seems like this would be an easier solution over the 300zx rotors that require spacers.

Good topic! I bought the same rig from HF that h4n...used. Good job, BTW. I've never sprayed automotive either. I was told to use base/clear urethane...I'll be sticking with the factory '72 white. How much overspray was there with the HVLP, h4n...? I would recommend not using rattle cans...just for durability. The rattle can paints are awesome these days. I used to do some high end bicycle restorations having the frames professionally painted. But, I painted a frame one time w/ rattle cans. It turned out incredible...a friend who restores cars thought I had it professionally sprayed. But, rattle can paints will take very little abuse...it scratches very easily. So, I would say go with an automotive paint. It's simply going ro hold up and be more durable.

I know, I know...VENTED!. But, not necessarily. I just need to know your actual results...good, bad, and regretful I'm beginning the process of the Toyota brake upgrade (I actually bought a set of the huge sw13 calipers...these things are heavy! But, I'm returning them). I understand the benefits of vented rotors but I'm not sure I want to go that route. Can anyone who has kept their non-vented rotors while doing the 4 pot upgrade, tell me if and how easily you reached the limits of the non-vented rotors. I spent extra money on forged wheels and don't want to turn around and add back unneccesary unsprung weight. It's also more expensive and a little more complicated to go with vented rotors so I don't want to use them if I don't need them. Has anyone auto-crossed or done track days with non-vented rotors without issues...at what point, if any, did you realize you should have gone with vented? Thanks in advance for sharing.

I'm beginning the process of the brake upgrade. I understand the benefits of vented rotors but I'm not sure I want to go that route. Can anyone who has kept their non-vented rotors while doing the 4 pot upgrade, tell me if and how easily you reached the limits of the non-vented rotors. I spent extra money on forged wheels and don't want to turn around and add back unneccesary weight to the suspension. It's more expensive and more complicated to go with vented rotors so I don't want to use them if I don't need them. Has anyone auto-crossed or done track days with non-vented rotors without issues...at what point, if any, did you realize you should have gone with vented? Thanks in advance for the advice.

Thanks. I'm aware of classictube and the other commercially available ones. I'm just not willing to pay over $400 for it...I'll make my own before I pay that. I was asking in case someone bought a set at the old price and never got around to using them and may have beem looking for a place to unload them.

Looking for a 240Z hard brake line kit. Thanks, Joe

Hey...welcome to the site! I'm new here too...I've got a 72 240Z. Great question...if you look around at threads discussing various suspension setups, you'll normally find pictures with details about the specific components used for that particular car. One thing that jumps out at me though is the fact that you are modifying a one-owner, lady-driven, 12,000 mile 1975 280Z. Is this car original and in good shape? If so, you may want to think about keeping it original. It may de-value the car if you start "upgrading" it. Sounds like you have a really nice survivor...you can modify them anytime but they're only original once. Not trying to tell you what to do with your own car and not discouraging any modifications - that's what this site is based on and modifications are great! Just think before you "mod"...that's all. Of course, some mods are reversible so, you could always put it back stock too. Good luck.

I love a heated debate and I appreciate all the information you've brought to my question about cam lobe repair which I may or may not need. I just wanted to jump in for a second and say "Thank you" to dapiper for the cam card specs for my cam. Racer Brown SS-56 SS-54 110 Intake .487 lift / 244 dur. Exhaust .478 lift / 236 dur. While I understand much of the information you guys have shared, it's mostly above my head but, I'm learning.

I appreciate you guys chiming in...I definitely learned some things. I'll be installing new stem seals soon and will look more closely at the condition of the cam. In the meantime dapiper (small world, David) has offered to send me the specs on this cam which will help me know what I have. texis30O, I saw your youtube videos...both of them...a year or 2 ago...before I even had this car. Very cool videos...looks like a very nice - and fast - Z you have there! Do you know what cam you have? Joe

You are correct, logan1. I plan to run 225 in the rear and 205 in front. These wheels were not made for a Z and you rarely see RS's on a Z so, I didn't have much information to go on...just a lot of measuring and searching the internet as various sizes and offsets showed up for sale. I'm really glad I got the 8.5 and it is at the limit! Thanks S130Z! I'm up in Greenville. They came from VR Wheels...a used JDM wheel importer. Supposedly, these came from a source in Japan and were for their domestic market. I'll keep that in mind but I plan to hold onto these =)

Trial fitting my BBS RS wheels...looks like they're gonna work.

Thanks for the help, guys. How well did the cam perform? This cam is in my motor that Tom Wyatt built so, I assume it's a good cam for a turbo motor. Do turbos like a lot of overlap or not? The steep profile/high lift may explain some wear on some of the lobes. Can cams be repaired? If so, who do you guys recommend? I haven't taken any measurements yet...this is based on visual.

Hi, I checked around so not to ask a redundant question but couldn't find anything. I have Racer Brown cam with: 110 SS56 - SS54 485-2 The numbers seem to be a combination of 2 different grinds...SS56 and SS54. Has anyone seen a number like this or know what the specs are? The date appears to be 1985. Thanks, Joe