Len

Thanks I'll do that Len

you are right looks aren't a concern. Its under the car. I was even told to use cold tar out of a caulking gun. Sounds ok I guess it will stay flexable so it won't crack or seperate. What do you mean by body sealant? Bondo?

I've been repairing some rust areas using metal pieces riveted over the rust. I first painted rust with POR. I was wondering what have you guys used to seal between the metal riveted sheet metal and the hole to prevent water entering in the future?

Larry Once again **** Happens! I'm really sorry. Nothing can be said. I'll pray for you.After hundreds of corraspondence (both reading and writing). I felt close to you guy. We saw alot of things the same! Dam! this is beginning to sound like an obituary! Get into their metalshop and make some stuff. See if you can get transfered to Vegas pen where you can restore the imperial palace owners antique cars. They will never win unless you let them win!

Ross Your father's fit of that Lt-1 is awhsome! Someday I'll do more than look at my 96 Lt-1/T56. Right now I've got a commitment with my son and our 70 Firebird. Is that a griffin rad.? Did you have any issues with the reverse cooling?Didn't look like your father installed either (the air cond. or Powersteering ).....Really as I mentioned before a turbo L-28 will be a bit heavier (than stock L-28)and a Lt-1 will bit lighter(than stock 350 SBC). I figure they will both just about equal each other out and be real close to each other weight wise.

That's a very good price. Weight difference of a standard 350 SBC if I remember was about 150 lbs. heavier than L-28. Now the Lt-1 has aluminium heads which should lighten things up while the added weight of turbo will increase weight of L-28. Len

aarang what I came up with from my experience I explained in my april 4th,2002 post "How to calculate flow rate of injectors" Len

Thanks Nathan I ended up buying a $500.00 1977 Fiat Spider instead So once again I'm broke again!

Hi guys I remember some of you were talking and using the computer and wiring from the 87 300zx (not sure if you used turbo or not). I just saw a 1989 300zx parts car for sale in the paper (non-turbo) was wondering if the computer/mass air sensor/wiring would help in adjustability of our neverending quest for larger injectors adjustability along with nixing the AFM on the 280ZXTurbo engine. Thanks for any input. Len

Phil I'm glad you posted. I happily stand corrected. Looks like you used narrower tires instead of going 225's or even 235's for that matter. Did you drive with those 17x8 installed on front. Did you have any problems of them rubbing on hard cornering? Len

Thanks for the input Mike. Sounds like 17x7 with 4" backspacing is the safest wheel size. Without having them all available to try. After talking to other people I think a person would really be pushing it getting 17x8. I can't think of anyone who has with stock suspension no flairs. That's good enough for me.

Jason Talk about Deja Vooo! I read your post right after I just posted. I like same rims and wondering same thing; except with regards to 280zxt! Inquiring minds would like to know.

Tim You mentioned you needed to change the offset from 3.5 to 4" backspace. I was just wondering why when they mentioned those spitfires would fit 240/280z cars as they are(with the 3.5" offset)? I've got a 280ZXT and really was interested in a 17" wheel. I was looking at the 17x8 Billet Rhino. It looks like it has the same 4-4.25/4.5" bolt pattern. Except it has a 5" offset> I would like to call tomarrow and see it they could do the same 4" offset as you were able to do. But would a 8" rim be just to wide? I remember Dave Gremans new wheels are 17"-7.5" 40mm. offset but he is using the wheel adapters. What do you think? Can it be done with 8" (Cause really guys size does matter ! ). Of am I gonna flub my dub?

When I see a homeless guy/gal on the street. I pass them by go the store or stop & go and buy a loaf of bread and package of lunch meat. Then drive back and give it to him/her. I feel that I did something and didn't contribute to their drug habit. I guess if everybody did that we would have alot of FAT panhandler's on the streets! So I agree with Len168 about giving food. You know "Len" you got a good name!

This won't help you but I just had to add. Today I installed sparkplugs in a 1998 Chevy Cavalier (my daughters)and called auto parts store to get plug gap for the car. He said .060" blew me away! He said the newer cars have hotter spark to allow for wider gap. I hung up and 30 min. later had to call again to talk to another guy. The other guy looked it up & said the same .060" . I installed them along with plugwires. Car runs like a top!

Check out either Jegs or summit. They have new oilcoolers for Mustang for about $70 to $100. The Mustang oil filter is same thread size as 280ZXT except filter is longer. So adapter plate should fit Z !

Chris Just noticed your last reply when I posted my previous reply.AND "I hear and agree with your last statement" In fact I'm living it as we speak!

I just know cash flow wise when they release the 2 version (possibly in Feb.) my wallet hopefully will recover from Christmas! Also the 2 version from the info I read can use either sensor. From reading the "AAC valve question"thread I got the idea it was hard to find and buy the NTK sensor. Where Bosch wasen't. How are you reading the prices on the Tecedge website? What is the interchange rate between Azzie dollars and American?

What did it it cost you Z-gad to have that done? Did they fit in the original rocker arms? I figure they drilled pivots for oil port?

I followed Dawes directions if you don't get a good reading. Buy a 02 sensor for a Dodge Shadow at auto parts store. Which I did. It worked alot better. I've been reading the posts on wideband in AAC Valve question and went on one of the sites mentioned and saw the wideband for around $135 (not including sensor which I expect is expensive). Read that thread seds some light on subject. Eventually I would like to get a wideband newer type "2" when they come out. That would use bosch sensor. But in the meantime the 4 wire sensor works alot better that the old singlewire. Read what Dawes said in his instructions. But first before spending buck. I just feel you need to be grounded real good directly on negative post (have good connection on 02 also) for any success. Then if that doesn't improve, and you don't want to wait for the new wideband then try the 4 wire 02. I had good luck with it. Also looked on SDS website and when I get money ahead (after Christmas . I want to buy that EIC two injector setup. Need to ask if my 370's would work to replace the 480's they offer. Could maybe save a little money. Hey I wish we talked earlier before you bought. Then we could of done a group buy at a reduced price! Good Luck Chris

Patience IS a Virtue! Really important in buying cars! Things will happen that are meant to happen. You may not understand it now but maybe you lose this deal so you will have money to buy a totally refurbished V-8 Z (no rust) for a song in the future(although I'm can't sing ).

Chris After reading about that SDS sys That way a person could have best of both worlds! There was another guy on Hybrid that was going to run secondary injectors on each intake port beside original injector. Haven't heard the final outcome on that project! Those extra injectors would work at boost and looks adjustable also. Might contact SDS and see if they would sell the mounts for the 2 injectors with controller and harness so I could possibly save some money by using a couple of my 370's I have a Dawes A/F also. It was doing the same thing (not grounding or working very well)until I replaced my 02 sensor with a 4 wire sensor. Proper grounding is important with those gauges, with the 4 wire you are also using ground from the 02 intself. It works alot better (not as good at the the expensive wideband but at least gives alot better reading than before). I used the one for a Dodge Shadow about $70 bucks.

Hey thanks for babbling your giving out much needed information! Hmmmm. So you went with a larger turbo than stock ran it 10 psi. Which sounds like the same psi you ran your stock turbo so that in its self was an improvement! Then you ran your new t3/t4 up to 14 psi. before surging. But you think the surging was caused from bad plugs? You then installed new plugs and it ran great to 15 psi with stock injectors. Do you have a A/F gauge if so what did it show? Also this may be stupid but what is a "FSM verified this" and also you bought a "SDS EIC" is that what you call a SDS fuel control systum? Hey if you install that; you could just go with larger injectors and dial them in to work for the duty cycle you need! So you figure you really didn't need to get the fuel fuel pump to max out your injectors after all? Or are your saying you needed that xtra 15 psi (from 65psi stock fuel pump to 80psi. with the new fuel pump). Oh yea; did you explain to the officer why you were speeding was that you were doing scientific research for members of HybridZ ! Hey I just know you'd get off that way (or get put in jail!). Now I babbling!

Basically remember to go the correct tork on the pressure plate. Check your pilot bearing if OK go for it. You also need the correct clutch alignment tool to line up clutch before you tork the press. plate. Wish you were closer, or I was still working in East OK. I be glad to help you some evening! Just to see your pretty Z in person ! Len

Chris Question; using your fuel pressure gauge. What in your estimate did you notice your injectors "maxing out" (at that 80psi you mentioned?). Or no longer anymore improvement in fuel output? Also did you have a noticable improvement to the 65 psi. with your stock fuel pump? Thanks Len