HakosukaJD

14 deg BTDC. As for the other stuff. Looking at the plugs made it readily apparent it was #4 that was running the richest....the others weren't too bad. I readjusted all the linkages (carb 1 linkage was indeed off). Reset the pilot screws to 1.5 turns and was able to hit 900RPM no problem with the throttle screws. Unfortunately, my center carb is not balanced across itself. #3cyl is pulling around 2 kg/min while #4cyl is pulling almost 4. I backed the throttle screw all the way out and pulled off the center carb and looking through it, could see light coming around the butterfly valve on 4 and a touch on 3. I'm assuming I should see either no light, or the same through both (otherwise would lead to imbalanced air regulation). I'm unable to accurately determine whether the valve itself is bent, or just the valve arm.

Okay...Chokes back in. Carbs synched (the butterfly valve post on my center carb was slightly torqued, but I seem to have torqued it back). Waiting on the O2 from the U.S.... Car doesn't fall flat when I stomp the gas anymore.....but it is difficult to get the idle right. I had 1.5 turns on the pilot screws, but even when I back the linkages all the way off, I'm getting about 1200 RPM. I went to about 1.25 turns on all pilot screws and between 1/8 and a 1/4 turn between the three linkages to bring it down to just over 1000. Should I back down on all pilot screws to 1 turn to get the RPMs down a little more?

The latter list was the carb setup right after I bought it. N42 head and block. Unknown internals. Cam is stamped with HKS and L20...but no idea if it actually an L20 cam. No numbers on the back end to indicate lift/duration.... I moved down to 165's when I was blowing black smoke at high RPM's. The first list is my setup as of now. The original setup is starting to make me wonder if the engine is more wound up then I originally believed..... Thanks for the advise. What kind of power are you making?

The outers are 41mm. I know there are different size outers....but do they have different size inners as well? A "friend" actually took the outers out because the car seemed to be running so rich. I'll put them back in and see if I get a noticeable difference. I guess I let him play with too many things at once....makes it hard too really determine the problem.

Sorry....had to go home to check...numbers weren't in my head for that one.... Pilots are 60's. I'll try to get to the dyno next week. I can get it done at SuperAutobacs for about 5k Yen....(40 bucks). I'm just trying not to use a whole tank of gas on the way . There's no smell of fuel around the carburetors in general...unless you stick your nose up to a horn..then its pretty strong. Normal? I thought syncing the carbs was alternating between adjusting pilot screw and throttle stop screw until I'm getting the same draw across the horns. Is this wrong? Is there something else? Or course, that does lead to a question, what is your starting point for your pilot screw? Seat it and back off how many turns? My manual doesn't really tell me....that I could see.....

I know...old post, but I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. L28 w/ triple sidedraft PHH44 Mikunis main air 225 main fuel 165 Pump 45 Pilots 60 The floats are set to 12.5mm Carbs all have the same pull. Unfortunately, I don't know what cam I have or what pistons are in it (I trying to obtain a borescope to at least determine flattops or not....) I am getting between 4 and 6 mpg. This is based on known driving distances (basically work and back). On a single trip to work (10km), I can WATCH the gauge go down. The car doesn't seem to care how hard I'm getting on it....always gets sh*tty mileage. So what gives? I haven't found any fuel leaks (and no smell of fuel) while its running (or not running for that matter). I'm still having an issue with carb spitting and engine stumble if I step too hard on the pedal. Under normal acceleration I would get it around 3500RPM. I went from 50 to 45's on the pumps, which shifted the stumble up to around 4500 RPM and its a little better on accel. I had 175's on the mains and went to 165's. I think I'm still running pig rich (as evidence by the black stain on the rear garage wall despite never running the car in the garage except to pull in and out). The fuel pump is an old aftermarket model, but appears to be built for the Z's....haven't been able to test psi on it..... No matter what the Cam or pistons, I would think I could generalize it to at least get 10mpg....and figure it out from there, right? I have both Rebuild and Modify your Nissan OHC engine books....as well as the Mikuni manual. I understand the basic workings of the carbs and how to adjust them. I'll fine tune later....is there a baseline jetting to start from?

The stock intercooler is a pretty good piece. It is certainly good for 500 crank, approaching 600 is a bit iffy (although I'm sure someone out there has done it). Something to keep in mind though...when a friend cracked his stocker when out on a camping trip (yes, I'm serious..lol), the HKS I/C rated for 700+ HP was only about $150 US more than a stock replacement..... How good the A/C is in that half cut is questionable. 1) R-12 system, which is reasonably expensive to refill. (Although there are a number of people who have successfully retrofitted the system for R-134a) 2) The compressors and expansion tanks both are NOTORIOUS for failing on the R32. To replace both with the Nissan factory replacements is around $700 (then see problem 1). Stockers are good under 1.2 bar. Radiator should be okay. RB's have a tendency to run hot. A good oil cooler is a great idea. A cooler/remote filter kit that fits on the 1991 TT 300ZX should work on an R32.

I actually tried this a few years ago but I didn't like it. I mostly did turbine kits as the SupraStore was asking more than twice what the kits LIST for in Japan. I did "JDM" lights/bumbers/grills, rims, and I also sold a factory rebuilt motor and two wreck pulls and (one of my best finds) a set of ALCON 6 pots with steel lines and 355mm rotors for $1200. The real problem is the issue of trust. I only sent things that were in good condition. I would only charge on average cost and shipping plus a 10-15% overhead. Still people would complain or try to tell me I cheated them. I ALWAYS offered to give them their money back if they shipped the items back, and they would never do it. I assume they were just looking for a cheap way out. The money I made went into my R32, but mostly I was just trying to help people out. I got tired of the whining after the effort I put forth. That doesn't mean I don't do it at all....small items I can have delivered straight to my home and turn around and ship, I don't mind so much. I don't think I want to do motors anymore.

8-10k? For a stock RB, with a tuned ECU and Tranny? Good god, who are you buying from? I can buy all that stuff factory rebuilt for less than 5k! Shipping is only around $500 to the U.S. for a block! Are they really charging that much overhead in the U.S.? I know of at least 2 used RB's going for less than 2k on base....and an OS Cross mission for about the same!

To be safe in terms of duty cycle, you shouldn't push it any more than about 1cc/flywheel HP (not to the ground). IE, the stockers are 444's and are good for around 350-380 wheel. I have 534's on mine and its making around 420 wheel on '91 pump (but I could probably go a bit higher). I thought RX-7's had two different sizes of injectors.....one large, one small.... There are many sources of injectors for RB's....I prefer Sard. They make them in increments of around 120cc..... top feed stock replacements up to 1000cc.....

LOL...510's only sell for around 700,000 Yen even in great shape in Japan! Brian, I can't believe your selling....but good to know you'll just pick up another one! I have a pretty good line on Hakosuka's now since I've been running all over Japan before I bought. If you need anything let me know (even if its a place to stay while you confirm on the car you would like to buy). The door is open. It certainly wouldn't be the first time we let some stateside car friends stay over... I hope you're going to stay active on the site even if you do sell.....I may still have some questions regarding LSD's and such Good luck!

LOL. I'm eternally hopeful that it isn't a standard L20 grind...maybe a regrind on an L20. Can you use an L20 grind on an L28? How does it run?

LOL.... At least you have markings. I was trying to figure out what was in mine the other day and nothing is marked on the end. The only thing stamped on mine (and at about the midpoint) was "HKS" and "L20". Funny considering it's an N42 block and head.....hmmm. *HIJACK WARNING* What do you have valve lash set at? "How to Rebuild..." says (I believe) .20mm In .24mm ex cold.....but I've been told by local builders .25 across the board on an aftermarket cam.....*HIJACK WARNING* -Sorry 'bout that

I also have a number of part guides in Japan to include "HyperRev" and "Street Perfect Tuning". If you have questions about aftermarket part costs in Japan, its easy for me to check. I also make periodic trips to Upgarage...if I find something interesting (like clutches for example) I'll take pics with the phone and post. They typically have a number of RB parts.

NA RB25/6 are all the rage going into Hakosuka's right now (I think it's the cross flow semi S20 look they're going for). If I pulled off such a swap, I could turn around and sell my car for around a 15k dollar profit....

C'mon now! I was only kidding! I'm sticking with my L28 and triple Mic's:)

By this, I would say that the turbines get a little inefficient above around 360 RWHP on an L28. If you double the manifold pressure, you should see more than a 40HP gain if they were still running reasonably efficiently (but that's my belief anyway...) I looked for that Turbo map.....I thought I knew which book it was in, but I was wrong. I'll keep looking to see what I can find...... As for the stocks, I've been told by a number of people that the ceramic wheels in the R32 are good for around 1.0 bar. Around 1.2-1.3 you stand a good chance of spitting a wheel out your exhaust...... Single vs Twin....I don't know. I see just as many cars set up with twin 3037s as I see with a T88.....

I might have the compressor maps in an issue of "GTR magazine" at home. I'm in Tokyo right now and will be for a couple days....I'll post when I get home.

R32 GTR is a 5-speed from the factory....however, I know Hollinger and OS GIken both make a 6-speed for the 32. I also know that the R34 transmission externally isn't much different than the R32. The shaft to the front diff is a tad bit longer on the R34 6-speed and the clutch assembly is a push vice pull....I believe. Sean at RBMotoring has done this relatively easy conversion on an R32....he can give you the goods on how to do it.....

Low load driving and idle aren't all that different in terms of heat into the turbines. Additionally, a quick look at a boost guage will tell you that at low load conditions, your turbines aren't compressing much air as the induction system is under vacuum. This is a big chunk of the heat. If you have an oil temp guage on your t/c'd car, you'll note that the oil temps increase as you idle as compared to low load driving. Now of course, part of this increase is caused by the decrease in oil flow (longer exposure to heat means more heat absorbed). This higher oil temperature means a lower temperature differential, which in turn means a slower rate of heat transfer (more heat held in the turbines). More heat held in the turbines means a higher probability of oil breakdown/coking. The biggest aspect of this is increased oil/coolant flow and air flow across your coolers.

Sorry....Idling or the use of turbo timers to cool an engine/turbines is a pet peeve of mine. The proper way to cool a t/c engine is to stay off it two or three minutes prior to shutting down. An idling vehicle has much lower oil/coolant flow, no air flow to assist in removing heat from the radiator/oil cooler, and higher under hood temperatures. People who race idle because they have nowhere to go. They also accept lower reliability as a result of the "harsh" treatment of a "race" engine.

I probably don't need the holding power of a twin, but I have an OS Giken twin in my R32 and I love it. Small engagement zone, crisp response. Although, if one of the clutchmasters units will work (STAGE III is most likely enough), I don't see the advantage in paying 150% more. By the look of the vehicle choices in the CM line-up, appears they are straight replacements for the stock units..... Now if I can just figure out which vehicle my drivetrain is set up to look like Or are all L28's pretty much the same? Thanks for the quick replies... JD

Looking for a heavy duty single or twin plate clutch that will install with minimum hassle on an L28. Any recommendations?