HakosukaJD

I have the standard 2540's on my RB. How are the "R"s? Everybody poo-poo's the standards in the face of the 2530's as they say the 40's are mismatched. I'm only running about 400 wheel, but my torque curve on stock cams impressed the dyno tech..... On the blankets, I might be a bit worried on how much heat you're trapping in the turbines just prior to turning the car off......

I already determined that I just wish I knew what else is done.....

I tried to get some clean pictures but its difficult as the coolant hose that runs to the heater core is in the way....camera was too close to focus. But this is generally what they look like... So do you think its even possible to get it running decent on an L20 cam with Mik44's?

I guarantee you if I had one of those' date=' you would have seen it by now Z-Gad and N-Zeder win.....although I'm SURE Soileau is right too (I forgot about his suggestion when I was looking...I'll look again:) ) N42 is clearly visible on the left side ~#2 near the oil pan. Obviously molded with the block rather than stamped as the engine ID plate was. http://photobucket.com/albums/c248/hakosuka32/?action=view&currnet=block.gif Funny thing about that ID plate....I WAS registered with a 300 tag! So now the issue is... what the hell cam is it and why can't we get it running right? lol

I will let you know as soon as I get home...had duty last night so unable to check. I'll post pictures of what I find as well....

That's almost a 30% increase in displacement....is that possible?

So I recently bought a Hakosuka. The shop advertised the car as an L28 with Mikuni (Solex) 44's. So I get the car home and take the silencer out of the tailpipe that was no doubt stuffing the engine. Since I'm new to carb'd cars, a friend of mine assists in balancing them (and we find one of the butterfly posts to be a bit tweaked...fixed now). No matter what he did, he couldn't get the engine to run smooth through the mid-rpms (carb spits, hesitation etc). Power/torque under 2k is pretty good and the car takes off above 4k RPMS. So he assumes the jetting may be a bit off. We pull the head cover to see what kind of CAM its running to possibly get a baseline to start from. The cam has no markings on the end (where, I'm told an aftermarket cam is usually marked), but has L20 stamped in the middle of the cam. Engine looks like it has recently been rebuilt. Looked strange to us...L20 cam in an L28. We look at the block plate, and it also says L20. The head is an N42 (L28, I believe) head. I call the shop. The shop ASSURES me the engine is indeed an L28 and that it is likely the previous owner shaved the block plate and restamped it to pay the lesser road tax (Japan road taxes based partly on displacement). Apart from taking the head off and measuring the cylinders, are there any other definative ways to identify this block as either an L20 or an L28? Block serial code? Appendages? I know somebody here has all these differences memorized!

Sounds about right...esp considering the yen rate right now.... I've heard the FCon is actually a better system....but its use requires a knowledgeable technician who is subscribed to HKS and continues to receive the update discs that come out monthly (or bi-monthly, or whatever it is). Maybe somebody else knows people using the FCon in the U.S, but I haven't heard of it....

The standard oil pump on both the R32 and R33 have/had flow issues. For any build over 450HP, changing the oil pump is standard. As for size difference between the oil pump drives...being specific, sure. Haven't seen any crankwalk issues with the R32....have quite a few friends running 600+ WHP on the standard 32 crank. I'm only running ~420 WHP, and haven't had any problems in 15,000 street miles and almost 23 hours on the track.

The two engines are practically the same with the exception of the clutch layout (push vs pull) and oil pump (and you want to replace that anyway with at least an N1 unit). In fact, all three late model RB26's are pretty much the same with the exception of the N1's..... Why the desire for an R33 vs 2? Something I'm missing? As a reference, Nissan in Japan sells RB26 engines factory rebuilt for $4500 incl turbines, new tranny for $710. That was when I checked and the Yen rate was 107....its around 120 now....

I think they wanted about $300 for tuning my RB including 2 (or was it 3?) hours on the dyno. But with the PowerFC, upgrades are easily dealth with through the commander...so once its tuned, you don't have to go back if you want to change cams, injectors, maf, etc. Just make sure you get the FC that matches your engine....ie the RB26DETT FC is different for the R32/R33 than the R34....

Personally, if you're looking at going this way with an RB, you're better off with Apexi's PowerFC w/ Commander. If you're not going BIG numbers (600PS Plus) stick with the Non D-Jetro version. With the FC, you get it tuned once, then you can make a number of adjustments yourself if you decide to upgrade later through the commander (ie longer duration cam, Z mafs etc...) Not to mention...since you're in LA, its EASY to walk down to XS Engineering and have them tune the FC. I don't know of anybody with the experience to do the FCON's in the US, let alone California.

I'd cut holes in my wife before I cut any holes in my car J/K of course.... Fiberglass add on sounds like a good idea....might be a nice alternative to a 1D sounding box.... Thanks for the suggestion.

I don't need them....I prefer the sound of the engine. My wife, however, refused to ride in the car for more than an hour without some music. I have NO desire to cut into my kick panels (Hakosuka's have a spot for a single speaker in the dash, right above the AM-only radio). I figure my best bet is a loaded hatchback box or something. Any suggestions for something that at least sounds decent? Thanks....

I found this site tonight.... http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/carbid.html ...might help. I've been looking for the "triples take me to school" thread I've read so much about in my searches....but no luck finding as of yet. Edit...not quite sure why it didn't come up in the other searches...but http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=79723&highlight=triple+school I had the car running great yesterday...but now the idle's down and its starting to spit again......

A stock steering wheel? Hakosuka? Ken-Mary? R32, R33, R34? GTR? GTS? If I see one I'll let you know....for those who don't know, I'm stationed in Japan and sometimes come into parts that are either given to me, or left laying around in junk yards. If I see things of interest, I'll let you all know. Speaking of which...there's an R32 that's being parted out as we speak. The engine has been spoken for....and possibly the rear end.....

I've got similar Carbs on my L28. It is my first time with them, and I brought the car home for the first time last night. Anything you learn, I'd be happy to hear about. They look almost identical to yours in layout, although the casing is slightly different. Mine are also 44's but are a bit older....they still have Solex AND Mikuni stamped on them. The engine runs great under throttle....but going from part throttle to full quickly results in a bit of hesitation before it comes up. My dad's '67 Stingray did the same thing...so I'm assuming its normal for Carb'd cars?

Me likey too, although it appears the pics in my hard copy version came out a tad bit better....I like having an electronic version!

Popular myth...but not really. Especially when compared to Mitsu's GTO (3000GT). My 32 weighs in at less than 3200 lbs. The R34 Mspecs are the heaviest at near 3500 lbs, but its about 100 lbs heavier than the other trims. Not much different from an SS or WS6.... Of course when you are comparing them to S30's and such......

I'm only making a bit over 500 crank, but it's not a high cost build either. 2.7L bore, N1 pistons, Tomei 1.8mm metal head, twin 2540's, trust MBC, N1 oil/water pumps, Sard 534cc injectors, HKS front pipes/Superdrager, OS Giken Twin plate, N1 276l/h fuel pump. Stock Cam's, Stock IC, Stock Crank, rods. Surprisingly unlaggy, especially considering the infamous 2540 mismatch. Parts cost me around 5k. Can the S30 frame handle 700-800 HP / 550 ft-lbs? If you're going about 700, you should probably look for an N1 head. The standard head has an oil restriction that comes into play at high RPM's.....Sean at RBMotoring has lost a couple engines do to this phenomenon. The N1 block and head seems to be much more capable of these power levels. The N1 pump is MUCH better than the stock unit.

Brian...thought it was you:) I go by GTR2.7L on most of the other sites....Thought Hakosuka would be more appropriate. Thanks for the correction on the Hakosuka vs Z brakes. Mike, a Vspec/II cut would have calipers that say "Brembo" on them. If they say Nissan, its a STD cut. These are the same calipers as on the Z32's.... Stony....Despite the calipers being the same (and taking the same pads fore and rear), the front Z32 rotors won't work on a STD R32. As I recall, the bolt radius is slightly off which would preclude the vice versa. Rear Z32's work just fine for a GTR rear.... Its a shame really....it cost me 38 bucks a Brembo rotor for the rears on my 32 in the states....but I would have had to order the same rotors from Japan for the front at a SUBSTANTIALLY higher price and wait two week for them to show up. Hawk Plus pads are the same for both cars, front and rear though.

Vspec or STD R32? The STD have the same calipers as the Z32 although the mounting for the rotors is a bit different. I believe the 240Z has the same front brake setup as the '71 "Hakosuka" Skyline. I just recently purchased one of these cars and it has a GTR front brake conversion (I also have an R32 so I recognized the calipers immediately). As soon as I receive it from the dealer, I'll take some pictures on the conversion and post them for you. Unfortunately, the rears are still drum....not sure if I want to mess with that or not.....

Ford Heavy Duty was developed to counter a design problem with (I believe) the F250 Series pickup trucks. It is great stuff for track days if you are willing to change it out before-hand (which you really should do anyway). I had originally used the Castrol LMA fluid. Unfortunately, the stock brakes on my 400+ WHP R32 weren't up to Laguna Seca. I could run two hard laps before taking a cooling lap. The Ford HD fluid allowed me to run a full 25 minute session without having to take breather laps. I highly recommend it... it works great for both the track AND the wallet