HakosukaJD

I saw a bore/stroke kit by ATTKD to make that block a 3.3L mated to a 26 head. That would be brutal....

Uhhh...crap. Didn't even think about this. I just installed a SPEC Stage 2+ in my car. Can't tell you much about it as I've only driven about 50 miles on it. What I can tell you is that the pilot bearing was extremely tight and the throwout bearing looked quite different than the one on the transmission.

Rather than eat bandwidth I'll just post the URL's here. That way you can download high res pics and actually use them http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h191/hakosukajd/R34dim.jpg http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h191/hakosukajd/R32dim.jpg

It's about time I contributed something useful.... I'll upload the R32 and R34 when I get home from work tonight. Is the one posted big enough?

Does this do it for you? I have the 32 and 34 dimensions as well if you need them....

I have a magazine with practically every dimension there is....if I can find the damn thing....

Tad bit grainy at the expense of size...but I can upload a clean image to photobucket if you like....

The gasket is fine....its the ports on the manifold that are too small.

That was indeed what I was describing. So port matching myself?... Is that simply taking the manifold off, putting the gasket in position, marking the extra material and going crazy with el dremel?

Kameari sells the ball and socket linkages for 3000yen a piece (or about 25 bucks)....

So I replaced my clutch with a SPEC model (came with a throwout bearing that was quite different by the way) and since I had to remove the header while doing so, decided to replace the intake/exhaust gasket. I had a stock replacement gasket. When I took it apart, I find that the new gasket has intake ports about 5mm smaller in diameter than the old one (which matches the N42 cylinder head). The new, smaller diameter gasket does match the manifold ports....so what's the deal? Is it common to be a port mismatch between the manifold (smaller) and the cylinder head (larger). Where can I get a manifold with larger ports? Would it help? I would think you would get stall where the air dumps into the larger cylinder head port...any suggestions?

I'm not strong with electricity...but here is how I see it. The car is fine at speed, correct? (I think I saw that) Its hot mainly while idling and fine at speed (when the engine is under far more load)....so the coolant system itself appears to be intact. How long have you had those fans? How much current do they draw? How much is the alt supposed to push? You say it just died...is it possible it was low balling your current and dropping their air draw? Did you have the fans before the fire? Where was the fire? In relation to the fire, is it possible the fan motors may have partially delaminated causing an intermittent internal short which both cause an excess drain on the alternator and a lower fan output?

So anybody know where I can buy the pilot bush puller? It took me an hour to get the damn thing out today. I tried pulling with half of a gear puller. Then tried the "fill it with grease and shove a spline in there" trick. Finally, I just pulled out a damn chisel and took the thing apart. Are they always this much a pain in the ***?! I'm thinking the one in there was the original because I literally had about 30 degrees of play with the alignment tool! EDIT: and actually, I need it for an L6 rather than an RB.

The Japanese can be weird about clutches. I had an OS Giken twin put on my R32, and it was, for the most part, stock. I dynoed the car at 296PS wheel when I first got it, which isn't much above what I've seen stock cars get.

I did a search and found some info and a number for a Maxima flywheel...but.... I have an N42 L28 block. I don't know if I have a 225mm or 240mm setup. In Japan, everything is 225mm, so that's what I bought as replacement. Since I understand the 225mm and 240's are interchangeable on all L-series blocks, as long as the starter can be adjusted, I just need to make sure the two match right? What is the Nissan Part Number for a 225mm flywheel that I can use? The local parts shop won't sell it to me without a part number. They don't speak English very well, my Japanese sucks, and my wife is at her 'rents for the weekend. They didn't want to sell me the wrong part. They showed me a list of about 5 numbers to include flywheels for the S30 and S130. Any suggestions?

Above 500 HP there is a large jump in financial requirements. The transmission is going to need work, half-shafts, chassis strengthening, and the parts needed to make the power jump up in price about there as well.....

If you're not set on a Z....I know a guy trying to sell an RB26 '71 Skyline. He wants in the twenties (negotiable).

At 500HP, you'll be running 1.2-1.4Bar...or (In the case of an R32) almost twice the stock boost. For $120 US, why take the chance?

I have the N1's in my 2.7L RB. I'm making 500HP and have seen quite a few track miles at Laguna Seca. They are the preferred pistons at that power for a friend who has been professionally building RB engines for 17 years. If you looking to go around 500PS, the N1's will work well for you.

I'm almost positive the internals are the same on the Z32TT tranny as the R32 GTR tranny. Third gear is the main weak point and its good to almost 500 at the wheels....

On new ones, don't know. On rebuilds, here is what I was told. First start, mineral oil, 2500-3500 RPM for approximately 15 minutes. After that drive it normally, but stay below .5 bar for the first 500km, below 1.0 for the next 500km. Change to synthetic and rag away. This is from a mechanic who worked for NISMO for a number of years before opening his own shop. He now is a subcontractor for Mine's on their builds. He assisted me on a boreup and rebuild on my RB.

The last time I checked it was 740000 Yen, including turbines. Factory rebuilds are 480,000 Yen.

I know its not the topic...but is that the stock brake booster? If not, what is it from?

So would you recommend synching to the high, or low barrel? Low barrel would give me a lean condition in the high. High barrel would give me a rich in the low..... Or does it really not matter when the butterfly valve is open, say, at 3/4 throttle? IE the flow is so much higher than the difference between the two.... I went ahead and synched low to help out with the mileage for now. By the way...this forum and you in particular, RULE!