RTz

How is this different than the side loads from cornering?

Specifically, an '85 Vette block verses an LS1

I didn't include this in one of the other, closely related, threads becuase I felt this was enough of a tangent... don’t want to steal any thunder. The details are intentionally non-existant. The blue circles are the pivots. Pivot locations are in roughly stock locations, but likely raised to keep the RC’s in check. The strut assembly is, at this point, unmodified. The “bracktery” is meaningless. I only included it becuase I thought it made it a little easier to visualize. The goals: Less stiction... Elimination of all bushings. Replaced with ball joint’s, bearings, etc. Lighter weight... This will be tough, I think. I’m not hell bent on it, but weight is definitely a concern. Fully alignable... ...and preferably conveniently alignable. Some sacrifices in convenience may have to be made. As little structural modification to the car as practical. Thoughts on load paths, stress’s, pro’s, con’s, and any likes or dislikes are welcome. From above...

Brian Bills (BrianV8Z), Paul Ruschman (BRAAP), and myself were hanging out in the shop today. I talked them both into participating in a ‘myth busting’ session. We weighed one each of said motors... well the short blocks anyway. Both engines comparably outfitted. Pictures tell a thousand words, see below.... . . The verdict? The LS1 weighed a measly 4 lbs less! Granted, there are many other considerations... heads, alternators, flywheel/clutch package, exhuast manifolds, intake manifolds, etc, etc. But, in the end, the single largest component, and arguably the largest potential contributor, shows no significant weight savings. Obviously, this is not a scientific, lab grade test procedure we've concocted. The main goal was was to see if they were similar in weight... the answer appears to be yes. P.S. We did weigh a pair of intake manifolds... the LS1 and the Offy pictured below. The Offy was 3lbs heavier... add another 8lbs for a carb.

Bubble, To clarify, you are using a Lonewolf intake? I'm not having a go at you, I'm just curious why your signature say's 13.9 @102.7... is this a different car than the one you're describing?

Welcome to the thread, As I understand it, the Denso 580 coils have a built in safety feature... at around 8ms they dump their charge to protect themselves from overheating. Obviously, this means they will be firing when they are not supposed to. It sounds like you getting dangerously close to crossing the line. They should be fully saturated by around 5.8ms. If you're getting 90% saturation at 4ms, why do you run 8ms?

He is kinda cute

Mototron... http://www.mototron.com/prod_intelcoil.htm

Most definitely. Just keep in mind that, once you get ino the high end systems, its not always clear which is best. Frequently, there is no right or wrong answer. They will ALL run you car well. It boils down to the 'extras' after that. You could say that about 3 more times!!! Too many people miss that 'little' piece of the puzzle. There are also some aftermarket coils that may be better than the LSx stuff with nearly the same configuration. Check out Mototron. I'm not certain I like thier stuff, but the coil 'packaging' is used by others. Pantara EFI has coils custom built to his specs in that same housing. I'm going to take a hard look at his coils on the next project. P.S. Looking over the Motec literature, It appears the M600 will drive LSx coil's directly. Should contact a dealer to be certain.

I'll look into the link tomorrow, as its getting late here.

Low blow... you edited in the middle of my response

There are always options. If you've purchased a system, then I suspect you did so with deliberation. If not, tell me what you're looking for. Wolf3D will drive them directly. I would be VERY suprised if Motec will not. Not necessary with Wolf. Again, I'd be surprised if necessary with Motec. If you find it more convenient, you can always email me direct... ron@primeems.com

You're on the right track. Go about 10 times deeper, getting progressively less 'exciting' and you'll be there

The core plug Nazi has spoken! :biggrin: From the previous thread (Garrett's), I always felt there was a missing link. The thermostat makes sense to me. The combination of a closed, or mostly closed, thermostat with a leaking head gasket, would seem the right 'recipe'.

Jon, I was trying to establish the link between the diff. moving and the strap mounts being different. It makes sense. I was just wondering if anyone could actually CONFIRM that with their '71.

Interesting Garrett, That mount was born partly out of the need to re-align the U-joints in a JTR car. Are you using it verbatim or have you modified it to retain stock angles?

Drawings are mine... No biggie though. Thanks for the solid write up.

Its looking like that is the answer... the first two years having the forward mounted differentials. Can anyone confirm a '71? Exactly... but it implies a solid design in the first place. Said another way... If it needs to be 1/4" plate, it needs to be REDESIGNED. Yes, I'm admitting some substantial improvement could be made with this mount If you knew how fleeting that design was, you'd probably chuckle. Its only strength is that its easy, quick, and cheap. If I were to build another, it would be very different indeed... it would cost 3 times as much, take 10 times longer, and require a machine shop

I look at it this way... a healthy SBC could make 380ftlbs. If you get traction in second gear at torque peak with, for example, a T5 and run a 3.54 butt gear, this equates to approximately 2600 lbs of force pushing up on that mount. Would you jack up your ENTIRE car from that point, repeatedly for 20 years? Overkill? Yeah, probably. Massive overkill? I’m not so certain. Especially if you consider the weight penalty is less then 1.5lbs. I concur though... the 1/8” 'legs' are probably PLENTY sufficient.

BJ, Don't panic yet. I was about to question Pop... The original mount for Pete P. was built ON a 240Z ('72) and the drawing is a direct reflection of that part. And, if I'm not mistaken, Petes car is also a 240Z. I'm not sure where the discrepancy is. Pop N Wood, what year car is yours?

Not following you. The PCV system pulls crank-case vapors into the intake manifold (with manifold vacuum) via the PCV valve. The PCV valve is plumbed into the bottom, central portion of a stock manifold.

Not gas. Oil vapor from the PCV=carbon build-up.

Dang!... may very own 'monument' Good Job.

Your third request doesn't fit the first two There are aftermarket manifold/throttle manufactures that produce proven, reliable intakes... but not cheap. TWM and Electromotive are the first two to come to mind (they may even be the same?). Lonewolf offers one at a fair price, but I don't know how PROVEN it is. Maybe do a search? I'm in the process of building a couple that I expect to work well, but they will NOT be cheap. There are others. None that meet all three of your requirements (that I'm aware of). If you find me mistaken, please post your findings.