RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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RacerX,
Instead of us blindly rattling off engines... why not tell us your goals?
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Wow, okay so with very little engine experience, a fair bit of mechanical intuition, and a chiltons manual; i managed to replace the head on my engine by myself in a week... I'm fairly satisfied with my work
amazing....And thus it begins... the never ending fulfillment of ones own work.
I remember, not that long ago, a story not unlike yours... and now... many Z friends, scarred knuckles, shallow pockets, and... hailing a big grin
Welcome to the 'club'
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if you can install a particular engine into the Porsche 914 engine bay without having to hack up sheetmetal - wouldn't it then be conceivable that the same motor would fit within the 240Z engine compartment?
Its not that simple... that is to say, its not apples to apples. The 914 is a north-south mid-engine car. I don't recall the Z being that way
In all fairness, an S30 has a HUGE engine bay. There's not much that won't fit in there
A proper decision is more likely to be influenced by cost's or goal's than "what can I fit in there?".
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I dropped a SHO V6 in my Zcar close to 10 years ago but never finished it.
I have to admit, the SHO is attractive.
Of course, Nissan makes the VG30DE. But, in a boosted application, the SHO appears to be superior. The biggest drawback is simply that there are no foot-steps to follow in.
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... I love purists, they make me laugh a little. Well, laugh and want to pee in their shoes. Pee while laughing really. Hard to aim.. worth it though.
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How about a BMW M50... plentiful and nearly bullet-proof. Swede's get over 1000HP out of them.
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C4 Corvette, at least the early models (I'm thinking through '91, but not positive) fit pretty dang well in a 240 or early 260. Not sure about late 260 or 280, due to the tunnel being wider... I'm suspecting not.
I also tried '92 Toyota Paseo seats... a little more work to install but also decent. One issue with these is a noticeable loss of leg room. If you're long-legged, pass on these.
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3. Use oversize rod ends like Terry did and then make offset spacers to fix the misalignment.
Again, big PITA, not sure how to get the spacers machined offset like that.
Jon,
If this is what I think it is, it may not be that big of a deal. PM me a sketch or picture and I'll see what I can come up with.
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You need shocks matched to the springs for the application (street) and it's extremely unlikely you will ever get that since these cars are way past the time when anybody in the shock business was interested in valving shocks for Z's.
Just takes money
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Hi all i have a 280zx and i want to know is there a way to clean up all the clutter in the motor bay? I have all these rubber lines all over the place and have no idea what they are and what they do.... but i want to know is there a way to clean out all or a majority of thoses hosses to make my intake mani clean?
It can be done... just takes commitment. See below Pict of '76 280Z... s130 EFI is nearly identical.
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Maybe the 4.5K ohm resistor isn't needed to tie the reset high (or low)...because I have this sinking feeling I have Taylor Wires (new set) in that thing....Dammit!
Paul and I were having our typical BS session... listening to the troubles, sounded to me like ignition interference (Jacobs wires are not impressive, from an EMI perspective). I had a set of Magnecore's handy and convinced him to give them a try (didn't take much
). Even with non-resistor plugs, they resolved the reset issues. In my opinion, if MS is that sensitive, I would use resistor plugs coupled with confirmed suppression wires.
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Just wanted to say that there ain't nothin wrong with a Honda... its the rice-boy attitude that gets old.
Congrats on the DD.
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Strotter,
Your above statement matches your sig...
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I speak from experience when I say there is no problem that can't be solved by the hybridz memebers when it comes to the megasquirt install.
Did you tell that to TonyD?...
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115390
It looks like you've had a serious change of heart in 4 weeks
Ok, before you pummel me... I'm just having a little fun. Please don't take me seriously. Really
I hear these MS stories ALL the time. They have some growing up to do. I do believe, in a few years, when they get past this teething period, MS will be very interesting indeed. Time will tell. But, for now, I would never recommend a system to someone with that kind of track record. And as for me, I'd rather spend $750 to avoid it. Not everyone would. Admittedly, virtually all the available systems have thier 'issues'. Some just more than others.
Again, please don't take offense to this. I'm rather impressed with your spirit. Anyone that has survived those kinds of issues deserves a 'tip of the hat'.
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If you are considering spending the huge $$$ for a Haltech - spring for the top of the line - pre-assembled MS1 - v3.0 unit
trwebb26.
I really wouldn't consider MS to be on par with Haltech... not sure if thats what you're implying? MS still has a lot of maturing to do. Haltech is a much more refined system.
Turbo280Z,
Buy the best you can afford. If you can afford Haltech and you've narrowed your selection to these two systems (there are MANY other fine systems) then buy the Haltech.
If you're new to aftermarket EFI, and I'm assuming you are, then I might recommend SDS. Its easy to install, easy to use and will likely provide better results than MS. Its drawback is that its limited in terms of growth. More money than MS but less than Haltech. Wolf3D is slightly more expensive then SDS (still less then Haltech) and is a VERY flexible/powerful system. The list go's on...
If you haven't already, do your homework.
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In November ‘88, I bought my first car... a ‘74 1/2 260 automatic. What a heap (not so much the model, just the condition). I owned it for about 5 years. Met my wife in it. Never did anything with it save for drive it.
Since then, I’ve bought and sold so many S30’s I can't remember them all, most of them 240’s. Completed some nice mods... and some embarrassing ones as well. Couple V8 swaps, Turbo L6, EFI retrofits, suspension upgrades of various sorts, rear disks, etc. Autocrossed a couple of them, the LT1 car pretty seriously for a while.
In between the Z’s, I've owned a couple Vettes, RX7 Turbo II, Impala SS, Turbo Beetle, etc. I raced them all and liked them all. But... I still kept coming back to the Z.
The Z has a very connected, almost raw, feel to it. Although the steering is ho-hum, the rest of the car delivers a pure sensation, especially out back. I’ve never driven a car that I could drift with more confidence then a Z. You can thread a needle with a properly sorted Z. They may not be the fastest cars, but the driving EXPERIENCE is what sets them apart.
About a year ago I bought a pretty clean E30 M3. Its the only car that has captured me like the Z. With a few careful modifications, it has a lot of the same raw personality. Not the artificial feeling that most other cars deliver. Its razor sharp, comfortable, reasonably quiet, seats 4... and as fun to drive as the Z
In the last few years, I’ve come to the conclusion that Z’s aren’t that great. It takes money and time to build a high performance car out of one. Even then, there are some hurdles that are difficult to overcome. For the money it takes to build a substantial Z, I could buy a used M3, C5, or FD... and have money AND time left over.
I love the M, but I look out the window and see my currently stock Z sitting there... just begging to be molested.
And the biggest draw... A huge percentage of the important people in my life, are in some way connected through Z’s.
I’ll die a Z owner... if not literally, at least in spirit.
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just get a 81 zx, put on some tall tires, seal everything up and desert rally it, thats what happened to my first z.
Thats what ZX's are for
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lol, my freind and i were watching a video on her laptop while on a 16 hour flight and she had a set of these sony "glasstron" glasses, lets just say they are freakin sweet!!
LOL!!!
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Its all clear to me now... I'd be bored If I lived there too
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dont laugh, its real
Well, my wife would say, VR is easier
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Ok, call me curious.. WHERE is Palm Desert?
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I guess that is an all out race spring setup.
Not really. Double that might be
What would you suggest for a street application
175/225 seems to be a common recommendation from the searches I have done.
Too subjective. The rates you already have would approach my tolerance levels for street duty, depending on the strut, bars, etc.
If free length is same (front and rear) then I would suggest a 'free' experiment. Swap them. Yep, front to rear. Don't forget, in an Z, you are practically sitting on the rear wheels. Small changes in rear rate are very noticeable. Try it and let us know what you think.
Yeah, I know, that might screw up the balance. The key word is MIGHT. Cars that are front camber challenged sometimes respond well to a stiffer front, damn the books.
amazing.
). Even with non-resistor plugs, they resolved the reset issues. 
fuel method
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
typhoone,
This thread is a pot stirrer If I've ever seen one ;-D
I look at it this way... The narrower the engines operating conditions are, the better the carburetor looks. The wider range of expected use, the better EFI looks.
For example, If you had a single cylinder engine, running a fixed rpm, fixed load, fixed temperature, fixed barometric pressure, fixed humidity, fixed fuel, etc, etc. Carb'd, it will likely make more power, more efficiently (if optimized, of course) than with EFI.
On the other hand, throw in a broad range of environmental conditions, altutude changes, extreme rpm ranges, load changes, turbo's and so on... the EFI will adapt to the conditions far better than a carb.
The larger the dynamic range of conditions subjected to the engine, the more EFI shines.
Either way, if you're serious, give it the due diligence it deserves...