RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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I guess that is an all out race spring setup.
Not really. Double that might be
What would you suggest for a street application
175/225 seems to be a common recommendation from the searches I have done.
Too subjective. The rates you already have would approach my tolerance levels for street duty, depending on the strut, bars, etc.
If free length is same (front and rear) then I would suggest a 'free' experiment. Swap them. Yep, front to rear. Don't forget, in an Z, you are practically sitting on the rear wheels. Small changes in rear rate are very noticeable. Try it and let us know what you think.
Yeah, I know, that might screw up the balance. The key word is MIGHT. Cars that are front camber challenged sometimes respond well to a stiffer front, damn the books.
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Hoov,
Not sure if that was a response to my deleted post? If I owned a Z31, I would seriously consider massaging the semi-trailing arm suspension rather than morphing it into s13 territory. In short, I haven't been impressed with that suspension (s13). On the other hand, semi-trailing arm is a mixed bag... inexpensive and simple (along with the frame of mind that comes with it) but also successful. Think BMW M3 (E30) and Porsche 944. These cars had different geometry but, on paper, not that much different. In the end, I'm not saying semi-trailing arm is perfect, but I AM saying that it has proven itself. And MAYBE, it could be refined to your satisfaction.
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JNJ vs. 1QZ???
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The only problems encountered were electrical in nature, along with chronic back pain from the truly miserable seats.
I would have to say I have driven MANY miles in early Z's. Probably between 3 and 400,000. In terms of reliability, not too many cars have impressed me more. However, as Strotter mentioned, the seats flat SUCK. It could be my personal dimensions. Whatever the reason, for me, the seats are the single biggest inconvienece to travel in an S30.
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1. How do I identify which pound springs I have?
2. Is the rough ride a function of the springs, struts or both?
3. What is a good setup for a street machine with a few track events each year?
Thanks
1. Its printed on the spring... three numbers seperated by a period. For example... 0800.250.0350. This means 8" free length, 2.5" dia, 350lbs.
2. Rough ride can be a function of many things. Struts can be the largest contributor.
3. That question is SO subjective (personal tolerances) and open to MANY other variables that there cannot be ONE answer. Tell us more what "track events" means to you?
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I would recommend a new Haltech harness. It should lend itself to a cleaner installation, less chance of error, and easier to troubleshoot future gremlins.
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Usually seems to be broken or loose connectors that are at issue.
Yep, that covers 99% of the problems.
I've only run into a couple of AFM issues and one bad ECM.
My contention is that it's usually not in very good shape.Agreed. The beauty of it is that its such a simple system, it doesn't usually take much effort to freshen them up. I usually spend more time fixing other peoples 'fixing'.
And when it's in fantastic shape, it's still not very good at making power or tunability, etc.
Amen.
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L Series Fuel Injection = Unreliable (even if in good condition)
I'll be the first to admit that the OE EFI is confining in terms of power... but in no way is it unreliable. If it is in 'good' condition (as you say), it is nearly bulletproof. I've owned and tuned countless systems and reliability has never been the 'nose wrinkler'.
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I don't understand your question.
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It will be interesting to see what the pressure surveys come back with when they get done this round of mods!
You're expected to share
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Olie,
This probably doesn't fit your "cleanest install ever" parameter, but you could use the distributor quill shaft to run a 'cam' sensor. Certainly not the only way but, I found this to be the easiest way.
If you come up with an elegant alternative solution I'd love to hear it! Keep us posted.
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See it all the time with airports as well... People move next door to an airport thats been there for 80 years, and suddenly, they're pissed off about planes.
Sorry for the off-topic... just had to vent.
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Interesting Tony,
I didn't think anybody had reached that level of efficiency. Cool stuff.
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Awesome article! Thanks.
Gary Savage reported using one of these for more than 10 years in his VG30DETT 510 which had 300 ft/lbs torque at the wheels.If it matters... Savage's car was a VG30ET. Dave Lums 510 is a VG30DETT... to my knowledge, the only one in the country (also with an R180LSD for years now as well).
ALL PICTURES WERE TAKEN FROM THE HYBRIDZ ALBUM. IF YOU DON'T WANT YOUR PICTURE USED, LET ME KNOW AND I'LL REMOVE IT.I hope this wasn't 'casued' by me? I want to apologize for being stubborn with Lunar240z (over 240Hokes car). I guess I'm a little too passionate about that sort of thing
Take care Buddy.
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Like I said in the beginning, it's for overlap at low speeds with big cams.
Well said, Tony
A Turbo usually has higher exhaust pressure than intake pressure
I'll second that... and I'll go so far as to say always has higher exhaust pressure than intake.
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My '72 240Z with LT1/T56 weighed 2450 (dry). This includes R200 LSD, sectioned struts, rear disc brake conversion, coil overs, CV half-shafts, scratch-built fuel tank, power steering pump (recirculating), aluminum driveshaft, LT1 EMS, and Panasports.
P.S. I weighed it on bathroom scales... Is that OK?
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Dapiper,
That would be great... I would love to see it.
I get the feeling we're talking about two different things... maybe the O-scope dump will clarify.
Thanks,
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That's a good idea Ron, but if he already pressed the bearings on, it's going to be tough to get them back off without a special tool.
Maybe food for thought for the next guy?
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I remember, when I installed my Nismo LSD, I ended up pressing one of the bearings on after inserting the center section. There may be a better way, but at the time, it seemed the most appropriate.
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Mike,
I didn't really mean it THAT way
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I think Pop is right on track. I may not purchase the same things that Pop would, but there would most certainly be other items (every one wants something different) that would cost roughly the same.
In my opinion it is wise to give benifit of the doubt to the person whom has done it, rather than whom hasn't. That said, olderthanme, may I suggest you PM a couple guys that have COMPLETED thier LS swaps and ask them their thoughts?
*edit* If I were building an LSx/T56 Z, I would not budget ANYTHING less than $5k... and that would be for a largely stock motor.
something interesting...(s13 IRS on z31..)
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Ok, call me curious.. WHERE is Palm Desert?