RTz

I have no idea. Google loaned me that sheet. It was simply to make the point that a dyno sheet doesn't constitute documentation. It's the Internet and people do funny things. Without supporting information, claims ought to be taken with the proverbial grain.

422 Horsepower. Do I get a cookie now?

Documentation of my 3.2 Z...

Tilton 74 Series, part no. 74-812U Pegasus uses part no. 3505-.81

I replaced the clutch MC with a 13/16" model. I was planning on waiting until after start up, but it was haunting me. Pedal effort is firm, but reasonable. More like a C4 than an M3 I think a 3/4" MC would work (15% less effort) but I think it would be approaching the minimum travel limit. The Datsun pedal has roughly 20% less travel than the BMW, and that's not helping matters. Another item to check off is the water temp sender. There really isn't a good place for it. I came up with an easy, but less than ideal solution. I used a stock Z sender (BMW sender is a very different range), the BMW hose barb (screws into the head) and a 16mm nut (the nut from the diff strap is the right size and pitch). Machined a sleeve with a tapered seat and welded it together... It's in contact with the water, but not exposed to water FLOW. I'm expecting this to slow the gauge down some. Since the water temp sensor is in close proximity and Wolf will report the numbers real-time, I'll get a good feel of how much I can trust it. If it proves to be unreasonable, there is a plan B... the port in the head was originally used to supply water to the throttle body, and returned water to the water manifold just below it. It wouldn't be difficult to create a similar path with the temp sender in between, exposing the sender to water flow. I'm trying to avoid doing this because all of this water then bypasses the radiator. Or, I may just cowboy up, use the BMW sender, and do some electronic work. Ordered a new OE oil pressure sender from Jordan at Lithia Nissan. BMW used an oil pressure switch with 12mm x 1.5 threads and a copper gasket. I machined a bolt with matching threads, and tapped 1/8" NPT threads into the head... Installed the G5... And when I wasn't looking, BRAAP was kind enough to install an airbag for me (he probably thinks I need it)... On a tangent, I made another set of engine mounts for a fellow enthusiast. He'll be doing some fitment testing on his car to see what else we run into...

This was designed for 1.5" ID runners, and it put the runner floor even with the port floor (raised the port centerline).

I'll see what I can dig up for you this weekend.

BRAAP is celebrating his 6th birthday today. Have a good one, Bro!

Yeah, it was scrapped for a BMW manifold... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79806-rt260-bmw-m-powered/ The CF plug is sitting high on a shelf. When I'm feeling nostalgic I may pull it down have another go at it. The BMW conversion comes first, as well as one other large project, so it may be a few decades

If I were to tackle something like this, I would be looking hard at aftermarket EFI. Some of them are powerful enough to control electronic transmissions... then it's a matter of using auxiliary channels for paddle inputs.

It's a little hard to read, but the angular dimension noted in post #20 is a frogs whisker over 49 Deg.

Posts deleted. This forum is not about guessing, nor is it a chat room. Post the results or don't, but stop playing games.

The OE water plumbing under the intake is a goofy looking thing and it doesn't fit it's new home so well... I deleted the throttle-body heat, relocated the heater return, and eliminated the expansion tank. The cooling system retains a constant high-point bleed and bypass (small hose running to the top of the radiator), but expansion is now handled by a traditional recovery tank ('89 Mazda B2200)... The Datsun clutch MC is too small to work with the BMW clutch. The BMW master is 3/4" but it has different pedal leverage. A quick phone call to Pegasus and... The Tilton 74 series MC has the same bolt pattern as the Datsun, but it requires a couple small mods to work... shorten the rod a touch, tweak the hard-line a smidge, and install an SAE flare nut. Unfortunately I blew the math. It functions... stiffly. A 1" MC is bigger than it needs to be. I'll have to back up and re-run the numbers, but for now, it'll get the car driving. So... the Great Pumpkin is officially off the jack-stands until after start up. Only three projects left on the to-do list... chassis electrical, EFI, and the M50 intake conversion.

Nope. Sticking with Wolf. I have both manifolds and both rails. I'll be using the M50 manifold with S52 injectors. Some of the info below is for you, and some is for everyone else. You'll know what to skip... The S52 manifold that came on the '96-'99 M3's have *much* smaller runners and a slightly smaller plenum than the M50 manifolds. According to bmw-m.net, a flow bench showed an average of 46% greater flow per cylinder. It may sound like overkill, but keep in mind the M50 manifold was original equipment on '95 M3's. Torque peak was @ 4250 on 3.0 liters. With the later/smaller/OBDII manifold, torque peak comes in at 3800 on 3.2 liters. It's a popular swap. Mostly inexpensive, and the HP claims range from 10 to 25 on otherwise stock motors. Runner difference is very visible... As implied, you trade some bottom end power for top end. Since this car will be roughly 700 lbs lighter, geared slightly lower, with a more aggressive exhaust than the donor M3 it came from, I don't feel it's a misdirected step. Where it is pertinent to my Z... In the picture below, you see the S52 manifold, rail, and it's proximity to the hood latch. With the poly engine mounts, this is plenty of clearance... But, have a look at the next picture. The M50 manifold raises the injectors (and concurrently the rail) approximately 1"... There definitely isn't room for that. However, the M50 manifold is fitted with a shorter rail (rectangular instead of square). It's a bit closer to the latch, but still doable with poly mounts. In short, use a matching rail... S52 rail with S52 manifold. M50 rail with M50 manifold. A couple of additional notes... (1) The rail mounts are in slightly different locations and will require small offset plates if you mix them. (2) The S52 rail has a Schrader valve built-in and no pressure regulator. The M50 has a built-in regulator, but no Schrader. (3) The M50 conversion is not a direct bolt on. There are no provisions for the air/oil separator and the ancillary plumbing is very different. Yes... if you use BMW's EFI. Most aftermarket EMS's allow you to use an alternate load device. In the case of Wolf, I can use just about any load sensor available, ie AFM, MAF, TPS, or MAP. This installation will be MAP based.

280zex, I suggest you don't do that again.

1) I usually find them on 240's. I'm also pretty certain there is an aftermarket company or two selling them. You might check with zccjdm.com 2) If you are doing it for weight purposes, I might advise against it, especially if you plan to spin the motor at high RPM. Generally, a heavy front damper and light flywheel/clutch is better for our L6's.

Exactly. I've swapped a few S30's over to modest rear discs, purely for consistency. Most of my activities are street and autocross (where repeatability wins races). Stock fronts, appropriately sized rear discs, prop valve, and a proper set of pads have served me well... even with V8 power.

cgmeredithjr, You've made gallant claims for many months now, with little validation other than a parts list. Don't expect everyone here to bow and kneel because you say so. If you can back it up empirically, terrific. Many of us would be delighted if you did.

Definitely something to be proud of. Well done John.

First, an apology for the cell phone pics. My DSLR battery charger has been AWOL for a few weeks and I know, just as soon as I buy a replacement, it'll reappear. I'd really like it to surface BEFORE then 12 lb single-mass flywheel and new (stock M3) clutch arrived... As did an LC1. I've used the G5 gauge in the past and it works nicely when fitted to the stock clock location... Made plugs for the air injection system... Re-routed the clutch hydraulics to the drivers side. This opened up a nice spot to run the AN/Pushloc converted fuel supply line. I'm running the fuel rail in dead-head mode and abandoning the return line. BMW did this electronically- sort of... the system is run in recirculation mode for 20 seconds after start up, after which a solenoid switches to non-recirc. Lokar throttle cable is an easy fit and nearly a straight shot... Unbolted the stock heater supply elbow (pointing the wrong direction) and screwed in a barb fitting. I wouldn't do this again. What I didn't realize at the time is there is a pipe press-fitted into the head to create that water jacket. I *thought* it was cast in. I discovered this shortly after drilling this for 1/2" NPT. I stopped before going far enough to become a problem, fortunately. There is enough room for a couple of other choices, but this one is done Radiator hoses, air filter, and a few misc chores are also checked off the list. A note on the air filter: I have a few different ideas for the intake. They are all either involved or expensive, so this will serve the purpose... for now.

Bawb, If I remember correctly, you're planning to boost your motor. Do you have much need for aftermaket? Your stock cams will probably be more than adequate, as you've mentioned a standalone should be in the recipe, JE Pistons can handle any CR goal, the chances of any BMW turbo manifold fitting a Z are pretty well nill, so it's a wash either way, plumbing will always have to be custom for these types of projects, etc, etc. Unless your target is 1000hp, the road blocks should be manageable. In other words, stop making excuses and get that damn thing running so we can rendezvous at the first annual EuroZfest

As garvice pointed out, there can be advantages. As long as you have some respect for what you're doing, it's a great exercise.

It can be true with some of the Chinese mounts that you find at Kragen, Carquest, etc. I've had good luck with OEM GM mounts. They're softer and stronger. Of course the Energy Suspension poly mount is tougher yet.