RTz

I've never liked the position of the stock Z shifter. It's too far forward for my tastes. I much prefer the shifter be on a similar plane as the steering wheel. Exaggerating the problem is my 2 1/2" steering wheel spacer. Fortunately, the BMW trans. is external rail and lengthening the rails was not much effort. I lengthened them exactly 8" with 1/2" solid aluminum round stock, welded to either side of the original upper rail. The lower rail was done with a single piece of steel tubing. I believe it's possible to do this this swap with the shifter landing in the stock location, but you'll need to get creative with shifter offset. The third picture (above) also shows the aluminum block machined to accept the stock BMW bushing for the rear shifter mount. Needed a notch in the tunnel stiffener. The upper shift rail needs this 'pocket' to run through. Notched, sealed, and undercoated... An 18ga sheet steel plate was fab'd, welded in, seam sealed, painted, and undercoated to accommodate the new shifter location... Driveshaft installed (notice the copious exhaust room!)... I can now address the driveline geometry question with some certitude. After shimming the RT diff. mount 1/4", the guibo is running at an angle of 0.1 degrees (it's able to run with some angular deflection, but it needs to stay as straight as practical). The CV joint is running at 1.6 degrees, well within the comfort zone of CV's. Today, I can officially claim the drivetrain to be fully mated. Think I'll have a beer

If your 3G is in good overall condition, you should be able to sell it for more than $200. I know of people that pulled that much out of 2G phones, and over $400 for the 3GS's. My iP4 arrives this Tues. I'm expecting it to be a significant jump over my 4 year old 1st gen. phone.

Your problem is not vapor lock.

I'm going to give away two sets of stickers, one small/one large x 2. One set will go to the member that posts whatever raffle/game I chose, the second set will go to the winner of chosen 'game'. In other words... 1) Propose the entertainment. Whichever members idea I use, wins one set of stickers. Deadline 8/1/10. Note: If your idea is the same as another member, whomever posted it first is victor. 2) Afterward, win chosen game, and another set will be shipped to your doorstep. Note: If the game is information based, you are not eligible for both scenarios. Easy enough? Let the games begin... P.S. I will be more inclined to chose games that are related to automobiles, and especially jaded if the content is Datsun related P.P.S Sticker information here... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89174-hybrid-z-vinyl-stickers-for-sale-support-your-favorite-forum/

Speechless.

Do not use the MSD6A with any LSx coils. I apologize if I'm jumping to the wrong conclusion but, if you're referring to the brackets I sell, they only work with the truck/Suburban coils.

I am selling the mounts. I can source everything else for you, but it will cost more than sourcing it yourself.

Yes, it would be wise to check your fuel pressure. Yes, a cold start valve can cause excessively rich conditions. You can probably get away with deleting it altogether. My Z's start just find down to 8 deg. F. It's common to have a malfunctioning water temp. sensor/circuit. Usually poor connections, but the sensors are also suspect. An improperly working water temp. sensor will flood an engine pretty quickly. The AFM can also cause similar symptoms, but more challenging to diagnose. Start with the simple stuff. Download the EFI Bible. It's not specific to your turbo EFI, but it's heavily related and will help you understand the concepts. Please avoid cross posting. I'll delete the other thread.

Nope. Please try to use a descriptive subject title and avoid frequent bumping.

We've talked about this before. Suspended 10 day's.

Yetterben,

Clever, but no.

Your entertainment is justified Probably three people know the history, so why not here? In 1997 I had completed and was campaigning the LT1/T56 powered 240z http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/52346-lt1t56-240z/ Bob Maggio had completed the same swap in a 280z roughly six months prior but, as far as anyone knows, it had never been done in a 240. There was no documentation and no HBZ. I was having problems tearing the diff mount. I don't recall how many mounts I tore or how many band-aids I applied. What I remember is, Friday afternoon, 'busting another'... with a race scheduled for Saturday. At the time, I was much more fanatical, and this was an EMERGENCY dammit! All I had on hand was some scrap aluminum, a MIG machine, and a local, cheap auto parts house. In desperation I built the ugliest diff mount in history. If you've ever welded aluminum with a MIG machine, you'll likely empathize with that sort of 'fun'. I was gun shy and concerned about tearing the isolators again. The long nose R200 has four holes right? Why not *TWO* turbo 350 mounts? So there it was, in all it's funk... two trans. mounts, on top of the diff, mated to a soda can bridge, a few hours before flag down. It survived the race. At the time, I was also struggling with driveline vibrations. This led to further experimenting. Pinion angles, lower contact areas, shaft material, and so on. In the end, I built a steel 'bridge' with a single, shim-able, GM mount. I was on mount number three or four by this time. It was simple and I was making progress. I don't recall the specifics, but I remember a few of us talking long distance. JohnC, Rags, Ross Corrigan, Pete Paraska, Jim Biondo, BRAAP, etc. This was before HBZ's time. In fact, it was before Internet forums were generally in vogue. Pete and I began discussing this very topic, and I shared my 'experiment'. He asked me to replicate it for him. So, I made ONE more, expressed my desire to avoid production, and asked him to keep the cost to himself ($20.00!). Pete kept his promise, and posted the mount and prints on his website. Regarding the donation, my relationship with Roostmonkey is top secret The few I built for myself are destroyed. Does this make Pete's a collector item? In my best Paul Harvey impression... "...and now you know the rest of the story..."

Type 1, mounted on car, 59 3/4" overall. However, they are very flimsy. It will fit into a 60" box.

If any member publicly shares that information on this forum, their posting privileges will be revoked indefinitely.

Yes, dimensions are included.

I haven't made any effort to keep a running tab. Even if I had, it probably wouldn't be terribly useful to others. I've been very blessed in that the 260 was virtually given to me, BRAAP sold me the BMW drivetrain for less than a 1/3 of typical pricing, my ties with Wolf resulted in reduced EMS costs, Roostmonkey donated an RT mount, I own a machine shop, so related work is 'free', and the list goes on. My out-of-pocket expenses aren't real-world reflective, so to speak.

Couple more items off the checklist. Poly motor mounts arrived (Ireland Engineering) , and drive shaft is completed (Driveline Service of Portland)... A note on the poly mounts: Close friend has a stunning E30 M3 2.5 4 cyl, with a handcrafted turbo conversion. He tried the poly mounts from Vorshlag and they were not street friendly. He switched to Ireland Engineering poly and noise/vibration are much more tolerable. Enough so, that I'm expecting them to be not completely unreasonable on a 6 cyl. Fingers crossed.

'98 M3...

Sticky throttle linkage?

It's probably a bad idea if you can't find a way to secure the harness.

Heck yeah!

Some people own BMW's because there is, in fact, a difference. Screw image. I want a skillful, tactile, AND pleasant car. Not many manufactures bare the fruit.