RTz

Not exactly. I think we need to back up a bit... your crank sensor is going to provide engine position information. All ignition and injection events will be timed to the crank trigger. The crankshaft makes 2 complete rotations (720 degrees) for the four complete cycles. The only thing the 'cam' sensor is doing is keeping track of which 'cycle' the engine is on by telling the ECU every time the crank has made two revolutions. Of course that's simplified, but the point is, the cam sensor should only be reporting one pulse every OTHER revolution of the crankshaft. No events are directly triggerd from the cam sensor in this type of installation. Side note: A proper cam trigger can be used in lieu of a crank signal. Using both adds complexity and the gains are typically less than the variations normally found within A dyno. For most of us mortals, a cam trigger is more than satisfactory.

You're on the right track. A couple things... 1) The red wire supplied by Wolf in the trigger harness is 5v. You can use it if you like, but 12v will provide a bit more buffer for noise. I've done both successfully. 2) I'm not versed with the Ford VR, so I'm uncertain of it's polarity. You may or may not have to reverse those two wires (A28 and A29). It won't harm anything to get it wrong, and the laptop will show you straight away if it's working correctly or not. One question; How are you planning to use the Datsun CAS for a single sync pulse? Custom disc, or covering 5 holes, or?

I started a 3D ACAD model of the structure. Mostly frame rails, strut towers, suspension pick-up's, firewall, core support, and drive-train mount locations. Parroting the others... what's the scoop? I may be coerced into contributing for the right reasons (beer ).

I agree with you, at least in absolute terms. To be clear, no staff member expects perfection... simply effort. Effort to be 'legible'. If you have to re-read a post 3 times and you're still lost, or you can't read it once without reaching for the Mylanta, there is a problem. Nine times out of ten it's directly related to laziness and lack of respect for the group. That's where we get cranky. If you can't muster the effort to write a readable sentence, how on earth do you expect to rummage the effort it takes to build a car? Tony is correct... garbage begets garbage.

Hey Bo, I'm getting pretty close to popping for a tach. and speedo. Are you still happy with these? Anything you don't like about them? I assume you bought them direct from Speedhut?

Electromotive gives you three choices... 60-2, 60-2, or 60-2 Wolf is pretty flexible with triggers. Not too much it can't be configured to. Of course the downside is some extra complexity. It's all a trade off.

Engine wouldn't shut off with the key. Hate that. Put a diode on the alternator field wire. Fixed. Probably end up re-pathing the field wire as to not rely on the diode. Been arm wrestling a finicky crank sensor. I didn't want to use the BMW sensor simply because they are bit expensive and not praised for reliability. I built a simple adapter to mate a Honeywell GT101 Hall sensor. I can buy one for the motor, one for the glovebox, and still have $50 left over. Over a couple day's of futzing with this sensor, it was becoming obvious that it wasn't going to work as-is (intermittent trigger errors and an overly picky air gap). Stuck the trigger wheel on the Birmingham and turned it into a 30-1 wheel (stock is 60-2). Quick reconfigure of Wolf and.... perfection. No more trigger errors and the gap is no longer ultra-sensitive (useful window was within .020", and now it's over .100"). Took the car out for it's first drive. Just a few blocks and no 'angriness' (sorry Drax/Cygnus, it's coming). Even with no tune time, It's WAY torque-ier than an L-series... and it's far too loud After the 1st I should be able to start getting serious about tuning

So... you're trying to re-wire your EFI without a schematic? You know, they're pretty easy to come by? I'll toss you a bone... 1) Injectors are not polarized. You can swap positive and negative. 2) The heavy solid green wire is power from the fusible links. Other wire is from the ECU and grounds the injectors to fire them. Now, for heavens sakes, go buy a manual.

There is (or was) a one-wire connector right above the factory ECU. It connected to pin 1 of the ECU and this is where the ECU got it's RPM information from. I have used this same connector to drive the tach with aftermarket ECU's.

Thanks guy's. Mission accomplished

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/

First run... Running it off the same map as the L28, with some overall fuel trim. Needs a lot of work of course. Got a handful of loose ends to address and it will be ready for it's maiden voyage.

So... I have to watch an advertisement to earn the privilege of watching an advertisement? Nice. And what's with Han? Did he Rick Roll the producers? Yes, the Grumpasaur is alive and kicking.

And since you listed "more expensive car" in your poll, you need this 600hp streetable E36... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1570818

ZO6 if autocrossing is important. Great 'tool', but not the most refined. NSX... positively drooling AND the wife will probably enjoy the right seat as much as you enjoy the left (is that sexist?). Clown shoe... fun AND practical. Drive it every day anywhere and still embarrass most other cars. P car... Yes

5. This site is based in the USA, and as such, text is to be written in English.

You just described the intent of this forum. This is very much the 'drive' of our aggressive rules enforcement. Descriptive titles, accurate spelling, and as fact-based as practical. This place *is* a Wiki just as soon as the whole group applies reasonable diligence.

Thanks guys. Quickie update- M50 manifold conversion complete. Battery, starter, and alternator are wired. ECU mounted. Water temp sensor, water temp sender, air temp, crank sensor, VANOS, TPS, oil pressure sender, air regulator, and canister purge are wired. All downhill from here. Guessing about 30 or so hours left...

I'm going to hang on to it for a while longer. Thanks for your patience.

www.betamotorsports.com

I did receive your PM. I have one left, but I haven't decided if I want to sell it or for how much. Give me a little time.

I installed the smaller Innovate G5 in the clock location. Not as attractive as the others but suits me fine...

Owner of a 2800 lb vertical mill, 1100 lb lathe, and a Millermatic reporting in. One of these years I add a TIG to the list.

Tim knows us quite a lot better than that.

Your observation is correct! Good catch. The injector layout in post #2 is accurate. All these drawings are old and unorganized... the remains of dual hard drive failure. I'll put it on my todo to re-create and scrub them. Thanks again.