RTz

Took a full day to prune the engine compartment harness... no more shunt, EGR, voltage reg., interlock, emergency switch, A/C controls, or ignition module. Also built the crossmember spacers (1/2"). I probably should have bought these from JTR ($25.00 shipped), but I had the material on hand and the milling machine made quick work of it.

1) The laws of physics haven't changed much in the last three years... this thread is just as relevant today as it was then. 2) Conductive, convective, and radiant heating are not the same thing.

There has been enough interest to build another small batch. 10 more ready for shipping. Please note: I have raised the price, but now include shipping.

Let the gutting begin... No turning back now

azcarbum was kind enough to import a set of Euro tails for me... Thanks Brian!

Removed... Front/rear bumpers and shocks. Factory A/C (underhood components only). Spare tire & jack. Installed... 240 front bumper. MSA Type 1 air dam. 15x6.5 alloy wheels with 205/50/15 Potenza RE-11's. Dry weight w/full interior, L28E, and 5 speed... 2450lbs Looks like my target of 2500lbs should be do-able. Modeled up the Ron Davis radiator. I think I've settled on the mounts. I want to be able to bolt it up to the stock locations. So far this is the cleanest option I've come up with... I'm still hammering out the fan shroud....

I have no plans of building another, for a while.

Yes... fix your temp. gauge before doing anything else. Guessing is overrated.

Trunk Monkey rocks! This dealership is about 5 minutes from me, so the ads are pretty prevalent around here. My favorite is the one you linked

I like Tony's rotor idea A couple decades back, I had a 260. It looked far nicer than it actually was. I'm tall, so the seat was always in the most rearward position. I lived in an apt. complex in a not-so-nice area. One evening, someone stole it, parked it under a bridge, and took the wheels and stereo. It was recovered the next day, with the seat *very* forward. Once back in my possession, with fresh equipment, I would swap the coil wire with one spark plug wire (at the cap). I reasoned, in the dark, the chances of the average Datsun thief figuring this out would be slim. A few mornings later, I found the door unlocked and the seat *far* forward. I'm reasonably certain it was the same pond scum. It worked at the time. And depending on the level of thief you're dealing with, it may work again.

It is likely to cause you trouble. The problem is, the engine/trans will move rearward and slam into the yoke, especially as you transition from hard braking to hard acceleration. The least that can happen is seal failure. A good friend did something similar with an S130. He cracked two tailshaft housings before figuring it out. I shoot for 1/2", but I suspect most people could get away with 3/8". Anything less than that (with rubber mounts) would have me uneasy.

If you're not interested in the bike, don't post.

Nope, sure can't. All I can tell you is I've tried several with HEI's and aftermarket EFI's, with no luck. I haven't been able to get one to respond. BRAAP has run into the same thing. They can be *made* to work, but I've never been able to get one working without resorting to trickery.

6'-4", and over 230lbs <hiccup><belch>, and the 240z is one of the DARN few sport cars that work for me. Legs and helmet both fit, well sometimes the helmet doesn't, but that's another issue (I learned to digress from Tony D, another big boy that fits).

Hi Derek, You should be able get closer to what you want by adjusting the geometry of the middle pivot.... Shortening "leg A" would slow the throttle down. Making the angle shallower, between "leg A" and "leg B", you'll get a slower initial response, with increasing rate as you get closer to WOT. It will probably take a few trial's to get it working fully, and to your liking. You might try building a simple sacrificial circular part (to temporarily replace the L-shape link), with multiple holes, so you can easily experiment.

Pete, What year tach? The '78 is a different beast. I haven't had much luck with those without an adapter.

Hi Frank, The cause seems to be mixing stiff trans bushings with soft engine bushings (or some similar relative combination), allowing the drivetrain to torque-over and stress the ears. My plan is exactly opposite... use the soft OE Datsun trans bushings and poly engine mounts from Ireland Engineering... I can't say with absolute certainty this will avoid the failure, but I believe it will. It may seem stubborn of me to take this risk, but I do have a reason. As I'm sure you know, in high G corners, the trans moves laterally, and the rear shift mount doesn't, causing the oh-too-common BMW money shift. This approach *should* cure that demon. Bummer. I was looking forward to seeing that one. I'll be waiting for the N series!

I think Bob and I are both looking forward to that day

Exactly. I touched on it a little in post #4. Not at all. I am saying, however, that I have choices no OEM has. I don't have to build a mass produced tune, for a mass produced engine, driven by clueless and inattentive owners. I don't have to manage my risk with a conservative tune because two million people aren't going to drive it. I am in a position to closely match the tune to this specific engine. Keep in mind not all engines are *exactly* the same. Even BMW reserved thier 'best' motors for the LTW cars. They didn't build 'special' engines, they mearly hand-picked them from the mass produced lot (and fitted them with alpha-n ) Additionally, standalone opens a few doors... turbocharging, cams, cam timing, intake, exhaust, etc. I haven't committed to how far I will go with this engine, but I want the choice.

Are you saying the timing has changed with no change to the software? If so, the most likley cause would be the spur gear on the quill shaft slipping. It's only pressed on... a roll pin is a good idea on these motors. Set "Timing Lock" to something reasonable (10 degrees, for example) and make absolutley certain actuall timing matches. If it doesn't, it will need to be adjusted either mechanically, or via the software. If adjusting with software, use the parameter "REF Degrees BTDC". Once matched, turn "Timing Lock" off.

What? No one likes my light weight mounts? But seriously, you'd be surprised how much weight dropped off. In 'solid' form, they're way overbuilt for the job. As far as drawings... they are virtually complete. I just haven't decided when/how they will be available. The only thing I'll say at this time... they will not be publicly available until after this car is running.

I bet you do