RTz

Reminds of the time I ended up in 'cuffs because my dash VIN didn't match my registration. Fortunately, the firewall did. Not the most pleasant experience, but funny now, thinking about it.

There was a member here, not long ago, that was 14 if memory serves.

Id

.050" won't cut it. I wouldn't boost a plenum with anything less than .125" unless your plenum shape and size is conducive to it. Tapering nicely from 38mm down to 1.375" (at the head) should work well... a fair compromise between response and total power.

I've seen that color combo before but, just for clarification, Bosch's colors are different than the brand you're referencing. From Bosch's website... "All Bosch 4-wire sensors have a black wire for the signal, a gray wire for ground and 2 white wires for the heater" http://www.boschautoparts.com/Resources/FAQS/OxygenSensors.htm

How much is it worth to you?

If you're looking for generic NB info... frequently 3-wire sensors will have two white wires and one black. The Black wire is the sensor output, and the two white wires are the heater. The heater has no polarity. Four wire sensors have an additional ground... sometimes its gray. HTH,

Oliver, The formula comes from a successful engine builder/tuner. I've also taken the time to plug in a few known manifolds and its always been within 2% of actual. So far, the formula confirms that the single largest influence on where the peak falls, is the area of the runner itself. The remaining parameters (TB, plenum size, configuration, etc) will influence the peak to a lesser degree, but can have a substantial impact on either side of the peak (as well as distribution and response)... the formula can't account for 'under the curve'. Unfortunately, I don't feel at liberty to disclose the math. However I'd be more than happy to run a few scenarios for you. Provide the following... Displacement (CID) Number of Cylinder's Intake Dia.

I received your PM and will bring it to Wolf. Give me a few days. ...and I'd like to see this thread remain on topic. Thanks,

Dammit Jon, you spoiled my fun... now I gotta behave

...or how about when two people co-drive the same car, but one is substantially faster than the other? Happens all the time.

I'm with Jon.... do it all the time... post better lap times with lesser cars. Wanna race?

You guy's kill me. I don't know whether to laugh or cry Shamefully, I've already got one picked out... CLK63 AMG Black Series. 500hp, 0-60 in 4.1, and reportedly brilliant handling... "The out-of-the-box, on-the-road solution is insane. Anyone who wants, needs or thinks he could use more lateral grip on a public road should have their license revoked on general principle." Jay Shoemaker. I might be able to DD it ... Photo by: No idea.

The S30 Is fun, sexy, raw, competitive, easy to maintain, and you can touch the rear tires without leaving the drivers seat As a DD, it also has... Frightening accident protection. Wreaks of fumes (catalyzed, tuned, or otherwise). Ride quality disproportionate to handling (and downright unimpressive on irregular pavement). Noisy. Steering sucks. Horrific seats. No cruise control. Poor lighting. Marginal or non-existent HVAC. By comparison, my E30 M3 has 750 lb/In springs F&R with handling to match the numbers... but surprisingly reasonable compliance and ride quality (ie wife approves). Steering is not only sharp and communicative, its also appropriately weighted and linear as well. Quite enough to have the stereo on at a perceptible level AND carry on a conversation with my delectable wife in a 'normal' tone. Has A/C, Recaro seats, CC, acceptable accident protection, gets 30 MPG, and costs LESS than what it would take to duplicate in an S30. The M3 is one example. There are a number of modern cars that can match or exceed the S30 for less investment... some of them are even 'disposable'. An S30 is purely a toy in my opinion. A terrificly beautiful, rewarding toy... but still a toy. Competitive on nearly any level... but not without investing serious time and capitol. Many of us view it as the perfect canvas with which to paint our masterpiece, and I couldn't agreee more.... I just don't want to drive it every day.

Hmm.... well, I could be mistaken. I'll check next time I'm out there. That's an EA82 you're looking at correct? Its not that simple. Only one intake valve is open at any given time, so separating the cylinders into two banks and using two TB's, doesn't change much. Adding six, one per cylinder, gains you little. Also, even if the throttle is 45mm, an L28 intake valve is 44mm. While the valve doesn't open completely, and has a stem, don't dismiss the throttle shaft/screws. Its quite restrictive. My point is, even at 45mm its cutting things a little close, in my opinion. I'd like to see about 15-20% more flow through the throttle than the valve. Thats a reasonable compromise between 'enough' and 'too much'. Point taken... and its a good one at that. Some of the best ideas have sprouted from the JY.

The crossmember is quite easy if you're remotely inclined. No CNC anything required... just basic fab tools. With your tube frame, you have a clean sheet. Now is when it would be prudent to define what you want and stick to it, else it becomes like my project and many others... never finished. Its far to easy to get caught up in exotic, when all you really want is reasonable improvement. If you don't define where to stop... you wont.

Should be fun Brian!

I was able to get a tad more than 30 degrees steering angle (with 255/50/16 tires). Unfortunately, I hadn't built in any real ackerman. If I were doing it now, I would design for ackerman and that would reduce that angle (on the outboard wheel). I agree with the benefits of a wider track. At the time I was very opposed to flares of any sort. Today... I'd probably consider it.

A couple of day's ago I was combing a JY and spotted the same thing. What detracted me from it was the throttle size. I didn't measure it but it struck me as quite small.

You're right, there isn't. Once again, the pictures, as you see them, are of an incomplete project. It would not work 'as shown'. Part of the missing piece is the crossmember. Built for a T-Bird Turbo Coupe power rack, it was intended that some of the loads of the upper mounts would be channeled to it (via triangulated tubing), and some of them would be transferred to the rest of the chassis via triangulated tubing. Sort of like a tube frame car, with an underlying unibody. Its clunky at best, but the idea was simply proof of concept. . . . . . .

These uprights, for a mid-engine scracthbuilt car I was building, are a bit more suitable, and fit within a 16" wheel. Again, they use the C4 front spindle. . .

Actually, they came from my website... its amazing what comes back to haunt you Of course there were provisions, if only in my head, to structurally reinforce... project was shelved before it materialized. There are a number of things 'wrong' with it... I would approach it differently if I were to do it again. For giggles, here is a 9.5" wheel mounted, that fit 'under' the fender... . .

When I wore a younger mans shoes, I used to drive an S30 every day. Did for many years. Anymore, I only drive one occasionally. I think most of us become less tolerant (or maybe spoiled?) as we age. I keep thinking someday I'll refine one enough to be worthy of DD status. The reality is that it will probably never happen... its too easy to buy a 'runabout' to beat on. For many reasons a disposable car is appealing.

Richer than 14.7 produces more CO, leaner than produces more NOX. 14.7 is where they cross... the lowest volume of both. At least, that's how I understand it. Your suggestions also normally work for stock-cammed NA L28's (even in open loop). Thanks for sharing. I kept forgetting to ask you how you faired.... that 11.3 pass had me distracted