RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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Now I feel guilty... sheesh.
Apologies,
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Whoa there Ron. I think you are jumping the gun a bit..
mAd sKilLs, yo... V-tEk kiKen... sMurf OFf.... yea.... i mean yea...
tYleR ouT.... yO
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"Captain" , Jack, Sparrah,
I'm invoking the right to Parlay...
Cpt. Jack, If you want to show your backside to your turbo buddies, then I suggest installing a #9 resistor...
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You know how them Oregonians are... ya just can't trust 'em
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I decided to go with the Tec3 for a few reasons, but mainly because of the kick butt full ignition system that comes with it.
Hugh,
That is a debate all in itself. I have had good success with Electromotives ignition system. I'd use it again in a heartbeat. The problem with it simply that you're stuck with it. You have no choice but to use it... and, its not what I would call inexpensive.
Wolf, as you mentioned, doesn't come with an ignition system. However it can be either configured or adapted to work with almost anything under the sun, including CDI.
For $90, I built this COP ignition system, directly driven by Wolf...
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... and there are virtually endless alternative options as well.
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I imagine my gear drive would preclude using even the J & S Safeguard system.
*Maybe*.
My guess is that is a frequency range that the Safeguard is able to ignore. Thats really a qestion for John (J&S). If you find out, please let us know.
Here's a bit of trivia... I was talking to Ross Farnham (owner of SDS EFI) a few months ago... not one of his personal turbo vehicles uses a knock sensor. In his eyes, its a crutch... a band-aid for poor tuning. I'm not suggesting I entirely agree with him... but it is valid, to a point.
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I dont have as much as BRAAP although...
Nobody has as much crap as BRAAP
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So what kind of toothed trigger wheels will wolf work with?
Wolf is configurable for a LARGE number of trigger configurations... it has to be to support 'Plug N Play'.
Would is happen to work with a 135 tooth flywheel trigger and a single cam sinc? Thats the factory setup on my audi 5 cylinder.
I believe the technical answer is yes... However, I wouldn't run it that way. The cam sync. is only there for 'reference'. In other words, the actual timing comes from the crank sensor (when used in this mode, meaning Ref. + Sync.). If the Audi is anything like some Porches and BMW's, tooth erosion causes inconsistencies.
If not I would image it works with 60-2 trigger wheels.
It does... and another popular choice is the 36-1.
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One thing that I don't see listed with the WOLF is a cylinder by cylinder ping/knock retard. Is it hiding under another name?
No... not hiding. It doesn't exist. Not many systems contain that feature. The ones that do, are generally very limited. The problem is most (performance) engines are very noisy and make different noises under different circumstances. Generic knock systems will frequently 'overreact'.
The most elegant solution (I have found) is the J&S Safeguard. It interfaces beautifully with Wolf. Its 'smart' in that it listens only at predetermined times, loads, and RPM, so it knows WHICH cylinder is knocking with usable accuracy. It then has the ability to selectively trim the timing on a cylinder per cylinder basis, resulting in a quasi-custom timing map for each cylinder. Coupled with some of the best ignitors money can buy, makes for a sweet set-up. Its virtually an engine management system all on its own.
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From what I've seen, the more radical turbo engines (meaning primarily 4 valve, high RPM, high specific output) have been using some overlap. I suspect one of the things you gain is being able to blow out the clearance volume... otherwise, you end up with a chamber full of leftover 'exhuast'.
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.... well any advice would be great as well!
Since you asked... if you make it easier to understand your writing, more people will help, including me.
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Cpt.,
Its not easy to get the NA EFI to work properly in a turbo application. Obviously, I'm making an assumption that that is your intentions. If you're asking from a mechanical pespective, yes it can be done that way. Depending on who you ask, it may be less than 'ideal', however. A modest motor, using premium fuel and an appropriate intercooler would probably be an overall improvement as the higher compression (relative to a stock ZXT) would reduce lag a bit. The higher ring lands are a step backward, but if the car is used for sprints (as opposed to extended use), I suspect you'd be fine.
You'd be wise getting your hands on a 280ZXT EFI system, providing your goal is modest power. If your ultimate or long-term goals include high power levels, I'd recommend an aftermarket EFI system.
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Brad, let me read more about it and then we can decide. As Paul indicated, they make a V500 version now.
Hi Pete,
Here are some spec's to chew on...
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If you have any questions feel free to PM me.
From my experience, the Wolf systems give you easier tuning, and better drivability. Even my old version 3.0 unit still works like a charm.
Agreed. I think this is Wolfs 'specialty'... easy to use and impressive drivability.
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That reminds me. I've been meaning to tell you something... I don't like you.
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Don't be like that Kat... its probably only 4.5 lbs
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knowledge is power!
...well then, that makes me powerless
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Somebody on zcar.com said it wouldn't work
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But theres no way to setup the j30 coil packs, and use that setup?
The J30 coils wouldn't be the most elegant solution.... at least in unmodified form. They are 'tall' to reach down into the head.
As Braap mentioned, COP with MS is not well documented... better be willing to commit some time.
One more thing where is the crank trigger wheel in the fords?
On the nose of the crank.
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Anyway I posted about this project on Z***.com and the thread got promptly deleted...Oh well.
Unbelievable
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MiKelly is right.
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I'll sell this manifold and TB for $400...
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Majority of work done by Braap. Accepts stock style injectors. Ready to polish or paint.
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As a couple of you mentioned, a dyno sheet doesn't show the whole picture. A 50hp car can be faster than a 100hp car, even at the same weight. The WAY it makes its power is more important than the peak. And, HOW it functions with the rest of the car is equally important.
It does however, if taken in the right context, contain useful information. A dyno report shouldn't be completely discounted, just looked at in proper perspective.
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But on race day, when I have a problem, I dont have to have a laptop and a degree in engineering to fix it. Just a plug, a wire, some ductape and maybe a part or 2 I 'borrowed" from the tow truck
The older I get, the more I appreciate the 'old school' way
. This topic has been beat to death, I know. The ONLY reason I'm opening my big mouth is becuse the title of this thread is "brutal honesty". I really feel its in how you look at it. Its simply your perspective. Your tools are just 'older' than mine. You might use a vacuum guage, whereas I might take a peek at the MAP sensor readings. The result is similar... just different 'tools'. Not right or wrong, better or worse... just different.
In the end, you've got to use what skills you've got, right?
By the way, I have no engineering degree and, I'll bet, I'm no smarter than you
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I have those crappy DGV carbs and about 3 or 4 people tell me to stop trying with them and get SU's or go fuel injected.
Add me to the list.
If SU's :Would it be worth the money to go with Ztherapy SU's or get some off ebay and have the guy rebuild them for me?
I have not personally used Ztherapy's carbs... but his reputation is hard to beat. I wouldn't hestitate to use Steves carbs.
If FI: what's a good setup?
There are a number of choices... with advantages and disadvantages. You'll get a more useful answer if you share your goals with the car. Fill us in?
The Craziest Looking Thing I've Ever Built
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
Time machine?