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RTz

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    Other Options

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    What other options do we have vs the megasquirt systems.

    I know I came from rx7s and we use haltechs and some others. Why are megasquirts the comp of choice of the Z and what other options are there when stock wont cut it.

     

    Here are a few for you to research (there are more)...

     

    Wolf3D

    Motec

    Autronic

    Haltech

    SDS

    Electromotive

    VEMS

    Pectel

     

    My personal choice is Wolf3D. In my opinion, it has the best combination of flexibility, power, ease, and price. Hence, I sell them.

     

    Spec. sheet for Version 5... http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html?action=set_currency&currency=USD

    Help with engine selection: F/I versus N/A

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    You don't need a wideband to tune it either. Yes a wideband will let you tune for max power but you can tune adequately with a narrowband sensor.

    Cruise can be stoich or a bit leaner, and just run it a bit rich everywhere else and then just tune it over a longer period until you get max power, just like you used to do with carbs.

     

    This approach is risky at best. There are probably a few, very experienced old timers that could get away with this ('cept they wouldn't bother with a narrow-band either). However, for most of us, its not the safest nor the most efficient path.

    Caprice Swap

    in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board

    Posted

    FAIK the only way to tell the difference is to look at the casting numbers, because externally, the L99 and the LT1 were identical.

     

    Another way to tell is by the underhood sticker. I believe you'll find it on the upper core support (above the radiator) in that car.

     

    As far as the swap goes, I think its a good choice if you're on a strict budget.

    Injector types and high HP/displacement.

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    When he was starting the runs and doing low load maps, the he had the idle at 14.7:1, and the L-Engine doesn't like that at all I had him drop the mix to 13/13.5:1, and the idle smoothed right out.

     

     

    I can back this up. Of any of the L-powered cars I've messed with, they don't like a 14.7 idle. I typically find best idle between 13 and 13.3.

    HybridZ vs contemporary cars: RE: How Fast, really?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    We’re talking hobby-cars here. With exquisitely honed skills you can indeed add the climate control and other creature comforts, the sound deadening and so forth, but for the vast majority of hobbyists this is impossible. For most of us the daily reliability and user-friendliness of our cars is limited more by our own skills than by the concept itself. Nevertheless, upgrading a 35 year old shell to modern all-around standards just does not sound like a wise undertaking, even for professional hot-rod shops charging by the hour.

     

    The consensus, I’d venture to say, would be that a V8 Z is a good value for raw performance, but it should be regarded as a lighter, better-handling muscle car - and not as an apples-to-apples competitor to an E90 M3. Are there 1967 Camaros with great highway manners and a user-friendly passenger compartment? Yes, but they are very few, cost $100K, and probably don’t exactly go 10’s at the strip. Instead compare a $15K hot-rodded Z (V8 or turbo L6) to a $15K or even $30K hot rodded first-generation Camaro. Almost certainly the Z will out-accelerate, out-handle and out-brake the Camaro.

     

    After doing my swap I realized that much of the frustration with the care and feeding of these cars isn’t with the swap itself, but with a high performance old-school engine in general. So again, it’s like a muscle car, but with a lower price tag, sleeker body and 800 lbs less weight.

     

    From personal experience... my car is in a state of deplorable lack of tune, and even so, at least going by peronal perception, the acceleration is incomparably greater than in any car in which I've been driver or passenger. This includes several stock or lightly-modded C5 Corvettes and a lightly modded E36 M3. Of course, performance under rigorously enforced conditions such as road racing on a track would probably be abyssmal, given the shoddy suspension, spongy brakes and 15 year old crusty-bread tires. But that is more the fault of the owner than of the car.

     

    I'd have to agree with the majority of Michaels thoughts. The Z is a good 'canvas'. Reading between the lines... YOU are the painter. YOU are the creator. YOU have to do the work. YOU have to spend 116 hours to figure out which sound deadening material provides the desired effect, without the weight penalty, because you know, if you gain much weight, you may as well have bought a heavy car that will survive (more importantly, you'll survive) a sizable impact. Were talking about ONE issue among hundreds.

     

    The cars that are done WELL (in my opinion) are done by people that have literally built a car from scratch. They have thought about the details. THIS is where its at. Anybody can spend money on catalog parts. Anybody can fit them to any car.

     

    The people that assemble a car worth driving are ARTISTS.

     

    If you're into determination, education, expression, and 'The Experience', then a "Hybrid Z" is justifiable.

     

    If you want lap times 'for the dollar' then choose another car.

     

    ...then again, I could be wrong.

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