blake culp

Im not trying to flame you, mainly because you are a junior member and you might not know the in's and out's of this site but if use the Search feature you can find answers to amost any question. Most of the time its quicker to search than posting a new thread and waiting for people to answer. There are many turbo 240's and almost all of them have put intercoolers in them so you should be able to find pictures and then just copy what they have. I have a zx so i cant tell you exactally what size will work, but you can see in my sig the size IC in my zx. Good Luck

Good looking part and an interesting idea. Im guessing when the flap is closed you are forcing the exhaust through a smaller opening thus increasing the velocity of the exhaust to make the turbo spool faster....is that correct? Also, how do you plan on moving the flap? Keep us updated with results. Blake

The piece looks pretty good. You proabbly already checked for clearance issues but make sure the turbo will clear the steering shaft. I tried to make a spacer almost identical to yours but like mentioned above i was also going to weld a piece of pipe out the bottom for the my external wastegate. Finally gave up on it because i just couldn't get my turbo to clear the steering shaft, but i have a zx. I know 240's have a different steering shaft and more room than a zx. Just a word of caution. Blake

a quick google search and i found this, its basically a cell phone you buy just for tracking your car or other people. 100$ for the phone, 6$ per month, seems there is no annual fee like the service datman is talking about. here is the link http://mologogo.com/site/phonesales

I burnt the clutch once in my nissan tranny, stunk really bad, i drove it around easy for a couple weeks and it seemed to "heal" itself. What i think happened was driving it easy wore off the outer layer of clutch that was burnt/glazed. Now what i really want to know is why you took off from a stop in second?? does first go by so quick its a waste....

not sure why nobody is posting, maybe if you scanned your time slip people could analyze your run better??? Personally i dont know many people who run the 1/8th, but here is my slip from a 1/4. Seems like you ran pretty good, i hear the autos can really launch hard. r/t .515 60' 2.238 330 5.865 1/8 8.736 mph 84.61 1000 11.245 1/4 13.319 mph 108.45

I just got back from the track today for the first time since the major overhaul of my zx. I havnt had a chance to scan all my slips yet but the run down of my best time is r/t .515 60' 2.238 330 5.865 1/8 8.736 mph 84.61 1000 11.245 1/4 13.319 mph 108.45 I ran a few 13.5's and one 13.4 and then the one 13.3 listed above. I was pretty pleased with the motor/turbo/megasquirt, but my clutch was starting to slip from the first pass i made. It obviously wasnt too bad, but i could definately notice it slipping on the second to third and third to fourth shift where it would slowly grab from 6000rpm down to 5200rpm. I really need to work on my launch, i kept bogging it. Not once did i roast my tires on the launch....with a good launch and a new clutch i think 12's are in reach. This was done on the setup listed in my signature running about 190kpa, so thats about 13.5psi of boost by my calculator. The car weighed in at 2800lbs without me, i weigh 155. Also, you all have any clutch recommendations?

I would say it depends on how your stock system is running, if it is running good and you seriously are not looking for more power now or down the road i would keep the stocker. If the stocker is starting to give you problems, you could get a megasquirt installed and running for the price of replacing a few parts on the stock system. With my old turbo system, it would run good one day then like crap the next, which i found to be really annoying. Now it runs reliably and good day after day.

I was also thinking i might get spikes, boost creep shouldnt be a problem because i have absolutely 0 creep right now, and once the solenoid trips and is applying pressure to the presure side of the tial it will allow the same volume of exhaust to bypass the turbo as before the mod, thus no creep. Bloz up- how much is cheap for a profec b spec? does it also have a line to go to the atmosphere side of the wastegate? I guess the reason i cant justify spending so much on an electric boost controller is because my manual one works fine without spiking, just the wastegate in my opinion opens too early which i think adds to the lag. What is really so good about an electronic boost controler, and im not asking to be a dick, i really want to know. I wouldnt mind spending 100-150ish for a electronic boost controler, but all the ones i saw on ebay seemed to be around 250.

I am running a tial extrenal wastegate, and because i have a small exhaust leak around the flange on the pipe side of the wastegate i can hear when it opens. I have the 12 psi spring in it, yet it startes to vent as early as 5-6 psi. Since im not really excited about spending 250$ on an electronic boost controler that will pressure the atmosphere side of the wastegate till the set boost pressure is reached i think i found another solution. Tell me what you think First the only parts i think ill need is the current ball and spring manual boost controller i have on hand, but not using. An adjustable pressure switch, like the ones people use for the 7th cold start injector mod. And then a dual stage boost control solenoid like the ones sold on dawes devices, now three bar racing. I actually have all the parts laying around from previous setup's. So here is the idea, set the adjustable pressure switch to activate at 10psi then run vacume lines from the manifold to the three port solenoid and to the pressure switch. From the three port solenoid to the wastegate atmosphere side and finally the wastegate pressure side. When the pressure is below 10psi the solenoid will send pressure to the atmosphere side of the wastegate holding it completly shut, after 10psi the pressure switch will activate and "switch" the solenoid to release the pressure on the atmosphere side and then apply the pressure to the pressure side of the wastegate, thus venting the excess exhaust and stabalizing the boost at 12psi. I think this could really help by shaving off some turbo lag and increasing low end torque, all for less than 75$. If you wanted to raise boost more put the manual boost controller in and set it to 14psi and the pressure switch to 12psi for example. Think it would work??

Sounds good Len, a bunch of friends are meeting me there with some pretty stout cars. A new gto and i think a 96 cobra, both on the spray, and a stock ls1 firehawk. Sure would be nice to have another z there. BJ- im working on doing just that, it seems like my lc1 is giving me some funny readings and i want to get it straightened out before i start messing around too much.

I did tune it a little, you can see on the third run the i tried to richen up the low end a bit. But really, it was my first time ever to a dyno and i had no idea what to do. Next time i go back ill be more prepaird. Im heading to the track on the 19th, ill scan and post my results from that too.

After looking at my datalogs, the kpa is reading 179-181. which, by my calculation is 11.6-11.8psi. My guage must be off, Guess my actuall pressure is closer to 12psi. My initial goal when doing this build was to get 325 to the wheels, i think with some more tuning and more boost ill get there.

Boost comes on around 2500rpm and is full by 3000rpm.

After talking to the dyno operator we both agreed that by richening the 2500-3500 rpm range to high 12's the torque curve would rise sooner and make more of a balloon shape rather than the convex shape that it is at now, more power under the curve of course means a faster car. So im thinking there is quite a bit of power i can squeeze out there. You all agree? I dataloged all the runs in megatune, so im going to print those off and compare both my dyno graph with the datalog to hopefully squeeze all the powere out of it i can.

I finally made it to they dyno, Im not really sure how i feel about my numbers. Guess they are pretty good for 11psi. This is my first time to ever dyno any car, pretty sure there is more power to be had. Let me know what you think. Also my first time to post an image, hope it works.

Mario did a write up on both the diyautotune and the glens garage kit a while back, if you search im sure you can find it. Pretty sure the verdict was that glens garage was nicer by just a hair, but you have to wait longer to get the kit where diyautotune has more in stock.

When you get a labeled kit, like the ones from diyautotune, megasquirt really isnt that hard to put together. Waxahachie TX, that by any chance in north texas...if its close enough i would help with the install, i live just south of okc.

yeah i know 10-1 is way rich, but hey, im paranoid and i want to make SURE this motor isn't going to go boom. Now that it seems to be running 100% right i will be leaning it out, from searching it seems that around 12.3-1 is the sweet spot, you guys agree? im getting it to the dyno soon, proabbly tomorrow. I found a shop that is 20$ a pull or 100$ an hour whichever turns out to be cheaper, and thats with wideband and tuning. My plugs are gapped at .35. on3go- i would play around with your dwell, try the settings i am using it fixed my problem instanatly. Im running 12psi with plans to turn it up to around 16psi. Assuming no detonation, about how much boost can i run relatively safetly?

I do have a wideband, running the lc1. My ve table is rich about 10-1 under boost, butn im not really comfortable leaning it out yet because im still working all the little bugs out. However after some more searching both on here and msefi.com i decided to try and mess with the dwell settings. On MSnSextra you have the option for fixed duty or dwell controll, i had it on fixed duty with the minimal for hei4 selected. After changing the dwell setting to dwell control and then setting the running dwell to 3.5 and the ms. to .8 it seems to have completly cleared up the miss i had. I am not positive on what dwell is or what it does, am i going to fry anything with these settings?

My car is having a high rpm miss at around 5000rpm. It only does it when i floor it, so if i hold it at half or 3/4 throttle it will rev smooth to redline. I was thinking this was related to boosting , but it will still boost full pressure at 3/4 throttle and still rev smooth. I have tried running different ve maps and still the exact same problem. The plugs are new and i am running the regular 4 prong gm hei. I did a datalog and made it miss and the only thing i saw that looked odd was when it was missing the o2 readings and the duty cycle would fluctuate pretty bad. Also, even though i was positively flooring the car, when it would miss the datalog would flip between 17 and 33 in the engine bit section, which im pretty sure means accel/decell. im going to try and figure out how to post the datalog and my msq. maybe that will shed some light on the problem. Im running MSnSextra set up exactally like the sticky. Any ideas? link to my msq http://www.ultimateuploads.com/file.php?file=cf03e4732e967c8922fbcd68179ce55d

Where did you order your dedicated analog to digital converter ? I have the lc1 too, and the standard af ratio guage i have just doesnt cut it(anything richer than about 13.0-1 it reads full rich) driving around with my laptop and ms running sucks too. For thirty bucks, ill definately build one.

The first listing you posted currently at 51$ is a great deal, im sure it will go for more but anyway. The relay board, wiring harness are both very nice to have because it makes the install much easier, with less running to the store to get random wires, connectors, or relays. The flyback board allows you to run your stock injectors, or 370's by your sig. without resistors. The software is already MSnSExtra which is nice. All you would need is a 4prong gm HEI(20$ at any auto store), and a open element air temp sensor (http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/open-element-sensor-with-connector-p-116.html) The second listing has no relay board so you would need to use new relays or some of your existing ones (i used two new ones and my existing fuel pump relay), and build some kind of fuse block, try your local auto parts store. But it does have the wiring harness, i think, and he said it has the resistors so again you can run your 370 injectors no prob. With this kit also you need the gm 4 prong hei and open element air temp sensor. You will need a laptop and a wideband o2, a wideband is $$$ but there is really no way around it. I am using a lc1 from diyautotune i got for 150. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/innovate-digital-wideband-controller-p-42.html Read moblys sticky four or five times, and if you dont understand a part read it again. I cant say how much help that sticky is, with the sticky and a external M.S. wiring http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm#ew (close to the end of the page) you have all the info you need to install and run MSnS.

I have a 14" electric fan on mine and it sticks out about three inches, as far as IC piping the main thing is a electric fan removes the stock fan shroud , that really frees up a lot of space. Im sure that fan would work good. Blake

Good to know another z owner is getting rid of the stock efi. Its really only going to cause you headaches in the long run when you are looking for high HP. But... if you are computer savy megasquirt will save you a lot of cash (which was very important to me as im still in college). Megasquirt itself has worked perfectly for me, the only problems have come from my wiring and my bad installation of the gm 4 prong hei. To be honest megasquirt has completly exceeded my expectations. But this is not my daily driver and i had a lot of time to research installing megasquirt so like you said time is money and your time is proabbly worth more than mine, just my .02. good luck and keep us updated with the install, hp#'s, 1/4 times, etc. Blake