hoov100
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Everything posted by hoov100
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well, there goes my turbo idea, just cant seem to give up my carbs, even though i know how to tune EFI bettre.....
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gotta love the smog cutoff year in cali. i have a stroker 3.2 sitting at my freinds shop, also have a set of rebuilt tripple webers sitting in a box next to it, add all this, plus a rust free 240z and you get a sweet setup, but i want to go farther then fartin around with a stroker, i want it turbo, i made myself a intake plenum that can withstand 250psi and will bolt on to the carbs, my question.... would i still need the turbo wiring harness if im using the carbs?
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i have an idea we tried on a freinds late model race car, when we first started testing it, he said that the car was geeting light at high speed, so we made an air box that went 1" below the front bumber, and basicly created a giant funnel, then at the bottome of the bumper on the side of the air box, we put some HUGE brake ducts, with all the car was ALOT heavier at higher speeds......could this have been the solution?
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so whay your saying is, that you want to put more air over the car to provide down force. and you want as smooth as possible and less air going under the car? couldnt you direct the air from the air dam through the radiator and back down into the tranny tunnel??
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get some gasket cleaner, then soak the tops of the pistons in it for about a minute, then scrub them like hell for a few minutes, works wonders.
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i wonder if we could squeez an l28et in there? :burnout:
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this car musta been on ebay 4 times so far, i think he just changes the position on the car though.
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there is a factor that you are all forgetting.. how good is the driver? if he cant drive, then you would have no problem, if he can drive then your screwed.
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so wich is the best head for a stock engine w/ flat tops and still can be used with regular unleaded?
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how much for the fuel rail and fittings?
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get a T5 with standard splines, then just swap the bellhousing.
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hmm, maybe i should buy some land out in AZ and register my cars there.
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yea, cali smog sucks, its getting harder and harder, even for stock cars to pass.
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the 25 it is, there is no way in hell im going to put an Sr into a zx, especially with cali. smog.
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i know the RB25 is the better choice, but is it true what i hear about the oiling system?
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screw it, from what i am hearing, im just gonna get a p90 or an n42 and port them out.
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im starting to like the idea of the rb20 because its cheap and plentifull, the 25 costs more, but i have heard the rb25 has a better oiling system, any info, help, whatever you have to give, cant afford a rb26, but i have all the materials/skills, to make/modify the zx to fit.
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i wonder if you could get the same look as that s30 with the s130.
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any chance of getting them in CF without the speaker hump?
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looks nice over there, maybe i should move over there with the z.
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oh, for some ease, i was going to unscrew the factory hood stops and screw in some hood pins.
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for bottom fender supprot i was thinking of using a hood pin where the black dot is.
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the more i look at it the more it looks like i wouldnt be able to do it without removing the bumpers, so i guess i would have to use pins, i was thinking, just welding the gap where the fender meets the hood, then down below where the back of the headlight bucket meets fender, then go right and weld the other side to the hood.
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yep, since im propably going to repaint my hood anyway, i was thinking of just welding all the panels together, grind them down till there smooth, then install about 4-6 hood pins at specific points, the only challenge im going to be face with is getting a mig welder.
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stroke it!