Doug71zt

The WG was set at 7 psi that night - but I had bad boost creep so I was getting out of the throttle at around 4.5K to limit the boost to around 15psi. Not the most efficient way down the track. I hope to knock off about a half second when I get the WG working right. I'm going to get a set of MT slicks also - That should help things out. Screw the drag radials Doug

I crushed the stock FPR on my car to increase the fuel pressure a couple years ago - It was a stop-gap until I could get new injectors, rail, pump and reg. It increases the spring pressure on the diaphram. No accurate way to do it except crush a little, check fuel pressure, then crush a little more. All bets are off with this mod - get a couple FPR's at the pickandpull and go crazy. You crush the top cap between the joint on the case and the top of the can. Hondas and Chev have kits that you can cut off the top of the FPR and clamp the adjuster on the top to get adjustment - don't know if any will fit the Nissan FPR. I guess you could check the diameter of a camaro FPR. I run a Hyundai Accent FPR now - base line is 42 psi. I think that stock Nissan is 36-38psi. Good Luck - Doug

I run a 3.7 LSD in my turbo car with 1.8xx 60' times on drag radials. Here's the rub - my street tires are 25.0" tall and my drag radials (245/50/16) are 25.5" tall to your 24.4". My car (before) with the stock turbo and 3" DP and exhaust would get lots of boost in first. I would recommend a change to the 3.54. I believe it would come out close to the overall ratio that I have in my car. I am going to change over to ET streets or wrinklewalls soon. IMO drag radials are just a stopgap unless you want to run them all the time on the street.

I threw away the dizzy, capped off the hole in the front cover and cut off the drive shaft just above the bearing surface above the drive gear. That is where the shaft diameter gets smaller above the drive gear. Then the end of the shaft that used to run the dizzy isn't in there unsupported on the upper end. Check your Haynes manual and get a good idea of how the oil pump/dizzy shaft works in there Happy conversions - Doug

I've been running an Em3-6F with coilpacks for 3 years now on my L28et - no problems and I'm very happy with the system. The is another guy in my local club running the same system that hangs here - his name is Nigel. Cheers - Doug

Scottie - Thanks for the reassurance - what size is the flapper on your WG?

Very interesting point to ponder - thanks Tim. We'll see how the 1.25" hole works out. May have to go to a stage V wheel on this one. Cheers - Doug

Adjusted the MBC to 15 psi and got a real surprise. It bounces from 15 to 20 about 4500 rpm and starts compressor stalling and chuffing as the computer cuts fuel at 22 psi. I could control it with the throttle when it was wastegated to 7 psi as there was enough time to modulate the throttle but not when it gets wound up to 15. A 1.5 inch flapper valve is on the way. The hole will be bored up to 1.25". That should cure the creep problem as the hole is double the area of the current one.

With the Dawesdevice MBC , the spike is quite small - maybe 1 or 2 PSI. It happens quite fast - I couldn't see it on the gauge but my computer's boost cut was set about 1.5 psi above the WG setting and it spiked to the boost cut a couple times if I really rammed the throttle to it.I don't think its a problem because it isn't sustained and it isn't that big of a spike. Some electronic ricer boost controls don't control as well as a ballcheck valve style manual one. Boost creep is something that happens most often with an internal WG that's too small - It won't bypass enough exhaust flow around the turbine wheel. As the engine RPM climbs, the boost climbs also as the turbine is being overdriven with the WG fully open. Only way to get around this is make the WG bypass hole larger or go to a larger external WG assy. I guess you could go to a higher flow turbine wheel but your spoolup may suffer. Hope this makes it a bit clearer for you. Good luck on your hybrid! - Doug

The TQ curve for a stock turbo engine is pretty flat from about 3.5K to 5K. So- the quickest time down the track for me was shifting at 5K and letting it fall back into the TQ hump. With the dawesdevice or granger boost controller - they don't open the WG until the target boost is reached - it spikes a little bit - not more than 2 psi. But the area under the boost curve - (TQ) is much larger than stock. I think I made about 40 runs with the stock turbo at 17 psi. It didn't blow up but it wasn't going to be there for the long run. Good luck - Doug

How much is your muffler shop going to charge you for a crush bend system? My current exhaust (3") cost me two 90 deg mandel bends and about 10 feet of piping. Magnaflow makes aluminized mandel bends for not a lot of money - imported to Canada they were about 25 USD each. You just cut and mig them together. OK - I built my own downpipe which used 2 90 deg and about a foot of ss pipe. But seriously - if you are looking to push the stock turbo to big boost levels - use minimum of 2.5 mandel or go 3". I ran my stock T3 to about 17-18 PSI (15 PSI at the intake - not sure how many PSI I was loosing through a bad intercooler) and got down the quarter in 12.9. Big fuel pump, SDS and stock injectors - and just a 3" downpipe with a turndown in the tunnel. Pretty loud at WOT. I sumped my stock fuel tank and ran 3/8 line. The sump is pretty simple - a 1.5" long piece of 4" pipe, bottom closed up with sheet steel. Drill a hole in the back, weld a fitting in. Clean out the tank, drill 4 large holes (3/4") in a pattern on the lowest part and weld the sump on the bottom of the tank. I cleaned my tank with Castrol Superclean and welded it up with the MIG. Good luck - keep us posted. Oh yah - BTW - stock T3 max efficiency is from about 3K to 4K RPM on the 2.8L engine. Becomes very inefficient above 5K - I shifted my car at 5K and rode the Torque curve Cheers - Doug

Yup - just a regular diode. Put in in and then test it with an ohm meter. If you have continuity between the terminal and the ground - It's in the wrong way. I don't think I can make it to the track in July - Likely will be back at work - somewhere. Don't think I'm going back to Iraq any time soon. Maybe South America this time out. I do try to make it to the strip at Grand Bend for Test-n-tune on Wed or Fri nights. Email me if you are interested in going out for that. The way my car is making power right now would make it very unpredictable on the road course. Could find myself going off a corner bassackwards. Cheers - Doug

For a cheap MBC that works well - http://www.dawesdevices.com . Works like a charm on the stock turbo. Allows more area under the boost curve than just adjusting the WG rod. It won't allow pressure to the WG diaphram until the adjusted pressure is reached. Not too bad pricewise as it works as well as some electronic jobbies.

Did you mention that you're a member of Zcar.com? That nets you a 10% reduction across the board. I guess that I get a bit of a break with SDS - I've dealt with them for a while now. This is my third software upgrade I just used a normal old 4001 diode on my fast idle - from the terminall to the ground at the sol. Very simple and quick to do. Let me know how it works for you - Doug

To cure that on my car I used a reversed biased diode to ground on the terminal of the fast idle sol. It's the collapsing magnetic field in the solonoid that gives the computer a zorch. If you put a diode from the terminal to ground, it forms a short circuit when you shut off the fast idle - presto - no voltage spike to the computer. I have one on my linelock also. The polarity of the spike from a collapsing magnetic field is opposite in polarity to the input voltage - so the diode conducts nothing until the fast idle is shut off. Ross will send you a diode and a diagram if you let him know you are having trouble with this. Cheers - Doug

Yes - coolant leak got me - and no time to tune the new setup. A new chip is just an email to Ross away. I gave him my setup specs and he had the new chip in the mail the next day. The chips are one-time burnable so you just chuck your old one in the trash. Make sure to use the chip puller they send. They may charge a bit more if you don't have the puller. Talk to you later Doug

I just ran at test-n-tune last night and it was the first time that I had really floored the car with the new turbo (T3 stage3 .63/T04E60 running turbonetics internal WG) With the manual boost controller set at 7PSI - it briefly pauses there while on its way off the end of the gauge (20 psi). Yikes! No knocking or anything but still stock pistons. I had the internal gate bored oversize when the turbo was built. I think its .875". Am I going to have to go external on this turbo or what? The speed it shoots to 20 psi at 4500-5000 rpm makes me think that it needs a whole lot more bypass. I have a new GNX dual port actuator on this thing and everything is working right. 7 PSI and the arm goes full travel. I guess that 3" downpipe and straighthru exhaust means no real backpressure to work against. I ran 12 passes with the wastegate wide open and modulating the throttle. Not too much area under the boost curve like that - but still ran a somewhat consistant 12.7 at 107. My 60ft is around 1.8x with drag radials. Apart from the boost creep - everything worked great. How big can I go with this WG hole? Anyone with personal experience with a similar WG setup? Thanks - Doug

Hi Nigel - It sounds like what was happening with my SDS when I first installed it - the GM sensor would see the valvetrain noise as knock. I would recommend going back to the nissan knock sensor and upgrading your SDS software to Version 11. This version has much better knock filtering and O2 sensor feedback control.Also has a knock indicator display which lets you know when the computer is sensing knock. I'm a lot happier with this version. It cost me 45 CDN to upgrade. I went to 3 BAR map sensoring also . Served me good last night at Grand Bend - Ran a 12.7 at half throttle with the wastegate open. Big boost creep. As they say - Back to the laboratory! Cheers- Doug

The wastegate housing and flapper came from turbonetics but it won't fit the stock Nissan turbine housing. I have Stage 3 ford style T3 turbine housing on my turbo now.

Just got my 240 up and running again with a T3 .63 stage 3/T04E 60trim .60 A/R. I'm running a turbonetics/ford internal wastegate housing with a ported hole and a larger flapper. Mandrel bent SS 3 inch downpipe and exhaust, Magnaflow muffler. No boost creep that I can tell right now. I have a surge/stall sound when I get off the throttle which is new. I have a turbo XS BOV which I may loosen up to blow off a little easier. I got a Bell intercooler (bar and plate) 24x3x8 and made custom tanks. Seems to cool way better than the MkIII supra one that was there before. I'll tell you - at 15 psi this thing pulls HARD now. Seems to have a bit of a traction problem in the first couple gears - doesn't really break traction all together - you can feel the tires scrubbing the asphalt like on my bike. Friday night - can't wait to go to test-n-tune with the drag radials. I'll let you know how it goes. Previous best was 12.9 @ 108 on the stock T3 with an open exhaust.

I'm using a 2+2 240 mm pressure plate from a 280zx and a Z32 N/A clutch and pp in my 240.If you check the listings for the Centerforce clutch - there is only one part number for the clutch in 280zx turbo, Z31 turbo and Z32 N/A. The Z32 twinturbo uses a Skyline style 250 mm clutch. I went with Centerforce DF and wouldn't recommend it. A stock Z31 turbo clutch pressure plate will fit. I don't know about the disc. Alex's recommendation sounds like an economical solution - must must must resurface the flywheel. Good luck - I just did a week of 2 am nights to get my car together for our Ontario Z-Car club drag day and had no time to retune the standalone SDS. So I still missed it. My wife is still talking to me though Cheers - Doug

I just finished my water cooled hybrid installation last night. I went from the port on the thermostat housing to the turbo using 3/8 steel flared brake tubing - brass 90 deg flare to NPT fitting for the turbo. Return goes around the back of the engine to the heater hose junction (240 style) using same line and fittings. Total length of line is 60". I had to machine up a little fitting for the heater hose junction that reduces the size of hose from 5/8 to 3/8 to avoid an ugly pile of hoseclamps and reducers on the side of the engine. Doesn't leak. Did you use gas flare fittings on your setup or brake style fittings? I avoided using flex lines close to the turbo because I was worried about the reliability so close to the hot section. I'm pretty sure that coolant will burn if sprayed on 1000 deg turbine housing. Cheers - Doug

Just finished up my first Z31 ECCS conversion on a L28ET. It ran fine for a couple days - now sometimes it stumbles (ignition). I get a code for the crank angle sensor - are these sensors a problem on Nissan or did I just get a bum one from my donor? It seems to be intermittant - sometimes it just rips and other times stumbles. Thanks - Doug

I certainly didn't mean that to be a control scheme - It's only a suggestion to limit the boost while you get the engine running. Upgrade the injectors ASAP. A couple PSI isn't worth the effort.

Just unhook the swing valve from the actuator and let the wastegate sit wide open. This will limit your boost to a couple pounds. I did this when tuning my EFI first time running.