Doug71zt

Has anyone run a .82 A/R turbine housing on there T3/T04 hybrid? I am running a stage 3 turbine wheel with a .63 and am thinking of trying the larger A/R housing to see how it changes the power delivery on the L28. My new motor is going to run a GT3040R .70 A/R compressor/.82 A/R exhaust Ball Bearing(on order) with an external WG. But for the last gasp for the hybrid this summer, I was wondering how a larger housing would work. Doug

HeHe - Ben - Around here, the're called 'dial-a-boom' But seriously - If you have your wits about you and are paying attention, most damage is preventable. I had some tuning problems with my current turbo (WG problems). When the boost gauge goes off of the end of the scale, get out of the throttle. Quickly. No damage to a stock bottom end though. Standalong EFI is the way to go with turbo. As Drax and others have said - caution and sensibility when tuning. Doug

Hi Guys - I'm not thinking of welding the WG dump tube to the manifold. I'm going to machine a pad on the manifold, machine out a dump hole with a 4 bolt flange and bolt the SS dump tube to the manifold. This will allow me to run the narrow spacer that I have with the turbo, and gives me more room for the compressor discharge tubing to make the 90 deg to the IC. Also, it will probably make the stock manifold flow a little better on the top end as the WG flow will not be exiting the flange, it will be dumping straight down. I've ported as much as the manifold as I can reach (That was a ton of fun) and I think it will flow good enough for what I want out of the L series. Donna - Good to see you back! Doug

Patrols have always been way cool in my book. Right from the L28 powered ones in the 80's. I drive a 4500 over here in Georgia (Republic of, that is) Company truck - nice suspension - right up there with the Land Cruiser for soaking up really bad roads. I had a 2 door SD3.3 diesel in Baghdad last year - I imagine it's dust right about now... Drop the 4.5 in the Z and boost it - Ride the torque curve baby! Doug

One of my favorite spots - burnout box... HEHE - Summer is on the way. Doug

This is good stuff - keep it coming! I'm thinking of machining a pad on the bottom of my cast manifold and mounting the WG dump tube directly to the manifold. This will stand off the WG a couple inches in order to reduce the heat conduction to it. Any problems that you guys forsee with this approach. Maybe even mount it below the exhaust housing of the turbo and straight shot the WG outlet into the downpipe. All it takes is SS tubing, a bandsaw, TIG welder and time, Eh James? Where did you source the SS bellows in you WG tubing? That is a nice piece. Doug

James - Thanks for the quick response. I think the confusion with the 10 bladed GT wheel is because Turbonetics makes a T3 10 blade stage V wheel. I was told that the GT series shaft is metric sizing, so there is no interchange with the T3 CRA. What size of external WG do I need for this set-up? 38mm, 40mm? Thanks - Doug

Did you get piston/valve interferance? Any smashed up sparkplugs from broken valves? If you didn't - you're one lucky guy. The belt replacement isn't too bad, all it takes is a manual, tools and time. It's a good idea to do the waterpump when you're in there. Guaranteed that it will go about a month after you do the belt. Murphy's law. Good luck - Doug

Thanks for the legwork, joel! I didn't really think I was breaking new ground here, but it seems that there are not too many guys running the BB turbos. James - I've been following your RB plenum posts - an RB26 is my next step after the L series' last hurrah in my car. I'd like to get streetable mid - 11's out of the stroker motor I'm building. I'm interested in the GT series because I think that the flow of the compressor better matches the L series than the T04E60 .60A/R that I'm running now. I think that I may be right on the surge margin at lower speeds and airflows, as the response is somewhat variable on small to moderate throttle openings. I'm an helicopter engineer by trade, and I'm pretty sure by the sound of things when I'm running through the twisties, and on and off the throttle, the compressor is loading up and stalling when it's not spooled right up. As my car is somewhat of a do-all compromise machine, I don't want the crazy hit of power at 4.5 K - I am more interested in power that the car can put down. So - I think the .63 would be better for me. The GT35R comes with the T350 - 10 blade wheel - right? What do you suggest for a compressor - Is the .70 A/R too big for me? What trim? I have a Bell 24"x 3" x 6" long IC in the mix with 2.5" piping, similar to Scottie's IC. And lastly - I know - a lot of questions - Would it be reasonable to use this GT turbo on the RB26 when I upgrade? Or is something bigger required? I don't have a problem ditching the twins on that engine. 2X the cost for a turbo upgrade? No thanks. I would like a price if you could spec out what you think I need. Reply with your thoughts on the board for the sake of everyone else, and then PM if you want. Thanks - Doug

I'm thinking of dropping cash on a GT series BB turbo for my L30ET. Is anyone actually running one on their car right now. I'm going external WG off of the manifold, so it will be a T3 flange turbine housing, 4 bolt exit, I'm thinking .82 A/R. Anyone know the boost threshold with the .82 housing? For compressor, I think the T04S housing .70 A/R but not sure of the wheel. Maybe a GT35 or GT40 setup. Looking for solid information and suggestions. Thanks - Doug

Tim - The Z32 TT R230 is 3.69 or 3.7 ratio - the Z32 NA R200V is a 4.08. The R200v NA shafts look the same as the J30 shafts. I haven't compared them to a Z32 TT shaft - yet. I just wanted to post the ratio - so someone shopping for a rear-end doesn't get something they don't want. Cheers - Doug

That's a tough question to answer - there are a couple variables. The Z31 hub adds 19mm - 3/4 inch of offset to a 240Z hub. 280Z hub is different - I believe - It's been years since I ran a 280Z. Are you using a slip-on rotor on the front? That will change the offset of the rim you use. I run a .200" slipon spacer with the Z31 front hub to make the 17X7 38mm offset rims line up on the hub centerline. Now for the rear - what are you running for a rear rotor? The flange thickness will change if you have drums or discs or whatever. I run a 1.75" spacer on my car - but I run 2 piece discs that mount onto my spacer. So - Anywhere between 1.4 - 1.5 will get you in the ballpark. It also depends on the rim offset you are running. Mine are 17x7 with 38mm offset. Z32 rims 16X7.5 with 245/50/16 will fit my car also. Hope this helps you out. Doug

The digital speedo works on frequency, not current flow or voltage. The variable resistor idea won't work. Is you RB tranny an electrical speedo output? If it is cable, just screw the Z31 cable onto the tranny and presto. You may have to change the speedo pinion in the tranny to get the right speedo reading - it depends on your rear end ratio and tire size. No problem. If the RB tranny has an electrical output from a VSS, first try to screw the VSS off of the speedo drive pinion - the later Z31 have this set-up. It is just a VSS that screwed onto a standard speedo drive pinion. Then you can hook up the stock cable. If it is an integral VSS with a reluctor ring on the tranny output shaft and a sensor in the tranny case - just hook it up to the digital dash VSS output wires - you will probably have to take the dash display apart to do this. Chances are - it will drive the speedo with no problems - it may be off a bit, but Nissan is pretty consistant across their vehicle line - there is a fair bit of parts-bin sharing going on - so it may have the same # of pulses per revolution. I'm sorry I cant be more specific, but I haven't seen an RB 25 tranny up close yet. Good luck - let us know what you find. Doug

I don't know the exact limit - I managed to blow the spider gears to bits with a 2.8 W/webers, cam, etc. Of course that was 18 years ago....when that engine was the hot setup. Any serious traction with a big motor could cause problems with the spider gears. A R180 lsd probably wouldn't be bad - as it is probably a 4 pinion unit. Doug

Well - with ARP studs, the felpro gasket will hold up past 25psi - with no pinging. My stock bottom end went there a number of times when I first got my T3/T04E. I had a wastegate problem and massive boost creep. But - I have SDS and 550 cc injectors = lots of fuel. Keep it from pinging and you'll be fine. Doug

I've been offered a new Nissan R200 clutch LSD carrier in a Nissan box. How much is this thing worth on the open market? Thanks - Doug

Jersey - The one-way valve idea won't work because the BOV needs to see boost on the reference line to stay closed under boost and see vacuum when you are off the throttle in order to vent boost. Apart from crushing it to give it a little more spring pressure to stay closed at high vacuum, I think that you're hooped unless you replace it with an adjustable one or recirc it. Sorry buddy. Later - Doug

But if you did it at home with the dremel, you'd miss out on the great conversation you can have with the surgeon as he's slicing and sewing! Congrats on the upcoming new addition and the aquisition of a turbo Z. Both are a source of never ending fun and (occasional) frustration! Cheers - Doug

3 words - Castrol Super Clean - It's a great degreaser that you can get at the auto parts store. Just take the float assy out of the tank to protect it and them hose the inside of the tank down with Super Clean. Slosh it around for a while and then drain and rinse a couple times. There won't be anything left on the metal after that stuff is done with it. Just be careful when using it on aluminum parts. I have done 3 240Z sumps now using this method with no problems. I TIG the sump on - it does a nice job. I also don't cut out the bottom of the tank in a square, I just drill a pattern of large holes with a unibit and weld the sump on. No Worries - Doug

If you are changing out a manual tranny on the stock 260 engine - don't forget to get the flexplate spacer from the same place you get your flexplate. It is stuck on the end of the crank between the crank flange and the flexplate. You need it to put an auto on the L-series. Cheers- doug

Thanks for the info Neil - My diff came out of a 93 Z32 N/A. But it is definitely an R200V. Time to check it out with the Nissan parts people.. Doug

Chris - S_E_A_R_C_H the drivetrain forum. Tons of information on the R230 differential.

In the ashtray with my SDS rich/lean rheostat, and electric cooling fan override switch. Out of sight when closed. As you can tell, I'm a non-smoker (except for tires, that is). Actually, since I turboed the car, I don't drink coffee, fiddle with the stereo, check my look in the mirror or stare at girls on the sidewalk anymore when I'm driving. Go figure. Doug

Neil - I measured the shank of the bolts - 12.94mm. If your carrier has 12.10 mm holes - I think we have a problem. Is your carrier from a 200 or 240 sx instead of a Z32 N/A? Or am I just on cheap crack? Doug

That's an R230 Viscous LSD from a 90-96 Z32 twinturbo. Ratio is 3.7. It can be made to fit the early Z for about $1000 - you can search R230 or just look back about a page in Drivetrain forum. Don't know about the ZX Hope this helps - Doug