Doug71zt

We threw a JY N42 flat-top engine in my friend's car with a stock T3 and a Z31 efi system. It runs great and has good off boost response. No IC- no knocking or pinging. It is running 7 psi right now - going to an IC and 10 psi this winter. It works - just try it.

Jersey - I don't think you will have any creep problem with a 50 trim wheel and a stage 3 wheel even in a TO4E housing. I have the problem with my setup because of the 60 trim and my removal of other system restrictions. I built my turbo for my upcoming 3.05L engine with a big turbo cam and a ported head. It's just a little much for a stock block 2.8. BTW - there is a hybrid for sale on zcar.com classifieds under the parts section - a new listing that looks like it is exactly what you are looking for. $595. Not my listing - don't know the seller - just came across it. http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=6130&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=34& Cheers - Doug

FL327 - I ported the stock exhaust manifold to improve flow. I also went with a 3" mandrel DP and exhaust with a Magnaflow straight-thru. I think that that created some of my boost creep by eliminating other restrictions in the system, so the pressure drop is all across the turbine. Yes I am running a Ford/Turbonetics internal WG. Boost comes on around 2.6-2.8K and it will make 25 psi at around 3-3.2K - I found that out while tuning it. Yo2001- sounds like there is somewhere else in the system that is restricting flow at higher volumes (muffler/manifold/DP/TB/IC/IC piping??) I don't think that you will be topping out your compressor flow anyway.

Allison 250-C20B - why bother? I only makes 370 HP continuous and Redline is 420 HP. A turbo L28 will do that. Some people have too much time on there hands.. They should come and help me finish my basement.

Jersey - I'm going to wade in with my (current) opinion. I have a TO4E .60 a/r 60 trim compressor with a .63 stage III 11 blade turbine in a ford/turbonetics housing. I had massive boost creep problems on it when I first put it on. I had ported the exhaust manifold and made a 3/4" spacer. BTW - you are right on the studs - they don't want to come out of the manifold from the bottom two holes - I had to machine them out and chase the threads. To control the boost creep, I machined the WG hole out to 1.25" and made a 1.5" flapper. That is the biggest you can go with a ford/turbonetics housing. Now my minimum boost level at 6.5K is 14 psi with the WG full open. I don't recommend building up a turbo like this. It is true the boost ramps up nicely with the stage III 11 blade but it drives the compressor too hard. It needs to bypass more exhaust flow. I would hold out for a 10 blade stage III or stage V if you go with the 60 trim or 60-1 in the TO4E housing. The compressor side just moves too much air when driven hard. Way too much turbo for a basically stock engine. I think you would be fine with a smaller compressor and a stage III turbine - say 50 trim - and an IC, bigger injectors, etc,etc... . I think that is what the JWT sport 400 turbo is - anyone with different info please correct me. There you go - Sorry about the long windedness. As always - just my opinion. Good luck - Doug

Just wondering if anyone has used the Nismo external feed oil pump adapter setup for the L series engine. If so - was it worth it in increased oil flow and pressure at low rpm. I'm waiting on a price for it from Nissan. Any thoughts would be helpful. Cheers - Doug

Drax - The spoolup on my turbo is quite good - stock turbo follows the right foot pretty well - this turbo is just a beat behind it. If you're at about 3.2K - there is no lag, below that, just a tick. It's real fun slamming it to the floor at 3K in second gear - one heartbeat and whooosh - no traction and bang - rev limiter. I am interested to see how it works with the 3.0 L I'm building. Should be a little more sedate as there will be more airflow at the same boost pressure. There is an ISKY turbo cam going in at the same time, with a ported head. I ported the stock turbo manifold and I think that that helped the airflow a lot. There was a lot of cast iron on the floor when it was done. As for the turbo - if you are looking for autocross power - maybe a 50 trim compressor with a 10 blade stage III would be the hot ticket. Anyone else got an opinion? Good luck - Doug

Drax - honestly I would look at a stage 5 turbine wheel instead of the stage 3. That would allow more flow with less chance of boost creep.I don't think that spool-up time would change very much. I'll tell you though, the 60 trim seems to be lots big. Another option would be a 60-1 wheel in the same housing. I had to increase the size of the WG hole to 1.25" to lessen the boost creep. Now it will stabilize at 15 psi. It makes a fair bit of power now - enough that there is not a lot of traction available on street tires even with the LSD.

Yeah Jersey - It surprised me also. I was one of those leather-covered wood knobs from the early 80's. Broke the wood right in half. Now there is just a steel insert on the shifter. About 15 years ago I got a bunch of stitches in my knuckles after ramming my fist into the climate controls. I sheared off the roll pin on the shift fork going into 3rd. Now I rivet those with steel rivets. . It proves that I'm getting older, but not any smarter As for the adjustable FPR - I know that there are decent ones around that are reasonably priced. Check out the MSD P/N 2222. I think that Summit has them for around $60. I think that it adjusts to 45 PSI. Don't know if that is enough for you. I'm running a Hyundai fixed pressure one on mine. Laugh if you will but it fit the end of my fuel rail and it runs at 48 psi. Best of all -$10 at the JY. I bought 2 just in case. Got to hand it to SDS for that little tip.

Sorry Kenny - I don't have an exact time for you as I have only had a FP gauge on my car for a couple years. I had a stock injector stick once in a while and cause a backfire on startup. I went with 550cc injectors and haven't had any more backfiring. I know that my rail holds pressure for a couple hours at least. The gauge is at zero after overnight though. Hope this helps - Doug

Does your fuel pressure bleed off quickly after shutdown? Just throwing out ideas here but maybe you have an injector leaking down and filling the intake with fuel. Let us know what you find - I'm a fellow SDS'er Good luck - Doug

Good to hear that I wasn't the only one who had a rough night at the track. Off the street I ran a 12.83 at 111.9 on 17" street tires with a 2.13 60' time. 14 psi boost. Only had two runs all night - a huge number of cars out. Second run was a real mess - tried to launch a little harder, blew away the tires out of the hole, bounced off the rev limiter. Went for 2nd, broke the shift knob in half, missed third 'cause I was busy getting rid of the broken knob in my hand. Timeslip - 14.15@ 107.6. with a 2.5 60' time. Smokin But I did drive it home so it wasn't that bad a night. Ditto the track prep - Test and Tune nights suck because of lots of breakage and junk on the track. I've got to say Jersey - even at 13.12 you're running impressive times for stock ECCS and turbo. I had to hook up SDS to run in the 12's. I think an adjustable FPR is the next step for your car to tune it in a bit but honestly I think you're doing incredible now. Cheers -Doug

Well, I enlarged the WG hole in the housing today to 1.25" with an 1.5" flapper valve on my TO4E 60 trim .60a/r / T3 .63 stage 3 hybrid. It now holds 15 psi at 6500 rpm with the wastegate set to 7.5 psi. Well, an inprovement over the previous .75" hole - the boost went off of the end of the boost gauge at about 4500 rpm. Not a good idea running a compressor this size with a stage 3 wheel. I guess it's time to a stage 5 10 blade. Or make a new internal WG flange that has a better airflow path from the WG flapper. The Ford/ Turbonetics internal WG housing is quite restrictive. Not deep enough to flow well. Drags are Friday night(street tires only - no DR's) . Oh well - back to the drawing board. Cheers - Doug

Sorry - My bad - didn't read all the post. If I had, I would have noticed you already checked the valve seals. Now - I'm kind of stumped.

Hmm - Suddenly burning oil after head rebuild - did the guy forget to put the valve seals in? Take the valve cover off and check for the seals on the stems of the valves (inside the valve springs). Apart from that - nothing else I can think of that would cause all 6 to burn oil. As for the Bosch problems - I can't help - I throw the stock system in the trash when I do a conversion. Good luck - Doug

Sorry Joe - still collecting parts. Have the ISKY turbo cam and valve train, P90 head and 240 rods/ F54 block. Still looking for a good LD28 crank that is close by in Ontario. I am subjecting my current stock block to ever-increasing boost in hopes of finding the limit of the stock pistons. With lots of fuel and no knock - they seem to like 15 psi OK with occasional trips to 25 PSI (Wastegate problem). Pistons sure do look nice in the box though. Did you float your pins or press them in? Good luck - Doug

Tig is way to go on IC piping - no grinding and a lot nicer looking job. TIG is probably faster than MIG also - It is for me when you consider the amount of time it takes to clean up the MIG weld. One pass around the pipe and touch of scotchbrite wheel and its done. I second the opinion on the Muffler shop/ welding shop. Good luck - Doug

You can use your L28ET drive shaft with your L24 dizzy if the block is a 81-82( had an external CAS - Crank angle sensor, on the harmonic balancer). 83's had a different dizzy drive shaft(splined with a small half-moon drive) Any of the older shafts are interchangeable (large half-moon drive). Check and see which shaft is in your engine. BTW All front covers and oil pumps are interchangeable in the L24-L28 range. The oil pump drive end of the 2 shafts are identical. Hope this helps - Doug

I tried the downward facing outlet on my T04E .60a/r /T3 .63 hybrid with a 1" spacer on the exhaust - didn't work. I have it clocked to the stock position now - It does run close the strut tower with a 2.5" mandrel bent IC pipe. I pushed the 2 to 2.5" adapter as far as I could onto the turbo to give myself more room for the IC pipe. I use a Buick GNX dual port actuator which is a lot smaller than the stock WG actuator - It fits well with a small bracket. Good luck - Doug

The R180/CV/adapters from an early 80's maxima are a bolt in for the 240Z. We've had one running around here for years with that set-up in it - but now it's got boost it may not last long...... Cheers- Doug

Sorry - I may have mis-informed you - the Mitsu tranny may be from the Conquest. I'm sure someone with the correct info will chime in. Doug http://www.zcar.com/articles/twheel/4spdauto/ try that link.(found with the search function)

Early 80's Maxima with the L24E had a 4spd auto with lockup TQ converters. Also, I think that the Mitsu Starion used a similar tranny which could be used with a bellhousing change. I know that there are some guys here running 4spd autos. Hope this gives you some direction Doug

Yes they will fit if you have coilovers - I'm not sure if you have stock springs in the back still. My DR's were 245/50/16 which where a little wider than the QTP's. Section width of the QTP's is 9.3" and the tread is 8.0". Should be lots for the Z. They are about $270 Cdn each. Happy launching - Doug

Hey Brad - Hoosier makes Quicktime Pro's in 26x9.5x16. That should get you hooked up. I've got mine on order right now - running them on Z32 rims. That should clear your brakes. What is your 60' right now on Drag Radials? Cheers - Doug