Doug71zt

OK - I spent a little time playing with the Nissan Engine Builder program - Here is what I came up with for a good compromise piston which should work for N/A and Turbo - using LD28 crank/L24 rods/ Bore - 87.5 Stroke-83.0 Pin Height - 33.3mm Piston Dish - 5.0cc At this pin height it ends up .07mm below deck on the L28 block. Here are the compression ratios Gasket N/A(N42 head) Turbo(P90 head) 1mm 9.89:1 8.66:1 1.25mm(stock) 9.66:1 8.49:1 2mm 9.02:1 8.01:1 I'm not going to get into the head discussion today - I'm just trying to work it out so the pistons are usable in both N/A and Turbo. Another alternative is to mill the P90 for N/A - taking off .020" or .5mm gives you a compression rise of .5 to 1. Your questions and comments - please. The $500 neighbourhood sounds pretty good. Ross sounds like quality parts from what I have heard. The other question I have is concerning the pins - I assume they are full-floating - so what has to be done to the rods to live with full floating pins? The other question is what Dia. pins are we going to spec? Any engine gurus with the experience monitoring this post? Cheers - Doug

I can forsee a group buy coming together on this. I'm also looking for forged pistons for a 87.5 bore/LD28 crank/L24 rods at 8.5 to 1 with a P90 head. Anyone up to the task of organizing this?

J260z - If they are six bolt flanges they are tripod type. I used the turbo shafts because of the stronger joints. I would assume that's why Nissan used them in the turbo cars. Now that I have a digital camera - I may be able to get time to do up a tech article soon. A little hard to do right now as I'm in Cyprus right now and the car is in Canada. Let me tell you though - the smoothness of the drivetrain under power is unbelievable compared to ujoints. Cheers - Doug

The Z31 shafts will fit with stock axle stubs - We've got 3 cars in our club running this set-up with no problems for 3 years now. You have to make an adapter for the outboard end of the shaft but it's not rocket science. To avoid the big cost for the adapter - start with the stock Nissan Ujoint adapter - chuck it in the lathe - machine off the flange a little below the OD of the adapter to make a step. Next get a ring burned out of 3/8" steel that fits the od of the CV and the id of the adapter flange - I made mine a press fit and pressed them together. Then weld both inside and outside around the flange. I got rid of the dust cover on the adapter in order to get a good bead around the outside. You can tack it back on after you're done. Chuck it back in the lathe - face the CV flange face and machine out the locating step for the CV. Transfer the CV hole pattern. You're almost there. I trimmed the end of the stub axle and used a 280Zx nut as I have 4130 lower control arms which are adjustable and I didn't want any interference in the CV shaft because my control arms are narrower than stock for camber adjustment. Now for the CV shaft - Take the outer joint off - disassemble it and turn the inner coupler (the star) around - It's offset to the outside in a Z31 which makes the shaft longer. In the earlier cars - you want the shaft shorter. I trimmed the end of the CV shaft outside the snap ring groove to prevent interference with the grease cover for the reason outlined above - I think I left about 1/16 of an inch outside the snap ring groove. Re-assemble outer CV and install. I used 280 stub axles because the splines are bigger and there are more of them. I have done this - Its cheap and it works. If I ever break these CV's - I'll be surprised. Way tough compared to the 280 ZXT joints. Now - about the welded adapters - I have had comments like the weld makes a weak point in the adapter. BS - We all have driveshafts that are welded at both ends - no problems with those. Just make sure its a quality weld. I know I have a slight advantage on most when it comes to doing this because I have access to a machine shop - But total cost on the coversion was about $100 Canadian. Z31 parts are dirt cheap because there is no call for them. Sorry about the length of the post but I wanted to make this known. Good luck - Doug

Yah Jamie - It's going to be a fairly typical hybrid. I'm in Canada, so the turbo is being built in Vancouver to avoid the customs duty.To4E 60 trim wheel, .6 a/r comp., wet housing, .63 a/r turbine housing with stage III, 10 blade turbine wheel. Not sure on a Nissan or Ford housing yet. I think I may build a stainless internal WG housing no matter what so I can put a v-band flange for a 3" exhaust and a large flapper valve and transition area into the exhaust to avoid boost creep. Sort of WRX style - if you've seen those. All I have to do is make the flange that mates to the turbine housing and then build the housing out of flat sheet. Oh, yah - then locate the mounting for the WG flapper arm and on and on.... Another week in the shop. I definitely want the 3" exhaust right from the housing though. Cheers - Doug -If anyone knows if I can buy a housing like this - it may be worth it to me to avoid a big time expenditure on something that I can get off the shelf.

Is there any advantage to going with a ford pattern WG housing - like a bigger outlet for the exhaust flange or a bigger WG hole and flapper. Is anyone running the Ford housing on a 240? Does it cause any clearance problems for the exhaust routing? I'm trying to decide if I should get my stock turbine housing machined for a STG III wheel or get a Ford pattern Turbine housing and WG housing for my hybrid. Thanks Doug

Just a quick question - are all garrett internal T3 wastegate housings the same? Like - can I bolt up a nissan housing to a new garrett turbine housing? Or - are there any housings out there with a larger WG hole and swing valve? Thanks - Doug (Now sitting in Cyprus - waiting for the war to end)

I'm getting close to ordering a new hybrid. I'm set on the TO4E 60 trim compressor but unsure about the turbine wheel. Either a GT stage 3 or 5 is the option. Any feedback from people running either would be helpful. I run the car on the street, track days and the ocasional strip day. I would like to have boost up at around 2.7-3K and max boost right now will be 15PSI. I don't run it past 6-6.5K - no point till I change cams. Let's hear some opinions. I need something to think about now that I'm back at work in good ol' Baghdad. Cheers - Doug

Has anyone had any boost creep problems on their Hybrid turbos on the L28? I'm looking at upgrading to a T3 stage 3 or 5 with a 10 vane turbine driving a T04E compressor - size yet undecided. Maybe a 57 or 60 trim. I'm wondering if I have to port the wastegate bypass whole and increase the size of the flapper with this set up to avoid boost creep or if there will be a problem at all. Anyone that has gone this route or something similar - please let me know if you had any problems. Feel free to post your opinion on the compressor size. I'm running a basically stock L28 with SDS, 52 Lb injectors, p90 and stock compression for now. I upgraded the Supra IC to a garrett core IC which hasn't been run yet. Goal is 15 (cool,dense)psi right now with good response. Not really a drag racer - would rather have linear power output than a peaky engine. A cam upgrade is in the works.Winter sucks in this part of the world. I've been following the T04 discussions closely - now its time to spend the dough. Thanks - Doug

The Z31 ECCS uses the speed sensor as an input to trigger the hot-wire clean for the AFM. No speed sensor-no clean. Sets a code also. That's about all the ECCS uses it for - as far as my research has shown. Cheers - Doug

Wheel hop, eh? I had a big problem with that until I disconnected my rear anti-sway bar before going to the strip. What size of Nittos are you running? I'm using 245/50/16 on Z32 rims on my 240 and so far my best launch is a 1.78sec 60 ft. During the winter I also went coilover and Tokicos, so lots of mods together, hard to tell the benefits of each separately. If you have a rear bar, try taking it out of the equation first. (It's the cheapest thing you can try!)lol Good luck - Doug

Generally you have a squealing noise from the compressor touching the housing because of increased bearing clearance. It machines little bits of aluminum off of the housing and feeds them to your engine. If it gets bad, you will have slow/late boost and/or lower than normal boost. You should see what happens when the compressor gets FOD (Foreign Object Damage). I don't have any pics but it sure grinds up the wheel. I just laugh when I see these $5K turbos attached to $15K engines in Turbo Mag/Sport Compact, etc , with no air filter or even mesh over the inlet of the turbo. Definitly not a street car. Doug

Stock offset on 300ZX is around +35mm. Stock Z32 rims bolt on to a 240Z front spindle with a Z31 hub installed and coilovers. Check out SCCA's website. Rears need a spacer built to compensate for the wheel offset. Mine is about 40mm but I don't have a rotor or brake drum in there so yours will be a little narrower. Check out Ross C's website also. A little search will get you far on this topic - there has been lots of discussion on this. Cheers - Doug

For the ultimate - get a General Electric CT-58 turbine engine from a Sea King (S-61) Sikorsky helicopter. Weighs about 400 lbs total - 2000 HORSEPOWER. That's my day job - helicopter engineer. But seriously, turbines are great for boats - not so great for cars. Huge fuel burn, and not so optimum torque characteristics are a bit of a problem. At 0 rpm, a turbine engine has 0 torque. Not too quick off the line! That's not to mention the huge heat problem. Ah well - reality sucks! Cheers - Doug

TRUE. Change the cover and it bolts right in with the u-joint half shafts. You will have to change the pinion flange too. Cheers - Doug

Hey Stony - That's an interesting way around the problem. How are you going to get the clamp-up on the drive splines without overloading the tapered bearing? Are you going to leave the spacer between the bearings? Thanks for keeping us posted on this - it may be something I'll do if it works out for you. Doug

If its a drag-only car - save some cash and weld up the diff.

If its an R180 - the diff and/or halfshafts / ujoints. If it's an R200 diff, probably the halfshafts and ujoints or a stub axle. Depends on if the stubs are 240 or 280Z. I'd recommend a CV conversion with R200 diff and 280Z halfshafts.

Dodge 2.2 turbo pistons work in this application if you overbore and clean off the tops of the pistons a little to get 0 deck. A friend of mine has this setup on the bench right now, waiting on the car to get finished. Also has a huge fastraxs BB turbo to bolt on to it. Give us till spring and we'll let you know how it works out.

Thanks for the link. There doesn't seem to be any cores listed that would flow enough for the hp I'm thinking of. The griffin 24x6 would be great for 400 hp but not for an RB26. The pricing seems to be good though. Thinking about it, that 24x6 would be killer for a moderate L28ET with a hybrid. I'm going to email them to see if they can supply larger cores from Griffin. Thanks - Doug

Front covers are all the same but you are correct on the drive shaft/gear. The 82/83 turbo uses a different driveshaft for the 'chopperwheel' distributer. If you are converting to this dizzy, (300zx ECU conversion), you need the shaft also. It has splines on the dizzy drive end and a small half-moon in the centre. Hope this helps - Doug

Talked to Spearco today. They recommend a 3.5x18.8x8.4 core which is good for 675HP or 1000cfm. The guy couldn't tell me what pressure drop those #'s were at - guessed .5psi I get the feeling I was talking to the wrong guy. Anyway - cost is $872 complete or $518 for the core only. If anyone wants some of that action - the part # is 2-196. A lot rich for me because that's almost $1700 CDN dollars by the time it gets here. I'll be calling griffin rads and corky back later. Apparently Griffin makes a lot of IC cores used by other companies. Later - Doug

Hey Richard - Do you know the offset on the RX7 wheels? I'm thinking about the Z32 16x7.5 which will fit my car now but I like the weight of the RX7 stuff. That's the wheel that Ross C is running - right? BTW - howdy from Vancouver. I'm at work out here right now. Good to see some Canucks on HybridZ! Cheers - Doug

Very strange - I just looked at your sig. Here's mine 71 240zt 01 Maxima SE(wifes car) 84 Yamaha RZ500 Cheers - Doug

I used the GM sensors in my l28T with SDS but I drilled and tapped my thermostat housing and intake for 3/8 npt. Pretty easy to do. As for wiring lengths - I took string and ran in where my wiring was to go - measured them all and emailed the lenghts to SDS when I ordered. This takes some time but you end up with a custom harness that is tested and looks good too. Good luck with the conversion - I know I'm pretty happy with mine. Later - Doug