Doug71zt

Got ahold of the company that built the turbo - confirmed that it is a Stage 3 wheel. Apparently Garrett doesn't build a Stage 3 10 blade wheel for use in the T3 series. The GT wheel has a shorter shaft that won't fit the center section - only fits the BB cartridge. I guess the 10 blade Stage 3 comes from Turbonetics or ???

Thanks guys - Lockjaw - is your stage 5 wheel a 10 or 11 blade?

I just got my T3/T04E today. Looked it over and noticed that the turbine has 11 blades. I had spec'ed a GT stage 3 10 blade, so I was a little surprised. Took the turbine housing off and measured it. The turbine housing is a Turbonetics Stage 1, P/n 20358-1, .63 A/R. The wheel is an 11 blade, Includer - 2.531" Excluder - 2.220". Is it a stage 1 or 3 wheel?

Thanks to SleeperZ, got my first Z31 Eccs project working last night. Set the initial to 20 deg. Ran it up through the rpm range with my timing light on it. It advances to 36 deg total and then at 4000 rpm, it takes 2 deg out to 34 deg. I'm a little confused as to how it takes timing out under boost as there is no MAP sensor. I guess the RPM vs airflow could give you a rough boost # for a stock engine, but if you increase airflow through cams or porting, this would change everything. Not a very good way to control timing, IMO. I will see what the timing comes out to if we get this thing on the dyno sometime. Cheers Doug

I ran a turbo manifold with the EGR cut off and the webbing removed but the heat shield in place - solved my heat soak vapor lock problems. IMO the webbing just collects BTU's and applies them to the injectors

I guess you could load up the throw-out brg with the clutch when in neutral and see if the noise changes. Just press lightly on the clutch pedal and see if the noise changes. I've rebuilt a couple 5spds that the center countershaft brg was in pieces. One was from my car and you couldn't tell there was a problem with the trans when it was running. I drained the oil and there were ball brgs stuck to the chip plug.

The only shafts that are turning in the trans when its in neutral are the input shaft and the countershaft. Could one of 5 bearings on the 2 shafts. Input shaft has one large ball bearing and one small needle bearing. Countershaft on a 5spd has 3 large ball bearings. All are pretty much the same work to get at - split the trans at the bearing flange. I have found that countershaft bearings pack it in first, usually. I guess you could take the front cover off inside the bell housing it check the input shaft brg and the countershaft front brg easily. Get out your manual and learn what's inside I guess! Good luck - Doug

Nice time - I think you'll find that you can humiliate most things on the street with that kind of timeslip. Good luck on your quest for 12's. Doug

Amen Brother - just got my cam from ISKY today, still waiting for the T3/T04E - Honeywell doesn't feel like making any housings right now.

Hi Initial- The L24 block has different cylinder liners than the L28, therefore not enough meat to go to 89mm. You could bore in .080 oversize probably, but would end up around 2.8L with an LD28 crank. Start with the block with the largest factory bore - L28. If you are going to 3.1L, use a F54 (turbo) block Hope this helps - Doug

Forget the spacer - just use the taller LD28 block. There are people using it on this board which are quite happy with it. Why re-invent the wheel? Cheers - Doug

Sorry JT - Missed that point in your post. The Mopar injectors are 2.5 ohm. Anyone know of a source other than RC for big low imp. injectors in the 92-96 lb/hr range? My other project right now is a 457 cu in B block Mopar with twin TO4 62-1. I really don't want to buy cheap injectors (accel) for this thing.

Yes - the Mopar injectors are 14mm domestic oring. I went with them because of price and availability in Canada. The form tool I made will be used on other projects also.

Ok - The mopar P/N is P5249452. It's a Mopar performance part for the 2.2, part of the Super 60 kit. They flow 52lb/hr at 50 psi, they say. If you can wait, hold off a week or two so I can get the duty cycle numbers for you. I am going to run them at 36-40 psi on my t04E/t3. They take a little bit of work to get in there, but they were so cheap that I couldn't say no. They are a quality injector, made by Siemens. I'm just happy to get rid of the POS stock fuel rail.

The V6 Z31 turbo flywheels will not fit the L6, The clutches interchange, but not the flywheel. Any 240mm flywheel from the Lseries engines will interchange with the 225mm flywheel. I have a 280z 2+2 flywheel in my turbo 240 with a Z31 clutch. Works fine - just don't put a Centerforce DF clutch in there. Not too happy with mine. Cheers - Doug

The oring size is consistant between injectors - 14mm. The hole size is .540-.545 inches with proper oring crush. The top and bottom orings are identical on most injectors. Most oring injectors don't fit the stock manifold. Bosch style injectors which use the flat seal on the tip of the injector work in the manifold. I made a form tool out of a 3/4" centerdrill to drill the oring injector profile in one operation. Works like a charm, the injector tip is right down in the port now. You have to be careful - make sure that no part of the injector is touching the manifold - only the orings. This prevents heat transfer to the injector. The form tool also works on the fuel rail, as the dimensions of the top of the injector are the same. If someone can email me on how to post pics, I can provide pictures of the form tool, and fuel rail. My injectors are Mopar super 60 turbo injectors, 52lb/hr. Cost for six was 190USD from my local dodge dealer. Hope this helps Doug

I need some new plugs for my L28 turbo - I'm wondering what everyone is using. I've heard that one heat range colder works well on higher output turbo engines. How about brand? Thanks - Doug

I have 225/45/17 on 2001 Maxima wheels on my 240. I run Ground Control coilovers. They are a little to tall for my liking but do not rub anywhere. It really depends on your wheel offset - mine is +38mm. My wheels are tucked in the wheel well pretty good. I think that the 235/40/17 might be better because they are about 1/2 inch shorter. Next time I will go with 235/40/17 to get a little more rubber under my car. Hope this helps - Doug

Yes you can use the Z32 wheel with the Z31 hub. I have a set on my 240. The hub is a bolt-on if you are careful getting the wheel brg seal started when you install the hub. You need coilovers or spacers to fit that wheel though. Cheers-doug

If you have knock sensing - set the retard value to 0 and then try it. My em3-6 was doing this when I first got it together. The knock sensor was picking up some vibration and backing down the timing at high rpm. Just remember that you have no knock sense when you run it! Cheers - Doug

z-32 = 1990-1996 300zx z-31 = 1984-1989 300zx The brakes on my car clear a stock z-32 16" wheel which have a big caliper clearance. They also clear 17" 2001 Maxima wheels - which I have on the car. They stock calipers are quieter because they have anti-squeal shims - they also have dust boots on the pistons - but the willwood calipers are pretty easy to rebuild every couple years. My Arizona Z willwood kit needed new front rotors and I converted to 5 lug at the same time. I actually ended up with money in my pocket after converting because someone really wanted my old set-up Happy converting - Doug

I am using Z32 calipers on my 240 with Willwood 12.25" rotors. I made a offset mounting for the caliper with a aluminum billet - I think the offset was around .300". The rotor is mounted to a Z31 hub with a aluminum hat like the Az zcar willwood kit. I did this because I went to 5 lug and was able to sell my Az zcar kit for a good dollar. The Z32 parts were cheap. I have Z32 rear calipers with Willwood rotors 11.75" also - the brakes are very balanced and fade free on the 240. Also a lot quieter on the street than the willwood setup. Someday when my self and my car are in the same hemisphere - I will post pics of all this good stuff.

Joe - Sorry - didn't think about the early L28 blocks. 87mm is OK with me - a loss of 40cc is no big deal. As for the dish and pin height - My thinking was to maintain the same style of combustion chamber as stock on the turbo engines. I was not sure if a flat-top piston would change the flame propagation in the chamber or not. If it results in a major cost reduction in the pistons - I'm willing to try the flat-tops. How much of a cost reduction from normal pricing can we get with 5 sets or more? I guess we should spec wirelock retainers also. Dragonfly - thanks for the reminder on the specifics of floating pins - I remembered reading your post when you first found these problems. Wirelocks are definitely more secure. That's why a like this forum - lots of good first hand information (some of it costly learned) - shared freely Cheers - Doug

:wink:I'm practicing a unusual amount of restraint in not pursuing this further - To4E 60trim .6 a/r with T3 stage III .63 a/r ford pattern is what I'm going to get (for right now). That GT will be a good for the single turbo RB30 that will eventually end up in my engine bay. When I'm at work I receive a per diem for expenses - so if I don't eat - I can spend more money on the Z. Starving in Cyprus - Doug

I found a Garrett GT 35/40R turbo on the ATS site http://www.turbocomponents.com and am interested. Is anyone running a GT series turbo - is it worth the extra cake? I had a look at the compressor map on that turbo and it looks very tempting - but I'm not made of cash. Is this the turbo that Tod K is running on his car? I should have never looked at that sight Doug