Doug71zt

Last weekend - 12.9@110 with em3-6F. Coil packs and 52lb injectors. STOCK TURBO/STOCK INTERALS/12 lbs boost/supra IC/3.7 LSD. Big drag radials and ambient temps in the low 50's. Limiting factor is the turbo and IC. It's starting to get fun at the track. Cheers-Doug

I did a search on this and came up with nada. I am looking for stainless steel valves for my P90. Anyone have a source for a reasonable price. Manley advertises that they will make custom valves for anything - but I haven't priced them yet (gulp)

My surge tank is mounted above the stock 280z efi pump location in my 240. That's in the passenger side rear suspension area above the control arm and forward of the half-shaft. It's an aluminum box which holds a litre of fuel. I have a carb pump at the tank which sucks from the stock p/u and drops it into the top of the surge tank 3/8 line. The efi pump mounted below the surge tank sucks through a 1/2" line and goes to the engine. The return line from the engine goes into the top of the surge tank and the tank return comes out of the top of the surge tank and runs into the drivers side tank vent of the gas tank. I've had no problems with this set-up and the efi pump runs quiet as it has a head of pressure on the inlet. The only problem I can see is in hot climates you may have a problem with fuel getting hot in the surge tank from being looped around the engine and back to the surge tank - But all vapour returns to the tank via the tank return. That's my (rather long) $.02. Cheers - Doug

I have an r200 lsd 3.7 / z31 turbo CV's in my 240 with a l28et. Best 60' time is 1.71 with 245/50/16 Nitto drag radials. No bad noises, or broken parts -yet- when launching at 3500-4000.

My 240 runs 17x7 and 225/45/17 front and rear. That is the widest that you can put on a 7" rim if you go by the tire co's specs for rim width. I think you could squeeze 235/45/17 on a 7" by the looks of my tires. I would echo what BLKMGK says though - It does raise the car not my intended effect - I am going to go to 16" rims for track tires next year. Cheers - Doug

Turbo Technologies is somewhere close to you and from what guys say that I work with here in Vancouver, BC - They are good people. Precious little but I hope it helps - Doug

Sorry - No pics - Not at home right now. My 240 runs 01 maxima 17x7 with 225/45/17 tires. No clearance problems with GC coilovers. Spring rate 200F/225R - a little stiff for my liking but good on the track. Struts sectioned 1.5". Front hub is Z31 five lug with .20' spacer. Rear is re-drilled stubs to 5 on 4.5 and bolt-on 1.7" custom spacer. I run a 245/50/16 Nitto DR on Z32 16x7.5 rims which also fit. The springs on my coilovers are 10' free length and have good clearance on these rims. Cheers - Doug

Stick with the stock size - Nissan made sure that there would be lots of oil up top from the factory. The mains need it more than the cam and lifters. I run the same head and have no problems - I am using new stock valve springs. The turbo oil pump still only runs 10 psi at 750 RPM on my engine with an oil cooler. 2500 RPM when hot is 45 PSI. 4000 RPM is 58 PSI. This is with a calibrated gauge which was verified by a dead weight tester. There is still not a lot of volume out of that pump so I personally wouldn't what to increase volume demand by lowering restrictions to the head. You will just end up lowering your pressure to your mains which will not thank you for it. As always - just my opinion Cheers - Doug

In my book its RPM that kills rod bolts - not boost. The additional stress to the rod is in compression - not tension - when you have more cylinder pressure from boost. Therefore - the rod bolts are not under additional stress if the redline remains the same. If the redline goes up - the rod bolt comes under increased tensile stress trying to slow down the rod/piston from higher speed at the top of the stroke. That's what kills the rod bolts. Just my .02 but why spend money where you don't need to. BTW - Corky Bell says the same thing in MAX BOOST. I run a 240z/l28et/p90a. Stock rod bolts, stock main cap bolts, ARP head studs. No problems and I'm now in the high 12's with a stock turbo. Car is not really set up for drag racing. cheers - Doug

Scott - I'm using early 300zxt front hubs on my 240 with 01 maxima 17" wheels. No problem fitting the hubs - stock wheel brgs and seals. The 240 spindle has a slightly larger dia. where the seal runs but it works - just have to be gentle putting the hub on. On the rear I upgraded to 280 stubs, welded up the stud holes, redrilled to 5 on 4.5 in a mill.DON'T TRY TO REDRILL THE PATTERN ON THE CAR!!! I run custom 1.7" spacers with rotor mounts for willwood 11.75 x .810 rotors and Z32 calipers. The spacers are bolt on with studs pressed into them. No issues with 5000 miles on the setup. My front brakes are custom rotor hats, Willwood 12.25 x 1.25 curved vane rotors, Z32 TT aluminum calipers with custom mounts. I'm very happly with the brakes and wheels. I'm running 225/45/17 Khumo 712's which are a decent street tire but no track tire. Good for hanging the rear end out on 10 lbs boost. If you need plans, etc - send me a PM. Cheers - Doug (OZC member)

Judging by what the front-drive boys blow up - I would have to say the shaft would go first. I blew a u-joint shaft in half in my old Z. Broke at the bottom of the outer u-joint yoke. Tough on brake lines that was. As for brakes - if you are staying 4 bolt rims - check out Ross C. or SCCA (mike) both have lots of brake options. I am running Z32 TT calipers on Willwood rotors at both ends - lots of work - but low cost and the performance is great. They are not too good on a 3600Lb car be awesome on a 2500 Lb car. Cheers - Doug

Check out the next forum down - alt 6 cylinder. Type rb26 into the search function and don't drown in the information. Welcome aboard - Doug

Stony - I'm using 300z turbo CV shafts in my 240ZT with a R200 clutch LSD without shortening the shafts. What I did was disassemble the outer CV joint and turn the spider around(it is offset). This moves the outer joint in and makes the shaft shorter. My adapters were made by machining the stock flange off of the stub axle adapters and pressing a 3/8 inch thick flange ring onto the stock adapter. The flange was drilled and machined to fit the CV pattern, then welded to the stock adapter inside and out. Final process was to machine the weld down and true the face where the CV mounts. The trick to not having to shorten the shafts is to cut off the end of the CV shaft, leaving only 1/8 inch beyond the snap ring groove, and getting 280Z stub shaft nuts(friction lock instead of stake type) and cutting off the ends of the stub shafts which stick out of the nuts. Leave one thread outside the nut and locktite and torque the stub shaft. You should use the late style stub shafts with the HP you are making(280Z) they have bigger splines. I have run this on my l28et which runs high 12s to low 13s for 3 years with 245/50/16 Nitto DR's with no problems. I'm leaving the line at 4500 and hooking up good (1.85-2.00 60'). I don't run a rear anti-sway bar at the strip - it was causing big wheel hop and run about +1 camber to get the contact patch flat when it squats. I made 4130 rear control arms similar to yours and just adjust the rod ends before I go to the strip. Sorry about the length of the post - just thought I'd throw in my .02 Cheers - Doug

Does anyone have any info on the interchangeability between these 5 spds? I am contemplating a RB26 swap and am wondering if the front case of the skyline GTR can be mated up with a Z31 or Z32 transmission. This would save the cost of a GTS-t tranny. There is a post on the engine board with a early z w/ a L series front case and a silvia tranny hybrid. web page This got me thinking. I know you have what I need for sale Stony - and the price is fair - but Alaska is a long way from my location and UPS+heavy box+long distance=financial pain. Thanks - Doug

kg/cm2 is BAR or 1 kg/cm2 is pretty close to 14.5 PSI. So - .4 BAR is about 6 PSI. Sounds like either you have a leak in the line to the boost gauge, or your 300 is about at stock boost. Or your new boost gauge needs a calibration Cheers - Doug

My l28 turbo cam is screwed and I'm looking for an aftermarket replacement. Anyone out there using a crane, web cam, or any other kind? Suggestions welcomed. It's a 240z/l28 turbo, stock turbo(right now), intercooler, big injectors, SDS. Thanks!

An easy way to tell if it reads absolute pressure is to check the reading with the engine off. If it is absolute pressure gauge it will read 1.0 bar or 14.7 psi. If it is reading 0 bar with the engine off, it is a differential gauge like most boost gauges. Hey - why the no show at drag day this year - I'm an OZC member who was looking for some turbo competition this year. They only other turbo car was that 280zx/GNX running in the 9's. Not quite in my league. later - Doug

I run one in my 240/L28et. Oil temp never goes over 180 deg. I've read somewhere that taking 10 deg off your oil temp is as effective as taking 30 deg off you water temp. I converted over to AN fittings and aeroquip hose (one advantage of being an aircraft tech). A worthwhile mod - especially if you plan on running the car on a road course.

I'm running SDS. I cut the oil pump/distributor shaft off above the drive gear and capped the front cover. The shaft has a bearing surface above the drive gear which runs in the front cover - I cut off the rest of the shaft above this point. 2 years and no problems. For a cover, I used 1/8 inch aluminum, cut to the shape of the dist. gasket.

I grenaded the spider gears on a R180 in a N/A 2.8l 240. I got off the track a little bit at track day and when I hit the pavement again, the spider gears blew up. The tires were spinning pretty fast as it was in major oversteer mode. i have an r200 lsd now.

Hey Ron - thanks for the offer. I have SDS on my personal 240zt and am very happy with it. I am currently upgrading to Dodge super 60 injectors that are 52lb/hr along with a larger intercooler and custom rail and FPR. My best time on stock injectors was 13.2 @ 104. This 300Z ecu install is a low-buck option for a friend and I have all the parts required. How much difference did your modified ECU make in your car? Tony (or any others that have done it) - I would like to use the 300z harness and was wondering if there is any problems you encountered installing this harness in a 240?

All you have to to is cover the water pump hole with a flat block-off plate and plumb the pump into the inlet on the side of the block. The pump sits above the alt. and inlet faces fwd to the rad outlet and the pump outlet goes straight in the adapter for the block. It would give you a lot more room to run a 16 inch electric fan. Just my .02

I run a MKIII on my 240 - stock turbo - 10psi-SDS-stock injectors.Best time 13.2 @ 104 with a very high duty cycle (106%) Currently undergoing a injector/pump/intercooler upgrade. The intercooler is good for a stocker - but will be a limiting factor for more than that.

Glad I could help - the nissan manual covers the self-clean process. It turns on for 1 sec to clean the wire (1000 deg C), five seconds after shut-down. It doesn't clean if engine speed didn't exceed 1500 rpm on the run, or if the VSS doesn't exceed 12 mph. Water temp has to be less than 239 deg F and the key has to be OFF. Hope this helps out - Doug

After searching the archives - I still need a little help on the 300z ecu swap onto the l28. Specifically - what sensors and outputs did you eliminate? I have no smog restrictions here in Canada and am trying to make this a simple as possible. Try this - I am keeping the l28 distributor with 300z wheel, FPR , injectors, TB, dropping resistors, air regulator, throttle switch. I am going to use the 300z - CHT, MAF, 02 sensor,detonation sensor. I want to delete the VSS, Fuel temp sensor, idle-up solenoid valve, EGR, AIV, Pressure regulator control valve,Aux air control valve. I am going to switch injector wire #2 and #5 to change from the V6 to L6 firing order and change the fuel pump wiring to eliminate the pump voltage control. I realize that there will be no MAF self clean as there will be no VSS - is this a problem? How is drivablility with this set-up? Thanks in advance - Doug