steve72z

I saw one a couple of months ago in Walnut Creek, Ca. The owner drove past me (10') and pulled into his garage. I have always loved the originals. I have though about buying a kit for years.

That's good, I almost fell out of my chair reading your posts.

I have had my Z for around 12 years now. The first 2-3 years the Z was my only transportation. I kept a can of starting fluid behind the seat, gave myself an extra 15 minutes to warm it up and then went on my way. I drove from Bakersfield to Santa Barbara 5 days a week (~300 MI round trip). I never had many problems with the Z breaking down. I love my Z and can't wait to get it on the road again. New cars are great for the family but theres nothing like blowing the doors off mustangs and camaros/Firebirds with a 6 cylinder.

Excellent choice, I have been using CAD since ~1992 (Release 12). Something to think about is how the skills you learn will benefit you later. When I first took CAD classes I had a desire to go into Architecture. The past 14 years have taken me into the electrical and communications industries. AutoCad has helped me to secure employment with well respected electrical companies. What I am trying to say is I believe you are making an excellent choice due to the number of future prospective employers which may value your AutoCad skills. Good luck

Looks good, Just curious I saw how you attached the lines to the tank. I am assuming the lines shown coming out of the tank are the supply and return lines. did you seal the factory vents leaving only one to vent the tank. Also I am ready to complete the same work right now. Where did you get the weld in bulkheads for the -6 lines into the tank. I am assuming these are a common item but I am not sure exactly what to ask for or where to get them.

Its hard to believe someone would spend money to make a car look like that.

I would be interested in the rear bumper if you dont use it. PM me if you want to sell it. Congrats on the car looks like a killer deal.

I am not an expert but have some knowledge from hanging around a friends paint shop. He specializes in high end muscle car restorations. From what I have seen with cars taken down to bare metal you will need to go over the entire car with a mild acid product such as rust mort or similar. Use a green scouring pad after applying the acid to the body use moderate pressure to clean the surface. This will remove all oils and any surface rust that has started. Rinse the car extremely will with water and dry with compressed air immediatly. This will take some time to get everything completely dry. I have heard of some alkali products that can be used to deactivate the acid but I have never seen it used except in rinsing tanks. Next primer the metal with a high quality rust inhibiting primer. I believe my friend uses Valspar but I am not positive. Don't go cheap either you get what you pay for. Next I believe you should scuff the surface before doing applying any blocking primer. I am assuming any metal work has already been completed or will be prior to primering. One of the best products he uses is Valspar blocking primer 21N and the associated reducer and hardener. You can expect to pay over 100.00 per gallon for the primer, reducer, and hardener. but the primer is very thick and blocks well. The directions say not to use reducer but you will have to in order to thin it enough to get it out of the gun. All products can be found at a good paint shop. Again I am no professional so take the information for what its worth. Good luck.

That was funny MatMan.

Wow that engine looks great, Excellent work. About the fram oil filter: If you take a fram oil filter apart and lay out the filter material and compare it to say a wix filter you will find the fram filters have significantly less filtering capacity. This is true of the air filters as well. At least this was the case about 10 years ago, I don't imagine anything has changed.

Not sure about that product but similar products such as Rust Mort work the same way. They are a mild acid that attacks the rust. A friend of mine does high end muscle car restorations and uses these products in areas where the rust in not bad enough to warrant cutting in a new piece of metal. I have used the products myself several times with good results. The rust will actually turn and stay black. Keep that stuff away from paint though. I used it on my suburban and accidentally got some on the paint, left a nasty stain that I couldnt get out.

I believe the 301 was a short stroked and decked 400 block. This engine was used mainly in the firebirds and was offered as a turbo as well. This engine s not well liked by most pontiac people. If I remember correctly the heads changed between 64 and 65. I have a 64 Tri power GTO and my tri-power will not mate up to the post 65 428 heads I have.

I pulled my toyota work truck into my driveway, ran in the house to get something I forgot, ran back out to the truck and backed it out of the driveway. Only problem was that I forgot to shut the door which hit my gate and bent the door back to the fender. Had to call my boss and give him the bad news. It took years for my boss to stop giving me a hard time.

About 10 years ago I had a Jeep CJ5 with a 304 V8 and a sloppy shifting four speed. I had just changed the carb to an electric choke Edelbrock. On a cold winter morning I went outside to warm up the jeep. I checked the shifter to make sure it was in neutral. I should have checked better. The new electric choke worked great, reved the engine to about 2000 rpm. The jeep was in first gear. I held on to the roll bar and went for a ride down the driveway thru my rought iron fence. I finally stopped when the jeep ran into the back of my new Dodge Ram Quadcab truck I had just purchased. Never do that, my wife still reminds me.

The 326 also had the same block. The head bolt pattern changed between 64 and 65.

Sounds like your bearings might be bad. I just replaced mine. What a pain in the butt. I replaced both sides and if I remember right the total cost was around 130.00 without labor. I had the strut assembly's out of the car, took them to my father in laws show and used his press to seperate everything. If you want some pics private message me and I will send them to you.

I have a 72 240, I had the same problem with the clunk. I thought the movement of the Diff was the problem so I installed a solid mount. This did not solve the problem. I talked to my Z mentor who has since past away, He told me to tighten the two nuts that go thru the Mustache Bar. I had done this previously but obviously did not tighten them enough. When I tightened them again the clunk went away. Just thought I would share my experience, may or may not help you, Good Luck.

I have had good luck going to local hydraulic shops that work on heavy equipment and tow trucks. Many of them cary the pieces or can order them.

You guys have a lot of great ideas. I like the idea uf using the Mikuni's as part of a fuel injection setup but maybe I would be better off selling them and using the money to buy the electronics for the FI. I have a complete NA FI motor out of a ZX on the side of the house. Is the manifold on the non turbo motor a good option to use or should a turbo intake be used, I need to research that idea. Also I have a rebuilt an ported E88 head, a bare N42 head and two good P79 heads. I have read that a non turbo motor can be used in a turbo application if the right head is used in conjuction with a metal gasket. Any ideas? Oh and the L28 engines I have are not Turbo Motors, I wish they were. Tfreer85 If I have some parts you could use let me know as I am willing to sell some in order to finance my project. You can check out the half cage which should be completed tomorrow. I must say it looks very nice and I would like to post the pics but I am not allowed yet.

Thanks for the info, I am leaning toward the turbo setup with the Mikuni's. I have heard tuning the carbs is complicated when the turbo is added. However, from looking thru the archives it looks like it is possible and significant HP can be made with this setup. I supose as an alternative I could sell everything and buy the FI setup.

I am currently working on my 240-Z and plan to have it on the road in approximately two months. My current modifications include a non Turbo L28, 5 speed, R200, Rear Discs, New springs & struts, Half Cage (Just finishing), etc. Anyway, I have accumulated a number of parts for the Z and thought asking advise on what setup to use would be fun and helpful. I have the following: Tripple Mikuni Carbs and Manifold, Cartech manifold W/390 Holley, and a Stock 280Z Turbo setup (Turbo should be rebuilt or upgraded) With a custom Drawthru manifold. The current setup on the car is the Cartech Manifold with the 390 Holley. I have this on the Z in order to easily get the car running again to work out the kinks as everything has been changed since I last drove the car 10 Years ago. What are your oppinions on how I should set up the induction system? I would post some pictures but I guess I am not allowed yet. Can anyone tell me when I can expect to be able to post attachments? Any and all opinions and help would be appreciated.

I would go with the 240Z but then again I am predjudice. The guys on this site can give you way more detail about L28 Engines than I can, but in general the L28 looks just like an L24 which came in the 240Z. Somebody correct me if I am wrong but Datsun associated the 240, 260 and 280 names with the size of their engines. Example: 240Z Engine is 2.4 Liters, 2400 CC etc. The 260 and 280 are larger engines in the same series which followed the 240Z. The twin turbo is not a stock setup as a single turbo is all that was offered on an L series engine. I am new to the site myself so again somebody correct me if I am wrong. A wealth of information can be found on this site by using the search function. Almost any variation of engine and induction system has been discussed on the site. There are some very helpful and knowledgeable people that can help you. Best luck with whatever you choose to build.