Supra510

Wade, Sorry for the delay. You can see a couple of photos at http://www.Fiveoneoh.com in the Shasta 2002 pix link on the bottom row--primer wagon. My car dyno'd at 322 rwhp. Hope to get some more pix and the dyno chart up on a 510 site soon. --Also a couple of photos at http://www.sromagazine.com/gallery/index.php hit Shasta 2002 and go to page 27. Anthony

Yes. You must have fuel pressure to the injectors while the engine is turning over before start up otherwise no fuel--no start. I used an oil pressure switch to turn my pump on (i thought) and off--works for off but I had to,(as stated in an above post) run the hot wire to a relay to run the pump as the starter was turning over. The oil pressure switch alone took too much cranking as it needed to buuld oil pressure before the switch would turn on. Anthony '71 510, 91' Toyota Supra Turbo engine

Used Paypal for e-mail address mike@fonebooth.com for my order. Should have showed up in your Paypal account. Thanks for your work, Anthony

For anyone intereted in the 7m-gte engine from the 87-92 Supra turbo this is a good article and site for info http://www.supras.com/~riemer/gtestory/ Anthony Schwisow 71 510 wagon, 91 Supra Turbo engine (322 rwhp)

You should be able to find a 2jz turbo engine for around 3k + the cost of the 6 speed trans which is not cheap either. Just as with Nissan's the Toyota transmissions can be swapped engine for engine but I'm not sure what other options you can use for a manual trans for that engine. Just put used japanese engines into to google.com or your fave search engine and you'll find vendors that sell the 2jz. As far as the rb26 vs. 2jz the rb26 may be a better engine with more tuning parts but the Toyota motor is no slouch with plenty of 500+ rwhp cars on stock internals. The other thing to consider is parts availability. Any Toyota dealer has gaskets, seals, timing belts, etc for the Supra engine, I doubt many Nissan parts guys even know what an rb26dett is. Anthony

Not that any of this is gospel, just my experience. I have used this on 2 turbine housings and both a Toyota Supra exhaust manifold and a 280zx Turbo manifold. I ground off the rust (very important) and MIG welded with regular mild steel wire. I contacted a welding shop and there is a special wire to use with cast iron but it is very expensive. They said that if the steel wire works, well for lack of better words, it works. I have welded on a steel flange to both mainfolds and a steel wastegate inlet to 2 different turbine housings with no problems or cracking of any kind--The manifolds were at room temp. I have daily driven the car for over 10k miles, driven throught the Nevada desert with 120+ temps and had the car at Thunderhill Raceway with 104+ temps running the car hard and never had a problem with cracking. As with anything no guarentees but it worked for me. Anthony '71 510 wagon---'91 Toyota Supra Turbo engine

Go to VG30.com for info on the kit. The fabricator has had health problems lately so unknown how quickly you can get a kit, but this is the site to get info. Anthony

Grayzee, Go to the I'm Telling You board and look for the post Shelby surprise. The link is on that post. Anthony

If your friend wants to go to alot of trouble and be somewhat unique then he should go with the L-24, however I would not recommend it. This comes from experience as I have had an L-28 Turbo in my 510 wagon and now have a 91 Supra Turbo engine in the same car. If you want any kind of decent weight distribution you will HAVE to cut the firewall back to make room for the engine. You can use L-series engine motor mounts and modify the location of the trans mount and the engine "bolts in." However this is the least of your problems. Be prepared for alot of welding cutting and hacking to get the motor in. I cannot remember for sure but I do not think that this motor will fit without the firewall moving back because the crank pulley will hit the lower front core support, then you get to cut out the upper core support to fit the radiator. This swap is certainly unique. See pix of SSS510's vehicle on this site for a cool l-28 turbo nitrous set up--note his firewall is moved back. I don't know if he has working wipers--I do not due to interference. This is the least of the problems and I would not go to all the trouble for an L-24 which is not that big of a power increase IMHO. The VG30 swap has a kit, the engine is light for a V6 and you only have to perform a very mild firewall massage to fit the manifold. It is a much easier swap, and you get newer technology. It is difficult (impossible?) to fit a turbo VG30 in the 510 due to the turbo interfering with the frame rails without alot of modifications. Micheal Spreadbury's former 510 does have a turbo VG30 but also has no struts, a custom exhaust and a custom front subframe. Unless he has his hear set on a six cylinder he might consider an sr20 or sr20det. Anthony '71 510--91 Supra Turbo 7m-gte engine

That engine is a VG30. The car belongs to Tom Dockery. The engine has been massaged by Rebelo Racing. Very clean install, uses Electromotive Te II for EFI I believe.

I have used the steel brake line with no problems on my efi 510. You can buy it in various lengths and you can buy couplers if the lengths are still too short. The rubber hose used to connect the steel line to the fuel rail and out of the fuel pressure regulator are very short. I have had no problems with this set up.

I have used the Centerforce Dual friction in both the L28 turbo and my current Supra powered 510. Both clutches were around 360.00 to 380.00 and both have worked great. I ran 322rwhp with no problems and the power peak was at redline where slippage could be greatest. This is about the power range you are talking about. Good driveability for everyday use.

I believe the price is for new calipers. It is in a full page add with other new parts not a classified add.

Drax--If you go to Fiveoneoh.net and look in the Shasta 2000 pix you can see some pix. There are several pages so you have to sort through but look for the ugly primer grey wagon with 17 inch wheels. I have cleaned things up a bit since then and after the Shasta meet upcoming (July 6-9) people will post new pix I would guess. A good 510 site for any interested is (no www needed) dimequarterly.tierranet.com You can catch a link to streetracing.org that has some shasta 2000 pix of my car also. Nion--In the past K. Watanabe advertised in Turbo magazine though I have not seen any ads lately. If you want I can sift through some old copies and come up with the number. The price was nothing special though I think it fluctuates with demand as I had called a month before and it was about 100.00 more. They are located in SoCal. The used engine was from Japan with less than 50,000 miles. It comes with the turbo, manifolds, injectors, fuel rail.--No alternator, power steering pump or A/C compressor--none of which I needed. It does not come with the harness and I used a mix of SDS and Electramotive engine management (long story). The trans I used is from an 85 Supra, the generation before the engine--This is the W58 trans and was also used in the n/a version of the 86-92 Supra's as well as in the 6 cylinder version of Lexus products to this day I believe. This is the way to go as the Turbo trans is rather rare and has a funky clutch which is really expensive. My Centerforce dual friction for the W58 was around 300 something--the turbo clutch is over 600.00. I have had no reliability problems with the W58.

You can get Porsche Big Red calipers for $259.00 a piece. There is a vendor in Excellence magazine that sells them for that price. Not cheap but not that outrageous either. As scca pointed out brackets would have to be fabricated.

3/8 inch is ok but might warp during welding (mine did) but if you take it slow and don't weld all at once it should be fine. Re: turbo flanges in general thicker is better so you might consider 1/2 to be safe.

I have a 7m-gte in my 71 510 station wagon and have been happy so far. I bought the engine used from Japan from K. Watanabe for 450.00 + 150.00 shipping. Sold the stock turbo on thepartstrader.com for 150.00. The engine does have a history of headgasket problems but this is related to a faulty factory torque setting for the headbolts. Check out the SONIC or SOGI (Supra Owners Group Int'l) for more info. A retorque to 72 ft lbs instead of the factory 58 seems to solve the problem if no dg has taken place. I removed the head, bought new headbolts and purchased an HKS metal headgasket. The head and block surfaces need to be very smooth for the gasket to seal. I used emery cloth to smooth both surfaces and used Copper Seal gasket compound on the headgasket. I have run up to 16 psi over the course of 4000+ miles with no problems so far. As far as the weight issue it has an iron block so cannot be that light. I had to move my firewall back to fit the engine in with decent weight distribution but I doubt you want to do that on a newer car. Also you have emissions issues on an engine swap involving newer vehicles. The engine itself is pretty much bullet proof save the headgasket issue but the fix for that is rather simple. Many upgrades are available and the price is very hard to beat.

Re: the 7M gte engine.For info go to the Sogi (Supra Owners Group Int'l) or Sonic web pages and check out the tech pages. The reason for headgasket failure seems to be related to the fact that the factory torque specs for the headbolts were not high enough. Because the bolts were not torqued tight enough they would loosen--Read these sites and there are instances of going to pull off the head and finding the bolts hand tight. These sites are full of info and the author of many is Reg Reimer who finished 4th in Car and Drivers One Lap the latest Supra. He has a very good article on swapping the 7m into the previous gen Supra. Basically when buying a used motor a safe bet would be to pull the head and install an HKS metal headgasket. I put this engine into my 71 510 wagon and before installing I pulled the head and put in the HKS gasket. I smoothed the head and block surfaces with emery cloth prior and installed the gasket with copper seal gasket dressing. I ran 16psi at Thunderhill park last summer and have had no problems as of yet. Check out racetep.com to see what they think of this engine--Also Toysport has a very informative website. I had my used engine shipped from K. Watanabe 450.00 + 150 for shipping. I sold the factory turbo for 150.00 and purchased the HKS gasket for about the same. Tough to beat price wise and you can use the W-58 transmision which came in the N/A Supra's from 86-92 and was used in the SC300. The Turbo Supra's trans is harder to find and has a very expensive and weird clutch system. It is not needed. This engine has 24 valves, oil squirters piston cooling and is very strong. Hard to beat for the price and availability

You said there is alot of play when your wheels are off the ground and you shake the wheel. Are your wheel bearings tight?

SORRY ABOUT THE BAD POST--I have a 91 Supra Turbo engine (7m-gte) in my 510 wagon. I bought it from K. Watanabe, a used engine wherehouse in CA. for 450.00 + 150 shipped to my door. Pulled the head off and installed an HKS metal headgasket and have had no problems running up to 16psi (at least for now). The headgasket is around 140.00 + new headbolts for 35 or so. The weak link for this engine is the headgasket but if everything is in order it is a very robust engine. Check out the Sonic website or put supra in your web browser and you'll find much info on this engine. With the right turbo and efi 340+ rwhp withn reason on stock internals. Used engine comes with turbo and manifolds though I did not use the stock turbo and modified the manifolds. Basically I have an engine for under $800 (longblock)that is pretty stout. I could blow up 5 of these and still pay less than I did for a built 280zxt engine which no matter the $ will never have 24valves, oil sqirters for cooling the pistons and 15+ yrs newer technology.

quote: Originally posted by bfrance: Has anyone looked into this? Is it feasible? The motor is a 3.0 liter inline six, and is just about as close as bullet proof as you can get from a 6, imho. I plan on buying one of these Supras once I get my bachelor's in CIS done in like 16 months, but for now, I think this drivetrain would be killer in a z! How does 296 rwhp stock sound?! Any feedback on this is appreciated. Thanks, Ben France