Supra510

I don't think anyone should worry about 200 in hot weather. I have about as good a setup as I can with an aluminum Griffin rad, hood vent, Water Wetter, etc., and going up steep grades the temps will rise to 200. Again, especially with a turbo you are putting alot of heat into the system. Last week in temps over 100 it stayed around 202 just cruising. I'm not worried at all, new cars can run a decent amount hotter. I ran Thunderhill for a few 20 minute sessions in 105 + last week and the highest it every got was 210 (running 16 psi) which I was plenty happy with. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Glad to help. I know it seems like they are trying to give you the lowest amount, and maybe this is the case, but it is difficult for adjusters to find values for older cars because there aren't that many out there. Combine that with modifications and it really can be really difficult. Settling a 2000 Honda Accord is alot easier as there are plenty of examples out there. It sounds like they used the dealer quote method, which is their right to do, however you should also be able to find a car for that amount, which it sounds like you can't do at this point. Your documentation should help your cause. Believe it or not an adjuster's job is to settle claims, not piss people off. The more information you can present in a calm and rational manner the better. What's the saying? You can catch more flies with honey than vineger. You are giving the adjuster documentation he/she can use to go to their supervisor and get more $ for the settlement. The sooner they can settle your claim the sooner it is off the desk. Sounds like this adjuster is too busy for his workload which is pretty common. I've said enough. Good luck, Anthony

Instead of turning this into a hatefest against insurance how about we educate ourselves a little? First link is to the NADA classic car online guide. This gives somewhat of an idea of your vehicles worth. I would expect low retail fits the condition of your vehicle. http://www.nadaguides.com/uv/viewresults.aspx?LI=1-12-1-2031-0-0-0&Lnk=1&wSec=12&wPr=1&wPg=2032 This second link is the state of Washington's fact sheet for Total losses. http://www.insurance.wa.gov/factsheets/factsheet_detail.asp?FctShtRcdNum=47 What this says is there are basically 3 ways for them to settle this 1. They find 2 or more comparable vehicles in your local market and pay you this amount. You should be able to replace your vehicle for the amount of the settlement. If this means they found 2 vehicles and they averaged out to 1250 then that's what is owed. Go buy one. They owe for you to replace the vehicle not for a profit to be made. 2. They can get dealer quotes. Just like it sounds they call up a registered dealer, 2 usually, and get quotes. That is used as the settlement amount. 3. In Washington it is legal to use NADA as a source --see this quote "Any source for determining statistically valid actual cash values within your vehicle’s principally garaged area that meets the following criteria: Primary consideration must be given to the values of vehicles in the zip code where your vehicle was principally garaged. The data base must produce values for at least eighty-five percent of all makes and models for a minimum of fifteen years taking into account the values of all major options for such vehicles. Actual cash values must be based on current data available from the principally garaged area. If comparable vehicles cannot be found within the principally garaged area, the search area may be expanded until comparable vehicles are identified to assure statistical validity. The source must rely upon the actual cash value of comparable vehicles that are currently available or were available in the market place within ninety days from the date of loss. The source must provide a list of the comparable vehicles used to determine the actual cash value. If more than thirty comparable vehicles are used, only thirty must be listed. " What all that means is NADA is ok to use. The bottom line is educate yourself and do what you are doing and come up with examples of your own if possible. You didn't say what kind of documentation they gave you to support the value. Find that out and work from there. Punch zero on the voicemail and you should get someone else, ask for a supervisor if you're having issues contacting the adjuster. Insurance adjusters making a portion of the settlement not paid?. They should only be so lucky. I'll admit I'm not familiar with every company, but no major insurance company operates this way. Let's try to keep this factual. Bottom line is that there is a very clear outline to how the process works and how to determine the value of the vehicle. Obviously we all want as much as possible for our vehicle, and if you can't replace the vehicle for the offer then it is not enough, but if you can, then do it and move on. As far as getting the value + the value of all you've done, this is not going to happen. Any documentation you have will help but do not expect dollar for dollar back on modifications. This is true of virtually any car and with the case of many, even performance cars, aftermarket mods can actually decrease the value of the car. If I put a 4k set of wheels and tires on beater car it doesn't make the car worth 4k. I'm not trying to be harsh here, we all want the best for you and hope you get the most from the settlement, but a little information can go a long way instead of just piling on. Anthony

We have a 2000 M Coupe (240 hp) and yes it is very smooth, makes good power and sounds sweet with the Remus exhaust. It would be cool to see in a Z, I'm sure it would feel and sound good. Maybe those reasons are enough to make it worthwhile, but unless you're using an older six, (good luck finding an M series) it makes zero sense economically. Not that that should stop you . You can easily get more power out of a V-8 swap or swap in a 7M-GTE and upgrade the headgasket, turbo, and intercooler and you can't find and M series that could touch it at 15 psi, especially torque wise. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

If you are on boost alot, especially goint up long grades your temps are bound to go up because you are putting alot of heat into the system. My car cruises at about 180, but temps climb when I go up mountain passes to around 200 or so and most of that is low boost or no boost. On the way back down temps drop almost instantly. Things you could do 1) Water Wetter and use more water than coolant. Water is a better cooling medium than coolant, just boils sooner, freezes earlier, and no corrosion protection. Watter Wetter has an additive that prevents corrosion. 2)Either install a hood vent (if you don't have one) and/or raise the rear of your hood to let hot air out. 3) Get a better radiator. You can get aluminum radiators at Summit for under 200 that will work fine. 4) Oil cooler wouldn't hurt if you don't have one, but I would concentrate on the cooling system first. 210-220 isn't that big a deal, though I agree it's a little stressful to look at. At track days where ambient temps are 105+ I am able to keep coolant temps under 215 with my set up and that's with full boost many times over a 20 minute period. I did about everything I could to keep things cool in my car. You can check out the link. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

When I bought my 510 it ran like a pig. The timing chain was off a tooth or two. I fixed it and it ran great. Anthony

I had Eric Vaughn widen my wheels, but it was around 250 a wheel then. I think Wheels America may do it, and I know there is some place in Michigan or around there that does it. They can only add backspacing, not any to the lip. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

That's great work. Very clean. I think the 7m-gte is a steal. They are dirt cheap used and the headgasket fix is simple. I had a built up L28t in my 510 before my 7m and even with increased displacement and a professionally ported head the stock 7m performed better with everything else the same. Same turbo, intercooler, ignition, fuel etc. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

I wouldn't worry about rust inside the tube. I've had steel tubing for 5+ years with no rust at all on the inside. Turbo's will leave a slight oil residue in the intake even if they are in good shape. I'm not talking about anything that would drip, just a residue. This is plenty to keep any rust off the inside of the pipe. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra turbo engine (357 rwhp) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663

I'm not sure of the number of blades, I will have to check. I agree that the .69 spools fine. Anymore power any lower and I just spin the tires anyway. With a torque peak at around 3750 it makes for a flexible engine especially for track days and autocross. My new turbo has the .70 housing and I stuck with the O-trim exhaust wheel. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra turbo engine (357 rwhp) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663

I have a T04 with an O-trim exhaust wheel, .69 housing and a .60 a/r compressor housing with a compressor wheel one step smaller than a 60-1 which I believe makes it a 57 trim but I'm unsure. At 14 psi and too rich I made 327 rwhp with my 3.0 Supra engine. Better tune and a few more psi made 357 rwhp. This seems to be in the range you want with a similar sized engine. My peak torque was at 3750 rpm. You can see the 327 rwhp sheet at http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/dyno/7mgte-510-wagn.gif A .58 housing would give you faster spool. The only issue is converting to a T4 flange. I used to have an L28T in this car and I just welded a T4 flange to the stock manifold with a MIG welder. I know people sometimes have concerns about this but it worked fine for me. I initially had a shop try to Tig weld steel to this manifold and it cracked all 3 times they attempted it. I finally gave up and MIG'd it myself and it lasted for thousands of miles and never cracked. I did the same thing with my Supra manifold and have had that manifold for over 5 years, almost 10 track days, many autocrosses and thousands of miles with no issues. Point is that to convert to a T4 flange was not a big deal for me. I upgraded to a larger T4 as I was reaching the limits of efficiency for this turbo but it sounds like one that meets your wants/needs. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra turbo engine (357 rwhp) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663

I would stay away from TEP and that price for a non ball bearing turbo is not that great. I just received my turbo from cheapturbo.com and it is just what I ordered and arrived in a timely fashion. They responded immediately to my emails. I dealt with Ken. Too bad you live in Norway or you could just call. They have several choices that would save you hundreds over TEP. http://www.innovativeturbo.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/0097.2.4995118034711958761 also has some turbo's that are t3 that would be applicable and are 850.00 still saving you money. I have not dealt with Innovative but they have a good reputation. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra Turbo engine (357 rwhp) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663

I would echo what has been said of TEP. Long delays, then when I received my trigger wheel mounted on a stock pulley it was in the wrong place so the teeth did not line up in the correct place with respect to the sensor. I had to drill and retap the pulley so that everything would line up. I'll leave it at that but needless to say I would not purchase anything from them. I have purchased all subsequent Electramotive stuff from these guys http://www.lola332.com/ They specialize in Pantera's but have been really helpful with any questions and ship right away. I think one of them used to own a 280zx Turbo. Also you might look into http://www.sdsefi.com Really user friendly and good service. I had an issue with a unit I bought in 1997 (turned out it was not the unit) and they upgraded it free to a newer version. Hard to beat that. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra Turbo engine (357 rwhp) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663

I have 1 1/8 inch adapters in front and I have had no issues. With my adapters the studs were pushed in from the rear just like OEM thru the back of the hub. Once you have the wheel bolted to the adapter there is no way for the adapter to come off the hub because the mounting face of the wheel keeps the adapter nuts from ever coming all the way off even if they got loose, which they won't if you torque them properly. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra Turbo engine (357 rwhp) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663

Thanks again. I'm happy with the way the flares came out. I ordered them hoping they would work. It was nice not worrying about screwing up the paint when I installed them however. I may paint it at some point but everytime I think about doing that I change or modify something mechanically that takes all my cash. Next on the list is a rear suspension modification. Either a Ford 8.8 solid rear axle or an IRS set up based off of Ford T-Bird components. Willl make for a winter project I hope. At least I can cross off wheels and tires from my list. I don't imagine I will upgrade these anytime soon. I'm hoping to do my first track day since the changes in early October. It will be interesting to see how it affects lap times. My autocross times were quite a bit better. Anthony, '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra Turbo engine (327 rwhp)

Silicon hose will work fine. If it's really close to the exhaust manifold and that is your worry then wrap it in Thermotec heat shield. I would not go to the trouble of welding that. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra Turbo engine (327 rwhp)

Thanks. You can still open the doors. I positioned the flare on the car and marked everything. Then I cut the 1/4, wheelhouse and a bit of the door. You don't actually have to cut into the main shell of the door, just where the skin and shell meet near the edge ( I cut too much the first time). I welded the wheelhouse back to the 1/4, and welded the edge of the door to reattach the skin and shell. Then I riveted the flare on and cut it afterwards at the door line. Doors open like they always have. Since the rear ZG's are so symetrical I think you could use them on about any car. The great thing the tires don't rub at all, even loaded down. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra Turbo engine (327 rwhp)

Thanks guys. The swap meant moving the firewall, enlarging the trans tunnel, motor mounts, trans mount, custom intake as the oem is too large to fit in the car and a hundred other things I'd rather forget. Engine would fit much better in a Z for obvious reasons. The engine is dirt cheap and I can't argue with the RWHP at 14psi. I can run a track day at Thunderhill with 108 degree temps at 16 psi on pump gas, so I'm pretty happy with the set up. I do have Aquamist water injection which helps with that. Re: the 18's 2 reasons 1) I like them 2) You can't get near the width with 17's without the height of the tire getting crazy. The rears on this car are the same height as the 245/40/17's I had on previously, the fronts are only a little taller. I needed/wanted more traction and the only way to get more meat and fit over the brakes was this way. They are a riducuous +5 upgrade from the stock 13's. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra Turbo enging (327 rwhp)

This is a link to my 510 wagon with a few Z, Toyota, Corvette, and Viper parts. The wheels are 18x8.5 in front with 255/35/18's and the rears are 18x10 with 285/30/18's. I used ZG flares from Classic Datsun. The rears work really well, fronts barely rub sometimes during hard cornering. Struts are 280zx. Link has more info on the car. http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/674663 Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra Turbo engine (327 rwhp)

Thanks for the replys. The shouldered bolt method does look the best, but last night I welded the nut and tightened the bolt more. Drove it and problem gone. It's nice to be able to drive without the noise. If I run into more problems I'll persue the shouldered bolt method. Thanks again, Anthony

I converted the rear of my 510 wagon to use Koni coilover swhich have Heim joints. I welded 2 tabs which the shock mounts go in between then a bolt through 1 tab, into the Heim joint, out the other tab and then the nut to tighten the bolt. The bolts are 1/2 inch and fit as tightly as anything I can find in the Heim joint. I searched and found similar problems, mostly with strut nuts being loose or camber plates, but this is a bit different. As described in these other posts it sounds like a hammer hitting the car over smaller bumps, e.g expansion joints, railroad tracks etc. Do I need to weld the nut onto one of the tabs? I drilled the holes in the tabs a little bigger than the bolt (obviously) maybe the bolt is moving in the hole that little bit. Anyway any suggestions would be great. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra Turbo engine (327 rwhp)

Jon, Greg tech'd my car at Shast this year. I guess they were having some alternator problems but ran on battery power for the autocross. Hope they were able to fix the problem. Re: the 280zx Rears: I know of only one person who converted to 280zx in the rear and it was not simple. I would forget this option. You can have the rear crossmember slotted to allow for adustments if necessary. You should be able to use any rear kit for the 240z (brake kit) on the 510 sedan as I believe the backing plate holes are the same. I used Ross Corrigans 240z rear brakes on my wagon however as it is a solid rear axle some mods had to be made. Fronts: Confirming all of the above. You cannot use the 280zx spring. You could use the 240z spring and seat but unless you have spare 240z struts and springs sitting around you would be better off going to coilovers while you have the suspension out and are cutting anyway. Rear brake kit http://www.modern-motorsports.com Front coilover kit http://www.daveturner.com/ http://www.ground-control.com Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra Turbo engine (327 rwhp)

Drax, That was a fun track day. I have video of that pass. I think that VW Golf inserts are shorter than the ZX stuff. I have 18's on it now and raised the ride height accordingly. I have no travel issues with the ZX length but some might with a lower ride height. Here is a link to the new wheels (not to hijack this thread). 18x8.5 with 255/35/18 in front, 18x10 rear with 285/30/18 http://www.510garage.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=topn&cat=-37&pos=12 http://www.speedyzx.com/Shasta2004/Day2DSCF0151.jpg Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra engine (327 rwhp)

The fronts bolt to the lower control arms exactly like the 510. If you lower the car you should install bumpsteer spacers at the same time between the bottom of the strut and the control arm. They are only 40 buck a pair or so. The 280zx springs and spring seats are too big. It is a good time to convert to coilovers. If you do that you don't need to section the strut, just cut off the spring seat and weld the collar on for the new coilovers. From what I remember the 280zx strut and 240 strut inserts are the same length. I ordered 240 inserts and thought I had to section the zx strut tubes but the 240 inserts were the same length. I know of only 1 510 that has 280zx control arms in the rear. Not common and not easy from what I know. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra engine (327 rwhp)

http://www.axiswheels.com the MOD wheel comes in 1 piece or 3 piece is a 7 spoke. Unknown about offsets but nothing wrong with adapters other than the weight issue. They are used on Porsches among other cars with no issues. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Supra Turbo engine(327 rwhp)