Supra510

A few more.

Decided to create a new airdam for the 510. I needed something that would be sturdy enough to attach a splitter to. Also I wanted to move the oil cooler and the air-water intercooler heat exchanger down and out from in front of the radiator. The hole on the right is for the air intake and a brake duct (if I need one). Left hole for the aformentioned brake duct. I still have a million welds to go but the shape is there. I will make a splitter to attach for track days. Yes, this whole thing could be a lot lighter, but I need something that can stand up to street use and I didn't want to mess with fiberglass.

Looks great. I used to have a 280zxt motor in my car and I welded a T04 flange and the wastegate flange with a MIG and regular mild steel wire and never had any issues with cracking so you should be safe.

Not to be Captain obvious but it will work if the nozzle/jet has 3/8 npt threads. My Aquamist jets have a metric thread. Right before the throttle body is fine. I've had mine there since I installed the system (6 years) with no issues. Right before the turbo inlet is the no- no as the water can pit the compressor blades over time. Pic of my location for the jet. http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/2/web/674000-674999/674663_44_full.jpg

The R154 is the trans for the Turbo Supra (in the US at least), W58 is the non-turbo ntans. The W58 might last at that power level if you baby it, but it's more fragile than the R154. I don't know what clutch setup you're planning on, but the clutches for the R154 can hold quite a bit more torque than those for the W58 without having to resort to a 4 or 6 puck clutch. The R154 uses a pull type clutch not the more common push type. I have been running the W58 behind my 7m-gte up to a dyno verified 357 rwhp, but that was before the new turbo. My clutch can't hold more than 15 psi at a track day where you have multiple high speed runs within 20 minutes. I refuse to go with the race clutches so I bought an R154 (and flywheel, and driveshaft) so I can have a stronger trans and a stronger clutch.

Found a pic--This is what you need. Link http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=FLT4O3weld&Category_Code=UNIV-GSFL

I have welded mild steel to a turbine housing multiple times with a MIG using regular mild steel wire and never had any issues. I welded a wastegate flange directly to a housing, a schedule 40 mild steel pipe that led to a wastegate, and a slip fit v-band flange to my latest turbo and never experienced any type of cracking. This includes thousands of street miles and multiple track days without any issues. I've also welded mild steel flanges to supposedly cast iron Toyota Supra and 280zxt manifolds and never had an issue. The only issue I ever ran into was when the original fabricator tried to weld mild steel to the 280zxt manifold with a TIG (unk rod) and it cracked 3 times. I then used the MIG and it worked. The flange you need (ed) is a v-band flange that slip fits into the housing on one side (other side is the v-band portion) then you weld it. I can't find a pic, but it is machined and one part fits into that groove around the turbine wheel, the other part butts against the flat portion, then butt weld the them together. http://www.cheapturbo.com has them, though not on thier website. I think they are around 30.00 and are nice, thick machined pieces. They recommended using a special rod to weld, I just MIG'd it and have had no issues over 2 track days and 5000 + miles. I think Mike is who I dealt with, he's very helpful.

http://www.hightempsilicone.com I'm not sure they carry 2.75 inch hose, that's kind of an odd size. Prices and service are good from my experience.

Like Clifton said I'm pretty sure what you are experiencing is coil bind. 8 inch springs at a given rate will bind before 10 inch springs at the same rate. When you get under the there check for marks on the coils where they may be touching, on mine it left a slight grey mark in between each coil. Anthony

The spindle angle in relation to the strut is not the same. The 510 and the 280zx have the same angle, the 240 is different. Anthony

285/30/18's are the widest/shortest tire out there right now. At least that you can find on a regular basis. They are between 24.7 to 24.9 inches depending on the manufacturer. That is equivalent to the a 245/40/17 which is also 24.7 inches tall. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

I have 285/30/18 P Zero Corsa's, (not a Z, but similar weight). I have an LSD and at track days I have pretty good stick coming out of corners in 2nd and if I'm going in a straight line it pretty much stays hooked up in that gear. There are a few places that I can still break loose in 3rd on some high speed corners if I get into it full throttle, but in a straight line I'm fine. I last dyno'd at 357 rwhp, but that was with a smaller turbo. With this set up I think I have around 400 or so and that's what I had at the track the last time out. I can still break loose easily in 1st on boost and you have to modulate the throttle in 2nd if you're not going straight. Still, alot more control than I had with an open diff and 245 street tires. My torque peak is around 3750 rpm's, if you have a V8 with more torque down low results may vary. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Supercharged, turbocharged, 1/4 mile in 10.52 seconds, and he uses it on the roadcourse. The site has a bunch of videos and pix. http://www.hilmersson-racing.com/start.asp?show=ec Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Awesome video's. I can't believe some of the things they used to repair that frame rail. Nothing says structural integrity like a nice hinge. Great work and keep the videos coming. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

About all the info you need here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102858 Re: salvage I don't know what the state law is where you are but in Oregon the insurance company has to present you with actual salvage bids from salvage vendors (wrecking yards typically), not a % of the settlement. Laws vary a bit from state to state. Usually you can find info on how total losses are handled in your state on the internet. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

LS1, LS6. Lighter, more displacement, you can get them all day on Ebay with a 6 speed T56 for under 5k and that includes the computer a lot of the time. If I had to stuff another engine in my 510 it would be this one. From what I've read re: engine weights recently it's lighter than the 7m-gte I have in there now. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Not in the newest Honda's, but for years Civics (probably Preludes and Accords also) had the same type of setup. Plenty of those around at your local U-Pull-it. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Trying to stick weld sheet metal with an arc welder, especially Datsun stuff is pretty much impossible. You'd be better off getting a second job for a month and buying a cheap MIG than messing with an arc welder for this. The problem with the heat is that you will constantly burn through the weld area putting holes where you want a weld. My first welding experience was doing what you're thinking of doing and it was frustrating, ugly, and time consuming to say the least. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

I have the heaviest 510 I know of as well. Unfortunately. Take a wagon over 2400 lbs stock and add engine, brakes, tires, rollbar and that's what you get. I think the glass alone in a wagon adds quite a bit of weight compared to a 2 door. The nice thing is it's still lighter than many many modern sports cars so I don't feel too bad. Re: this car I think it probably weighs around 2200 lbs. I don't know what he has for rears. I know that with my previous rear disks which were 11 inch 300zx units with 240sx calipers I could never get enough rear brake bias to lock the rears or even heat them up that well even with the proportioning valve full to the rear. With the new 8.8 I'm using the stock 11 inch (or so) Crown Vic rotors, the good thing is the piston area on the Ford calipers is quite a bit bigger than the 240sx so I'm using the rears quite a bit. I haven't seen a rotor blue'er than my rears are right now after my track day yesterday. I had brake hop at Thunderhill so I dialed the bias back a little and everything worked well this time around. I don't disagree that on his particular car the brakes are more show than necessity. Some people like big brakes and how they look. If you like the 13 inch wheel look then keep small brakes, but if you have bigger wheels then small brakes look well, small and IMO not that good. Ultimately he didn't build that car to kill everything on the track, so really this whole discussion is a moot point. I think he built it as a very nice street/show car and accomplished that. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Keep in mind my car is a relative pig at 2750 lbs, Coffey's car and a GT4 510 are much, much lighter. Cross drilled rotors are not the best example but I've cracked them even with these rotors and they get hot enough to heat check and turn nice and blue. I'm sure that I could get away with smaller rotors if I wanted to duct them and use race pads, but I don't. 3rd gen Rx-7's have around 11 inch rotors IIRC and weigh about 100 lbs more than me and you won't see many that are tracked regularly that don't upgrade the brakes. Bottom line is that I never worry about my brakes, ever. I'd rather have that feeling than worry about being on the edge. Back on topic I agree that particular car does not NEED those brakes, but there is a lot done to our cars we don't need. Just curious but at what track is a GT4 510 hitting over 133+ mph and having to brake hard? Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

"Then there's the fact that NO 510 needs 13" rotors" I have to repectfully disagree with this. Put some 255 width almost R compound tires, throw in 133+ mph going into PIR's turn one and you'll be glad you had 13 inch brakes (ok, only 12.6 inches). Of course the weight is much more and most every 510 in the world doesn't need them, but it's one of the best upgrades I've ever made. Period. No fade and bigger rotors give more brake torque which made for better modulation on my car, so there are a few advantages. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

I followed a thread on Supraforums about a guy who used all Ebay parts to build his system. His turbo had the 1.15 housing when he bought the kit and he found a seller on Ebay that had .68 housings for 59.00 bucks (IIRC). He bought it and they shipped it right away. Also if it is an actual Master Power turbine housing you shouldn't have any issues. They are are major manufacturer in Brazil. I doubt thier turbine housings will fall apart . Here is a pic of the one he got for 59.00 shipped. http://www.elit3.com/upload.php?file=DSCF49.JPG Here is the phone # to call the vendor directly that was provided in the link 1-(770)-975-8100 Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Rotomaster was bought out, I think by Garrett/Airesearch (sp) now just Garrett. They have the internals of a Garrett. I have one, or at least the compressor housing says Rotomaster. I had it rebuilt a few times (my oil issues, not the turbo's) and they just did it with Garrett parts. If that turbo of yours takes a 3 inch intake hose, that compressor wheel of yours is pretty small. For reference sake mine has the same compressor A/R (.60) but the wheel is a bit bigger, it doesn't neck down nearly as much when it gets to the compressor wheel. I got 357 rwhp on my Supra engine with it before I upgraded. I still have mine sitting on a shelf. I had it rebuilt 2000 miles ago. Just a guess, but they might have been using a pressure relief valve or something like that on the intake side instead of a wastegate. Not the right way to control boost but would work. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

If you care about weight go SR20det. Lighter, all things being equal, = better handling which will help on the autocross course. If you care about anything else go L28t. The added displacement will help you with more torque at lower rpm's which is beneficial in autocross and it's a much simpler swap especially if you don't do your own work. Anthony http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663

Hopefully you have all the parts for the stroker kit and all is well, however if you have not ordered you might look at this thread first. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253869&highlight=flatlander The author is pretty respected in the Supra community and did not have a good experience. Flatlander is the domestic side of IPP and I think they do all the machine work at the same place. I've talked with Phil at Flatlander as well when I was looking for a shortblock and "arrogant *******" as the thread says, is a very apt description. That turbo flows alot however that A/R ratio on the turbine side is too big unless you don't mind a lot of lag. Might work out if you could find a small A/R but you'll have to run high boost to be in the efficiency range of that turbo with your displacement. I got my turbo at http://www.cheapturbo.com and was very happy with the price, product and customer service. I met a guy at the recent Mt. Shasta Datsun meet that purchased from them as well and was also pleased. They have good prices and will take the time to talk with you unlike some places. Anthony '71 510 wagon, '91 Toyota Supra engine http://www.cardomain.com/ride/674663