DevilZeto

Great write up on the dyno tuning... I found a little info as to how each of them operate.. The basic reasons for the difference between a DynoJet and Mustang Dyno, is in part on how the power is calculated, and partially due to the amount of "load" the vehicle "sees" during the pull. DynoJets measure horsepower and derive torque from that. Loaded Dyno's have a load sensor, and actually measure the torque being applied to the drums (it's a little 5volt reference load sensor). Horsepower is then derived from that information. Torque is an actual force (like gravity), where as Horsepower by definition is a derivited of torque (work over time). The load sensor data is then sent to the computer where it takes two constants, vehicle weight and Hp@50mph (aerodynamic coefficient used by the EPA) where the computer then calculates the amount of resistance to be applied to the vehicle (PAU force). For an example of why there's a difference due to load, imagine this. It takes less power (however you measure it) to accelerate the mass of a 2500lb roller from 300rpm to 400rpm in five seconds than accelerating the same roller (2500lbs) with 550lbs of resistance via load cell from 300rpm to 400rpm in the same amount of time (5 seconds). That's why if there's a car that made 425rwhp on a Mustang MD-1100SE dyno, it will be faster than a car that made 425rwhp on a DynoJet. As far as the timing example that somebody brought up, I've found that to be true as well. Sometimes the cars are faster with 1 to 2 degrees less timing than they see on the Dyno. Best was without being at the track is to check the plugs. That's why, no matter how good the dyno is, the opperator, or the tuner is, it will really only get you about 95% there. The last 5% is going to be needed to be done at the track. Because of these reasons, it's like trying to compare apples to oranges. As far as the "10%-15%" difference, we've found that to be untrue. In our tests it doesn't seem to be a constant at all. At 390rwhp on mustang dyno, the same car makes about 405rwhp on a local DynoJet. At 422rwhp on mustang dyno, the same car on the same DynoJet made 458rwhp. I've witnessed cars seeing close to a 80rwhp difference between a Mustang Dyno and a DynoJet at 600rwhp (Mustang MD-1750SE), although I cannot verifiy that with our dyno. More recently, I've found that a 2002 Vortec S/C Z06 that made 550rwhp on our Mustang Dyno, made 645rwhp on a DynoJet over the summer. T the difference is closer to 6-7%, but as you make more power, the difference increases as well. You must remember, Dyno's regardless of the type are tuning tools, and are in no means ment to tell people how fast their car is. Now which one is more "real world" is a totally different question. I like to explain it like this..... If you drive your car in a situation in which you have no mass and you're in a vacuum, so basically if you do intergalatic racing in space, use a DynoJet. If your car sees gravity, and has an aerodynamic coeffecient, and you race on a planet called Earth, then use a Mustang Dyno.

3 inch from downpipe all the way to the muffler.

So i went to a mustang dyno with my slightly modified mustang, its about an hours drive from my home. First run gave out 273 rwhp which i thought wasnt that bad. second pull was 263 with the hood down (my cars carburated and yes it does make a difference if you have a cowl hood) anyway..the thing that got me was that the ownwer of the dyno commented about how a new 2010 ss camaro gave out 292 rwhp...???? That same car he was talking about gave 320 at a dynojet dyno, same mods, same weather, same every thing...... So i got a little curious and decided what the hell ill go to the other dyno right away and see the difference for myself. And guess what 301whp on my car!!! same weather, same temperature, same everything!! but not the same horsepower.

wasnt that richards car?

im going for a full body resto, im doing it bit by bit, but the weather is killing me raining evry single day cant sand blast cant scrape paint its getting quite anoying ,,but im getting there. Also i bought a new Z for the wife, automatic tranny, a/c, everything working beautifully....but im selling it right now, kinda of a bummer for me but i need to get a few things done in the house. Hey call me up sometime so we can meet again..thanks

Looks good!

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It can be done. Although i did some grinding on my manifold so i could get better flow off of it.

We inspected the car carefully, we found it was leaking air thru one of the injector ports in the intake manifold. We fixed the problem, and in the process changed the injectors, the old grand national injectors we were using only gave us 80% of duty cycle with only 8psi. So we installed new MSD injectors and had to tune it agian in the dyno. What im amazed at is that we gave it over 10 consecutvie dyno runs. And the engine didnt even flinch, no heat up, no knock, no nothing. everybody in the dyno was . The Chevy big block guys were like bahh just 273....So we waited till it was their turn in the dyno...they made 3 runs and their motor went boom!...So we hauled there car with ours:shock:

Went to the dyno yesterday. 273.3hp@ 10.2psi 281.3lb of torque I think thats a good improvement:-o!!

Im planning to go step by step. Feel the suspension on the track. Basically get to know the car better before pumping out real HP. im planning to boost her up to around 10Lbs and see what comes out of that. Thanks guys

Car right now is on its testing phase. 189.5hp @ 5.85psi 193.4lb of torque. L28 Stock internals Mazda RX-7 T03/T04 turbo, FMIC Buick Grand National injectors 60mm Throttle SDS ECU Thats pretty much all i can remember right now. Tuninig it to run solo one. Dyno'd in a mustang dyno. What do you think guys? Good numbers?

Found out that i had to input what kinf of map im going to use here is a quick refrence on how to do so if anyone is interested. Setup mode MAP sensor. Unplug hall sensor plug from ECU. Power up the ECU with the programmer plugged in. Momentarily ( ½ second ) short out pins 6 & 7 on the hall plug port on the ECU using a wire or setup tool (provided by SDS ). See drawing below. You will see SETUP TEMPSENSOR in the programmer window. Push the > once, you will see SETUP MAPSENSOR Choose one of the following by pushing the +1 button until the correct sensor is reading in the window. 1 BAR 2 BAR IN ABS 2 BAR 3 BAR TPS 1 BAR METRIC 2 BAR METRIC 3 BAR METRIC Once the correct sensor is reading in the window push the > button 4 times until you see SETUP LOAD MAPVAL in the window. Push the +1 button to load the chosen MAP values in to the computer. Push +10 to exit setup mode

Im running a turbo setup and Ive been using a map sensor from a crane cams ignition box that i had laying around. the car starts and runs great at low rpms. but when the car reaches 5 lbs of boost it shut downs, i checked the sds max boost parameters and its set for 12 lbs. I thought the problem might be that im running a 1 bar map sensor. so i tried a 3 bar, now the car wont start with the 3 bar. but when the car reaches normal running engine temperature and i switch out the 1 bar for the 3 bar then it works like a beauty. anybody know what the problem might be. Thanks

Im using a less expensive unit I bought on ebay about 6 months ago. I have never experienced a problem with it yet. I think i paid 80.00$ shipping included. There the ones with the buy it now option. Good Luck

Not quite what i was looking for but thanks anyway.

Does anyone have info, if someone has translated some of the game menus, story, etc.. Thanks

Girlfriend who has a wife who knows an associate. Bluberries or Dingle Berries

Jordan Godzilla or Bob Vila?

Brunettes. Donut or Cream Pie?

Big dog 80's Madonna or MILF Madonna?

Aluminum Chicken or Lasagna

Who makes these wheels?

Its the teaser for their new game. lots of Z action!!!!! (drools). Click on the trailer you want to see. http://www.gametrailers.com/gamepage.php?id=4483

What size spacer are you using on the sportsmax if any