trippintl0

Wow! Great work!

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Fit an entire drumset in my 280zx coupe. Also one time removed the hatch lid completely so I could take home a washing machine from a garage sale!

Just my opinion, but those sticky zip ties come loose. I like the zip ties with a hole to run a screw through them - Home Depot calls them "Mounting Ties" or mounting zip ties or something. Cheap and very effective.

The only thing I know from working at AutoZone is that the 1983 280zx Turbo has different part number for rear shocks than any of the other year 280zx. I never could compare the two because we didn't stock them at my store, but it may be worth looking into.

I just looked on AutoZone website: All 280zx Non-Turbo cars use the exact same JA929 "ignition rotor." If you're talking about the "distributor" showing different part numbers between different years, this is true: Earlier 280zx had a 2-plug ignition module (E12-80 I think) and the later had a 4-plug ignition module; and possibly, though I'm not 100% sure, the vacuum advance canister may be different between different non-turbo models. Some had one vacuum connection and some had 2 I believe. Good luck.

Go to the junkyard and look at Volvo's and other Bosch injection cars. They have the 3-terminal plug that fits on the TPS, but they are completely insulated and look really nice and pretty. Cut it off, solder & heat-shrink it to your existing wiring harness. (edit) - Just FYI I've actually done this, unfortunately I don't know which exact year or model, but I am 100% sure I have a nice clean insulated OEM plug from another vehicle on my L28E's TPS.

Use cheap NGK plugs until you get this thing figured out!! And DON'T leave your wideband in there until you get the thing at least idling because the excessive richness will foul out the O2 sensor! It happened to me.

Good info! And just fyi: Freon enters at top of condenser as a gas. Freon exits at bottom of condenser, hopefully condensed into a liquid.

So you know in the future, buy two nuts: one regular nut and one "jam" nut. Thread pitch is 3/4" x 16. Here in Dallas I went to a local Ace Hardware and they had the regular and jam nuts in stock for this particular size. This way you can remove and install the stud without risking damaging the threads.

I have hauled an engine in a 1983 Maxima. 4 little bolts and trunk lid comes off. Engine goes in. Engine hoist folded up in backseat! I have also hauled a Chevy 3.1v6 engine in a 1980 Datsun 280zx. 4 little bolts and hatch comes off. Engine goes on an old tire (no rim)... you get the idea! Of course it would've been much easier with a small pickup.. Only thing I can say about using an SUV or van is that it is more difficult to put engine in sometimes. The two times I bought complete engines at the junkyard, a huge bulldozer with a chain on one of the hooks picked the engine up and set it down in my trunk/hatch. To do it in an SUV or van would've probably required a forklift, which they didn't have.

Good job on the troubleshooting! So, where'd you get the MS from?

That's not what RollingParts said at all...actually he explained it very clearly, better than I could have, which is good, so I won't try to repeat what he already said! LOL this thread is getting messy...

I think the one you are talking about sends a signal to automatic A/C to delay Heater operation until coolant is up to temperature.

I stick a long screwdriver in the breather tube at the top and then pry it up, using the screwdriver as a pry bar.. (oops thats a no-no).