DuoWing

I was just wondering if these work good and hold tight for holding the hinges together. Like I said in the atlanticz.ca link he mentions there being slack between the bushings and pin when assembled. So I didn't know if this would have the same issue or if these hold tight with little to no play at the pivot point? On my hinges it's the roller that's completely shot and the door is starting to sag. I'll probably go ahead and get a set and see how it works.

I know this is kind of bringing this thread back, but I was curious if anyone has fixed their hinges using the Dorman pin/bushing set? I see in the atlanticz.ca link that he mentions using a NAPA part for Nissan trucks but saying it has slack in the bushings/pins and he ended up using the Nissan parts. My driver's door hinges are in serious need of rebuild. I ordered the rollers from mcmaster-carr and I'm trying to figure out if I should order the Nissan parts or just get the Dorman ones.

Apparently the 4mm offset is on special order and will require 2-4months if they can get them. I ended up going with the 10mm offset. I dont know if these will clear without a spacer, otherwise I'll grab some 5mm spacers as mentioned and go that route. I assume if the 10mm offset fits I'd have to go with a smaller tire like 205 or 215 to avoid rubbing. I don't know how much of a difference there is performance/grip/handling wise between the 205, 215, and 225 widths. As I said I'm trying to learn

Thanks again for the info. I didn't realize that tires could be made so differently even though they're the same size. Guess it's just like buying clothing. Also I wasn't really saying that so many combinations fitting the Z was a bad thing more so it just makes it really hard to figure out what fits and doesn't when people tell you it fits or it doesn't and you have no clue as to what suspension setup they're using if it's a 240/260Z or a 260/280Z. Front valence, etc.

Thanks for the info. I'm trying to learn as I'm a n00b to wheels/tires. I think the problem is everyone is running a different suspension/brake setup along with everyone running different size tires and the fact that the 240-280Z have slightly different setups as well. I'm not too worried about them being sunken into the fenders so much so that should be good. I'll stick with the +4s then.

Hey everybody I was hoping for some advice on this. I keep finding posts and going back and forth and couldn't find exactly the answer I'm looking for. I decided to go with 16x8 +4mm RB-R's for my 280Z which has the Toyota 4-piston calipers along with the Tokico Illumina Spring/Strut set. I keep looking and I can't seem to find the right answer if these will fit or not. I've seen people say go with the +4mm then others say go with the +10mm offset. It looks like the RB-R's should clear the calipers, and then I need to go with a tire size, but again that seems to be another issue that no one can seem to agree on what fits. Go with 225/50, but those won't fit. Go with a 215/50 or 215/45. Everyone seems to have something different on their Z and then someone says it may not fit while another person does fit. What I really want to know is if the +4 would be alright with my suspension/brake setup or if I should see if I could have my order changed to the +10mm offset? I know I've seen that people say the spring perch is lower on the 280Z than the 240Z so offset would be better on these cars. I currently have the Swastikas on my Z with not fitment issues. Also forgot to mention I have the MSA Urethane 240Z style airdam on my car. I know people mention clearance issues with stock valence, but again I don't know if it's just on the 240Z or all S30s. Maybe I've just missed the thread I need? Thanks for info guys.

I'm trying to figure out if this can be corrected. My Driver's window is missing the roller bumper, the clip broke on it. The window also would go up very crooked so I adjusted the regulator and now the window actually aligns with the top of the door and the seal without me having to try and move the window back and forth, but the other issue I have is that when rolled up my driver's window actually is outside of the frame towards the interior of the car. When rolling it up I have to push out on the window a little bit so it will go into the channel at the top of the door. I haven't found really found any threads about this issue and the one I did find made no mention of if they fixed it or how to fix it. Are there some kind of spacers in the regulator that position the window better? My passenger side works fine other than the fact that the window doesn't roll up the easiest.

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who has dreamed about copying the Mazda dash setup in a Z. I was thinking if I had a spare dash I'd experiment with cutting and fiberglassing. I was thinking just doing just the 3 main gauge pods into the Z dash would look really cool, while in a way keeping sort of the Z look.

Hey guys I feel really stupid having to ask this, but I'm in the process of installing my Momo steering wheel, I'm just curious as to what or how I align the pins for the blinkers? Or do I just center the wheel and put the adapter on where it says Top pointing straight up?

Thanks for this I'm going to have to go check to find out what I have.

I'm trying to find out how to identify the 5-speed transmissions from 77-83. My 76' came with a 5-Speed in it when I bought it. I know that they didn't come with a 5-speed so it had to have been swapped. Also because I had no dust boot, inner shifter boot, etc around the shifter rod on the transmission. So unless these all magically fell apart and fell off the car I'm pretty sure it's been swapped out. I've since replaced all these, but I'm trying to find out what year my 5-speed came from. Is there any way to really identify what year tranny it is?

I know this is a little old, but I'm glad I found this. My passenger door has been missing the lock cylinder, I bought new ones and upon removing the driver's side I was able to see that someone clearly tried to remove the lock from the passenger side by yanking it or beating it out from the outside of the door, as the metal is all bent up around that. I also no longer have the retaining clip, or the arm that connects to the lock cylinder for the passenger door. So I hope to find some doors that don't have the side molding trim on them. Now that I know I have the range of 70-76 to look for that makes life easier.

I remember on my stock ZXT with auto tranny by the time you were rolling up onto about 5500 RPM there wasn't much left, it'll be interesting to get out and really see how it does with the N/A cam in my L28ET when I get a chance.

My old 280ZXT which became the donor for my 280Z was super solid. I drove the thing for 3 years as my only car. In the winter it was one of the best cars I've ever driven, it would slide but was super predictable. It would even be out there starting up on the single digit degree days. The only time it didn't start was when we were well below 0*F other than that it did great. I only got 22mpg at best, but that was also with the lame-o 3-Speed automatic behind the motor. Actually I never did try driving it on long trips at 60mph, probably could have pulled a few more mpg out of it. As people said the stock L28ET as long as you don't start building it for power is rock solid and super reliable. People thought I was crazy when I would just take it on 4+ hour trips with no hesitation.

I made my brackets stupidly. I made the brackets to fit the seat first just using your pictures as reference, the way I ended up bending my metal it came out sitting up a bit higher than yours did. Maybe a half inch to 3/4 of an inch higher than your seat sits, but because of the way I did it my seat actually just clears that hump in the transmission tunnel so my seat is centered, actually when I measured it it sits slightly closer to the trans tunnel than it does to the door, but my arm rest and seatbelt guide do not rub. So it's a tradeoff. Just a little bit higher seating position or you go a little lower, but have to mount it more off center towards the door. It'll take a little getting used to, but man the seat feels so good for driving position, and holding you in I think it'll completely be worth it. Now I need to go finish up the passenger seat's bracket.

If you haven't done so you may want to adjust the throttle stop screw so your throttle plate will be open a little more. I found that when I removed all the idle/vacuum/emissions equipment from my L28ET it was idling really low, barely over 500 RPM. I adjusted the throttle stop screw to open the throttle body up a little more and brought the idle up to about normal and my car did a lot better.

One more question, I can't tell from your pic, did you just cut off most of that slide adjustment handle on the bottom of the S2000 seats? I also finished removing the rails from my driver's seat. Is kind of a pain. Basically I just completely removed the seat bracket/rails from my seat, drilled pretty far through the rivets, then using vice grips crushed the one end until it pretty much twisted off, then I was able to then hammer the crap out of the rivets.

I'm hoping to have time to install these this weekend. I'm wondering how these compare to installing something like the Corbeau racing buckets. I know those supposedly leave you sitting higher as well.

Unfortunately my passenger seat came first, so I'll be installing that this weekend to see how it goes. What did you have to do for cutting the rails off? Also I'm assuming since you used the stock frame rails you just removed the S2000 seatbelt connector and used the Z one? I gotta say these seats feel really nice and hold you really well.

After I came across this thread I decided to go with S2000 seats over Miata seats. Did you get your passenger seat installed?

The PCV system is still in place and connected. It has been a while since I checked the valve. Ill have to pull it and test it.

Well I'm back to give another update on this POS. Anyway I went ahead and plugged off the exhaust entirely and capped off the intake. I used a 5 gallon air tank to pressurize the intake and I was finding I couldn't get above 2-3 psi. It was bleeding off so fast. So I went about finding vacuum leaks and found a bunch. Fixed all of the ones I could find and now I was able to actually pressurize the intake up to 6 psi, I didn't go much beyond that for fear of ruining something. It wouldn't hold, and would still bleed off. I found little things like where I capped the intake to be bleeding off a little which was no big deal, a little bit of bleed off at one of the mounting bolts to the downpipe, etc. Car still ran like crap, but did seem better. Still low vacuum though. Thinking I must have messed up the intake gasket I went and redid that, gasket had a few signs of where it could maybe be leaking, but I feel like I was really trying to stretch and justify it. Changed out the gasket anyway and put it all back together. Pulled the distributor out so I could get to the last bolt with my ratchet easily. So now I have to figure out timing, but anyway I can't get the car to start at all now. I found that my distributor cap is being held on by one screw. I don't know if this could cause the spark inside the cap to arc or bleed out causing ignition problems? Pulled the plugs and they were completely fuel soaked and black, they were breaking and bending too even though I was using a spark plug socket. So will put new plugs in tomorrow after letting the cylinders dry out a bit. So a few quick questions: 1.) Can the dizzy cap being held by only one screw cause a problem? I can kind of lift and move the cap a little on the side where it's not screwed down. 2.) I have an aftermarket pump and aftermarket rising rate FPR and I removed the factory damper so my fuel pressure gauge shows the needle really fluttering when it does run(in one of my previous posts you can see this in the youtube video, is this normal?) 3.) Is there any way to tell if the oil pump is off a tooth or so? When the car was running I was able to set the timing correctly within the allowed adjustment of the dizzy so I think the oil pump was installed correctly. 4.) Any other suggestions from you guys?

I was curious if anyone happens to have a MegaSquirt setup that they used on a L28 that they may no longer need or be looking to get rid of. I'm planning to buy a setup eventually, but I figured I'd see if anyone has one and see if I could save a few bucks. PM me or e-mail: duowing@gmail.com Thanks!

Forgot to mention about the fuel pump. I did change it out, I changed it to a Walbro 255lph or whatever it's called or at least supposedly it is. I bought it through ebay, but I'm not 100% sure that it actually is a Walbro... I'm thinking what I'm going to do is try and make a boost leak tester. I'm going to remove the maf and cap off the rubber boot and then get some rubber tubing and a cap and cap off the exhaust, and just use like a bike pump to slowly pump air into it and look for leaks. I believe I read to use a mixture of soapy water and then that way you can see it bubble up around the leak? I'm really hoping that's all it is. Another thing I realized was I never sprayed around the brake booster or it's lines. So there's a possibility of a big leak there.

Well the weather is getting warmer and I'm back at it. I still cannot seem to get this POS running right. I hope someone can help, also if anyone lives around me that can come help me with this thing I'll be more than happy to pay. I was going to make a topic for it, but I'm not sure where I should put that. Anyway quick background on the car/motor. 99k L28ET that came out of my 83' 280ZXT automatic. Motor was swapped into a 76' 280Z with a 5-speed, fidanza flywheel, ACT Street Performance Clutch kit, head was switched out for a P90 from a P90A with a non-turbo A cam. Redid oil pump, timing chain, tensioner, water pump, new alternator, etc. Basically a rebuilt motor save for the bottom end. Using an egr-less N42 intake manifold that's been shaved and polished as well, MSA 2.5" turbo downpipe, and I think that's it. Running this is a 1986 Z31T ECU with a Nistune board. This setup ran perfectly when the motor was in my 280ZXT. I've been trying everything to get this thing running right, I've checked and see that I have spark to all cylinders. I have fuel, at one point I thought injectors were possibly clogged or messed up pulled the rail and hooked up a fuel pump. Also ran power to each injector individually while the rail was pressurized. None of the injectors leaked, and their spray pattern all matched each other pretty closely. I put a noid light on each individual injector clip while running and I'm showing that all 6 injectors are getting signal. I've pulled the valve cover and checked the valve clearances they were all off, readjusted them. Need to recheck to see if they're still in spec. Did a compression test and got: 1 - 135 2 - 130 3 - 135 4 - 135 5 - 135 6 - 130 So that seems ok. Checked the timing today and at idle it was pretty much spot on at 20* before TDC. At best I'm sometimes seeing vacuum sitting at -15 mmHG. The needle does not sit steady and jumps alot, I have a video to show. Put my wideband on and I'm seeing what looks to be fairly lean at idle, really lean when warming up and the timing is super advanced, close to 40* before TDC. Not sure if this is correct or not. When removing oil filler cap I'm seeing little to no difference on the wideband, vacuum gauge, and I'm not even hearing really any change in the motor. My needle on my fuel pressure gauge vibrates like crazy I don't know if this is an indication of anything? When it's doing the priming sequence it doesn't vibrate, but vibrates rapidly while running. Pressure might need to be adjusted as it is sitting pretty high at idle. Around 40psi. These videos came from my phone, so the sound isn't the best. The car seems to be almost running lean even at higher RPM. I don't know how to insert youtube videos right onto the page. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fzs9gQaHoQk http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5Zu9xJ45M0 I found a spot around the throttle body that seemed to respond to spraying brake parts cleaner all over it and I noticed the wideband would begin to read a little more rich when loaded up with brake parts cleaner. Any suggestions on where to go with this? Like I said if there's anyone around the Cleveland area as well who could potentially help me, I'd be willing to pay. I've been wanting to get this car running right so bad. Thanks guys.