DuoWing

I didn't see this posted anywhere, or I didn't come across the info I needed at least while searching. Anyway in my 76' 280Z for some reason the previous owner had cut out the bulb holder/socket for the driver's side brakelight. I'm not really sure why, the rest of the harness is there, but that one socket is missing. I went to the auto parts store and picked up a replacement socket for the 1157 bulb for 1976-1984 GM vehicles. The back of the socket is pretty big, but it looks like where it connects in might fit. I'll post here if it works. Has anyone encountered this problem? Or replaced these sockets for the brake lights? If so what have you guys used?

Well I need some pics, but this long project keeps getting sidetracked, but it's coming together. I finally have it running. The oil pump needs to be dropped and reinstalled as the timing is way off. Currently this is how the car sits: Suspension: Tokico Springs Tokico Shocks/Struts Energy Suspension Bushings all around New Ball Joints New Tie Rod Ends Brakes: Rear Stock Brakes 4-Piston Toyota Front Calipers with new rotors Stainless braided brake lines all around Engine: F54 Dished Piston Block P90 Polished Head A-Stamped Non-Turbo Cam 2-Row Crank pulley ARP Head Studs Polished Valve cover Shaved/Polished EGR-less N42 intake manifold Pallnet Fuel Rail Polished Timing Cover New Water Pump New Timing Chain Kit New Oil Pump New Oil Cooler setup with -8 AN Stainless braided lines New Starter New Alternator MSA 2.5" Turbo Downpipe Trans/Diff: Early Z 5-speed trans Fidanza 10.5lb Aluminum Flywheel ACT Street Performance Clutch New Slave cylinder Body Coming Shortly: 240Z Xenon Front Air dam MSA Front/Rear Fiberglass Bumpers More to come soon

I want to say NGKBPR6ES or something along that line, I think gapped to .44 As far as my TPS goes, I think it might be on it's way out. I put the multimeter prongs on it and the ohm reading is jumping all over the place.

Well a quick update, I recently did an oil change, put a new fuel filter in, reset the ignition timing, advanced it a little. Going to put it back to normal when I put my NIStune ECU in. Anyway it was still basically doing the same problem, missing at light to little throttle, but seems to run generally fine in upper RPMs and higher throttle. Need to recheck ECU codes since it's been awhile, but I only ever get 21. I pulled the connector off my TPS as I've been meaning to check that today and the contacts are completely green and corroded so tomorrow when I have time I'm going to clean them up. Also I was trying to OHM them out and I was getting nothing, so it looks like the TPS is also improperly set or dead. So I'll pull it, clean up the contacts, check to see if it still works, adjust it, and then install my K&N cone filter and go for a drive.

Zmanco, did you use 1/4" NPT threads? It seems like that's what everyone is using and probably what I'll go with on my head.

The earlier intakes like my non-egr N42 intake doesn't have the webbing which would probably make it easier then for port 4.

Well from the way it sounds at least doing the 4-6 cylinder bypass would definitely be an improvement to what we have. I see what you're saying by redesign the head and combustion chamber, but mainly for the money, time and, effort it seems like the bypass is the most feasible design. At least like you said with KTM's motor eventually going boom consistently sounds like an improvement over stock whether we call it a band-aid fix or not. Anyway like Zmanco was asking, if you were to tap and bypass 4-6 would that cause any kind of flow discrepancy vs. doing the cylinder 5-6 bypass or would you still be alright as far as cooling goes to those cylinders? Basically I'm planning to do 4-6 to my spare P90, so more or less is there any reason to not do the cylinders 4-6 bypass?

Can you really call the stock ones bumpers? I mean other than maybe something there for when you're inching along, most any kind of impact will crush those too. I mean just about every one I've seen for sale on ebay lately all have dents in them. I bought a set of the fiberglass bumpers though. They seem nice. I ended up buying them because it was alot cheaper than what people were trying to get for a single "ok" condition front or rear bumper.

I wish I could do what someone wanted, but here's my take on this whole thread. Someone let me know if I got it right. Basically the way Nissan designed the cooling system in the L-Series motors was a design flaw. Along with small casting flaws, etc act to work against the cooling system. Another part of our issues is with people's cooling systems simply not being up to snuff' for years. Anyway it seems like Nissan never addressed the cooling issue in the cars as the normal Z car sold was never figured to be used heavily or used at all as far as racing or heavy load goes. Anyway it seems the best possible solution for our cars is to use a higher pressure pump, reverse flow the entire coolant system with slightly better routing? Although overall the best solution(time/money/ease) for us is to use the suggestion that was repeatedly mentioned throughout this thread. Drill and Tap 1/4" NPT holes above cylinders #4, #5, and #6 then using fittings and lines route them into either the lower Thermostat housing, the upper radiator hose, or even directly into the radiator(however you see fit). As this basically will allow for better overall flow, smoother flow, and in the event of cavitation which is bound to happen a place to allow the steam pockets that form a place to escape quickly rather than sit and manifest and begin to cause damage. Now as Zmanco above is saying about having those tapped could cause less flow to those cylinders, but it seems like having it tapped up in the head really isn't diverting the flow much as the coolant is still making it's way from the bottom to the top. It's just providing more routing for the coolant and to keep it flowing quicker? Oh and with these solutions use the correct antifreeze mix with water wetter, or go a step further and use distilled water with the water wetter as it is another helpful tool in keeping temps down. I can't remember what the other type of coolant people were switching to was called or what was special about it. I'd have to go back and read more towards the beginning. So guys did I get it right? Did my reading comprehension work? I'm definitely planning on doing the 4-6 bypass to my spare P90 head and have it fully rebuilt. I'm probably going to have to end up pulling my existing head as is...

I just did this a few weeks ago. I just tried to match up really closely where to put the PCV on my N42 egr-less intake. I was trying to do a 90* fitting, but that still was against the turbo. So I just drilled a new spot for the PCV and used some pipe thread sealer. There's enough material as mentioned, although I did notice that spot for the heatshield. I agree with what others have said. It may not look as nice, but run the heatshield as it will help. Not to mention with the N42 there is no webbing to help dissipate heat under and out from the sides of the manifold. I just painted my heat shield with manifold paint. Looks nice. Also just use a 1/4" NPT pipe plug for the old PCV spot.

Hey, I'm looking for a Vacuum Pump out of a turbo 300ZX. Mine is an 87, it works, but one of the plastic nipples broke off so now I can't connect the vacuum line into it giving me the dreaded heat always on. Makes summer driving a bit uncomfortable during rain or when you can't have the windows down. Anyone happen to have one in good/working condition? PM, Reply, E-mail: duowing@gmail.com Thanks!

I know this is a little old, but I wanted to ask a quick question. I'm wiring up my turbo motor in my 76' I have an 83' harness. I've got everything pretty much figured except for the wire on the Fuel Pump Relay. I see that I run the one wire into the fuel pump. I've found that there's a green w/blue striped wire that runs from the fuel pump, up front into the fuse box and elsewhere. Anyway should I just cut this wire before it branches off and run it into my Fuel Pump Relay or should I splice into this wire. Leave it hooked up, but then just add another branch off for my FPR? That's all I need. Thanks for this thread though. It's been awesomely helpful!

Alright, I've been trying to search. Probably didn't search enough. I've been wanting to get myself a set of Konig Rewinds. The graphite with the polished lip. I'm unsure of what to go with the 15" or the 16". I've seen people mentioning rubbing and others having no rubbing issues. Some using spacers, etc. My car has an energy suspension bushing set, the Tokico illuminas, and the Tokico springs. So If anyone can provide input on that. Also my biggest question that I didn't seem to come across an answer to is, will the rewinds clear the calipers? I'm using the 4-piston front calipers from an 83' Toyota Pickup. I know the 15" swastikas clear just fine. Anyone had problems with clearance on the rewinds?

Hey guys, with my engine all torn apart I had kept all the valve cover bolts together. Then for some reason or another I remember them falling on the ground. I can't for the life of me remember what I did with them. I'll keep looking, but until then I was wondering can someone give me a hand here and tell me what size, pitch, and length they are? Or a close length so I can get some replacements? New ones would look nice with my polished valve cover anyway. By the way I tried searching valve cover bolts, I couldn't seem to find a thread on it. Thanks!

Yeah, I forgot to mention when I did change everything I went all out. New plugs, NGK wires, cap, rotor, coil, ic unit, chts, chts sub harness. I reset my ignition timing just slightly advanced, but that was before I changed over the plugs and plug wires as well as the CHTS. I should recheck my ignition timing. I'm not sure if my Z31 has had the injector recall done to it or not. I'll have to take a closer look.

Hey guys I'm trying to find an alternative to a fuel tank for my 76' 280Z. It's a rusty old tank and I could have it reconditioned, but they want $300. I don't know if this is reasonable or not. Does anyone happen to have a reconditioned 280z tank for sale? If so PM, reply or e-mail: duowing@gmail.com Zipcode is 44143 for shipping purposes. Can a tank be shipped?

Alright, here's a question for you guys. A while back when I got my Z31 I was having hard start and stumble at cold startups. The car would generally run fine once warm. The ECU was putting out code 21. I ended up replacing the Ignition, Coil, Wires, Plugs, etc. Seemed to be really no different. Then I was eventually getting code 13. So I put in a new CHTS and that actually did help. The car runs pretty well, I also replaced the sub harness for the CHTS. Anyway under boost or more throttle I have no issues. Under steady driving with little throttle it feels like there's a slight miss or a slight stumble, it's not really bad, but slightly annoying. After driving for a while I rechecked the ECU codes and still only had code 21. Any thoughts on this? Also I tried to pay attention, at first I thought it was only at 2000RPM when it happened, but it seems like I can stay in a lower gear at higher RPM and still get the same issue. I'm thinking possibly TPS? I'll have to check it, maybe it's improperly adjusted and I'm sitting with my pedal right at the point where it switches on or off.

I went through this with my 280Z. I ended up going with the Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel and the ACT Street Performance Clutch. I'm using the stock Nissan 5-Speed.

Hey guys, I'm sure this has probably been brought up and I'm not searching the right keywords or something, but I just wanted to ask about the install. We pulled the front struts from my 76' 280Z and I bought the Tokico Illumina/Spring advanced handling kit or whatever it's called. Anyway I bought new dust boots for the struts as well from KYB. The boots fit slightly different it looks like. Almost like it fits around the bumper that it comes with instead of fitting over the lip where the original boot was. Anyway we got it all together and the springs don't need to be compressed at all. I've been searching and this seems to be the case from what I can tell. Basically I wanted to make sure that we just put the springs on there, bolt the mounting plate on and then put it back on the car? The springs from what I can tell from my searches will move when there isn't the weight of the car on them, right? Also I'm a noob to suspension stuff, but I assume the "bumper" that comes with my KYB dust boot is the bump stop, right? Thanks for input guys.

That's a possibility what Bleach said. You may have a bad connection somewhere or right at the AFM. Also check your timing, check for vacuum leaks, and again make sure your CHTS is plugged in. Even if that's plugged in it can go bad. Every Z I've had so far that had a CHTS has had the CHTS go bad.

I forgot about the idle up for A/C. My A/C didn't really work so I removed the belt from the compressor so I never had to worry about it. Like I said though I did keep the air regulator for the fast idle on cold starts, that helps alot especially since I drove my Z daily through the winter. That fast idle made a world of difference on those 10*F and colder days.

Alright I installed a Nistune board into an 89' Z31 ECU N/A. It's now set to run with 88-89 Z31T fuel maps and timing, etc. Anyway I see since I'm using it on my 280ZX harness that I need dropping resistors for the injectors. I saw on a writeup on XenonZ31.com that it shows to use 6-10ohm 10Watt wirewound dropping resistors. I went to radioshack and all they had were 10ohm/10 watt resistors. I assume this is fine, but I see JWT uses 6.8ohm/10 watt resistors. Can anyone chime in and let me know if using 10ohm/10 watt resistors will be ok?

I really like it. I liked it so much that I actually bought another board. Since I'm putting together a 76' 280Z and I got the MSA downpipe which has the bung for the larger Zirconia O2 sensor I opted to put a Nistune board into an 89 Z31 N/A ECU and use my 86T ECU in my Z31. Anyway for the price and what it allows you to do I really like it. I've never used MS, but you can pretty much tune everything. You can set your base idle ignition timing, monitor maf voltage, temperature, speed, rpm, etc. You can fully customize your fuel and timing maps, custom set idle/startup enrichment, cold start timing advance and more. Some of the features I like and I think MS has it. Is that it's compatible with Wideband O2s. It can add the info right into your Nistune log and even record and map your O2 values into a table then you can compare each cell with the A/F and what your ECU's set a/f ratio is at and adjust as needed. When it's all done you can keep logs and do log playback to watch for anything you may have missed or watch to see where a problem is occurring.

Hey guys I'm looking for the front and rear bumpers from a 240Z as well as the 240Z front grille. If anyone happens to have these for sale let me know how much you're looking for. PM, Respond or e-mail me: duowing@gmail.com Located in Cleveland, Ohio 44143 for shipping purposes.

You can completely remove the VCM and it's components and have your car run fine. I had done this on my 280ZXT. I removed the AAC valve and blocked it off, I left the EGR on just didn't run a vacuum hose to it, and there's one other little valve that the 4-way split runs to and that's the VCV valve. I plugged that off with a drain plug for the L-series oil pan. Now one thing that may happen is that your car will not idle or barely idle. You will just need to adjust the little nut on the throttle body for the throttle stop to allow the throttle body to sit open a little more at idle until you get to proper idle and you'll be good to go.