DuoWing

One thing that just came to mind. Can I re-use my stock flywheel bolts for my new flywheel or should I get new bolts?

I did the same thing. On my L28ET when pulling the manifolds I tried and tried to loosen that EGR tube. It was the only thing preventing the intake manifold from coming out. Eventually I said screw it and pulled out a hacksaw and went to town. When it was done we used a torch to super heat that section and remove the EGR tube from the downpipe and the intake. Now on my motor I'm using an EGR-less N42 and a MSA downpipe with no EGR bung.

The ZX is supposed to use 91 octane!? I've always used 87 octane. I was originally going to go with a T5 for my 76, but I had the 5-speed in the car already so I decided to go with that. I've heard generally more problems stemming from the T5 over the N/A tranny.

I managed to get a hold of the section I needed. Thanks though!

I need the driver side taillight harness from a 76' 280Z. Or any other year if it's the same. All I really need is the socket for the bulb for the brake light on the driver's side, but if I can get un-cut harness that would be better. I'm looking for the section from the bulb sockets up to that little plastic connector where it plugs into the harness. The one that's in my car was cut up for a connector for a trailer... It's not that bad except for the fact that for some reason one of the sockets for the bulb itself is missing. So if anyone has this, let me know. Does anyone know if the sockets from the 280ZX taillights will fit in the 280Z taillights? If that would work I could probably go cut it off my car. PM or Respond e-mail: duowing@gmail.com Thanks guys!

Does anyone have the single row crank pulley for sale? Since I won't be using the A/C on my 280Z and going with a lighter weight flywheel, I figured I'll try to remove a little more weight from the crankshaft. If anyone has one let me know. PM me, respond to this thread or e-mail me at: duowing@gmail.com

$179 from summit. At least that's what I got mine for

I know this thread is a little old, but I bought a non-locking black gas cap from a 1970s BMW 1600. It was about $8. Anyway I read that these caps will fit our cars. This is for a 5/76 280Z. Anyway I got the cap and it looks like it should fit but there's like the metal section that fits into the grooves on the filler neck is too long. I assume that I can just maybe file down or cut down the metal to make this work? Has anyone done this? I saw the same cap for sale on ebay claimed it was for 240-260-280Z early S30s and says they use it on their own personal car.

It won't make any difference.

I finished scraping out all that coating on the passenger floor and nothing was rusted through. No little holes or anything. The rockers so far look pretty good, there was a little spot of bubbled paint that I poked at and then the paint sorta chipped away to reveal rust, but it looks pretty manageable. As for the floor pans the only part that I'm having a hard time getting at to clean up the rust is in the section of the floor pans where the seats bolt to. There's all the overlapping metal, and it's hard to get anything in under there to clean away. We got the car up on a lift and took a look around. I have a mechanic I know with me so he he's got more experience in looking for rust and he said he thought it definitely was a good body. Battery tray is actually surprisingly clean. There is surface rust around where the passenger inner fender meets the frame rail at the firewall, but that looks like where acid ate away the paint. Looks again like surface. That will get wire wheeled or sanded then painted. Clutch and Brake reservoirs are bone dry. I don't know if the previous owner had drained these or not. He claimed that everything was good, so I'm thinking he had drained it in preparation to put new lines. We found when we got under it that he had put stainless braided brake lines on the car. Mods coming to this car: Engine: 83' L28ET with 99209 miles on original motor Rebuilt P90 solid lifter head ARP head Studs Kameari MLS head gasket New Timing Chain kit N42 egr-less intake manifold 2.5" MSA Turbo Downpipe to 3" exhaust Drivetrain: Early 5-speed Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel ACT Street Performance Clutch Suspension: New Bushings Tokico Illumina Struts/Shocks Tokico Springs With more to come as I get to it. This car when I bought it was claimed to have a dead engine or an engine about to die only though it's claimed that it has 62k miles. I bet it's actually 162k. Anyway the previous owner said that it was a failed or clogged spraybar which stopped lubricating the cam and you can figure what happened from then on. Anyway this became apparent as to why this would have happened when I looked under the valve cover. The thing looks like it maybe had one oil change over the course of it's life. The cam, lifters, rockers, spraybar, chain, etc is covered in sludge. Looks like my firs 85' 300ZX. So it will be pretty awesome to go from driving a stock auto 280ZXT to a 76' 5-speed S30, with a lightened flywheel, larger exhaust, 10psi of boost without a boost leak, etc.

Hey here was something that has come to mind. I'll be swapping my turbo motor and my harness over to my 76' 280Z very soon here. I've converted the harness to use the Z31 ECU/MAF/Chopper Wheel. Anyway I had no problems with the setup in my 83' 280ZXT, but I was wondering what can be done about the S30. Since I believe it doesn't have a speed sensor there would never be a switch to activate the MAF's burnoff cycle which can eventually cause buildup on the wire and false readings, etc. I was wondering what can be done about this?

Well my 280Z is finally starting to make progress, I've ripped out the remainder of the crappy old worn out brown carpet, the seats are out, I pulled the wiring harness, etc. The motor is about to come out soon for my L28ET that's about to go in. Should be a good time. Took off the front valence or whatever it's called, that piece in front of the hood. Here's what I have. Looks fairly clean to me. Need to sweep all that excess crap out, and probably just a little bit of sanding and I'll be good.

The turbo won't be different, but my 280ZXT was always an automatic. I've never actually driven an L28ET with a 5-speed. So it should be a huge change especially since I'm going from a stock turbo automatic running only at 10 psi with a boost leak to a 5-speed with light weight flywheel, 2.5" downpipe to 3" exhaust, no cat, in a lighter 280Z, etc.

Alright, well I did some searching through this and ended up going with an ACT 240mm Street Performance Clutch and a Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel. Anyway I came through the searching across an issue relating to the flywheel bolts I think it was? Something about the stock flywheel bolts are too long or something, so you need different bolts, but no one seemed to be able to find the correct size and you needed to get slightly longer bolts and cut them down?

Hey guys, I'm looking for a headgasket for my Z. I've seen head gaskets from the zccjdm.com site, and I'm not sure where else to get a headgasket. I've seen they have copper and the other type that's supposed to be really good, but I've heard that an mls headgasket is really good? I'm looking for a good gasket. I'm getting a rebuilt head, using arp studs, etc. I'm looking to eventually make my way towards more power. My goal right now is 300hp, but that'll be a slow build-up. So I figured I'm better off going with a good gasket to start.

Thanks for that. Saves a little compared to MSA mainly due to free shipping. I can't wait to get my 76 going now.

I know this thread is a month and a half old, but I was curious as to where you got your 240mm ACT clutch? I'm doing a very similar setup. I found an older thread of yours linking to a site where I was able to get my Aluminum Fidanza flywheel much cheaper, and I was wondering if you found any bargain's on the ACT. I also was wondering if you encountered any issues in bolting the clutch up to the flywheel? I found another thread where a person mentioned that not all 9 holes on the clutch pressure plate would line up and it was said that using just 6 bolts was fine. Did you come across this issue.

Alright I read through that thread. It seems like the 225 doesn't matter so much, but it seems more like the clutch. Anyway I hope I did this right. I went with an Aluminum 10.5 lb FIdanza Flywheel. I'm taking your guys advice and just do this while it's out. Since I'm planning for power anyway. I got the Fidanza Flywheel part number: 143281 Now I guess the only thing I don't know is what clutch to get. I did some more searching and I saw that with this flywheel the 225mm pressure plate bolts up fine, but the 240mm pressure plate is slightly off, but people say you're fine with just 6 bolts. So can anyone direct me to what I'm looking at for clutch? I keep seeing ACT clutches come up alot, but I've thought I've always heard good stuff about Centerforce.

Hey Guys I'm getting ready to do my turbo swap here shortly and I'm looking for the larger 240mm Flywheel out of a 2+2ZX or off an L28ET. If anyone's got one for sale let me know. Send me a PM or e-mail me: duowing@gmail.com

Hey guys I'll be swapping my L28ET into my 76' 280Z soon. The 76 has an early 5-speed in it. My L28ET is coming from an auto car. I was doing some searching and it sounds like there really aren't any good 225mm sized clutches that hold up well if you start running higher boost? I was hoping I could get away with buying a performance 225mm clutch, but it seems like I should get the 240mm flywheel and a 240mm clutch then? Any suggestions?

They're just figuring out ways to solve problems that still exist and just making it less noticeable to the operator? That's pretty interesting that they do that. Is there really any reason for a returnless fuel system? Or would it be so there's less fuel lines to run? I mean is there any advantage or disadvantage?

Back in the Summer Tony and I had a discussion on this over on Zcar. Basically his method was to put a little bypass toggle switch in the car so he could keep the fuel pump running for about 10 seconds or without the starter turning to cool the rail. For one thing I know my check valve in my pump is bad so that's part of the problem as most of the time over night my fuel pressure would be pretty much depleted in the lines. Anyway along with the discussion we had I had ran around for a while with a fuel pressure gauge constantly hooked up under the hood of my car. I started monitoring it I'd take not even a freeway drive, but a long drive on some 45mph back roads pull into a lot and stop the car. After just a minute or two the gauge pressure started rising a good bit. Indicating that the rail was soaking in heat and the fuel was expanding. Basically the best thing to do other than a little bypass to keep the pump running would be to just do the 3-second prime, then do it a couple more times to help cool the rail. Eventually I need to replace the little check valve in my pump and see if that helps to any degree. As for the heatshield I still have that heatshield between my exhaust manifold and intake manifold and the problem still occurs. It was really bad the one day, but that was after about 1.5-2 hours on the freeway and then I shut the car off right at the rest stop. I should have let it idle for a bit to just help bring temps down.

cool, thanks for the info.

Alright, I recently got myself a pair of 240Z turn signals. The lenses themselves are in decent shape, but alot of the bolts to remove the lenses broke...So I need to get those out. I'm debating buying a new set of lenses. Anyway when I was taking them apart to clean the lenses and the housings I noticed the little pieces of metal in the housings that looks like it has reflective tape on it or something is falling apart. Is it a big deal or will it make much difference if you don't have these pieces of metal with the reflective tape? Have you guys encountered this? Any solution? I was thinking about seeing if I could find some LED replacement bulbs that might fit.

I'll need to get some better pictures. I haven't had a chance to work on it, but are you guys to give any thoughts on how that floorpan looks? Like I said, I've been stabbing away with no punctures, but at the same time I always end up getting paranoid. Any thoughts on the pans? Oh another thing I noticed is that when I scrape up that rubber insulation or whatever it is the metal underneath doesn't have paint, but looks pretty clean. Maybe I did get lucky and just happen to have a surface rusted pan. Finally it's warming up so soon I should be able to get more done on this. Oh another thing. The door windows both have issues with going up and down. The driver's window all the way up sits incorrectly in the door and leaves a big open gap. Can I simply pull apart the door panel, and readjust the window?