DuoWing

I'm about to install an autometer electric speedo into my 76' to match my tach and I had a quick question on the wiring. I have the early style 5-speed, so I've already cut a flat into the 240sx speed sensor and installed it. I see that the instructions show to ground one wire and use the other for the speedometer's signal. Now I'm not sure if it matters which one I use? I'd assume the yellow/black would be the one I ground out? Also I was thinking that I could then run the wire to my z31 ecu which would then also take care of the speed code and also finally allow the ecu to operate the maf burnoff properly. So in that case would I still ground the one wire and then just run the other to the speedo and the ecu, or would I run one to the ECU and one to the speedo?

Well as far as I can tell I think my Tach may have just bit the dust. It doesn't respond at any RPM. I've obtained some new weird running issues and wired back to original igniter and coil and still had no tach. I got a new autometer sportcomp tach to match my boost gauge, so I guess time to take that apart and put it in. There were times in the past where I would be driving and the tach needle would just completely dip down to 0 and then jump back up with no noticeable hesitation in driving, so maybe it was its time.

This looks really interesting and the end result is looking pretty awesome. I'm now considering doing this myself

So far it doesn't do anything. I flipped the pins in the connector to the coil and still saw no difference. I tested the wiring from the coil connector up to the resistor under the dash and I had continuity. I guess I may have to pull the tach and check the connections there. The resistor also seems to still be a 2k ohm resistor so that checks out. Also I don't know what it says about the Z31 coil and PRW-2, but I messed with it a bit and it was revving up poorly if you tried to give it much throttle. Got out the timing light and the timing which used to be perfectly at 20* BTDC was now advanced all the way to around 30* BTDC. So I figure I'll adjust the timing back and see where that leaves me. I'm wondering if the newer coil/transistor are just better that they respond so much quicker so I need to retard the timing to make up for the improved response? Also I guess it's not out of the question that my Tach could have just died, much like my voltmeter worked, I left the battery disconnected and the next time I hooked the battery up my voltmeter portion of the gauge no longer worked.

I had a quick question to ask. I recently upgraded to the 90's PRW-2 igniter and a Z31 coil in my 76' Z running L28ET and Nistune. Only problem I have now is the tach seems to not work. Last time I ran the car on the stock 280ZXT igniter and blaster 2 coil the tach worked fine. Although it has been a good while since I last ran it. Does anyone have any experience with this? My only other thought might be I have the pins for the coil reversed, and maybe this would throw an incorrect tach signal?

I would suggest for the diff just grabbing the technoversion rt mount with the bumper.

The ones I bought I don't believe came with thread sealer already on it, but I did this same setup and I ran into issues with various lines leaking. NPT, flared lines/fittings, and myself don't seem to have a great relationship. I have this issue with air tools, for some reason I'll sometimes get it to seal fine on the first try, other times it takes a couple tries of me wrapping the threads with thread seal tape and trying again. Anyway I wrapped my fittings for my wildwood and didn't have any problem with it. I did run into issues with leaking on various lines with the double flare. I'm running very similar to what you mentioned though. A Wilwood proportioning to the rear and I did a union between the two lines that went into the old proportioning valve for the front. As was mentioned in this thread most of it was resolved by having to loosen/re-tighten my lines. I feel like a lot of times I'm running into seating issues, even with the original factory lines simply because of the way things get bent, moved, etc. You may need to just tighten everything up a bit more.

I drove my Z after all new ball joints, tie rod ends, springs, shocks, energy suspension bushings, etc. I drove it on the old tires from my 280zx donor and man the steering wheel vibrated like crazy on the highway. Once I got my Rotas with new tires and had the car properly aligned it was like driving an entirely different car! Also CasperIV, that's probably one of the best quotes ever.

As the title says I'm looking for the blue 18 tooth cog that matches the 3.7 R200. If anyone happens to have one feel free to pm me or send me an e-mail at duowing@gmail.com I'm located in Cleveland.

I've been going around anytime I see a thread like this in order to tell people that the stock wiring is in fact too small for a larger pump like the Bosch 044. I was running into the same issues. I swapped in my turbo harness and used the factory turbo relay with the original 76' 280z wiring for my fuel pump. After running for a bit the pump would always get loud, I'd get some bogging, and my pressure would drop. The relay would get pretty hot. I started testing. When completely cold I was losing little to no voltage from the pin coming out of the relay to the terminal on the pump. After running and getting warmed up once the relay started becoming hot and pressure had dropped I tested the pin going into the relay connector and coming out. I would see maybe a .1~.2v max drop. The real issue was the wire coming out of the relay, I was seeing a full 1v drop between the wire coming out of the relay and the positive terminal on the pump. That's a long distance to travel. All you have to do is look at the Bosch 044 vs the stock pump to know that it's going to require more power. It's nearly double the size. Finally I switched to a larger 50amp relay which would still get warm and completely rewired my pump to come directly from my maxifuse blocks and go straight to the pump using 10 gauge wire. Now I've since upgraded to an even larger 70amp relay, the kind you get with those electric fan kits. I've since tested the pump wire coming out of the relay and at the pump and now I lose only .3v. I also still use the stock tank output and extended the factory mounting location so that my pump sits a little below the factory tank outlet. Now the pump seems to stay quiet and not have the issues it used to. On really hot days I may hear it a little, but nothing like before. A good while back I found a post on Z31Performance where jeffp was talking about the same exact thing and running into the same exact problem. He's the one who found that the stock wiring and stock relays were just insufficient to run a higher performance pump.

I haven't driven my car enough in the past while to check, but I was running into this same issue. I eventually switched from my Walbro to a Bosch 044 pump. Even that would start to get loud, I then remade the bracket so the pump now sits lower than the fuel tank output barb. Also I made sure that it was mounted horizontally. One thing I noticed with all these aftermarket pumps is that the old factory relay and small gauge wire is not enough. Once the car and pump were warmed up I was losing as much as 1v between the relay and the pump, not to mention my relay was really hot. I found an older post from JeffP over on Z31Performance where he was talking about the same thing. The best solution is to run one of those large 70amp electric fan relays and then run 10 gauge wire directly to the pump. I also ran the pump's ground to the where the taillights ground in the back of the car so it would make for a shorter circuit. This made a big difference as far as running goes. I didn't seem to be encountering the issues anymore. I also agree with randy 77zt. I've just not had great experience with Walbro and in my searches to solve my fuel problems I found more than enough complaints about Walbros. I agree that they're really meant to be used with an in tank application, or to be an inline pump to increase an existing in tank pump.

It's mentioned just a page back, but there are 3/8x24 male to 10mm female adapters available. http://www.brakequip.com/products/automotive-fittings/male-to-female-thread-adapters or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Thread-Adapter-Male-3-8-x-24NF-Female-M10-x-1-Inverted-Seat-/390439357312?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae7ffcb80 these would be the only things I'd add to the first post. Just so people know. Otherwise I didn't know about these and just made new lines with a 3/8x24 fitting on one end and a 10mmx1.0 fitting on the other end.

Alright well it's finally together, after waiting almost a week and a half for those circlips, I got them in thanks to the instructions from you guys. Axle flange, or whatever you call those pieces clipped in nicely. I didn't encounter any issues with clearance between the case and the backside of the flange. I also had no issues with backlash. I wonder if the clearance issues people encountered came from the carrier needed to be shimmed differently? Also I didn't really see anyone mention it, but I did notice that the shaft part of the flange is longer on one side. So I don't know if the shorter one can be popped into the side that has the larger shim on it, maybe this could cause the clearance issue? Also I don't know how this could potentially affect someone who maybe needs to shim their carrier differently from stock?

Seeing as doing this was the first time I ever disassembled a differential I didn't realize about the clips. I could see how it would be much easier to pop the circlip in with the OBX unit assembled, but I've even found a thread where a guy didn't have the clips in his Quaife. Anyway I've ordered some new clips, I mangled the 2 clips that came out of the open carrier in the 300zx that I installed the OBX into, I could still try and pull the clips from my open from my 280z, but I would like to keep that diff as a backup incase the OBX grenades or something.

Do these obx units not have axle circlips in them? This is something that I didn't realize when assembling the obx and now I can't seem to pop the axle shafts into the diff and get them to lock in. Anyway, I managed to pull the circlips out of the old diff. Now I have no clue how to compress and install them into the new one. Any tips? I tried to put one in an attempt, ended up managing to mangle up the clip and get it back out. Are there any generic ones that have the eyelets that can be used?

I just finished installing my OBX into the housing a few minutes ago. I put it in with new Timken bearings, and kept the shim alignment exactly as it came out, I'm also using an R200 out of the Z31 if that makes any difference so I didn't need the spacers for the ring gear bolts. Anyway I measured the backlash, and unless I did something wrong I was coming out at right about .006in. I didn't have the tool for when I took the diff apart, so I'm just going with the fact that it fit factory specs.

Thanks for the update, I kind of figured something might happen like that. I know the FSM even says to check preload at the pinion when it's all installed and to rotate it many times in both directions to help seat/set the bearings and everything.

It really is interesting to see the differences people are encountering with these things. The other thread is saying some are seeing changes in backlash while others aren't. Then there's this issue with the axles rubbing on the case. I'm in the process of finally installing the obx into my diff, which is taking forever because I have to wait on everything to be shipped. I also went with a Z31 R200 that I pulled from a junkyard this way I don't need the ring gear spacers as I have the larger bolts. Once this is all eventually done I'll try and report how it works out for me. I'm curious what others have done about the case grinding. If it is the case of just needing to clearance the case a little, I don't mind doing that as I said it's a junkyard R200 with an OBX, so not a huge investment. Also I know I saw it in one of the two threads, but does anyone have any advice on the best way to mount it so I can attach and properly torque the ring gear bolts? The open diff had the nice flat open section which made mounting it in the vice really convenient. Not sure where to mount the OBX.

For the crank angle sensor, I was lurking over on Z31Performance and apparently just about any VG30 vehicles with a PRW-2/a ignitor has a newer version of the CAS in their distributors, that you just have to remove some locating pins on and these will fit in our distributors, also they use the same style harness connector to the CAS. You may have to change the way it connects to the harness itself, but this way you can go to a junkyard and pull a CAS/connector for it from older Nissans, but primarily Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Vans up to 1998

Nelsonian, I was actually looking at that on RockAuto's site and was a few clicks away from ordering it. Then I was reading through and figured I'll wait and see. It seems like they do keep replenishing their stock every now and then.

In my old 280ZXT with 3-speed auto I was getting 22 at best. This was completely stock. I never actually measured mpg with the Z31 ECCS/MAF setup. So I imagine by just adding a 5-speed you could be sitting at lower RPM on the highway and easily push that number upwards.

I ended up grabbing the SafetyHub 150, plus I went ahead and got just the 6 circuit fuse block from them. I'll use the 6 circuit one to power/fuse my remaining MS stuff. They do look like overall pretty nice products.

Thanks for the advice. I'm actually using Walmart Scosche Maxifuse holders. They've held up fine so far, but they do look cheap and don't have any real weather proofing.

I've had issues in the past where the car would just go lean and start popping over I want to say 3500rpm, this was on stock L28ET harness/ecu/afm. Turned out to just be the crappy connection at the ECU. With the car idling try shaking your wiring harness, I have had a RELENTLESS amount of problems with the harness. Pins 28 and 36 are 2 main ground wires that run a couple inches into a crimped connector that then separates into a ground and connects to a rather large aluminum shielding wire. These are the primary grounds for the knock sensor and the CAS. This also ties into the O2 shielding. Also, I skimmed the thread, but make sure you don't have the L28ET knock sensor hooked up. As from what I've read it's not really compatible with the Z31 and will more than likely cause issues rather than helping the ECU to detect knock. Check your wires at the CAS on both sides. A friend's car we couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start. The CAS had a bunch of butt splices on it's wiring. Turns out one of them was barely making a connection. Once we soldered the connections together properly the car suddenly would fire.

So I've seen Tony as well as others mention the alternator having the ground running off it's case and over to the right Frame Rail. I never gave it much mind, but then I started looking and saw there was a #12-10 wire with a crimp terminal connected to the back of it. I just put everything back as it was when I swapped alternators/motor. Anyway I traced it and saw that it was bolted to the inner fender wall. I started looking around and found a bolt hole by itself on the frame rail just in front of the alternator. Getting close to the radiator/fan shroud. I assume this is the original frame rail ground that gets mentioned? Anyway I made a new 10 gauge wire, crimped the connectors, soldered them, put heat shrink on them and bolted it to the frame rail and to the alternator case. I started pulling out that old wire that previous owner put in and I see there are two little black wires connected into it. Were these additional grounds that got linked into that chassis ground coming off the alternator? I'm looking at the wiring diagrams and I do see a B wire coming off the alternator that splits into a couple different directions and does shortly after get grounded to the chassis. I figure I'll just solder these two tiny wires into a larger wire, and just run them into their own terminal and stack it on the back of the alternator. Can anyone clarify these wires, and on the position of the frame rail ground point?