DuoWing

For anyone wondering my Tokico replacement Brake Master that was in my car was not compatible with the Wilwood so I had to go the route of forming new brake lines. Anyway my measurements for anyone interested fell inline with what Dan_Austin said. I found from the very top of the cylinder bore to the bottom using the push rod that came with the new master for measurement at 28mm. The measurement A I found to be about 15mm. My pushrod stuck out 10mm. So I ended up needing to adjust it out about 3mm. Also for anyone needing help with adjustment I had a person sit in the driver's seat and hold the brake pedal down so the pushrod stuck out nice and far and I could put some vice grips on the lock nut and use a 7mm box wrench to adjust it. I'll probably double check once I get the depth tool, but I feel like this should be good. Now to bleed everything and hope for no leaks...

Well I'm getting ready to do this and for the life of me I can't really figure out doing it the measurement way so I found a push rod depth gauge here: http://www.classicperform.com/Store2/Tools.htm Costs about $30 with shipping. I figure I'll grab this since I don't have any very accurate measuring devices either and they say this is the best tool for adjustment.

When I turbo swapped my 76' I swapped for a solid-lifter head, new timing chain, oil pump, etc. Put it all back together and had a hell of a time getting my car to run right. The biggest issue was vacuum leaks everywhere, yet I couldn't seem to find them with brake parts/carb cleaner. What I did was remove the boot from the throttle body, and cap off the exhaust. Also tried to cap off anything else that could leak. Using a vacuum port and a portable air tank along with a vacuum/boost gauge I pressurized the manifold to only 3-4psi. I used the water and dawn in a spray bottle to spray all over the manifold and managed to find bubbles coming from every which way. I kept fixing until my motor was seemingly holding pressure or bleeding off very slowly. I do have a leak in the exhaust which was bleeding off and there may be one or two more in the intake that I didn't come across, but once I did this and fixed all my leaks it made a huge difference. Like you I was going through every piece of electrical, pulling injectors and flow testing them, swapping out mafs, sensors, fuel pump regulators, etc. Also I did have my FPR set a little high which helped straighten things out when I brought it down.

I did one of these before and almost worked out, but the guy said what he had didn't fit. Anyway with the warm weather returning I'm getting ready to work on my Z more and I was hoping to find someone who has the brake line adapter nuts from a factory brake master cylinder. This way I can just keep the lines normal size instead of re-flaring them. So if anyone has these, please feel free to e-mail me: duowing@gmail.com or send me a PM. I'm located in Cleveland, OH 44143 as far as shipping purposes go, but I figure with these being so small it shouldn't cost much.

I went the S2000 seat route for mine. Still haven't put the passenger seat in, but the way I made the bracket for the driver's seat it just misses the cat hump, but sits a little high. My plan is to eventually try and remake the brackets to lower the seat a bit and if need be, just beat in the hump enough to make it clear. The S2000 seats, at least to me, are really nice and have a really good look. I had a guy who's redoing an old 911 asking me about my seat because he liked how good it looked for the car. He was considering putting S2K seats in his 911.

Thanks guys I appreciate it. I feel dumb for posting, I always forget about McMaster-Carr yet I've ordered so much from them.

I've been using a bosch 044 inline fuel pump in my attempt to get a quieter pump and get rid of my fuel problems. One issue I can't seem to get rid of is the fact that I cannot get it to seal on the inlet. I ordered the metric to hose barb adapters for the pump. The inlet is 18mm x 1.25 I believe. Anyway it came with an aluminum washer that I cannot seem to get to seal. I tried an o-ring that came with the 18mm x 1.5 oil drain plug from the auto parts store. This seemed to work, but is already leaking as I think it's deteriorating. My outlet is fine, but I'm using the brass/copper or whatever it was crush washer that the pump came with. Anyone have any suggestions where I can get a washer/ring/seal that will work? Should the aluminum one work, maybe I'm not tightening it enough?

Still looking for these if anyone has them

Hey I wanted to see if anyone happens to have the fittings on hand from an OEM 280Z brake master cylinder. I'm referring to the fittings thats attach into the bottom of the cylinder that the brake lines then fit into so I can adapt the original brake line size/nut to the wilwood instead of having to cut and rrflare my lines. I tried to get the fittings through Nissan, but they are apparently no longer available. If anyone happens to have these then let me know. You can PM me or e-mail me at: duowing@gmail.com Thanks!

Any update on this? I really want to know how to take apart the hatch lock so I can swap this new one for my old one and have one key. The hatch lock I have doesn't fit my 76'.

Well it's been a little while. Did a 100+ mile drive in the Z today, farthest I've driven it since the motor swap. Anyway I mounted the fuel pump a little lower since last time, but I feel like I could still go a little lower. It was in the high 80s maybe 90 degrees today and I got off the freeway after about 50 miles to stop and get gas and just like normal I could hear the pump whining away. I don't know why it gets so loud. Fuel pressure still drops a little, but sitting lower and horizontal has helped. I drove it the remaining 50 some miles back with no problem and even got on it pretty good at times. Had no sputtering/loss of power issues so the car seems to be running really good. I ran it up to over 5k in 4th gear so I should have seen some sign of problems if the fuel pump would start causing problems. I just wish I could figure out why the pump gets so dang loud. Or how to remedy it.

Well I cut up the original mounting plate for the fuel pump a bit more and now have my Bosch pump mounted horizontally in the exact same spot where the original pump was. Pump still did get a bit noisy, but I really couldn't hear it until I got back and into a quiet garage where the sound could be amplified. Also I think I fixed the leak at the pump feed fitting, also it was under 70 degrees today making it much cooler so that could make a difference. Overall at least pump noise seemed like a huge improvement. It could simply be that these things do not like vertical mounting. I'm thinking I might try and get some metal and make a bracket to mount the pump just a little lower so the entire pump body will be below the fuel tank output barb. Edit: I kinda keep forgetting that the pump is more than likely going to make noise no matter what, I'm just not sure how loud a pump should normally be. I also don't know if my regulator could be partly to blame? Anyway today when I finished my drive I was sitting at about 25psi which is spec for stock L28ET at idle, but when I pull the vacuum line from the regulator it's only hitting a little over 30psi. When the car is cold and has sat for a few hours I can go hit the key to do the 5-second prime and my gauge will be hitting nearly 40psi. I would think pulling the vacuum line should cause the fuel pressure to jump to where I have the regulator set at.

Actually I've switched to the Bosch 044 and I'm still having the same issues. Pump getting loud after a while and fuel pressure dropping, but I don't have it mounted even with the bottom of the tank. I mentioned in previous post it's mounted vertically so really it's seeing only about half way up the body of the pump where the tank output is. I'm going to try to mount it horizontally with the bottom of the tank so it will have to not do any pulling to fill the pump and gravity will completely fill it.

I'm starting to really believe what was said that these pumps are meant to be fuel pushers and not pullers. I'm beginning to wonder if my noisy pump is simply because the way it's mounted is not letting the body be completely fuel filled by gravity. It's still have to pull to fully fill and then push the fuel.

Well took the car for a drive today. Still did the same thing. Noisy and lower fuel pressure. After everything was all warmed up the relay was still getting hot, but I was still only seeing a .3-.35v drop between pump + terminal and the relay out so definitely an improvement in there. I also think the relay getting hot is really not as much of an issue as I thought. I turned the car off, pulled the hot relay and popped in a spare I pulled from the yard that was cool. I was still seeing the same voltage across the relay and to the pump. I need to run the ground wire for the star ground setup when I get some more time. I got a cheap Airtex low pressure electrical pump. So I think I'm going to go ahead and at least try for a dual pump setup to see if that helps. At least this pump is little so I can mount it horizontal. I don't know if having the Bosch or my Walbro mounted vertically causes a problem. My pump is mounted in such a way that maybe only half of it sits below the tank output, maybe this is part of the reason. Maybe these pumps really just don't like having to do any sort of pulling of fuel? Also I noticed that my Bosch pump leaks a little bit at the inlet to the pump. Either the fitting isn't tight enough or that washer that came with the fitting isn't acting like a very good seal. At least like was mentioned I've eliminated the wiring portion of this equation...

Depending on which relay you're asking about, the bigger one I pulled from a 96' Nissan Quest. It was a box labeled ABS. I pulled the relay, along with the relay connector and everything so I could wire it up. The smaller relay, I ordered through Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P61E36/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 Unfortunately I'm not sure how the wiring works for the 280Z fuel pump. It's been a while since I've even had my fuel pump relays even wired the original way. I've been using the Z31 ECU setup for a few years now. The pins are numbered on the bottom of the relay. The main power for fuel pump goes to pin 30 and then the power that then goes from relay to fuel pump is attached to pin 87 I think the number is. Then the 2 wires that trigger the relay would go to 85 and 86. From what I remember at least is that the green wire on the 280Z is what went to the pump. I think the blue is what feeds the main power to the relay. Unfortunately you'd have to look through some wiring diagrams.

Well almost done rewiring the pump. Routing the wiring through the interior of the car and the quarter panel was a pain, but I managed to get it through so it all looks relatively stock. Did brand new 10 gauge wiring from pump negative terminal to where the tailights ground in the back. The power wire is a straight shot from the relay in the passenger foot well to the pump positive terminal. So at the very least as was mentioned I should be seeing a much smaller to no voltage drop back at the pump which I'm hoping finally solves my issue. I would have tried driving the car except my mini-torch ran out of butane as I was going to make the last solder connection and now it's about to rain... Well other than having a heck of a time trying to solder 10 gauge wire everything is finally connected up. I'm not happy with the solder joint from the relay to the pump. I think I'm going to have to redo that. Does rain/high humidity make it harder to solder? Anyway it was a downpour outside so I didn't take the car out for a drive, but I started it up and let it idle. With a different voltmeter set to 20 DCV I was seeing about 14.1-14.15 coming from the relay. Back at the pump I was seeing about 13.85v. I wish I would have measured on the original wiring when everything was coming from a cold start, but I would definitely say seeing as the pump has a much shorter direct to chassis ground with 10 gauge wire vs. the old tiny wiring, along with much larger wiring feeding the positive and I'm still seeing 13.85 I can begin to see what was mentioned about the old wiring being definitely too tiny. Really hoping this finally solves my problem.

That's an interesting take on it and something I'll have to check. I know even when it's noisy the pump maybe feels slightly warm to the touch if that. At least nothing to the point that I noticed there being a problem. I'm thinking I'll have to change up the wiring for sure. I've started to build a star ground setup for my car. I didn't do too much, but as of right now I do have a ground setup running from the firewall to the negative terminal of the battery. I ran another to my grounding point for my HIDs and then a third running to the other side of the car which I intend to branch off for the ECU and main harness. I'll probably now run one to the back of the car for the rear lights and I could then connect the fuel pump to this with larger wire. The surge tank + low pressure pump is something I will probably add as well. I remember the shop that did the tank mentioning they cut out some kind of baffling or screen that was in the tank as when they blasted the tank that it fell apart or was really too small to properly blast and keep in tact. So I don't know if this could contribute? As for the relays I'll have to play around and see if I can clean up the contacts more and see if I can result in lower voltage drop. I would definitely think though that part of the issue in the drop I'm seeing probably comes from using an auto-ranging voltmeter which makes it hard to get a more definite reading. As for the relays themselves I feel like they should definitely be a better upgrade for the fuel pump. Thanks for the info though. It's something I'm going to work with and see if the wiring + relay contacts can improve the situation. Also here's a few pics comparing pretty much what I was using to the new relays I'm using.

I had my tank professionally cleaned and reconditioned, but I don't know with this. I'm almost debating doing what was said in that thread in the FAQ section about running a smaller low pressure pump prior to the main pump.

Alright I have been going round and round with this for a while now, but I can't quite seem to solve this issue. I'm running the Bosch 044 inline pump. No filter in between pump and tank. Anyway after driving for a while particularly freeway driving for a little while I can get off the freeway and suddenly my fuel pump will be really loud. Generally when this happens fuel pressure has dropped as well. I'll be checking the underhood rail mounted gauge at idle and I'll see usually idle pressure is down from where it should be. Generally almost 20 psi vs 25-27psi. Also I've noticed the relays will be pretty hot. I still don't know how warm/hot relays are supposed to get when running for a while. I know the relay for the parking lights with the upgrade gets pretty warm itself after running for a while. Anyway I ran a 12 gauge wire from my Maxifuse blocks to my Fuel Pump Relay. No difference. Swapped in a 20/30amp Tyco Relay and it seemed to still end up doing the same thing. JeffP was telling me to go to a junkyard and look for earlier Infinitis that have ABS, as they have a generally larger Bosch relay with much larger connections that should be better off for supporting something like the fuel pump. Anyway I couldn't find what he was talking about, but I found a set of larger relays on the Quest that is used for the Quest's ABS system. The relays use a rounded pin connection so I took the relays and block and swapped those in. It's a a set of 2 Bosch relays one being a 6 pin relay and the other is a 4 pin. It says that they are 50amp relays so I figured this should be enough to support the Fuel Pump wiring. It seemed to last a good while, but still eventually the pump started to get louder. Although I did notice this time it looked like idle fuel pressure was just about 25psi maybe slightly lower, so an improvement. I was seeing at most 14.1v into the relay, about at most 13.9v coming out of the relay, and finally about 13.1v all the way back at the pump. Stupidly I didn't test the pump voltage right when I started the car to at least see if it's getting higher voltage when the relay is cool and everything is running. One thing I haven't done is redo the pump wiring. I'm still running the original wire from the 76' body from the pump all the way to the connector near the passenger seat. From that connector I then have a newer wire running to the relay. I'm just looking for some advice. I figure the next thing maybe even the necessary thing to do would be to re-wire the pump ground and power to be at least 14 gauge wire running straight to the the relays with no interruptions. As for fuel system, I'm running a pretty much stock L28ET motor with the Z31 ECCS setup. Also do you guys think these relays would be sufficient enough?

From my own experience here I'm beginning to wonder if part of the fuel pump being noisy/acting up issue is what I've been encountering and what I've found jeffp seemed to encounter and has said. Basically from what I've gathered thanks to jeffp is that these old relays and wiring are not up to par to really support aftermarket higher flowing pumps. My issue seems to be that my pump will start to get loud after a little while of driving and the relay begins to get quite warm, to hot and I'll see a drop in fuel pressure. I'm wondering if like with the OP installing a low flow pump which really won't require higher voltage/amperage which then feeds the main pump takes a lot of load off the main pump making it super quiet and also taking strain off the electrical system? I'm almost debating getting a small pump or installing my original 280Z pump before my Bosch and seeing if suddenly the issue of fuel pump whine along with fuel pump relay heat goes away.

I still seem to notice a drop with blinkers even after doing the parking light relay upgrade, upgrading my headlights to HIDs with their own relays, I'm running pretty much nothing else in the car at the moment and I'm running well it's supposed to be a rebuilt 280ZX Turbo alternator. I notice that the dash lights will kind of dim and brighten with the blinkers. Battery cables and connections are new, clean, tight. Alternator belt is nice and tight. It's not bad, but noticeable.

When the CHTS is unplugged the ECU basically ignores all sensors and runs off it's pre-determined maps, but part of that is also the fact that those pre-determined maps are also somewhat designed to get you around, but at least as I understand you'd essentially be in limp mode. When the CHTS is unplugged the car will generally run more rich. When everything is working properly the car will then run as it's supposed to, but with a bad CHTS basically these things default to where the car is thinking it's running extremely cold and it's just dumping fuel and making the car run really rich which makes it bog, backfire, idle poorly, etc. I would say replace your CHTS and go from there. I believe the sensor isn't too expensive.

I know it's a dumb question, but have you replaced the CHTS? Also when/if you replaced it did you replace it with a CHTS from a 280ZX or a CHTS from a Z31? I swear I read somewhere that the Z31 CHTS is slightly different and that it doesn't seem to operate correctly if you use it on the L28. Also is your O2 sensor hooked up and working? Also check the ECU codes. Another thing I've read is that if the Z31 chopper wheel is placed in the Crank Angle Sensor upside down the car won't run right, but I've heard it won't idle so I don't know on that one. Have you tried shaking the harness connected to the ECU to make sure there's not a wiring problem somewhere? Also when was the last time you replaced your coil/igniter?

This sounds like every problem I ever have. I always take the long way around fixing a bunch of other things that weren't necessary at the time only to find out it was something super simple.