nazar

i got a rebuilt 355ci lt1 with just a few miles with high po pistons and rings so no worries for me id love a blower eventualy but it may be too much i rather keep it sinple and reliable my setup should do high 11's as it sits and thats enough for me

wow that thing is heavy im hopin for 10s with a 125 shot on my 355 lt1, still stock heads though but its a 71 240, so im hoping for a dry weight of 2500lb

awesome i plan to do 2 1/4" to a single 3" on mine but i dont have those humps in my t56 support i just used a straight bar think i can clear over the top with it or under it?? damn cant wait to get an exhaust on mine straight shortie header is loud and poppy, lol get some videos

started it up reved it and everything is good and straight and looks good actually turned out better than i thought last thing left is to button up the rearend

q45 is a 4 bolt flange i wonder where i can get oem infinity q45 bolts from?

Finishing up my rear end and cant figure out where to get the bolts to hold the flanges together i know i need just enough smoothness to span the thickness of both flanges and not too much thread to where its too long what have you guys used?? What size bolt? Strength? I assume i can use stock q45 bolts but where can i get them? Can i order those from infinity? Since my flange and diff are identical those should work best??

its open headers and i think its got a cam in it if you think, its no different then a regular 350 from the old days, but with fuel injection, its still a v8 and will still sound gnarly Very cool, I am hoping to be doing the EXACT same thing tomorow, I cant wait, just the halfshafts left, which will be here tomorow morning I can only imagine the feeling of driving it under its own power...

i ended up using the stock big top mount for the alternator and made a bracket to hold 2 pulleys to route the belt up, oh well, it doesnt look too bad and it works

yea i really wanted the 17" drag radials for street use, and probably would have been good enough at the track, now im stuck with sumitomo street tires and i know they wont hook at the track or on the street We'll see I guess, I may just get some 15" wheels and slicks for the track, but on the street my 17"s are still gonna be problamatic i think

wow...shoulda got drag radials then huh ? For daily driving Damn.... I have an lt1 with all bolt ons, electric water pump, hotcam, 1.6 rockers, good exhaust and intake and no accessories, with tuning I am hoping to get about 340whp or so. Should have done the bfg 275/40/17 drag radials huh....

As I have read on here before I was glad to find out Dave really does stand by his word and products He completely took care of me and I greatly appriciate it and I should have it back by this weekend which is awesome Otherwise, the brakes are awesome, they fit perfectly, look great and for the price, especially when I compare to other big brakes Ive had before on other cars, you can't beat his deal, a complete race willwood setup for under $1k is a steal, at less than $800 its awesome. Thanks dave

i got a q45 rear end, mosler axles and 280z stubs, i dont think i'll be breaking anything in that department I was hoping that the 275 width would help me some with traction power wise i will be right around 330-340whp

Ok guys My setup is a 355ci lt1 with a cam and t56 tranny to a q45 vlsd rear end and mosler halfshafts I am running 275/40/17 sumitomo htrz tires out back on a 9.5" wheel Car is lowered, motor is mounted jtr style WHat are your predictions for my traction, both on the street and at the track? I am kinda kicking myself in the *** for not getting drag radials on those wheels instead of the sumitomos, but will i be surprised at the traction? Will it be pretty good with the setup I have off the line? Will i get traction in 2nd from a roll??? The car will be road worthy this weekend and I will be taking it around the block on its first trip this saturday!!!

Ok guys, heres a bit of good news. I went out and bought a lokar 36" LS1 throttle cable It worked out great and looks very clean and proffesional. The throttle body adapter is a little brass fitting with a hole and allen screw to tighten down the cable. The round hole in the lt1 tb arm had to be slightly drilled out bigger, slightly. The brass fitting fit right in, the throttle cable tightened down and fit like a glove. The lokar cable then bolted to the stock tb bracket like a glove and looks very cool. Then at the firewall, i used a bigger washer and otherwise the lokar fittings went right in. Then at the pedal the lokar kit worked by simply heating up the stock pedal end and bending the tab so that it points into the firewall, and the round hole sits left/right, then the lokar bracket accepts the pedal end perfectly and is held in with a small tab and c clips at the ends All in all it was a very clean install, i had to trim the cable about 10" and it sits perfectly, is fully adjustable and by removing the throttle stop adjuster that was in my car, i get full throttle sweep Couldnt be happier, the lokar kit cost $60 i think

you dont cut the tank out and put the sump on, you simply cut out 4 or so round holes where the sump will sit and weld the sump after. this will create a natural baffle that works great a lot of people cut more holes which negates the effect, 3-4 1" holes is plenty for the fuel to get through and into the sump, check out my sump, i got it from a board member because it fits way better then anything else, is contoured to the tank and only hangs 1.5" lower then the tank, i tried the summit sumps, they are too big and too deep

they come out of the ecu, he wired in leads, its part of the package that he does to the stock harness

ok the more i think about it and more diagrams i look at the more i want to do something about it Look at this diagram: now, why do people gut the power steering pump to use as a pulley? Why not just completely remove the power steering pump THen, get an AC delete pulley kit(all over ebay) and route the belt from the top of the crank pulley under the tensioner, up to the alternator, down around the ac delete pulley and back to the bottom of hte crank pulley, hopefully clearing the tensioner??? This was my idea...any thoughts?

5" backspacing

i had a shop do it all, and there are no leaks, and it fits great 16 gallons? really? Thats awesome, plenty for me

this is how i was going to do them, since the azc kit requires 280z front hubs, i got one from allzcar specialist Had the rotors mounted to the hub and torqued down and this is how he was going to turn them, and said it was too out of round to turn I was going to turn the whole assembly as a whole anyways, to get the truest cut and have them perfect, the passenger side was straight, the drivers was too far out of round for him to turn, he said most of the rotor thickness would have to be eaten away!!!!