RIP260Z

And came across this, which may help someone... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-Hitachi-SU-Carburettor-Kit/231473887086?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3De1859d6880134c7ebe32b6c25f73304a%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D231473887086

We have the "boat anchor brigade "( mainly through reading from other "boat anchors") over in Europe too, though thankfully things are a changin'. Though the damage has been done with Nissan selling little or no spares for these, most of what spares they held went to the dump. Also with set up, there are marks on some of the parts for correct line up positions. Those of you who want to persevere get hold of the Nissan workshop manual for proper setup, there is more in it than what Xnke put up.

George I presume wants the old school ones, not any superseeded part numbers or more modern built ones. They are out there with the old numbers as I have had luck finding them through here.

Just to add.... The power valve comes apart, and the valves inside the aluminium housing are brass, and usually clock up with carbon deposits. There is an aftermarket refurb kit for the valves out there though I haven't seen one for a while. Here in the UK we had the flat top carbs for about 4 years during its production period, and there isn't any spares left, I grabbed what little was left. If I remember rightly, having good/correct fuel pressure is also key. Make sure the float is set correctly. These carbs have small fuel bowls and its good to have good fuel pressure to keep these full and refreshed with cooler fuel. Make sure your needle taper isn't worn (oval) as this means bad fuel metering. These carbs are good, just because the boat anchor crew say so doesn't mean it is. Its only adjusting fuel, air and vacuum......

Can't help you on this, but have you considered moving it back as well? One of the S30 racers over here back in the day (1973 or 4- Big Sam) had this done. I presume you are looking to aid handling/wt distribution? Good luck.

Thanks to a huge amount of help, Leon (member here) helped me out with a set of Bilstein P30-0062 rear shocks (yellow). Now I am looking for the fronts P30-0061 (which are usually green in colour, though did purchase a pair of greens which had the rear part no). Good money paid for a used set that can be re-built. I know I can go with the modified Rabbit set, but first option first. I know its a tall order, but you never know.... Cheers Ian

Well, if you decide to sell....I am away for a couple of weeks from Friday, so don't fret if you don't hear from me..

Long shot (even though missed some sold on here last week).... after the NLA Bilstein front or rear strut inserts. These came as yellow for rear (part no. P30 062) or green (P30 061), anything....

Off the top of my head Kameari do a 3.16:1 for the R200, but it is a long way off junkyard price....

Yes Servo is brake booster. The holes on the master cylinder need elongating to fit onto the servo studs and the servo pushrod needs trimming. Never tried fitting with adaptor plate, as following old "how to do". Not same studs that fit to firewall.

I have the late 280zx system on my servo. The holes need to be elongated to fit the bolt pattern on the servo (not by much), as said earlier fits onto the servo the other way. This master works without the spacer that is on the early 280zx and S30 (that goes between the servo and the master cylinder). This means the two bolts that are not used on the servo can foul the master reservoir. These need cut down a bit. Also the center rod out of the servo (that pushes the piston in the master cylinder) needs also to be cut down. Otherwise it will constantly pushing the brakes on. Hope that helps

I have a twin cable system fixed to the top of the middle carb and both cables run across the engine (being RHD)

That will be me then.... Love it. Nearly 3 years old, only got the 1 liter, but over here a liter of petrol is £1.37 (about $2.05). Great fuel economy (about 60mpg normal, 70+mpg when absolutely trying). Handles well (quite firm suspension [which maybe different spec the the North American market]), grips nicely. Since only small engine, best to keep the car moving, rather than braking and excellerating, which is an excuse to chuck her into some bends (which is a hoot). Quite happily have 4 people. Plenty of space once the rear seats are down. Happily have another.

Saw this for sale on Yahoo Japan a wee while go, put it this way, the seller wanted more than $50 for the auction.

dpuma8, I had serious trouble with mine, though my situation maybe a little different. My filler pipe was fine when I changed for a new tank, but restoration 18 months later(which took a few years) I could not get it back on. I think mine had shrunk, so there was no way of getting it back on. I had to take the filler pipe off the car, hit some heat, push it on the tank (off the car) and leave it for a few days so it retained the size. Putting it back on after that was easy. The other way, is buy a new pipe if you can afford (are avail.) Good luck

EF Ian Briefly...I have seen this car for sale in the UK and it looks OK, but needs a proper look over (if you have not done so) as the European S30 was very prone to rust. However it looks good. I try and focus my knowledge on European late 260z's (as I own one). The registration year is a bit of a guide only, chassis number would tell me. For instance, I owned a 1977 (built) that was not registered until Feb 1980 and substantially younger (chassis number wise) than my current one. The European late 260z is nothing like a North American 280z, being probably the pinnacle of the export S30 SERIES (in terms of overall handling/power/drivabilty/interior comfort in standard form). The European 240z and 260z have an interchangeable front body parts/ bumpers/ indicators generally speaking, but may have slight differences. I hope that helps, Cheers Ian

I got a set of these bushes and put them in, lucky I kept the email (from 2005!). I think they are made by Doorman, though the email says: MOTORMITE BUSHING KITS and the part no. is 38386. Easy to fit as others have said, kit has two pins and 4 bushes

The picture of the Z432 Leon posted, is not sitting on Z432 magnesium wheels, from what I can see it is sitting on Works Rally wheels (originals or replicas). Similar unless looked at together. The Z432 magnesium wheel has a protruding center to the wheel, with a cap.

Josh, Conversation moved on a bit since you asked...my Rebello is a street application. On post 19 you mentioned a 45mm bore and at the front, there is a step making the carb bore a little bit bigger. If I remember correctly, this is for an o ring to sit in so there is a nice air tight fit for the air horn/trumpet to sit on. just info here....You mentioned you like to stick to Webers 'cos you know them, but the same type of jets are used (e.g names), just a different way of numbering the sizes for Dellorto, and probably for PHH's as well. Cheers Ian

Josh817, If 48mm sound like a happy medium, what about 48mm Dellortos? A bit hard to find in the US (I think). I am running this size on my Rebello built 3.2l

deja, The clips are NLA. These were only on the later S30's, the likes of the 240z was just a push on for the drip rails. Cheers Ian

My type 2 one from MSA needed trimming also.

Took a couple of minutes to find a pic of mine....same? If so, my one has a 225mm contact area.

Ryan, Is this the aluminium Tilton flywheel with a replaceable contact area (with loads of nuts on the underside)....?

For me, I see a lot of stacked cut down washers to take up the difference in height between the inlet and exhaust manifold....just not right. I had my inlet triple manifold (generic) machined to take the OEM thick washers (also all the same height) and be the same height as my exhaust manifold. This made life soo much easier and hopefully applying clamping force to both manifolds.