RIP260Z

Chaps, I see where you are coming from. Can I just add to the thought processes (whether right or wrongly) A factory option on the 280z (North American spec, as seen on the parts microfiche) the electric fan takes its thermostat reading from an in-line housing on the radiator hose going back into the engine.. I think (though I have no experience of) the same thing is set up on the 300zx? Posted my Zmanco (I tried quoting) But I can't see how that location is better at determining the engine's cooling temp than the factory location at the bottom side of the thermostat. Is this not just where the factory design takes the engine temp, and goes to the gauge so the driver to see, and is not connected to an electric fan, though maybe to an ECU? Surely to determine the engine's cooling temp, would suggest after the radiator (its had its cooling)? So, would the thinking be it is preferable to have the coolant going back into the engine at the "correct operating temp" (whatever that is) after any cooling has been done by the radiator/air flow, as in the OEM option?

Thanks 310z and NZeder. We have a chap from the USA over here in the UK, who rallies a 240z (rather well) and he wanted his rally car to look as near to the original works rally car, so he commisioned a small production run of 14" and 15" copies. 14" for the "loose stuff" and the 15" more tarmac events. I was just lucky enough to be around to be offered a set (I brought 6) in the 15". From what I understand both small batches are spoken for. Only 20 were made in 15". The huge upfront cost of making this batch (and the two batches I know were made in Japan [in 14" only])means it could be a long time before another batch is made, if at all. These wheels were for sale on Ebay.com last month, but definately not cheap, but cheaper than the aluminium 14" copies(used)that are on Yahoo Japan at the moment for about £7000!! I am very pleased with the set I have, even more so now they are painted.

Not quite in the same vein as the aftermarket wheels on here, but considering it is a wheel and some of you would like to see..... 15"x7, 0 offset, copies of the original Nissan Works Rallye wheel from the early 1970's, but scaled up to be 15" instead of 14". In Magnesium... painted with a polished lip.

Caen, The subject heading is cam choice.. what is wrong with your fast cam? Do you want to change this? And if so, to what? The next logical step is to a "race cam" but I take it the engine is mainly for the road. Do you know what the specifications the fast cam you have...or am I missing something?

Just for info... carrying on from what brokebolt says when fitting the maxima brackets (44155-04S10) that longer bolts are needed to fix these on than the old drum back plate bolts. I just brought the Maxima bolts (08184-0251A) that hold the bracket in place, so I knew they would be right length/grade/pitch. Maybe worth ordering these when the brackets are ordered....

Soullessjdog, In my humble opinion its not going to be easy to get the 350hp you are looking for from a 3.1. Even my Rebello stroker (3.2l) with all their years of experience they are only getting those sorts of figures on their race engines. It takes a lot of effort to get 100bhp to the litre, let alone above that for a N/A. As for the Kameari distributor, its very nice, but won't liberate a whole lot more horses than say the standard 280zx one, especially with a price ratio taken into consideration. Go with a crank fire distributorless system if you want say with throttle bodies. The throttle bodies (with their tuning ability) will probably give you a few more horses over triples. You may get to where you want horse wise with a N/A stroker, but have some deep pockets

Maybe wrong here, but I thought a good quality front damper like a BHJ one (which is heavy) would be better as it would quell the harmonics with the 3.1L..... more important it is balanced... as even my BHJ one needed a bit of balancing.

Thank you for your reply TimZ

Slightly straying off topic....as this is turbo and the thread has pointed to an external coating only and hence whether what colour is better for radiating heat, but what about if its an N/A exhaust manifold that is coated inside and out? Would the same apply? I presume that the thermal barrier inside would reflect heat back in, and if it was black say, would this radiate the heat back into the manifold (in the same way if external, but to the sorounding components). Does that make sense?

pjo046, Just because you live in Norway, does not mean you can't have someone do your cylinder head work. Braap done mine and shipped it via FedEx (a bit under $200), and instead of sending yours, ask the person you decide to do the work to source you one in the US...

It looks like the pipework from the cylinder head to the turbo is made in stainless steel. As it is a HKS item I would expect it to be well made. Yasin, at a guess this was made for the JDM market, there maybe a chance it won't fit the LHD S30 as the steering system may get in the way, or be very close.

Saw this for sale in the UK, anyone seen or had any experience of this (no I did not buy it)... just curious....or anyone any general comments. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=250301588838

Here is mine...

Tony, I agree with your thoughts on the twin pipe system. I was lucky enough to be given a Japanese aftermarket Z432 sports system to copy (which I had done in stainless steel). All I had to do was put a " small downward kink" into one of the pipes so that it would not bang on the diff/ rear suspension. The reason was since the system was designed for a slightly smaller diff, it could catch onto the larger R200 diff, especially if running lowered suspension. Oh, and pipe size is 60mm, will be running on a Rebelllo stroker. Cheers Ian

Tim, As I said I've got one of these KEW tensioners, and I just sent it to Rebello when I had my engine built. They like it and have no issues with it, otherwise they would have advised me against using it. They are expensive, but they are superbly made. The roller bearing used instead of the standard tensioner, has a little oilway machined into the back, to feed the roller bearing. Ian

Noted 1 FAST Z. I intend to take it to a chassis dyno where factors that can give different figures are marginalized (like the dyno has been calibrated properly). But the main point in updating this thread was for Paul's benefit, as he done the head in the first place. As you can tell from his post, Paul is pleased, and so am I. At least those people using a Rusch Motorsports head (or intend to) know the work has been praised by someone else with a good pedigree. Ian

Just a quick update for now, on whats happened to the cylinder head Paul done for me. I was going to incorporate it into a engine I was going to build. But I changed my mind and decided to get the 3.1 engine built right first time. So, I sent my LD28 crank, Rusch cylinder head, Dellortos inlet manifold and some other bits, to Rebello Racing. Dave Rebello was impressed with the flow Paul's cylinder head produced, considering Paul is currently not using a flow cabinet, and only required slight tweaking to get the required flow figures. The engine dyno produced peak bhp of 309.7 @ 6400rpm and 283.3lbs torque @ 5000rpm. So, the engine is now back in England (the first of its kind) waiting to go in the car. Thanks goes to Dave Rebello for putting my engine together, but also to Paul for doing the cylinder head in the first place. I am sure Paul is pleased to have his work judged and praised by such a quality engine builder. Regards Ian

You can add another one who has this Kamaeri setup on this site....me, its gone on my new engine

Olderthanme, I agree with what you say, but I thought the orginal opener to this thread made no mention to being turboed.....

As already said, it can be cheaper if you do it yourself, but don't expect any great hp/torque numbers. The component short block parts were not designed to work together, so its the putting the engine theory/machining and assembly together that makes it work, either with a good machinist or assemlbler, or both. What has not been mentioned, is the work/cam that needs to be done to the cylinder head to make the sort of power a stroker can produce. If you want to go the 3.1 route, expect to throw some LARGE amounts of money at like Greenmonster80 has (and so am I [KEW timing and Dellortos]). There are other ways as have been suggested that will be cheaper. Just my thoughts.....

All that needs saying is, absolutely top quality, excellent.

http://zhp.satokikaku.com/zgazou/s.jpg Or you could use the OEM fuel pump bracket, found on both US and Australian zeds (though not on all models). (Oh and also Japan... this pic not mine, but it shows you what it is) There are threaded holes on the chassis already. Its intended for carbed cars, but as you see on the pic, its a perfect place to mount a injection pump too. Hope that helps Ian

Rebird, This is where I get my Dellorto parts from. http://www.racecar.co.uk/dellorto/ Though due to the weak Dollar/Pound and shipping, you may find it cheaper to look at Tony D's response....but here is the link anyway... Ian

Hi JayZ, The set up is not on the car (as being restored), but I can take some photos over the weekend. Do you want a photo of the way the cables attach to the throttle pedal/ through the bulkhead (firewall) as well as the carbs? Regards Ian

JaysZ, This does not probably help, but, I have not used their product, but it does look a bit like the cable going from my throttle pedal to my triples (but mines a twin cable set-up). A couple of the bits in the photo you posted, are the arms that go onto the spline on the Mikuni. The cable set-up does make for a smooth action. Cheers Ian