kalium99

Let me get this straight. Are you saying you've got oversized valve seats with standard size valves....? How does this work? Cheers

How come you took it off out of interest? I bought a complete motor and went to do up the head (N42) and found out that it was too badly corroded. Needed a head badly so just pulled the first one I saw. Was quite suprised that it turned out to be something like a small chambered P90 of sorts! Tiny intake ports on those then! If anyone wants to try out one of those bad boys my mate has an 05L for sale here in Australia.

I wish I had pics. I have seen some floating around before though. They seem to be a good head. I think 40cc combustion chamber IIRC.

ozconnection, I have a late model E88 head which appears to have the same combustion chamber as your Y70 head. Hmm, I know it has smaller valves but didn't measure the intake ports to see if they are as small as the Y70. I wonder if they are? Also I imagine the 05L head would also be small in port size like the Y70 ? Cheers

No I have had this problem ever since I have had the car, and that involves a few tyre changes as well. Im also leaning towards a U joint, the only thing that makes me skeptical is that the mechanic I took it to is a zed guru and knows his stuff. He was actually a bit baffled, as the U joints felt fine. OH well, I have some new Uni's laying around so I will try putting them in and see how I go.

I have a bizzare vibration and sound coming from my rear end somewhere. Its a constant "thunk-thunk-thunk" that comes from just behind my shoulder and gets louder as the wheels turn faster. I have replaced my diff mount (which did fix the lound clunk sound that I used to get when taking off or slowing down) and have also replaced the wheel bearing on the side where the sound seemed to be coming from. Even if I cruise in neutral the sound and vibration are still there. I took it to a mechanic and he said the u joints seemed fine. Could it be unbalanced halfshafts or driveshaft? Could the u joints appear fine but really be screwed? Is it worthwhile to go to a junkyard and pull form halfshafts to see if they are any better than mine ? Then engine is the standard L series as well with an R200 diff. Cheers Ray

There are a whole bunch of wangan midnight movies. I remember going down to the video store once and there were at least five IIRC. I'm not sure which one was posted for d/l, but the best one IMHO is the first one (I think..) which has the opening scene of the R33 GTR screaming along the freeway. Some of the others are a bit puss, Except of course for the fact they have a Z

When I was in japan I used to buy stuff off yahoo auctions and send it all over the place. Its next to impossible to do unless you have someone in the country who can get by in japanese, or through a pseudo organization that will bid on items for you and then charge you a percentage(I've seen a couple of these guys). Ray

Definately get an injector pulsar. Another tip, unlug all our spark plugs and put a portable fluro light just under the plug holes, and then turn your engine over. You should see fuel being spat out. If you see no fuel then your injectors are not firing. Also, get some starter fluid (not sure what they call it in the states, but its the stuffin a pressurised can you use to squirt into your intake to get it to start first thing in the morning). Squirt this stuff into the intake while you have someone crank it over. It should start/sputter/something. If it doesnt, check your timing. I wouldnt rely on being able to hear the injectors click just by standing back and turning the engine. The L series can be quite noisy. Like I said previously, use a long screwdriver. I went through this whole ordeal with an L24 ECU. From looking at your diagram it seems your ECU/Wiring is more complex. Can someone confirm that these ECU's use a earth switch from the coil/distributor to the ECU to switch the Injectors ? If this is the case find out where the wire goes to the ECU. Stick a testing pen on this wire , and clip it onto a + source. It should flicker. If it doesnt, it isnt being switched and injectors will never open. Also, pull one of the boots off an injector connector and make sure that both the connectors have power going to them. If they don't, trace the lines back... And you shouldnt need the condensor. If you have wires burning up it sounds like you could have a short...wires should not burn up. And yes, make sure you have fresh fuel. You will be suprised how much of a difference it can make. Sorry I cant be more specific, but like I said, I am not throughly familiar with your type of ECU (and you would be suprised how often/how much they changed wiring between year models). Ray

Just wondering what ratios were used in those boxes? Longer I'm assuming... It sounds kind of similar to the FJ box swap.

Im more familiar with NA Wiring, but I imagine it would be similar to turbo (please someone correct me If im wrong). Make sure that the injectors are not firing. Grab a long screwdriver and put the head up against the injector and your ear to the handle, you should hear it clicking as you turn the engine over (oh unplug your leads and/or your fuel pump). If you cant and you are getting power to the injectors, and the injectors (and ecu) have been replaced, then check the earth switch which should be a single wire from the coil to the ECU. When cranking the engine this should earth in a constant on/off/on/off fashion. Possibly some residual water has turned a connecting surface a wee bit rusty ??

Looks like an E88 skyline head

Hey Simon, How hard was making the mounts for the VG30DET? Did you get it with a G/B and were there any clearance issues ? How hard is it to work on the engine once you have it in there? (i.e tight tight spaces..) I have looked around and cant find many prices for them...how much did you pay for your if you dont mind me asknig. Cheers