MIBPreacher

Well I think I figured out some of my problems. My car was having a hard time idling ever since I took the air intake elbow off for painting, i broke a rubber hose that goes to the cold air idle thingamajigger. When I held my finger tight on that, it idled smoother after a few seconds and held there, but it was still high idle, at 1000 rpms. I took a look at the throttle cable and I found where I could apply some pressure and push the bracket assembly down some more and it would lower the idle to about 700rpms. It almost feels like its sticking as when I apply throttle, it doesnt go all the way back down again and goes to 1000 rpms. Any ideas on this? Then after seeing I had my power back, I temporary used some electrical tape to seal off the crack in the hose and I went and power braked my car. This was a nice feeling again, and I saw my temp gauge work all of the sudden, do you think my thermostat is sticking?

I have been having problems starting my car and I noticed today where I started my car and after finally getting it to idle, I looked at my temp gauge and it was non functional. I checked both the CTS and the CHTS and they are both plugged in, so I guess I need to replace a sensor?

Veritech My tail lights leaked in my 300zx, is it possible to pick up a tube of black silicone and seal them off? I used it in the crack between the lights and the body and I havnt leaked since. The water runs right over it. You cant really tell its there unless you are looking for it.

Hey Mike, I had a 1989 Nissan Hardbody 2x2 shortbed 5spd, and I added the chrome bumper so I could get access to a ball mount from the junk yard. I was able to tow a 1970's MFG 16 1/2 foot tri hull boat with a 85 hp outboard johnson with ease, I never overheated and I had no problems getting it off the ramp. I know my boat weighed more than any Z even if you put a fat lady in it... Here is the pic before I added the bumper I did have to raise the suspension back up before I started towing. If I remember correctly I was good for 3500lbs

It looks bent to me, I hope you get it fixed.

If I am understanding correctly, the T5 also came in the 300zx. Would Nissan have made different driveshafts for the 3 different transmissions they used? I am wondering if I could reuse my current driveshaft? Yeah it would be a daily driver, just around town, no racing other then to get to work. I now figure based on what you said, I am kind of limited in my search for a donor vehicle since I think on the Mustang or a pickup might have had the 5spd and the 302. (Now I am looking at more $ for parts... ) Length considerations I dont think will be a problem as with my current setup, and no stock fan, I believe i have about 10" to 1 foot of space before you hit the frame. It looks like I will try and reuse my original cross member and have someone fab the motor mounts? I did read in '85 ford beefed up some internals on the 302 which increased the HP. So I want to go with a 2 barrel as I would prefer gas mileage over extra HP. Mostly stock equipment, manifolds, etc to keep cost down.

OK I did some googling, and I see that the 289 is a longshot to get and wouldnt be cheap. I think this summer I am going to look for a mid 80s crown vic or conty and see if I can get it cheap. Pull the engine and its accessories, and have someone tow the car away. I read that the early 80's conty had throttle body injection. Would that be easier then a carb setup?

For those who have done this before, I had a couple of questions. After reading all the stories of the V8 motors and how fast everyone runs, and how much it costs to purchase and install the turbo equipment... I wanted to consider a small block v8 from ford. 289 or 302. A junk yard motor, pull it and have me and my son work on it together. I have a Nissan 5 speed, from an 84 300zx to swap into my Z. Its the FS5W71C. What I was thinking was this. 1. Has anyone ever attached a V8 to this tranny? Im not looking for a ton of horsepower, mostly like 200 or 225 range would be fine with me. 2. Can someone recommend a motor out of a certain car that would offer the easiest effort to swap? I could then wait for 1/2 price days at the picknpull. 3. The Z31 already has a cowl hood shape, so I dont expect it to be a problem with height limitations. Is there a particular store that sells the motor mount brackets? 4. How hard would you consider the electronics part of the swap to deal with? I want to go carburated to make things simple. 5. I was underneath my car the other day, I didnt see alot of room for dual exhaust on the passenger side? any recommendations on that? I already have the electric cooling setup with the Taurus fan. I wish someone would post a "how to" to get things rolling for us in the Z31 generation. Thanks for your time.

Sorry, the coolant temp sensor is on top of the head, where as the cylinder temp sensor is almost behind the timing chain cover.

on the top bolt, I was able to stick a drill bit, all i had that size and short enought to maneuver, inside the hole, I hit what I think was a gasket edge and was able to wiggle past it pretty deep. My next step if it would stop raining is to use a mirror and a bright flash light to see if I can see inside the holes. The exhaust mechanic said that the leak could cause my slight loping feeling in my idle, anyone believe that? Every 4 or so seconds, I get a bump in the rpms and vac gauge.

I have been looking for the wiring connector to replace that connects to my Cylinder head temp sensor. I was wondering with all the different models of vehicles that Nissan put the VG30 in, has anyone came across a newer model Nissan I could find that has the same connectors? The way they designed these current ones with the metal clips is ridiculous.

What I think would be cool is if you could hot form the acrylic to match the curvature, yet add in the vents and a functional 2" cowl induction hood. I think if you had the right thickness, it wouldnt matter how much you spent on your engine compartment goodies, I hear polycarbonate is extremely strong. Get a good alarm to sense any vibrations and the first whack to break it would set it off. I dont consider neon lights bling, as last I checked I havent seen any rappers wearing them around their neck. If you can make your car run faster than the man with diarrhea running to the crapper, than why not make it look nice too?

I found this website selling "hoods" that were clear acrylic but they dont make any for nissans. http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/exterior-euro-hoods.html But that is idea I am was thinking...Clear plexiglass, some led's to light up the bay at night...

Do you think this would do the job? Plastics This product matches all of your selections. Part Number: 8574K87 $238.85 Each Shape Sheets, Bars, Strips, and Cubes Sheets, Bars, Strips, and Cubes Type Square Sheet Thickness 1/2" Thickness Tolerance +.025" to -.025" Length 48" Length Tolerance +.625" Width 48" Width Tolerance +.625" Material Polycarbonate Polycarbonate Material Polycarbonate Clear Clear with No Tint Backing Plain Back Operating Temperature Range -40° to +240° F Performance Characteristic High Impact Strength and Flame Retardant and Weather Resistant Tensile Strength 9000 psi Impact Strength 12 ft.-lbs./in. Tolerance Standard UL Rating UL 972 and UL 94HB Specifications Met Underwriters Laboratories (UL) Hardness Rockwell R: 118

Is there anyone who has experience with plexiglass that could answer this? How thick can plexiglass be bought in? Do they sell or make it into large sheets? Is it flexible when you get to the thicker pieces? My idea was this, is it possible to replace the hood with a clear plexiglass cut to the same shape, mounted to the original hinges, and use the original locking mechanism? That would be cool looking. How thick do you think it would have to be?

Here is the latest update on my efforts, I took off my top timing cover and found a Napa timing belt that looked rather new so that was something to be happy about with over 250,000 miles. I also stopped by the junkyard and found another spoiler to replace the wing that came with it when I bought it. I only have the interior engine bay left to finish painting flat black, and I decided to paint my valve covers yellow and clear coat them. I am trying to find some yellow sparkplug wires like I seen on another Z owners car. So far this has been a lot of fun. My kids love the car.

The exhaust mechanic was able to stick a punch out tool pretty far into the hole. I have a theory which made me think that the original stud and bolt combo probably seized together w/ a possibility of them stripping the nut which when they finally got it out, they decided not to put it back in. On the pathfinder, is it possible to upgrade to the newer bolts? My engine is currently the studded application. Thanks everyone.

Last month, I had taken my Nissan into the Nissan customer care campaign where they give you a free 100pt inspection, I saw the mechanic shook his head as looked under my car, and the service manager scolded me for having 250,000 miles on my car. He told me that this car should have been kept in a garage with about 60,000 miles. I laughed at him and told him it was a daily dicer on the interstate commute. Anyways one of things they noted was an exhaust leak. I took it today to a muffler shop and he told me my exhaust was nice and still solid. Then he saw what was the problem. I am missing 2 studs on the middle of my exhaust manifold on the drivers side. I think someone was trying to take it off when they saw how hard it was going to be to get to it, decided not too. Anyways now I know I have an exhaust leak and where it is, but does anyone sell the studs new? I am not ready to do a turbo swap as thats alot of money, any ideas?

Hey Alf, I stopped by my local pick n pull yard, and I found an OEM spoiler in excellent condition, along with some other parts I needed. I went to the counter and laid everything down, the spoiler was upside down, with my other parts on top of it (gas door cable, TPsensor, etc.) she rang it up as a body moulding and I got it for 9.00! with the bolts, and the missing trim pieces for the hatch I got for free. I got the TP sensor for 14.00 I got the cable for 7.00 I got the spoiler for 9.00 I put it on right in the parking lot, looks real nice, will have to post the final pics next week.

These engines put out some heat I tell you, I drove through some really bad down pours this week. Didnt have any problems.

I am going for that factory look I see on some later model cars. What do you all think? I painted it a light metallic silver and put 4 layers of 500 degree engine clear coat on it. I took my dremel and grinded the screws rust off and installed the screws and then applied a couple extra layers of clear directly to the screws. I am going to do the valve covers, timing covers, and air intake pipes the same way, silver then clear it about 3 or 4 times. Can someone tell me if I take these other covers off if I can reuse the gaskets (rubber) or will I have to replace them (other than rubber)? I thought the rubber ones you could clean and reuse. Thanks. My overall goal is to paint the engine parts in the silver with clear coats, surrounding bay area flat black and use either red or yellow accents but probably not both. I want the engine to stand out, I think flat black does that best.

It definitley rides better without the spoiler I must admit. Anyone have factory spoiler they want to sell?