MIBPreacher

Sparks, can you send me a good pic of your air can? I am trying to figure out how all the hoses are connected, from the intake through the two hoses to the air can. I saw that I had three connections on my air can, and then I saw an older model 300zx cpe, and there was a bracket screwed into the top of the aircan and it had a vacuum nipple on it. A pic of your side of the engine bay would help out tremendously. Thanks, Rick

Dan, what year and model did you find this on? On mine, I saw under the carpet a 8" plate, wasnt sure if that was what you were referring to... Thanks, Rick

Me being the kinda person who likes to tinker, I installed the new switch, only the right side lights worked, lol. I took apart the switch to see how it worked and there is a simple plastic cover that snaps on, which when taken off, allows direct access to the terminals. I realized somethings when I inspected it. 1. The terminals get cruddy as if they are in a very extreme humid enviroment. 2 small flat head screw drivers would allow you to clean the contacts and makem shiny again. 2. The terminals can be bent back gently to restore clearance to keep the lights off when they are supposed to be off. Just passing this on.

Broke down after this weekend, the lights were turning on and off by them self like it was a christmas tree, caused my battery to die. I went to a junk yard and I bought a switch from them that doesnt seem to have the play in the twist mechanism that mine does, got it for 7.00 and the extra 2.99 in case it is bad and they will let me bring it back to the Hammond Pick -in- pull. Thanks

Was a little bored, so I thought I would look into why my OD light doesnt work. I pulled it all apart, and found a dead bulb. I am awaiting a shipment from an ebay purchase where I bought 10 orange 12v 3mm LED's and chrome mounts and I am going to drill a hole in the shifter slider plate and mount the light. Here is the link for the LED's.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7594309857&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 Here is the link for the mounts.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7594310126&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1 I went to Radio shack and bought their cordless Cold Heat soldering gun, let me tell you, it doesnt go instantly cold like they say, take about 5 seconds. Whoa its hot till then.

OK I found the light, but it doesnt turn on, so I think tomorrow I will first check for a possible blown fuse, and secondly, I will pull the pass seat up and check there, I found a small 4 wire connector in front under the pass seat that was not connected, and I know I have a little bit larger one not plugged in, towards the back. While I was working on my turnsignal problem, (intermittently turns on by itself, I was able to do the lazy headlight mod, looks pretty cool.

right click on your picture and compare the pixel size to what was posted, its way too big...

Do you have the digital cluster or the needle cluster (i have this one)? Can anyone give a reference point? ie 1 inch above the coolant light. Thanks!

If anyone owns a 84-89 300zx, could you please tell me where the security light is? I for the life of me cannot find it in my haynes or a fsm i found, they describe it but it is not lit on mine and I wonder if its unplugged. thanks

Looking good for a bump, does anyone have access to the 87-89 series 300zx factory manual that wouldnt mind sending a scan of the non turbo vacumn lines for a 87? Thanks.

Can anyone identify the model of my rims in this picture? If I remember correctly they were Enkei knockoffs by American Eagle.

I want to apologize to the admins:hail: , its not that I insist on have a huge signature, and even though mine was edited out, I deleted my signature alltogether when I read Petes post. I dont want everyone else to lose the privilege. Sorry.

1989 Nissan Hardbody 2.4L 5spd 134 hp, most at its time in a factory 4banger. My Mom gave me this truck when I became a senior in Highschool back in 1991. I still remember the day I dropped it, my mom was behind me in her car and she was following me and she realized that my truck was bouncing a little bit and then she realized that I lowered it and after that it was on, WWF(e) style. She gave up afterwards, some of the mods I did... 4inch suspension drop w/ aftermarket bumpstops upfront 3inch block drop in back, Ginzu knife the factory bumpstops from 6" to 2". California whale tail from JCWhitney, 249.00 Custom made bed cover 50.00 in wood, 15.00 in vinyl. Foglights 39.99 Limo Tint 50.00 14" Enkei lookalike rims 69.99 a piece, from Truckin mag shop in SoCal. Stainless wheel trim (not pictured) 8 splitfire sparkplugs, I had 2 per cylinder. Flowmaster muffler, (worst decision made at 18, no HP after that. 2 cans of gloss black krylon, and painted the chrome bumper, and grille to go stealth. Finally back to my Nissan roots....

1987 300zx N/a 2+2 Ttops Auto While I plan on eventually this decade swapping to a 5 spd, can someone help me with this automatic issue? My transmission seems to not want to shift into OD unless its warm. Now I know you all will all start talking about the TSB from Nissan stating that is normal for my car. I understand that. My problem is more complicated then that. It also appears that my car will not shift into 3rd unless its warm & I put the car in N and turn it off wait 1-2 seconds, and turn it on again. This action allows me to access 3rd on really cold days here in Chicagoland. Now if I want to get into OD, i literally have to pull over onto the side of the road, stop, cycle through all the gears, allowing the tranny to feel each click, and I go back to D and take off, now I still have 3rd (2500rpm@65), and then get OD (2100rpm@67+). Now I have replaced most of the fluid in the tranny, (by accident when I replaced the Automatic transmission modulator, which gave me better shifting, but it still goes on. I didnt notice this problem when I bought the car since it was one of those rare warm days in January. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Has anyone done this to their Z? I used to own a Saab 900S and I loved the fact that the ignition switch was in the cosole, not on the dash. They had good reason for doing that as they studied crash data, they found more people suffered knee injuries on their right leg due to it hitting the key during a frontal accident. I also want to install a keyed battery key in my console, and replace the ignition switch with a cool starter button on my console also. My only question would be do you actually run a length of the thick gauge wire from the negative post connector all the way to the switch and back? I love the idea of being able to jump in and press the button and it starts, but how do you all turn the car off?

I found the section in my manual that shows how to check the codes, didnt realize i had to unbolt it. I unbolted the ECU and pulled it out, I turned on my Ignition and I saw the following flashes (if I remember correctly) 1 flash together (red and green) 1 red 4 green (the speed sensor circuit is open) 2 flash together (red and green) 2 red 3 green fast (idle switch signal circuit is open) 4 red 3 green fast (throttle sensor circuit is open) 4 flash together 5 flash together then it starts all over again. I erased the codes by pulling the negative cable for a couple of seconds, I plan on checking the codes again tomorrow to see if they are still there now that I have driven it to work and back. What do you all think about the codes?

Anyone ever relocated the wires from the lights to the console and dont use the twist button anymore? use a 3 way toggle?

I hope this will help more people to stop and take a look, I would like to hook everything back up. .........................................hose w/ screw ...................................open clamp ...................................................| ..................................................| ...................................................V ..................................................V