boardkid280z

Found these for sale on JCWhitney, just installed em a couple weeks ago. They're cheap, but better than stock

Goldilocks says "too small" http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm

Mine are not round. We bought them for our Dodge Caravan A-Team van look-alike. And I swapped em to my car after we broke the turbo mini-van. I like em:

I think I got an oil pan.

I heard all these great things about the Taurus fan, so I got one and it took way too much hacking to make it fit. In the end it didn't really cover the whole radiator and it sucked getting it in and out and mounting it was a pain too. It did move a lot of air, but in the end I changed setups (now have an aluminum radiator with pusher fan - don't even need the fan when fall hits). And the Taurus fan had become a useless piece of junk because it had been hacked up so much. Do it right, stay away from Taurus fans, unless you have one already.

That looks and sounds awesome. Very nice and clean setup. Do you just have a cone filter on the turbo inlet? I can't see any other ducting to the compressor inlet. If so, do you have any plans to run that inlet from a colder air source? like up in front of the radiator? The inlet air temperature could be reduced a lot by doing that it seems. I like it, especially if it works well. No need to get complicated with meth, water, temp sensors, hobbes switches, TBI etc. What size exhaust do you have?

My JCR kit is still for sale: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150347&highlight=supercharger

Cool photo shoot. I hadn't realized you had painted your car, Phil. It looks good man.

Hey Wigen and Drax (when you get yours running), I've got a couple of spare cams, one's an internally oiled 'A' cam and one's a 'C' cam. I was just wondering if you had verdict on the 'A' cam or had heard any more about the 'C' cam in a turbo motor. Right now my motor should have the 'M' cam from a '83 L28ET with 5-spd. Here's my comparison, from mild to wild, though overlap obviously isn't the only thing to look at; degrees of overlap: M - 22 deg B - 26 deg A - 22 deg C - 38 deg The 'A' cam ( and 'C' cam) has higher lift, this is supposed to be good for turbos. M - 6.75/6.7 A - 7.35/7.35 C - 7.00/7.35 Found this thread, I'm sure this isn't the only example of high lift duration/overlap beating low lift/duration/overlap in a boosted car, but that doesn't mean it will always be better, or even most of the time. It does mean it's possible though: http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1333221 Yea, I know it's a Honda. But it shows that even though there is more overlap, the longer duration and higher lift made up for it, and produced 15% more hp and 8% more tq with similar curves. Exhaust psi vs intake psi plays a big role here, and I don't know if anyone has ever measured that on a stock L28ET. Or a modified one. I'm sure someone has, does anybody know of any data on that? Here's an interesting post advocating low overlap: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=106178&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&sid=0450b8e12740e304cb7d856241ec6468 It would be interesting to see what the 'C' cam would do, but swapping cam towers and all that junk seems like too much trouble at the moment. From what I'm reading such a 'hot' N/A cam might do well in the top end of a turbo power band, but down low it's gonna hurt ya. Sorry for rambling, good luck getting your car on the road, Drax. -Brazle

The Holset outlet after the 90deg bend is a 3" outlet? If so, why are you reducing it to 2.75". That's not much, but it's still a reduction. And a reduction will reduce flow. It might increase velocity, but you don't really want or need that before the IC. I would make the turbo to intercooler piping 3". Checked out the website, that looks like a pretty good deal on hoses and couplers.

+1 for the whaletail, I've always loved the way they look.

When you said you were pulling out the NOS bottle, that surprised me since it sounded like you were gonna keep this thing stock/factory looking. Do you have any other planned upgrades for it?

From looking on the Courtesyparts.com website, the picture looks like they are silver colored, so I called and the guy said they are aluminum not brass. They actually only have a picture of the N/A cap, no pic of the turbo cap. But the guy said the turbo cap was aluminum too.

and doesn't make sense to me. 3 wires, well I think that rules out the reverse light and neutral switch They are both 2 wire I believe. I have no idea what wires might be going to an auto tranny, but there should be no other wires going to a 5-speed. You're sure they were connected to/going to/attached to the transmission?

crazy dudes on motorcycles http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1058880512099685914&ei=N0CWSvilNITYrgKWt-z7Ag&q=fastbikes&hl=en&client=firefox-a and these BMW short films are awesome: http://www.chasingthefrog.com/BMW_Films/bmw_films.htm

YES, GET IT! That is a great deal as long as there are no obvious knocks, leaks, smoking or low compression on the motor. A steady idle, and smooth revving would be nice too, but those just might be old electronics problems. Make sure that YOU see and hear it running before handing over the cash. If he is going to help you find what else you need for the swap, that'll be great too. I would say, unless you have a place to keep the car and have a plan in mind for specific parts in the car, don't worry about offering to buy the whole car. Having another car around can be more trouble than it's worth sometimes (not always). Hydraulic head is ok - doesn't have to be adjusted . Tell him everything you will need (harness, ECU, fuel pump and whatever else) and see what he says about the price.

I started a thread over on zcar.com, but haven't found them yet. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/1/2078330/2080127 I am looking for the Cap and Rotor for a 1983 280ZX Turbo (81-83 should be the same), but I would prefer the ones with gold colored contacts, I believe the material is brass. It seems the ones I have with silver contacts (aluminum) wear out faster. Around here we have NAPA, Autozone, Advance A.P., O'Reilly and Pepboys. NAPA's Premium ones are still aluminum contacts and kind of pricey ($33/$12). All the other places only carry the aluminum ones. Does anyone know if there's a place online that sells these with brass contacts? I bought a tune-up kit from MSA and they both had aluminum contacts. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -Brazle

Sweet looking cars Frank!!! It's a Z4 M, right? Where did you find the Burger King??

I have always been in love with the vipers, and this is such a great swap, I'm glad somebody has done it and it done it WELL. The car looks beautiful. Great job. Any pictures of the exhaust?

Also, to answer your specific question, "No it would not still work."

Your fuel flow will drop considerably, maybe by more than 50%. If your injectors are big enough, you might be able to make up for it by increasing your injector pulsewidth at higher RPMS. But this is not the right way to do it. If you have too much fuel up top, just reduce your pulsewidth in Megasquirt. If you want to even things out across the RPM range, replace your RRFPR with a standard FPR. As long as you have a wideband sensor on the car, you should be able to monitor and tune as necessary. But if you remove the vacuum line from our RRFPR and eveything is somewhat tuned now, you will find everything will go LEAN, LEAN, LEAN without the necessary fuel pressure. As you know that is very dangerous, and not a good idea. In short, it's not a good idea, and what are you trying to accomplish?

Great work on this project! Very interesting to see all the different takes on manifold modification and performance enhancement. Have you done any measurements or estimated what the resulting plenum volume is going to be? It seems like that was one of your initial goals. What thicknesses did you end up using for the top and bottom plates? And will you be able to modify the throttle linkage or will you be going 'cable'? I have always like the stock 'solid' linkage on these cars. Nice work wax, keep it up. Excited to see what your resulting flow numbers will be too.

Car looked great at the show, man. It would be sweet with a GT30R. How much hp can your fuel system support? injectors/pump?

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143259&highlight=l20et Discussion of L20 vs L28 parts. [url=http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143259&highlight=l20et][/url]

That's cool, but I think what I love most is that it's in a 86 300ZX, that's just awesome. Are you running an auto or manual tranny? What do you do for work? That's quality stuff right there. OK, I can't tell which is which. I see the top turbo is feeding the bottom one. Is it the 35 feeding the 42 or vice versa? I'm guessing it's the bigger feeding the smaller, and the smaller one has a second inlet before the bigger one spools up!!?!?!? Maybe there's no second inlet, it's behind the radiator in the 3rd pic.... MORE PICS PLZZZ.