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Kennysgreen280zt

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Posts posted by Kennysgreen280zt

  1. Edit: now I had to go home and take a look at my manifoil. Luckily I only had to slot out 2 holes a bit to get it on.

    The turbo wont fit at all though so I am going to cut it all apart.

     

    Which two holes did you have to slot out? I will start with those two, hopefully thats all it will take. Im definitally going to be cutting up mine as well. At the least, to move the flange and shorten up that wastegate tube.

  2. So I bought the SS autochrome 'top mount' header off ebay. I didnt really expect much and as such im not suprised how it fits. Im sure it wont be much of a problem to fix, or make it fit. I took some pics and will put little captions with each pic.

     

    The part itself is decent condition. It is stainless, and is polished nicely. The welds look to be TIG and are pretty good. The flanges are an acceptable thickness. They include a hardware kit, more on that later. Also it came with new gaskets (not OEM) The biggest problem ive heard with these manifolds is cracking, I believe a brace or two to the turbo will keep this from happening.

     

    The first step was getting it in, or on, whichever you like. Im using the rick wong mounts and initially had a fear of it hitting the mounts. Turns out once its in, the manifold itself doesnt hit anything. This is where the fun started.... The flange is lazer/plazma cut and the stud holes dont line up with the head bolt pattern. The first three ports are good, and the rear three ports are good, but getting all 12 studs to line up doesnt happen. I will have to wait till monday to elongate the holes at work, so for a temporary solution I started taking exhaust studs out untill the thing slid on. I think the holes are only going to need .040" - .060" more to fit. As you can see in the pictures, once in it has good clearance from everything in the engine bay. The brake lines of course will need a heat shield or thermal wrap. Also the #6 runner is a bit close to the fire wall. A 3" DP might be a tight fit.

     

    fromthetop.jpg

     

    fromthefront.jpg

     

    Here is a 3" tube placed in the rear to see how tight it would be for a down pipe.

    3exhuast.jpg

     

    And here it is without the 3" tube

    firewall.jpg

     

    Next I go to grab my turbo shell ive got laying around. Its a standard T3 Ford style exhaust housing, and a to4 compressor housing. I couldnt believe this one. The exhaust housing actually hits the valve cover, and the compressor housing... well I left it off cause it wouldnt sit on the flange with it on. There is plenty of room to cut the manifold to point the flange vertical, or slightly tward the fender, which should clear up this issue. I cant imagine what turbo would work here, with a T3 flange?

     

    First pic is from the front. Arrows point to points of contact or lack of contact in the case of the flange.

    poorfitw-arrow.jpg

     

    And here is from the exhuast side

    exhuasthit.jpg

     

    Last, I go to bolt my Tial 38mm onto it. I screwed in the supplied studs, and slide it on. The 'dump' side of the wastegate points right at the block. The flange and tube are laid out in a way that it should be easy to relocate the wastegate to where ever I feel like under the manifold.

     

    wastegate1.jpg

     

    Alright, now after all that im sure your depressed, but ive got a plan. It is as follows.

     

    Step 1 is to slot all the mounting holes

    Step 2 is to cut a slit between each port to allow for some expansion when heated

    Step 3 is to relocate the wastegate either by rotating the flange, or the tube its attached to

    Step 4 is to cut the T3 flange off and angle it the opposite direction to allow the turbo to fit.

    Step 5 (optional) is to re route that #6 runner and create a bit of extra room for a down pipe. There is room for it now, but I would like a little more.

     

    I also plan on getting the manifold coated in some ceramic stuff. I dont like the way the stainless looks after a few heat cycles.

     

    Hopefully that will be enough to make this thing last for a while. I paid $89 + shipping for it. I dont think I could have gotten a flange, and tubing for that price so I think its alright that its going to take some work to fit.

     

    Comments are welcome, as is advice. Sorry for the long post but I havent seen anything discussed about this style manifold.

  3. 300whp isnt a big deal with the stock manifold.

     

    I will chime in for complaining about the NA-T setup. While I know it was my own fault for the failure, I did crack 4 ringlands on the stock (75) NA pistons. It was a great combo of too much timing, not enough fuel and too much boost all at once.

     

    If it was me, my 300hp L plan would be as follows. Stock turbo bottom end reringed and new bearings. 2mm Metal headgastket, ARP studs, N42 or P90, whichever you find. 440cc injectors, and megasquirt. Turbo would be a smaller T3/4 w/ 3" down pipe, and a decent Ebay intercooler. Thats maybe, on the high end $2k that your going to spend and it will barf out 300whp all day long.

  4. yes that car is that fast.

    its built by some well know shop in europe.. i forget the name.

    they built the black golf with the rear engine and awd and like 600+whp.

     

    my buddy hear in my town has a crazy rabbit.. 600+whp easy.

    it makes me drool!

     

    mike

     

    Your thinking of Dahlbach, I saw that AWD golf when it was on its US tour.... simply awesome. it was front engined though

  5. Up here in WA, the front plate ticket is usually a fix-it ticket, if you find a place to 'mount' the plate they will usually drop the ticket(zip ties count as mounting aperently) As for the exhaust, I would browse through your vehicle code and see if 90db is the actuall limit that is listed. Again here in WA its against the law to even mod the exhaust, but I dont know anyone who has got a ticket for it.

     

    And on a side note, I really like that 323..... is there a forum or a good aftermarket site for them?

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