bryan01

http://forums.hybridz.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=3890&d=1192064421 so ... yes?

can i just put some resistors inline to cut down the current before it hits the injectors (and goes back to the ecu)? from what i've been reading high impedance injectors are 12ohms, and my low's are 3, so if i got a 9ohm resistor before each one, the computer wouldnt tell a difference, but would the injectors still operate properly? the low imped injectors are supposed to have a faster response, would you lose that? would they still work? i saw a few products online called injector drivers that advertised to run low's as high's, and they were pretty expensive if all they are are resistors inline between the ecu/inj.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129152 if you don't agree w/ the prices talk to me.

i've recently purchased JT's manifold setup, a large precision (6152e i think) t3t4e, and Dave's apexi FC. here are the parts i now have for sale: *megasquirt-I v2.2 w/ flyback (allows low imped inj's), ms extra, w/ map (up to 21#) *megasquirt harness *intake air temp open element sensor *coolant temp closed element sensor *simulation board v2.2 *tuning db9 cable *custom rpm board to convert a 6 coil 5v rpm signal (coil on plug ) to a single 12v square signal. the ms uses this and extra outputs can be solderd on to run an aftermarket tach as well. the car has 65# delphi low impedence injectors from racetronix.com, and the megasquirt has been dyno tuned to stock boost levels (8#). car made 240hp, 200tq. it's using the stock ecu for ignition as the megasquirt is fuel only. if you have different sized injectors, all you'd have to do is edit the size in the settings tab and the injector open time is recalculated using the tuned fuel map and new injector size to get the same amt of fuel (opening time) result. i may also sell the following: *jgy fuel rail (jgycustoms.com) *adjustable fuel pressure reg *(6) 65# delphi low imped. injectors (racetronix.com) *huge mechanical autometer fuel pressure gage on the fuel rail (i'll get the part number tonight) i looked around and i think i may need a resistor pac inline to make my low imped injectors work w/ the FC since the stock inj are high imped, or wire in resistors myself (at some unknown ohm?). if i cant get the FC to work with these injectors i'll have sell them and buy high imped ones, and if someone wants EVERYTHING i may be convinced to let it all go at once. i know this is a for sale post, but i thought people w/ rb's check this forum more often, and the MS is already tuned and ready to go w/ everything it needs to run as it's currently setup on my car. here's a video of the dyno tuning and a printout of the dyno chart http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01 350$ for the tuned megasquirt and everything in the first group above. 450$ for the 2nd group above discount if you buy it all.

i love you.

in the brief instructions that the kit came with, it says that i should NOT remove the metal sleeve that is press fit into the control arms, and that the bushings should fit inside of that (after i've removed all the old rubber) and then the new interior sleeve goes inside that, then the bolt goes through. well the OD of my new bushings is about the same OD (note: not inside, but outside dia.) as the sleeve that is currently press fit into my control arms. should i shave the bushings down so then can fit? (they'd have to be shaved a lot and i don't have a lathe or anything so they probably wont be round when i'm done) or should i take the control arms to a shop and have them press out the metal sleeves that are in there and then just put the new bushings in? anyone else have a problem like this? i have a 77 280z and ordered the full Suspension Techniques bushing kit from summit.

ok; i've got pics of it but i can't access my ftp at work, so i'll post them tonight when i get home. and it's on an rb25

i'll go home and make sure, but i was pretty sure it was an aluminum tube. thanks for the info.

so for 300$ i was happy with what i got. all the holes lined up to bolt onto the engine, all the injector ports lined up w/ the injectors on the rail. i was actually pretty impressed. the car drove at boost on the dyno for about 3 hours and everything was good. i was driving around yesterday a few miles from home and the upper rad hose popped off. this was the first time out on the road so it was more to work out the kinks close to home type of drive. anyways, i opened the hood and realized the hose didn't pop off, but the press-fit tube that it clamps onto that goes into the intake plenum came out. to describe it better if you dont know, it's a 3" long alum tube that is supposed to be press fit 1.5" into the cast aluminum plenum, and then you clamp the upper rad hose onto the exposed 1.5". well it was pushed out! ... so i pushed it back in the best i could and drove it the 2 miles home, filled it back up w/ water and ran it for a little while parked infront of my apt at a cool 177 deg. doesn't seem to have been too drastic, but i'm going to change the oil anyways, since it got overworked by taking the heating hit w/o having coolant in the car for a few minutes. anyways, since it pushed out once, there's no way to press fit it back in w/o some help since it's obviously not sized correctly for a press fit. is there some high temp rtv that i can use that will stick it in there? jb weld? or do i have to convince my friend to buy that TIG welder he's always wanted, push the tube in, and weld around the edge? also, is something else wrong that would pressurize the coolant line so much that this would push out or is that normal?

now you're getting somewhere. it's really easy to mess up soldering, no worries. if matt says it's working, it's working. one of the first things i got was a working stim. and i'm keeping it. alot of people sell it back but i think it's a great diagnostic tool if you're ever stuck (ie i'd suggest you buy one to just have). now i'm going to go downstairs and test my rpm board out and report back exactly what it's doing before i say what i think it's doing and have to put my foot in my mouth...

looks like mine. i ran mine from the tb, over the valve cover, and attached that plate on the end of the cable housing to my firewall where the Z throttle cable linkage used to enter the cabin. i then notched a piece of my pedal and it worked like it was meant to be ... it's acutally a little longer than it needs to be if you go over the engine, but if you're trying to make it super clean and go around the engine, it's too short, you'd have to rig up sometihng w/ the stock linkages maybe. i didnt want to have to deal w/ that thou and it was just simpler to run it w/o adding a link to turn it 90deg and another one to turn a pull motion into a rotation motion and another one to .... i like easy solutions, they tend not to break.

referring to what? the megasquirt or the dyno tuning or the car or ... ? as far as the ms1 goes, no, i love it. msextra is working great, i bought a prebuilt one from a friend so i knew it worked, but i still got a stim board to MAKE SURE it worked before i put it on my car. i did all the hard parts, the tuner said if i had come to him asking to tune a squirt that wasnt working yet he would have said no. also i didnt have to mess w/ timing at all, which is a big help. it would have added an entirely new level of complexity that i didnt want to deal w/ yet and i'm glad i didnt. once it's been running for a while i may add on the timing options (which is more difficult for an ms1, i may just upgrade to an ms2 v3 at that point). the ms2's have the ign options built in, where an ms1 squirt would have to add on hardware etc. for stock boost it's putting down more hp than what the motor was rated for, so i can't complain at all (motor is rated at 240hp at the crank, and mine is putting 240 to the wheels). the only mods i have are the fuel system and an intercooler. the turbo should take up to ~14psi, so once it's been around the block a few times i'm going to turn it up and go back for some more tuning, but i should be able to reuse most of my VE map so that works great too. he did in 2 and a half hours on a dyno what would have taken me forever on the street. saved me a lot of stress woring about traffic and things breaking etc etc. the dyno wasnt w/o problems. i forgot to put my dipstick in so when he did the 0psi run it blew some oil out like a blow hole. also none of my band clamps on my intake were tight enough, so at 0psi it blew the bov pipe right off. if either of those had happened while driving it could have been really bad.

ms1 v2.2 w/ flyback running msextra (fuel only) ... the stock ecu is still running the spark and the ms1 is controlling fuel, but here's a dyno vid (i dont know if you guys check the rb forum much, i posted there too) http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/ it took 2.5 hours to tune the whole map from full vac to 8#'s. (stock boost) but it runs incredible! how it was tuned: i did all the wiring and got it running and set up all the constants etc so all we had to do was tune the VE table. did one pull at XX boost (or vac when we first started) and would add throttle to keep it at that boost level. this would cause the engine to pull thru the rpm band at that one boost level, effectively going across the ve table at one point (limiting the boost axis). we'd look at the dyno graph, where it was lean/rich at what points, and go back to the VE table and adjust the fuel levels at those rpm points and do the pull again. once the afr was perfectly straight and where we wanted it at all rpms at that boost level, we'd move up to the next boost setting. worked out really well.

mainstream performance in powder springs, it's just west of atlanta, they've got a website but just to warn you it's really hard to get them on the phone. once i did they would call me back etc and were great. dave (ZUL8R) takes his car there too, and DAMN does he have a lot of dyno time logged in their computer

yeah the sensor should be good up to 21psi according to the megasquirt info file, i think somehow the upper limit of my VE table got set to about 8psi, which just happened to be what my engine was stock ?? doesn't make complete sence but ok, i've seen wierder things happen. i'll look into it, hopefully i'll just have to reset the limits and go back for some more tuning, or maybe by that point i'll feel comfortable enough doing the upper part of the map ... but that's probably more of a reason to go back to the dyno. the tune was the best $$ i've spent on the car yet. it's sooo smoothe edit: yeah, after reading more i think the guy who i bought the squirt from had his turbo set to 8#'s, so he had his map maxing out at that. it just so happened that my car stock hit that as well. so it's a great ve table setup for the stock engine. when i get a boost controller and some gauges in the car thou i'm going to rescale it and go back for another hour of tuning. he should be able to reuse the bottom 1/2 of my current map and just add on the extra boost tuning since nothing will change about the voltage from the sensor. i was worried that i'd hvae to get a new map sensor and have to redo everything from scratch.

more or less. the shop apparenly has 2 tuners, one who does nissan stuff like FC or aem and one that does honda stuff like hondata ... the hondata guy started doing megasquirt not so long ago, but doesnt like it much b/c of the countless number of builds; thats why he used my computer b/c everything was already setup on it for my car. i setup everything, and got it running. i never even opened the VE fuel table, i just ran it on the "stock" map. it was good enough to idle with but that was about it. the hardest part is getting the MS setup, so the tuner was happy. from what i remember reading you can set your bins of your VE table, so you set your limits of the table and then any points you want to use in between. but maybe the limits are set by your hardware? i'll have to check when i hook up my laptop tomorrow, but i didnt understand why i'd be maxing out my table at 8psi w/ a 2bar map in the MS. gauge vs absolute? the tuner didnt mess w/ any of the settings, just the VE table values, which he tuned using the same method he tunes his honda's with. just set 1 axis parameter in the table and run thru the other axis, increase the first axis parameter, continue ...

stock boost, just over 8psi. i've got a 2 bar map on my megasquirt, but for some reason at 8+psi it was already maxing out my ve table bins. i have to look into it. i may have to get the 4 bar map to turn it up any, i definately wont max that out, but i'd have to retune it

i didnt get a print out of that, i'll try to get it when i go back in a few days to say hi once the car is driving around (i'm still working on other stuff before it gets on the road completely). but it was perfectly level all the way across. the tuner was awesome. he basically would pick a boost pressure load and throttle up to that, and keep it at that thru the rpm range. then the dyno would output the afr at that load and he would richen or lean it at the points that needed it and move on to the next boost range simply moving his way thru the ve fuel table. it gets to all the points in the ve table that you normally won't use, like partial throttle at redline etc. i drove it around the parking lot earlier today and it's amazing what a tune does.

http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/rb25zdyno.pdf there's the chart. it's a stock rb25 engine w/ a megasquirt controlling the fuel.

i'll post the dyno page once i get to work tomorrow and can scan it in, but here's the videos http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/CLIP0012.ASF http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/CLIP0015.ASF

are you sure about that? when i got my q45 TB i pulled off the position sensor and set it side by side with my stock rb25 TPS and if i hadn't labeled them when pulling them off you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. both say nissan. both were exactly the same dimensions with the same wiring plug and everything. i ended up using my RB one just to be safe, but can someone say for sure that it doesn't work? also, some people put the pully on the outside (ie away from the engine) but i didn't have much room there at all so i flipped it over and installed the tb so that the pully was on the inside. worked great. it was also really easy for me to mount the throttle cable. i'm also using a 240sx cable, good length. pic is worth 1000 words ...

i'll have a rb25 tuned map in a day or so. i just dropped my car off at the shop to get a new VE table on the dyno. it would give you something decent to start with for your rb26 depending on how close your fuel setup is to mine. i'm going to post up the results in a few days

when i push my hood down the hindges touch the 90* couplers coming out of the intercooler. i mean i could add another bend at the core support, and have the intercooler sit more forward, and it should clear, like someone who posted pics above *edit, i looked back an didnt see the pic, maybe it was from another post*, but that's just another bend/cut/connection ... i think i have enough already ... also someone above has my intercooler mounted in the same positiion with VERY tight welded alum bends coming out of the tanks. i could do that, but i dont know whats worse, not having hood hindges in the stock location (or at all) or having even tighter 90+* bends

3" piping, silicone 90* elbows in/out of the intercooler http://plaza.ufl.edu/bryan01/ and no comments on the rust repair that still needs to be done. i'm doing one thing at a time.

my intercooler is right up against the core support and the piping goes into the upper core support holes. when my hood springs are compressed they hit the 90 deg elbows. mine's mounted exactly like chrism's ... if you look at his pics ... imagine the hood hinges compressing, his piping looks small enough that the hood hinges will go around the pipes, but w/ the bigger intercooler and pipes there's not much room in the corner near the core support