bryan01

i have a spare one too if you're interested ... it's just laying around so i dont mind letting it go cheap

i talked to the company, talked to people with it installed, and decided to give it a try. the car is going to be interesting to drive anyways, so i'm not to worried about it, but i'll let everyone know how it goes as far as feel, driveability, and holding power after the break-in

ha, almost forgot ... i ended up ordering a competition 4 puck sprung clutch from JGY. it was 380 shipped and is supposed to hold up to 650ft#'s ... i'm at about 1/2 that, so i'll have room to grow, and there's more of a chance it'll actually hold it (my last clutch wasn't near whatever it claimed). we'll see how street-able it is, but that's for another day, i still have to reinstall the exhaust, driveshaft, etc ...

removed the flywheel with the impact gun/compressor. got it machined and reinstalled everything. thanks guys for the help, now it's on to a loooong break-in ...

so i cant remove the flywheel to save my life ... any suggestions? the bolts WILL NOT break loose ... i'm afraid of shearing one of them off, which would lead to way more work/problems than if i just left it in there ... the wear on the flywheel surface isnt that bad, it wore evenly over the entire pressure plate contact patch, and grooves are somewhere between superficial and shallow (less than .001) ... they're not reverse threaded or anything like that right? i got 2 different bolts to pop, like they had broken free, but when i pulled again they didnt budge, which would make me believe i was tightening them instead of loosening ... ??? any ideas? at this point i think i'm just going to leave it on there

apparently i skimped on one too many parts, during my build i used an XTD stage 3 clutch (6 puck, sprung, ceramic) on ebay for 129$. it said it was 30-40% stronger than stock and could hold up to 430hp (tq ?) but i reread it and i think they were sly with their wording, either way it can't hold it anymore. my car drives great but under low boost (~10psi) it lets go every time. as long as i'm not boosting it does stop and go perfectly, but that's no fun ... any suggestions? at low boost i'm about 330 hp, 270 tq at the wheels and this clutch isnt even pretending to put it to the ground (it's got about 2 hrs of dyno time on it and about an hour max on the road) but at high boost it's almost up to 340 tq ... it's not going to work i saw a few other 6 puck sprung clutches in the 350$ range that may perform better from some websites jgycustoms or phase2 ... any experience with these? i'm trying to avoid a clutch that i dont want to or cant drive on the street. i saw a few that had multiple plates, but they were very expensive, any ideas? what are you running ???

no issues. i love my FC. it's plug and play for the rb25; and i've got mine in a 280 as well not that part that really makes a difference. i'm running 65# low-z injectors on it, along with a z32 maf in a blow thru setup.

stock 2.5L i6 rb25 series 1, lots of interesting wiring, sc61 t3/t4, z32 maf, tial k/o bov and wg, custom tubular manifold/exhaust/intake pipes, a large fmic, q45 tb, greddy k/o plenum, jgy fuel rail, 65# low-z injectors, apexi fc computer .... =

MAN UP thanks to the dave's in atlanta, making it happen lowest run was running off the wg spring, at about 10psi, mid run was at the low boost setting of about 12psi, and high boost run was (you guessed it) at the high boost setting of about 16psi setup is an rb25, w/ JT's exhaust, a sc61 t3t4, and dave's apexi fc go team.

i'm bringing my car to atlanta to dyno at mainstream the middle of sept if anyone is in the area, feel free to get in touch. i used to live in atlanta and i moved up north for work, but the issue i'm finding now is that all the shops up here only work on sti's and evo 9's. my ecu is from dave's car (used to be on the board more, but got a 510 to replace his rb z when it blew on the dyno @ ~430 hp) the same shop tuned my car w/ a megasquirt on it about a year ago, and did a great job, but then i fell into the trap of upgrading and here i am now, desperately in need of a tune from someone who knows what they're doing. as far as updates on the car project, i havent posted new pics yet, but recently i found someone to tig weld my intake piping and it looks awesome (thats about all that's happened in the last month ... and i ordered some bamf fenders for those hre wheels ... all from the board )

well i think mine came with 5/16 bolts... which would explain why they dont fit if yours fit a 7/16 bolt ... i'll go check it out, thanks for the info.

^^ anyone know what size and thread the bolts for the lap portion of the seat belts are? i dont have my stock ones anymore and i'm trying to install a harness. i've tried m12x1.25, 1.50, and 1.75 and none of them work, my m10 bolt that i had laying around (1.50 thread) pushed right through so i assumed it's not an m10 ... the american bolts that came with the seat belts dont fit either (5/16 if i remember) ... help?

i've got an r33 cluster i'm going to use. the cluster doesn't fit into the 240sx dash as well as i would like, but i think i'm going to use it for now to get going. i'll let you know if i replace it w/ gauges ... (i may even end up switching over to a standard 240sx cluster, i haven't researched wiring those into the rb harness yet, but i'm sure it's been done) i did some trimming of the rear of the console and it fits in nicely, mated with the bezel all hooked to the main dash. (i had to cut out the bottoms of the ash trays and a lil trimming in the rear). only problem left is the ebrake. i'd like to use a stock one (240sx or z) if possible w/o switching to the line lock ... from looking at it briefly i think it can be flipped with minor modification (we'll see if that holds true) ... but if i have to move it forward as well then that complicates things doubly over so i dont know, i'll look into it

my old dash was completely destroyed by 35 years of sun tanning. it was either buy a new 280z dash, buy a 280z dash cap, or try something new. i'm all about trying something new ... especially when the main dash only cost me 50$ locally.

i mocked up the center console and the radio bezzle and it went together pretty well, i'm going to take out some material from the underside in the rear of the console so that it seats better with the trans tunnel, and that will also angle it to match the dash line. just by sitting the console on the trans tunnel and lining up the upper bolt locations where it meets the main dash, the lower connects were less than 1/2" off, so with trimming of the rear to rotate it down it'll line up great ... i'm more worried about the e-brake. i havent looked into "flipping" it to the driver side, but i'm assuming i can do that with relative ease (any tips?). it looks to line up toward the rear of the slot in the new console (but it's going to be tight), and i'll take pics later this week.

Yes, the flange is definitely interchangable, i've test fitted the WG in and i can fit it up to the flange, push it in, and it'll hold in place upside down without the vband clamp in place. ... and since i already have the one welded to my manifold, i'll sell you the one that my WG came with

ha .. .you're right, that's a HELL of a lot smaller than the unit i got with the 240 dash. it looks like it'd be easy to work with, and once i am actually driving my car around i might be inclined to add that to my install (esp when it starts to get cold) ...

thanks for the compliments, the lips on the 4 in the pics are about 4.5" from the face of the basket center to the edge, i'll post more pics when i get them on the car

looking back on it i think frame rail welding should be done on a rotisserie, not from under the car, but again, i'm learning ... i'm in a push to get everything "done" so that i can move again. i'm hoping to get the piping done within a week or 2 ... i'll have more pics of that, should be a lot cleaner

no cleaning with acetone or soap or water, i was more concerned with fitment (and the car is just dirty underneith, i'm not sure "cleaning" would be enough, removal of more metal in order to remove 35 years of grit would have probably been required) ... just grinding off as much undercoating that i could, lining up the frame rail the best i could (as close as i could get it) and going at it ... the 180a welder burned through the floor several times. i know this because insulation from the other side would start to drip down (i know, i should have removed all the interior insulation, but that would have taken way too long) ... when i welded the floors in with the 140a welder we would blow thru the metal and spend a lot of time fixing holes we had created ... and time was spent testing said welds (lots of jumping and banging and inspection), but beyond cutting it out and banging it til it breaks, there's nothing more i can do to test penetration, the welds arent at all pretty, but it would take a lot to break them it's hard to watch the puddle and keep a nice steady flow when you're trying not to get hit with dripping red-hot metal ... i made a few brackets for my dash install today and the welds looked 100x better, it makes all the world when the metal you are welding is the same thickness, is butted together nicely, doesnt have any coatings on it, and is thick. here's the best weld of the day (the vertical side) ... http://www.uncutwelshman.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=2264

tial knockoff ... it's a 60mm which matched up w/ the manifold, but the outlet of it is a lil smaller than JT's HKS unit, so i'm going to have to weld a new flange onto his dump tube (that dumps infront of the front tire) ... here's pics of the WG http://www.uncutwelshman.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=526&g2_page=5

i've got the defrost ducting for under the dash, but i would have to cut slots for it in the dash to relocate it appropriately. i had to remove a lot of the dash to allow it to fit the curvature of the 280z window. my car doesn't have heat or a/c, i didnt think about defrost too much but you bring up a good point, i have the fan for the 240sx as well, and could just wire it up with the ducting i already have ... it's a work in progress

local wheel repair shop here in CT, did great work but by looking at your address, probably a lil far away

by all means, critique away ... i know i'm not the best welder ... especially upside down ... that side was done w/ the 140a welder that was cranked up ... it still should have been able to weld the metal, but it was struggling ... i went over some of the welding w/ the new welder but it was hard ... my old welds on the floors look pretty nasty too, but i never seem to have good surfaces ... either there's paint on it or i'm welding thru residual insulation or i'm trying to bridge a gap between 2 pieces of different thicknesses

no, i bought them. above is the link from the for sale post ... 1100 for 7 rims; 4 w/ tires (but the fronts were flat spotted and one of the rears had a plug in it), 2 with a bigger backspacing than the others for slicks, and one new in box for spare parts. i'm going to use the 4 w/ the new tires that i just ordered, and put the one decent tire (not the greatest tread, but not flat spotted or plugged) on one of the other wheels as a full sized spare. the work cost 350 for the repair work (of 4 of the wheels that i'm going to use on the car); 360 for powder coating (it cost more than what the shop usually charges for coating wheels b/c of all the special masking i had them do of all the mating faces to make sure the pieces fit back together ... apparently they've never done 3 piece wheels before.) and the tires were 450 shipped to my door ... oh yeah and it cost 250 to ship all 7 wheels from orlando, FL to hartford, CT ... and i paid my friend 100$ for the polishing, and a few beers ... he's worked on wheels a lot before and has a ton of special equipment for it .... and it took a LONG time to disassemble and reassemble the wheels FYI