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BRAAP

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Everything posted by BRAAP

  1. The UBER cool Turbo charged wood stove is linked below. Turbo charged wood stove..
  2. Being as the rear carb feeds the rear 3 cylinders, and those same 3 cylinders are not firing, then the carb is by default the strongest common denominator for sure. Have you tried reading the plugs? Checked float levels for both carbs?
  3. Home built DIY Turbine engine.. BOO YA!!! NYE Thermal dynamics by chance? DIY Jet Turbine...
  4. Fella’s, A few years back I loaned out some of my SBC books which have since disappeared. In trying to replace them recently, I have been able to replace them all but this one. If anyone has this book written by "David Vizard" in their library and is willing to part with it for a nominal fee, drop me a PM. "How to Build & Modify Chevrolet Small-Block V-8 Pistons, Rods & Crankshafts" by David Vizard. Thank you, Paul
  5. First Z, Dave Lum in Beaverton, (aka http://www.datsuns.com) is installing one in his 510 and has amassed quite a bit of information regarding the VQ series engines. VQ-35 powered DATSUN build up page...
  6. Seen this same scenario many times with the old OE bronze intake seats in the pre ’76 heads, though usually when the seat falls out, it wedges itself and holds the valve open enough for the pistons to contact the valves and subsequent massive damage is the result. Oversize OD valve seats will be needed. Monzter, Just curious why Beryllium copper seats in the intake and not the exhaust? Chambers look real nice BTW, shaped similar to our chambers, nice work.
  7. Especially with under .500” lift, I am pretty sure it is physically impossible to get an opening and closing ramp that aggressive with the OE rockers, (or any available L-series rockers). It would take over .600" + lift to get that much duration at .050". I’m with Jon on this one. A 300 degree duration spec with less than .500” lift HAS to be advertised duration at say .002"-.005" valve lift, definitely not duration at .050”
  8. Sounds like you might be better off taking your car to a qualified tuner shop savvy with Turbo engines and intercooler installations.
  9. Here ye go.. The original BRAAP Z W/N-42 manifold The race car with an IR MFI manifold… Same race car as it ran with MS and EDIS… and another N-42 Manifold
  10. Marc, As I’ve said in E-mails in the past, your car is incredible and we all would appreciate reading a detailed write up with pics about your car here on HybridZ, possibly in the Members project section.
  11. Are you looking for the LT 1, the 4L60E or both? (Just trying to help clarify in hopes it will attract more attention for you...) Good luck, Paul
  12. It’s only $40. If you think $40 is a lot to spend for the V-8 bible, then you’re in for sticker shock when you find out how much it will cost to take advantage of all that wonderful info that Mike Knell took the time to R&D and publish in an effort to shorten our V-8 conversion learning curve. The JTR manual is worth its weight in gold and is an invaluable resource to go back and reread months and years later. Just "nut up" and buy it or hold tight till you are in a better financial position to obtain the book and take advantage of what it has to offer. You wont regret the purchase. If you do buy it and don’t like it, I’ll buy it from you for what you paid for it including shipping, as long as it isn’t trashed of course. Just my $.02
  13. It is for cooling the piston. My thoughts are for a moderately to highly boosted L-series, that the oil squirter should be retained as the pistons need all the help they can get in keeping cool.
  14. Well, my first thought was fuel starvation, i.e. clogged fuel filter or pump inlet screen, but the black smoke throws that one out.. Hmmm… Let us know what you find. Paul
  15. Twin Turbo VH45DE boat… VH45DETT boat video, click me...
  16. Isn’t this guy a member here? By far the “hottest” V-8 induction noises I have EVER heard! In the video, from the 30 second mark till the end. Car looks WAY friggin FAST in straight line… Quick and high revs... Click me...(full body chill)
  17. Ran across this by accident, almost fell out of my chair... VH45DE running, "NOT" in a car, click me..
  18. Jaundice, Welcome to HybridZ. THE source for extreme Z car performance. An LS-x in a 280-ZX, yes it is very much possible. I’ll be honest, that question is like asking, “Is a Z car with a V-8 fast?” I don’t think anyone here has found any production automobile engine that wont fit forward of the Z car firewall. Some swaps just require more imagination, money, discipline, tooling, skills, etc than others. The LS-x conversion is not the easiest, but is also not the most difficult either. Depending on how much of a perfectionist you are, that alone will dictate just how intense and exhaustive the conversion will end up. Due to the Z cars cavernous engine bay, the real question is when are you getting started on your LS-x powered 280-ZX? We would love to see that project come to life and documented here on this forum. Being as you are new here, I ask that you please read this link thoroughly, #11 will help considerably with your question, and don’t forget #2, that one is the most important and seems to be the most ignored. Read-me Welcome to HybridZ
  19. If you are discerning track enthusiast, you will quickly find that the Viscous LSD is realtivly "loose" and “very” inconsistent. Serious discerning drivers that like to drive their cars at 10-tenths on the track prefer “consistency”, and depending on chassis setup, available traction etc, a certain amount of break away torque, which the V-LSD does NOT offer. The Viscous LSD’s are great for John Q Public who will never take his car beyond 6 tenths on back road jaunts and they are also excellent for cars that serve duty at the drag strip. For the hard core corner carvers among us, either clutch pack LSD or a Torque sensing gear arrangement like the Quaife is the preferred choice. For more info, read Jon Mortensens diff sticky. Lots of fantastic info there..
  20. Naviathan, You’ve got mail…
  21. Hoov, The Z-31 utilizes a “rear” steer rack, like the 280-ZX. The 240, 260 and 280 Z cars utilize a front steer rack and as such, the 240 rack will not work in the Z-31. The rack moves the opposite direction. At any rate, maybe one of the S-130 guys will chime in with info regarding the manual steering options for the 280-ZX as that may be an option for you. John Coffey, Tube80Z, Blueoval Z etc, would know what modifications can be performed, if any, to convert a power rack to manual. Ps, I took care of your other post as well. Good luck, Paul
  22. Yeah… ah hem.. uh, well.. stay tuned… Well, sort of. There was/is, the Infiniti VRH35ADE. Though it and the parts that make it what it is, are not in the financial realm of us mere mortals. Here it is with its single plane crank, screaming at 10,700 RPM. The Infiniti VRH35ADE…
  23. Your post is a little hazey, (anxiety post, I understand), I just want to clarify the situation.. So you literally just rebuilt the short block and fired it up, not driving it yet, but in the drive way with only maybe less than a minute run time on this new bottom end, this occurred? Any head work done? When you say BANG, did it actually make a loud BANG sound? When you say Do you mean that you reused the head gasket? Is this a stamped steel shim style head gasket or an OE, Felpro, Victor Reinz etc? Any pictures of the region spewing coolant? Any more detailed info you can give us?
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