BRAAP

Oh mah goodness. I had no idea this induction set up would stir up this much… uh… entertainment.. Turbo280Z, Ron didn’t buy it, he was just playing. If I were to sell it to Ron, he would get a special deal. You know, twice what I’d sell it to any other Hybrid Z-er As for offers on items I sell? Sorry but I prefer NOT to do the “offer” thing, too much politics involved selling stuff that way. If I’m going to take “best offer” for something, I’ll post it on eBay, that takes the politics out of the bidding wars… All items I post for sale in any online classifieds ad are sold at a set fee and are handled on an honest and fair first come first serve basis, (based on the time stamp of E-mails received.) I better get to answering those E-mails…. Paul

Since the super charged V-8 Z project is in full swing, I’m putting up for sale my personal custom N-42 intake manifold, 60mm throttle body, stainless throttle cable, complete Mega squirt EFI and EDIS Distributorless ignition system including coil pack, magnecor wires etc. I’m, not separating out individual parts. The intake manifold, throttle valve, fuel rail, throttle cable are being sold as one package. The MS EFI with the DIS ignition is another package, or they can be combined. I just updated my classified ad with the MS EFI and Ign including pics. Here is the ad… http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=3384

My $.02 on this subject, for the N/A L-28, at least use a NEW clutch assembly. Even it is just an OE replacement from Shucks, it HAS to be NEW! My experience for even hot N/A L-28’s is that OE replacement will hold up just fine, no slippage, especially if you are using a lighter weight than stock Z car flywheel. Now if you plan to rev the engine to 7000 RPM and/or beyond regularly, I cant recommend using just any OE replacement clutch as I’ve seen some discs literally shred their linings and/or chuck the coil springs out of the disc. That is not a good thing. Name brand performance clutches are a better choice for high RPM engines. Now back to my REMANUFACTURED rant…. Do NOT ever, ever, ever, ever use a REMAN clutch EVER!!!!!! Let me say that again… just say no to REMAN!!! That applies to water pumps, starters, alternators, clutches, distributors, brakes, etc. Also stay away from any parts that come with a Lifetime warranty! (unless it is a brand new very reputable aftermarket manufactured parts such as ARP bolts etc…Not sure ARP offers a lifetime warranty, but you get the idea.) Life time warranty does not mean a quality part. In fact, it literally means LACK of ANY quality whatsoever! You don’t believe me? Ask anyone that has used reman parts with a lifetime warranty, how many times they had to replace that part and how much time that broken reman part cost them in taking care of that issue each time it failed? If a part has a lifetime warranty and the price is very low, DON’T BUY IT! Sure, the place that sold it to you will replace that part at no charge. Uh.. Well.. They wont refund the towing bill, the time off work you lost while sitting on the freeway with a broken car, the hassles you went through to replace that reman part for the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th time etc. Pay a little more money up front and forget it. Those lifetime warranty’s mean SQAUT! That applies to brakes as well. NEVER let a shop like Mineke, Midas, Les Schwab, etc, install their “Lifetime guarantee” brake parts on ANY of your cars, unless it is your mother in-laws minivan.. . Whew, I feel better now….

Hmmm… Well, a small block Chevy of any displacement between 262 and 431, (depending on your budget but if power is you goal, always build as big as you can afford). There is also the incredible Gen III Chevy, WOW! Don’t forget the small block Ford line up, 289, 302, 341, 351-C or M, 400M, etc. How bout the small block Chrysler? 318, 340, 360? Hmmm.. Oh, there is also the Big Block Chevy, 396, 427, 454, 502, 540, 568, let your imagination and budget run wild… Big block Fords, 429 and 460. You could go old school FE Ford, 390, 427, 428 etc. Oh, the Big block Chryslers. My father built an RB 440 powered 280Z, (there are pics of me doing a nice foggy burnout in it on this forum). Oh, I almost forgot, Ford and Dodge also made a V-10 that would fit and have lot so WOW factor the Datsun/Nissan meets when you poo-0p the hood. If you feel the need for even more cylinders, BMW and Jag made V-12’s that can be had for reasonable, used. As for which is best? That is up to you decide. We can’t answer that for you. Each of us have our opinion as to which would best satisfy our cravings for MORE power and why, but your needs for a Hybrid-Z conversion could be very different than any of ours. Back in my younger ignorant days, (like I’ve changed…), I was ranting at an event about one brand of car being a better car than another. After I finished my rant, a wise man spoke up saying, “there is seat for every arse and an arse for every seat!” I promptly shut my hole, hung my head low and began to ponder that statement for quite a long time. Any how, that statement also applies to power plants… The perfect power plant for YOU is up to YOU to decide, not us. Please do ask questions about specific attributes or odd-ball ideers, but only after you searched the forum first. Good luck… Paul

I’ve noticed a few posts in this thread here about a distinct separation between the “DSLR” and the “point and shoot”. Pretty much all of the DSLRs work as point and shoot cameras and in my not so humble opinion, the DSLR’s make for a far better Point and Shoot type camera than ANY of the currently available point and shoot cameras. The DSLR’s are and much faster and easier to take those point and shoot type pictures with vs the non DSLR. There are several automatic modes on the DSLR and my experience thus far after owing several high end point and shoots and now low end DSLR, (Nikon D-70’S), is that the DSLR is more idiot proof for the “casual” picture taker than the traditional point and shoots (even the kids can grab it, turn it on, take few pics with no problems) . With the DSLR there are far fewer missed shots, (I missed many great pictures with all of the point and shoots I’ve used because of the LAG they exhibit), and when using any of the auto modes on the DSLR, just point and shoot and it happens RIGHT NOW and the picture is usually AWESOME! no pause, no thinking, no waiting for a flash charge, etc. I’ve owned a few of the high end point and shoots and my Nikon D-70s is a far better, more accurate, easier to use “point and shoot” type camera than any “point and shoot” I’ve ever used. After owning both, her ei how I view the Point and shoot vs DSLR debate… What the “point and shoots” have over the DSLR is cheaper entry price, smaller size, and the ability to see the “pretaken” picture on the back screen. That’s it. At that, for just a few dollars more than a good point and shoot , a DSLR can be had, so if you car at all about overall camera quality, picture quality, ease of use, etc, the price thing doesn’t count. There is nothing else that a Point and shoot has OVER the DSLR in any other regard. These pics were taken with a an Olympus D700 series point and shoot across the street form my house/shop.… Taken with D70s, On final, Troutdale OR, KTTD, Ron Tyler in the left seat…

I mounted mine in pretty much the same location as vashonz. Sort of out of the ay visually but still easy tot access for maintenance reasons if need be.

Yes that is true. You aren’t raining on any parade here. As you stated, a slight texture on the port walls offers slight turbulence in the boundary layer along the port walls themselves keeping the fuel from falling OUT of suspension and accumulating on the port walls. For that reason, I do not polish the intake ports to a mirror finish. The finish is either 120 grit or 240 grit, sometimes bead blast finish just for that reason. That is a 240 grit finish in Ians ports with a light buff using the scotchbrite buffing pad to give it that sheen.

Nikon D-70s HANDS DOWN!!!! (Currently the D80) I’ve gone through so many high end point and shoots and when I finally stepped up the Nikon D70S DSLR, I will NEVER touch a point and shoot again. The Nikon menu is logical and easier to use than ANY Of the point and shoots that I have used, it is lighting fast, quality of the camera and the pics it takes are nothing short of astounding. I’ve shot well over 10,000 pictures through mine already and only owned it just a year and it is still going strong, no issues. When I bought mine, Ron Tyler played with it for a little bit then promptly went out and bought one. Another friend bought the Cannon equivalent, sort of liked it, then took it back and bought the Nikon D-80 and couldn’t be happier. Here are a few I’ve taken with my NIKON D70s

Torque or HP… Hmmmm Can’t have one without the other. Torque is measured, (amount of force). HP is calculated using Torque, Torque over a given amount time = work performed or HP. Torque is what you FEEL, HP gets you down the track. Cessna or Piper?

ARRGGHH…This one is tough. That was when I was heavily into F-1. Ayrton had the reputation of being the best, not only because he amassed the most points during the season, but because he drove at eleven tenths, he either finished first, or not at all due to crash or vehicle failure. The nod goes to Senna,… Displacement or Boost…..

If the quantity of smoke released into the atmosphere is the determining factor, I’m pretty sure I win that that one… Best BRAAP burnout… 1) Big Block Mopar Z… 2) Infiniti Q-45… 3) Motor home… (Actual foggy burnout on pavement, of course helped with hydraulic levelers…) Big Block Mopar Z…… Q-45… Motor Home…

JENNIFER! Z, S-30 or ZX S-130

M-5 Wilma Flintstone or Betty Rubble?

Tastes great... Bore or Stroke?

You can machine or carve off that EGR plenum that runs the length of the air plenum and then just drill and tap those holes using a pipe tap and plug them that way.

Noddle, I did get a response on the MS forum. Here is that thread http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=134147 Thanks for your input. Paul

There are different carbide bits for carving “ferrous” and “non ferrous” metal. Bits for Non ferrous metals, such as aluminum have much wider flute spacing and the actual cutting edge is a slightly different angle, just like milling machine tool bits. If you use ferrous bits on aluminum, they will indeed clog up, and clog up in VERY short order. Non ferrous bits will also clog, but not as often or as fast. The faster the bit is turning while you are carving, the faster it will clog, and the softer the material, the more it will clog as well. On the other side of the coin, using non ferrous bits on ferrous metal such as cast iron will dull the bits in short order, hence the need for particular bits for the material you are working with. . For the Datsun aluminum intakes, a non ferrous cutter works fine with minimal clogging. And as Ron Mentioned, when the bit clogs, run it across a piece of cast iron and that will unclog it. I keep an old Chevy Oil pump housing near by just for that purpose. Also, there are waxes available that will help keep the bits from clogging. Here is post I wrote some time back in another thread about valve unshrouding, talks about and shows the different cutter bits… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110269

As for removing the webs, an air powered cut off wheel and/or Sawzall, could get the bulk of it, then using a die grinder, blend the excess left behind. Now for that $600 intake… (BTW, thanks for the plug Mike…) (In my best Billy Mayes infomercial imitation……) Yeah, but that $600 gets you more than just a non webbed intake, that intake also accepts O-ring injectors, comes with a matching billet fuel rail, comes with custom matched 60mm NISSAN throttle valve AND braided stainless throttle cable set up for the Z car, ready to bolt in. Shipping to Australia most likely would be outrageous to say the least. If someone came to me to duplicate that exact set up to that level, I would charge well over a $1k.

I just got bit by the Call of Duty bug a couple months ago. I’m playing single player on my PC which is almost four years old so I’m playing the first version of Call of Duty, not COD-II. COD-II is bit of stretch for my poor Dell. I’ve finished COD on each skill level at least once. My favorite scenarios are the sniper missions, fighting with the Russians through the ruin cities, and fighting with the English in the snowy woods. I haven’t played on line yet, not sure if my satellite connection is up to the task of online gaming as it suffers from what can best be described as massive Turbo lag. It takes a few seconds to make the connection with every click of the mouse, even on the same web page, but once that connection is made, boost comes on and it downloads at and acceptable rate, until I click another web page button then it’s…. lag..lag..lag.. booOOSST!!! Also, Satellite down load speeds are reasonable but the upload speeds are only marginally faster than 28.8 dial up. In short, I’m not sure how the Satellite connection will handle online gaming…

I like how you used colored lines on the pictures to ask your question. Very nice. The purple is the Boost Controlled Decelerating Device, (BCDD). Its function is when at higher RPMS and you drop/close the throttle, it allows air to by pass the throttle valve in an effort to keep the tail pipe emissions during decel to a minimum. How you know it is functioning is that when you do drop/close the throttle, you’ll notice the RPMs will hang for a brief second or two, or when coasting, the car wont decel as aggressively at first. If you don’t have to deal with emissions testing and you like a crisp throttle response i.e., the rpms drop rapidly when you close the throttle, then get rid of it and plug the holes. The EFI will function perfectly wit out it. Regards, Paul

The Mangusta is Gorgeous for sure. Thanks for sharing…

Stony, I’m assuming you are referring to the stubs in the strut housing. The ones you broke, were they the 240 or 280 stubs?

This is great thread guys. I am also “seriously” considering installing a C-4 diff in my Super charged V-8Z project, but I want to use CV’s. I’m not too interested in using/shortening the Vette suspension. I have access to an ’85 C-4 Dana 36 with 3.07 gears and it has recently had the clutch pack set up a bit tighter for serious autocross use…

Scottie, I’m considering installing a C-4 Dana-36 in my Z using CV’s Could you tell us more about what these TII CV’s are, came from, etc, and could you please go into a little more depth on what materials were used for the diff stub mod and who did that work? I have access to a Dana 36, 3.07 ratio from an ’85 C-4 that spent most of its life as a dedicated Autocross car and the clutch pack it that diff has recently been set up a bit tighter as well. I am SERIOUSLY considering this for my Super charged V-8 Z using CV’s. Thanks, Paul