BRAAP

Ron Tyler is using them with WOLF EMS on the L-6 and might be a good source for them, drop him an E-mail. Here is pic of the LS-x truck coils on an L-6 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117607

One word. “CLEVITE!” In EVERY engine we build, from your nothing special grocery getter to full tilt race engines whether it be Chevy V-8’s or Datsun L-series, we use Clevite Main and Rod bearings, (Durabond for the cam bearings in domestic V-8’s). You can source the bearings through us as well in std. and undersize as well. Seriously, stay away from cheap or no name brand bearings. Lack of consistency and layer thicknesses and inferior bonding of the layers. I don’t have much experience with the OE bearings though they should at least be a higher quality. Any of you other professional engine builders use the OE Nissan bearings in High-po applications? ruschmotorsports@hotmail.com

What brand of rings do you want? We can source a few different options in the .075mm oversize with the late model ring pack, I think we even have access to Gapless in that ring as well… Contact us at http://www.ruschmotorsports@hotmail.com Paul

First off, congrats on getting it running. Now if only the snow would melt… As for your tach issue. I’m not sure if this has any relevance to your situation, just though I’d throw it out in case I have had issues getting the OE ’78 tachs to work with HEI ignitions with the traditional small block V-8 Z conversions, (well only two ’78 tachs), and both of those ’78 tachs worked perfectly in L-6 cars, just not with the HEI for some reason. I then tried a few other tachs a ’75 and a ’77 and those worked fine with the V-8 swap.

With it running so rich, does it run better when the engine is cold, i.e. first started up and then gets worse as it warms up? If the Water Temp sender becomes disconnected for any reason, the EFI will flood the engine and the symptoms you described at WOT are the result. It is very common for the leads that go to the water temp sender to corrode and come apart or for the connector to just fall off as these connectors are pretty trashed after 19 years in service. It is also possible while you did the gasket R&R that you swapped the Thermotime switch and water temp sender connections. On the Thermostat housing itself, you will have 2 sensors that have Bosch style electrical connections. One of those sensors has much bulkier body than the other. The BIG one is the Thermotime switch, (controls the cold start injector), and if you follow its wires back approx 3-6 inches from the sensor you find a pair of bullet connectors. They SHOULD have red electrical tape wrapped around them on both sides of the bullet plug connector. The Water Temp sensor, (that is the smaller Bosch style sensor), it also has a pair of bullet plug connectors in the same area as the Thermo time switch and does NOT have the red tape. The Water temp sensor is NOT polarity sensitive as it is just a resistor and at 70 degrees Fahrenheit, it should read between 2000-3000 ohms and at engine operating temp of 190 degrees, resistance across the EFI water temp sender should read between 200-300 ohms. With a Haynes manual, looking at the wiring diagram in the back for the ’77 car, you can trace the pin-outs for the water temp sender at the ECU plug itself and verify with and ohm meter that the ECU is in deed getting the correct resistance value, i.e. no break in the wiring. If the resistance values measure are any where close to those posted here, then that is not your issue. Too bad you don’t live in the Pacific Northwest We’d be glad to diagnose it for you. Keep us posted on your progress..

Olie, Well this “someone” is misinformed and now is spreading that misinformation. This instance of spreading this misinformation … (I was writing up a humorous slam, but in the end decided to give this poor misinformed “someone” a break, unless he insists on spreading more of something he really doesn’t have a firm grasp on…) EFI is merely a “different” way to introduce fuel to the air stream vs a carburetor, and as such, the cams specs needed for a given power band will, for all intensive purposes, be identical for a carbureted engine or an EFI engine, with both running the same intake manifold, exhaust etc. I could easily spend 4-8 hours writing up one of my REALLY LONG posts with all the details of how a carb works and explain how that “sucking velocity” works, (air flow through the carb generates a decrease in pressure across the discharge nozzle because of the venturi, thank you Mr. Bernoulli), I just don’t’ have the time this week. Hope that helps.

Just curious, why do you think you need to find this supposed O2 sensor? If your Z is a stock ‘77 car, it does NOT have an o2 and never did, unless someone installed an aftermarket EFI with O2 sensor or late model OE EFI system, (not likely). . Hmmm.. I get the impression your car has an issue, and you may have mentioned said issue to someone at work/friend and they in turn told you it was your O2 sensor, so now you are on the o2 search? Am I right? You are amongst some of the most knowledgeable OE EFI L-6 people in the country. Just give us the “details” of what is going on, when, and under what conditions and most likely we can help you diagnose the fault.

So how many times as your car been for sale on eBay now? This is at lest he 2nd time right? The last time someone did a Photoshop color mask making it a green color if I remember right…

Jon, Do you have any pics of your Rotisserie? I’m considering building one for project FUZZY. Thanks in advance, Paul

Whoa there Ron. I think you are jumping the gun a bit.. This class session is “L-series Torque 101”… In the by laws, it is written that no Journey person shall release ANY info regarding the coveted resistor #9. Not to any indentured pad wan apprentice… I was once told by a wise midget…. “Use the Force that crank turns will he, in due time, with fuel, boost adding... “ May the Torque be with us all…

"Captain" , Jack, Sparrah, Well, based on your questions, how you asked them, and how they are worded, my guess is that you are primarily looking for a performance increase and see that “Turbo charging” is a good way to meet that goal. (Yeeeup, that’ll do it fer sure…). I don’t know your “mAd skiLLs” mechanically speaking, but if you are new to performance tuning and parts swapping, then my suggestion is to find a complete running Turbo L-6 engine and EFI system from a Turbo ZX and swap that in your car. Install the engine and the EFI in your car identical to how it was installed from the donor car. Or just buy a Turbo car that runs and start with that. That should give you a nice “reliable” boost in performance from what you currently have and also, hopefully, (depending on the condition of the donor power plant), a solid foundation from which to build upon for future performance needs. We could spend hours and incredible amounts of bandwidth describing to you the “ins and outs” on L-6 cylinder heads and which is best for what application, Turbos and how to set them up, Engine management, etc, (all of which has been covered in great detail on this forum already and can be read about using the search feature). If I’m barking up the wrong tree here, I ask that you please give us a LOT more detail and specifics, such as what you already have for a car/power plant, what you want to achieve with this car and an indication on the resources you have available to achieve those goals so that we can collectively help you choose the most cost effective route to meet your goals. I don’t mean give us your bank account statement and tax records, but are you willing to spend $25,000 on just engine upgrades only and want all this in 3 months time or are you on a more realistic budget and want to achieve more performance from your Z on a $5000 budget? Just diggin fir a bone, wanten to hep out… BRAAP…BRAAAAAAAP……BRAAAAAaaaaaaa……

Alan, It is very nice indeed. If you have any pics of the car that you would be allowed to share publicly, I for one would love to see them. Thank you for sharing details about hat nicely built car.

“Slider… sniffff… You stink!.... “

Dave, I agree, 1000 HP from a Turbo SBC is very much attainable. FWIW, that wild cam spec for the turbo SBC I quoted directly from “David Vizard” and I was only using his example as an example of just how weird cam specs for a turbo engine can get. I apologize if that came across as a viable option for the L-6, that is NOT a cam spec I would choose or recommend to anyone. It was merely an example of a WEIRD Turbo cam used in an engine built by a well known reputable engine builder/tuner that did produce some power… Here is that weird cam spec David Vizard used, (credit- David Vizard, “How to build and modify Small Block Chevrolet Camshafts and Valve trains”) You are also right in my quoting “trends” really isn’t helping this thread whatsoever. Having actual empirical data to make an argument one way or the other is what you guys after here, not “trends”. I apologize for wasting bandwidth. I wish I had more empirical data with Turbonic L-6 engines and cam specs. I have built several custom heads for Turbo L-6 engines, but I don’t have any real tuning time with them on the dyno or otherwise, sorry. My specialty in tuning and parts compatibilities is with N/A and Super Charged engines. They are MUCH less complex in regards to what does and doesn’t work compared to Turbo engines. N2O engine build ups also fall into the “easier than a Turbo build up” category. As I said, ideal Turbo cam specs is a black art. It would be nice to see the data gleaned by the Electramotive group from their extensive testing with the Newman Sharp 280 ZX Turbo... Back to the discussion at hand; In talking with another member on this forum that is currently running a low 11 second Turbo L-6 street Z, he went for a ride in Zgads turbo L-6 with the Zgad cam and mentioned that it ran great and made respectable power everywhere. Also, another member on this forum that lives just across the state line is currently running that same Zgad spec cam in his Turbo 280Z street car, and that is the same cam I installed in the PINKS cylinder head we built, (too bad that engine never did get “dialed in”. BTW, has anyone heard from the new owner of that power plant? Would like to hear how well it runs with some actual tuning time on it.) Any how, the Grapeape link you gave is great, thanks. In their write up they mentioned that when the turbine housing is well matched, that LSA’s between 112-114 works well. The Z gad cam is ground on 114 LSA. Based on that, (barring any trends ), it sounds like the Zgad cam might be on the right track?!?!?!

That is a VERY nice L-6 indeed. One to be very proud of for sure. The chambers look VERY nice from a performance standpoint, and from an aesthetic stand point as well. I take it this is a true Bob Sharp engine? As for that being a P-90 head… Hmmmm. That chamber looks more like a welded N-42 than a P-90. Notice the porosity around the intake seat, (definitely built up), and the shape of the spark bolt boss, ala N-42/N-47, (I doubt Mr. Sharp used the N-47)… I’m 99% sure that is no P-90. The interior of the block is very pretty to look at. You can be sure there are no stress risers from sharp edges in that crank case, (not that the L-6 block suffers from crank case failures due to stress risers). I LIKE IT!!! And who wouldn’t, it’s a Bob Sharp engine!?!?! Nuff said. BTW, OTM, as for your signature…

Jon, Yes, that is true, the current trend for 2 valve turbo cam specs tends to have wider lobe separation angles compared to performance N/A, Super charged, and N2O cams for a given power band. In fact, I have seen a cam spec for a Turbo SBC V-8 that produced over 1000 HP and it had NO overlap at all, in fact, the exhaust valve closed, crank turns a few more degrees and then the intake began to lift off the seat. WILD! Cam specs for N/A, Super Charged, and N2O, power plants are MUCH easier to nail down for particular power attributes over a given RPM range, but with the back pressure involved with the Turbo, all that goes right out the window. The IDEAL turbo cam for any TURBONIC engine is still pretty much a black art. Intake flow efficiency, exhaust flow efficiency, Turbo design, boost being made, RPM range power is to be developed, intake and exhaust temps, intake to exhaust pressure ratios, etc are all factors that affect the “optimum” cam specs for a particular application and none of that can just be calculated. Basically, if we widen the lobe separation angle, it seems to be the safest route in terms of power gains with the least compromise for our beloved Turbonic L-6 power plants, or at least that is the current trend. This is not to say the IDEAL cam specs for that Turbo application wouldn’t be something altogether different, maybe with tight LSA etc, and as more of you Turbo guys try different cam specs for a given intake, exhaust, turbo combination and those same guys keep posting your dyno charts, we should start seeing trends in boost pressure vs power produced and power under the curve as well. That’s my $.02

Just a quick post script to WOLF; What really sold me on the WOLF set up is a friend of ours has a very nicely set up BMW E-30 M3 with a nicely built 2.5 BMW S14 four cylinder and he is currently running N/A with 750cc injectors controlled with a Wolf V4, (he plans to install his big turbo very soon hence the huge by large injectors), and his idle quality is crisper and more stable than it was with OE EFI, even with those huge 750cc injectors. Power delivery is seamless through all transitions and conditions and drivability is as pleasant and seamless as OE if not nicer. Here is a short list of features as listed on the outside of the box my v500 came in.. FUEL; High resolution 3D maps. 2048 points, 125 RPM steps. Easy tuning modes. 0.0035mS Fine resolution. 8 full sequential outputs. Smart, fault reporting drivers. Drive 1-32 injectors. Many Dynamic trims, (such as air or coolant temp, boost, pretty much anything you can think of). IGNITION; High resolution 3D maps. 2048 points, 125 RPM steps. Easy tuning modes. 0.1 degree Fine resolution. 8 full sequential outputs. Smart, fault reporting drivers. Drive 1-8 ignition coil packs. Many dynamic trims, (such as air or coolant temp, boost, pretty much anything you can think of). CONTROL; Dual memory system. Power/Economy modes. Wide-Band Air Fuel Ratio. Closed Loop control. Idle speed control. Stepper motor driver. Turbo Boost Control. Turbo Timer support. ENGINES; Run engines up to 16 cylinders. Full Rotary engine support. Internal Map sensor to 30 PSI, (supports external MAP as well). N/A, Turbo, Super Charged, N2O. A wide range of direct plug in ECU’s are available as well as the universal stand alone. AUXILARY I/O Dedicated outputs: Thermo fan, Fuel pump, boost control, Idle speed. 15+Aux inputs/Outputs: VTEC/VVT, NOS, Shift lights, Water spray, Stepper motor, Emission control, Wheel speed and more… SOFTWARE; Latest 3D graphing. Graphical Data logging. Table Data logging. Variable speed log playback. On-screen dash boards. Easy tuning and set up modes. DASH BOARD; Separate WOLF DASH V500: Backlit graphics display. Dash or window mount. Live ECU tuning. Moving graph data logging. Dash board readouts. Gauge readouts. Security system. SIZE; Very compact:133mm x 104mm x 40mm, (5.23” x 4.09” x 1.57”) Lightweight: only 500 grams, (1.10 lbs) WOLF v500 http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html WOLF DASH; http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/632479.html

Have you given any thought to WOLF EMS? I recently purchased a universal WOLF V500 system for my Supercharged V-8 Z project that I plan to run DIS. WOLF even offers plug and play systems for some vehicles as well. I haven’t done much playing with it yet, but so far it is VERY impressive. The menus are very intuitive. For instance, lets say you want/need to work with a particular sensor for some reason. Just click on “configurations”, and “sensor setup”, wa la… No muddling through other menus to deal with a sensor setting or configuration buried elsewhere in the menus, (You Electromotive and Mega Squirt users know what I’m talking about). WOLF has its own diagnostics, several boost controls and trim adjustment’s etc. I have heard in casual conversation, (not from the dealer), that WOLF is close to being on par to MOTEC as far as performance, features, etc, but costing much less. Also, for anyone wanting Sequential EFI and Distributorless Coil on Plug ignition control for their V-8, you already know there isn’t much in the way of 8 cylinder support. Mostly 4 cylinder and some 6 cylinder systems. WOLF V500 has 8 individual injector channels AND 8 individual ignition channels. Currently the V500 is going for $1550 US dollars. For what its worth, Ron Tyler, (a member here on Hybrid), is a WOLF EMS dealer and if I’m not mistaken, I think he mentioned elsewhere on the forum that he is offering a discount to Hybrid members and. You’d have to contact him at the address below for more info. If he sees this thread, maybe he’ll chime in… ron@primeems.com What really sold me on the WOLF set up is a friend of ours has a very nicely set up BMW E-30 M3 with a nicely built 2.5 BMW S14 four cylinder and he is currently running N/A with 750CC injectors controlled with a Wolf V4, (he plans to install his big turbo very soon hence the huge by large injectors), and his idle quality is crisper and more stable than it was with OE EFI, even with those huge 750CC injectors. Power delivery is seamless through all transitions and conditions and drivability is as pleasant and seamless as OE if not nicer. Here is a short list of features as listed on the outside of the box my v500 came in.. FUEL; High resolution 3D maps. 2048 points, 125 RPM steps. Easy tuning modes. 0.0035mS Fine resolution. 8 full sequential outputs. Smart, fault reporting drivers. Drive 1-32 injectors. Many Dynamic trims, (such as air or coolant temp, boost, pretty much anything you can think of). IGNITION; High resolution 3D maps. 2048 points, 125 RPM steps. Easy tuning modes. 0.1 degree Fine resolution. 8 full sequential outputs. Smart, fault reporting drivers. Drive 1-8 ignition coil packs. Many dynamic trims, (such as air or coolant temp, boost, pretty much anything you can think of). CONTROL; Dual memory system. Power/Economy modes. Wide-Band Air Fuel Ratio. Closed Loop control. Idle speed control. Stepper motor driver. Turbo Boost Control. Turbo Timer support. ENGINES; Run engines up to 16 cylinders. Full Rotary engine support. Internal Map sensor to 30 PSI, (supports external MAP as well). N/A, Turbo, Super Charged, N2O. A wide range of direct plug in ECU’s are available as well as the universal stand alone. AUXILARY I/O Dedicated outputs: Thermo fan, Fuel pump, boost control, Idle speed. 15+Aux inputs/Outputs: VTEC/VVT, NOS, Shift lights, Water spray, Stepper motor, Emission control, Wheel speed and more… SOFTWARE; Latest 3D graphing. Graphical Data logging. Table Data logging. Variable speed log playback. On-screen dash boards. Easy tuning and set up modes. DASH BOARD; Separate WOLF DASH V500: Backlit graphics display. Dash or window mount. Live ECU tuning. Moving graph data logging. Dash board readouts. Gauge readouts. Security system. SIZE; Very compact:133mm x 104mm x 40mm, (5.23” x 4.09” x 1.57”) Lightweight: only 500 grams, (1.10 lbs) WOLF v500 http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/635751.html WOLF DASH; http://wolfems.cart.net.au/details/632479.html Here is a pic of the ECU and a few screens shots. WOLF V500 next to a n OE ’78 280 ECU Sensors screen.. Fuel modifiers screen… Ignition modifiers screen…

"Born Whores"?!?! Huh?. I thought this discussion was about “Whore and Bone”, er, I mean “Bore and Hone”….

Ah Mah GAWD!!!!! There is fast, then there is stupid fast.... DANG!!!!

YEAH!!! That's what I'm talkin bout. If I had the budget, hands down, a mildly detuned Indy engine like that would be nested in the engine bay of my Street Z, possibly a Z-32.... I'll take 2, their small...

You will definitely need patience with Mega Squirt, especially if you are starting from scratch. Remember, MS cost less than other equally powerful EFI systems for a reason. You will end up spending more time with it, getting it configured, set up, and running, than you might with an SDS, WOLF, Halttech, etc, system. Back to your question. You could use MS-II which is EDIS friendly or MSnS-e which is also EDIS friendly, that way you have complete fuel and Distributorless Ignition control. The EDIS is pretty simple and straightforward. I did the MSnS-E with EDIS and found the EDIS to be especially straight forward once I researched how it worked etc. My N/A L-28 ran great with it. ZYA is also running a similar set up with his supercharged L-28. Getting the MS configured fuel wise was way tougher than getting MS configured for EDIS. I think people have less troubles going EDIS than they do trying to control any of the optional dizzys for the L-6 using MS. The EDIS parts also can be had for really inexpensive, especially if you are willing to scrounge around a U-pull-it wrecking yard yourself. EDIS-6 came on mid to late ‘90’s Ford vehicles and you will need one from a V-6, i.e. (there is PLENTY of documentation here on Hybrid for which vehicles to find the EDIS-6 parts). For EDIS, you will need a 36-1 missing tooth crank trigger wheel, period. No chopper wheel, no 60-2, no 3 lug, etc. It has to be a crank wheel with 36 teeth, one of which to be missing. The only known optional coils for EDIS, other than the Ford coil packs, are the Chrylser coil packs. Not sure if the GM coil packs are compatible Now if you want to go COP ignition with MS, be prepared for LOTS of research, lots of experimentation, and don’t be alarmed if you fry a few coils or other electronic ignition components during the COP set up, conifg, tuning, etc. COP with MS is not for the faint of heart. Good luck,

Sorry for jacking this thread away from Haltech & AEM. NismoZed, I think the 2k price is AU dollars. It is more like $1550 US dollars, (on the WOLF web site, in the bottom corner, click on the US flag for US dollars.) For what its worth, Ron Tyler is a WOLF EMS dealer and if I’m not mistaken, I think he mentioned elsewhere on the forum that he is offering a discount to Hybrid members and, in the near future will be offering the WOLF EMS with a base fuel/ign config/map to shorten the start up time for new users. You’d have to contact him at the address below for more info. If he sees this thread, maybe he’ll chime in… ron@primeems.com

Have you given any thought to WOLF EMS? I recently purchased a universal WOLF V500 system for my Supercharged V-8 Z project that I plan to run DIS. WOLF even offers plug and play systems for some vehicles as well. I haven’t done much playing with it yet, but so far it is VERY impressive. The menus are very intuitive. For instance, lets say you want/need to work with a particular sensor for some reason. Just click on “configurations”, and “sensor setup”, wa la… No muddling through other menus to deal with a sensor setting or configuration buried elsewhere in the menus, (You Electromotive and Mega Squirt users know what I’m talking about). WOLF has its own diagnostics, several boost controls and trim adjustment’s etc. I have heard in casual conversation, (not from the dealer), that WOLF is close to being on par to MOTEC as far as performance, features, etc, but costing much less. Also, for anyone wanting Sequential EFI and Distributorless Coil on Plug ignition control for their V-8, you’ve already know there isn’t much in the way of 8 cylinder support. Mostly 4 cylinder and some 6 cylinder systems. WOLF V500 has 8 individual injector channels AND 8 individual ignition channels. Here is a pic of the ECU and a few screens shots. WOLF V500 next to a n OE ’78 280 ECU Sensors screen.. Fuel modifiers screen… Ignition modifiers screen…

Guys, in computing your compression ratios, don’t forget that the L-series Flat Top pistons pop up OUT of the cylinder bore approx .020”-.025” at TDC so don’t forget to “subtract” that volume from your comp ratio calculations.