BRAAP

Garrett, Well, the only solution that I can come up with supporting the pressurization theory caused by combustion pressures getting by the head gasket and NOT blowing off your radiator hoses is this… Because the thermostat is a restriction of sorts AND your water pump is pumping water into the block, (flow coming into the block will resist flow back out), if you are experiencing a very “quick” pressure rise in the cooling system due the head gasket letting go, for say one, two, or three, combustion events, it realistically could be contained only within the block as the thermostat and water pump are restrictions “out” of the block, causing the core plugs to pop out. If the head gasket were to release for a longer period of time, then yes, that quick and excess pressure build up would make its way past the thermostat and to the rest of the cooling system causing the radiator cap to release, hoses to pop off, etc. I realize that this is quite a stretch/reach, but it is the only quantitative solution I can come up with to support that particular theory… Hopefully the real answer to your problem will be found. Paul

BUSTED!!!!!! Well, the burnouts were technically photographed on Lusted Rd. Our house is literally where Ten Eyck Rd. turns into Lusted Rd. Do you make it out this way much? You can’t miss All the Z cars behind the shop. If you see the shop doors open, please stop by. We wont mention the LS-1 on an engine in the shop… E-mail us if you need directions… braapZ350@hotmail.com

If you are building a performance engine, then don’t use it. There is no need to HEAT the throttle valve above ambient air temp, (colder air into the engine means more power right?). If you live in Alaska or there abouts, then keep it. The purpose of running 195 degree water across the throttle valve is to keep the intake air temp as consentient as possible, i.e. easier to keep a predetermined AFR for emissions reasons, (you did catch that I mentioned the word Emissions right?) It is my NOT so humble opinion that to retain the water line going to the throttle valve is ONLY because you plan to routinely drive your sports car in a climate indicative to Alaska or northern Canada.

The 36-1 pictured above is from a mid to late 90’s Ford ESCORT, not a Focus! I can’t say for sure, but I think the Focus used a different ignition system, but it doesn’t hurt to look just incase… Good luck, Paul

First off, I want to thank Jeff P. for posting and adding to this technical thread. His insight is invaluable, thank you Jeff. Also, I would like to thank Jeff P. for bringing up the valve lash point. I went back and reread my posts and I did forget to mention adjusting the valve lash. That is VERY important for the reasons Jeff stated and I do apologize for omitting that. Secondly. When degreeing your cam for an engine that will ultimately be fine tuned once running, (i.e. fuel, ignition timing, AND if you are going for every last bit of power, cam timing), while the engine is on the stand, there is no definitive right or wrong cam timing point to set to, so long as the cam timing is close to the card specs which is a good starting point for optimum cam timing and the valves don’t crash into the pistons. Remember that the cam timing specs as given by the cam manufacturer, are purely a “guideline”, they are not etched in stone specs that will deliver the most power for any given engine build. As Jeff said regarding how Dave Rebello times his cams, the cam will be timed according to where and how the engine makes its power and where the engine builder/tuner “wants” that power to happen within the rev range. This will happen on the Dyno, not the engine stand. Several pulls will be made on the dyno with the cam timing at various points retarded and/or advanced till the power being produced is as close to the desired result as possible. That cam timing spec could be way off from the “suggested” cam manufacturers specs that are printed on the card. The main goal is for the engine to produce as much power as possible within the RPM window the engine will be run, and that will be the ideal cam timing spec for that particular engine combination in that particular car. Now back to engine stand cam degreeing. I agree with Jeff 100% in that you should verify ALL of your cam card specs, intake opening and closure points and the exhaust opening and closure points. Also of note, if there is a “small” discrepancy in the values measured vs what is printed, (1-3 degrees is normal), then focus on the intake valve closing point. Of all the cam timing events, Intake open, Intake close, Exhaust open, Exhaust close, it is the closing of the intake valve that has the most pronounced affect on where and how power is produced. Jeff prefers not to use the .050” lift point for degreeing and that is fine. My thoughts differ slightly from Jeff’s as I prefer to use the .050” measurement because the ramps on the cam lobes are steeper at .050” than at the advertised spec or below that, and the readings on the degree wheel should be more accurate as a result, (more sensitive in regards to the crank position vs valve lift). I’m sure this can be debated the other way and I won’t argue my point any further. If you are able to get accurate and repeatable results using another lift spec for degreeing your cams, then by all means, use that spec. In using Jeffs ZERO lash procedure, I agree that is a more accurate means to center up the lobes than what I posted originally in this thread. The Zero lash procedure does add more work and complexity to this process. If we knew without a doubt that a particular cam timing spec as given by the cam manufacture will indeed allow the engine to produce the most power within the range we want, then that method is great. You then should verify that on the dyno as well. Other wise, as mentioned above, the cam timing will be fine tuned for that particular application on the dyno or at the strip, so as long as the cam timing is close to the manufactures specs for engine start up and break-in, you’ll be well served. Remember, these are old Datsun engines, not Ferrari Formula one or NASCAR Nextel cup engines. Also, due to the fact that the Datsun Cams are Asymmetrical, be sure you are consistent in your cam degreeing methods or you could easily get really confused with conflicting readings from your degree wheel. Cam lobe design is VERY very technical and as such should be left to the cam manufactures. A person could easily spend a life time and earn a PHD in Cam Shaft lobe design and still not know everything there is to know about cam shaft lobe design. Below are a couple of diagrams, (courtesy of David Vizard), one showing just the “basic” regions of a cam lobe and what they are called, the other diagram giving an example of the lift, acceleration, velocity, and Jerk curves, (Jerk curve is the rate of change of acceleration, this directly affects valve train harmonics). You can visually see that there is a LOT more to a cam lobe than just being a “bump” ground on a shaft that merely opens a valve to let air in and out of the cylinder. Cam lobes are VERY complex. The diagram below has two cam profiles overlaid on top one another, on is Symmetrical, the other Asymmetrical. Datsun cams are Asymmetrical. The picture below the diagram is a .520” lift Datsun Cam reground by Rebello racing and its Asymmetry is very clear. If you look closely at the profiles in the diagram, you will notice that if you measure for lobe centers and lobe separation using advertised duration, (typically around .002-.012”, all cam manufactures use different “adv” lift point), and then check at .050”, you will end up with 2 very different lobe centers and lobe separation angles because the cam is ground differently on the opening ramps vs the closing ramps, hence the asymmetry. The cam manufacture will specify at what valve lift the lobe separation is, so it is at those points that lobe centers and lobe separation should be verified. Remember, it could easily be as much as 2 degrees off from the cam card itself and that could be due to tolerances within the grinder itself when the cam was ground, angle of the rockers if you are cheating the wiping pattern etc. Not all cam grinders “calibrate” their grinding equipment on regular basis. Again, I would like to Thank Jeff P. For his technical insight and contribution to this thread. Paul Ruschman

Well, I’ll post a couple pics here of the parts and what they look like. As for your EDIS specific questions, I have posted in great length a lot of detailed technical info regarding the EDIS ignition system which I linked above and I really don’t want to retype it. Please go read these 2 threads linked below. Please read the entire threads and that will answer many of your questions and other questions that you haven’t thought of yet, especially your questions pertaining to making your own 36-1 wheel. There is info regarding alternative coil packs, custom 36-1 crank wheels, O scope traces, with some great pictures. etc. The EDIS Test bench that Ron Tyler and Myself built and operate. LOTS of good EDIS technical info and awesome pics as well.… http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=14920 Z car specific EDIS info. Again lots of great info…. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781 Here are all the EDIS parts needed for a 6 cylinder, EDIS 6 module and Coil pack from a 4.0L Ford Explorer , the 36-1 crank trigger wheel and its matching VR sensor are form a Ford Escort. Here are the EDIS-8 goodies from a Ford Crown Vic. Here is an old Datsun 280 Z damper before, during, and after, being modified to accept the Ford Escort 36-1 wheel… This was for mock up, then I machined a brand new damper for the race car which is pictured below these… This is the brand new Nissan pulley that is currently on our Race car. Here is our EDIS test bench, (“our” being Ron Tyler and myself), in operation testing an EDIS-8 system, (we clipped the ground electrodes from some old spark plugs which allowed us to see the sparks more clearly and also delivered the cool spark dance around the perimeter).

Ditto what Mortensen said. If it were the water pump, or other “cooling system” issue, we’d be hearing more of this same scenario, including guys with bone stock engines as well. Garrets cooling system shouldn’t be running much if any different than any other L-series cooling system. Another situation could be the block is cracked across the core plugs and the block could be flexing just enough to allow those core plugs to pop out due the cracks running the through the core plug bosses. If this were the case, the cracks would be visible to the naked eye and I’m sure Garrett would’ve seen them by now. More than likely, Garrett is getting combustion pressure in his cooling system somehow and that is causing his core plugs to pop out.

Megajolt is essentially just the “Ignition only” version of Mega Squirt. We have looked into the Megajolt for a few customers wanting to retain their Triplecarbs and SU carbs but also wanting the DIS just like we have on our L-28 with Mega Squirt n spark extra with the Ford EDIS system. Parts needed.. From a V-6 Ford Explorer or Windstar, you will need the coil pack and EDIS-6 module, (EDIS-6 is for 6 cylinder engines.). You will also need a 36-1 crank trigger wheel and its matching VR sensor. I used the 36-1 wheel and a matching VR sensor from a 4 cylinder Ford Escort. Our set up is currently running with complete control of the ignition timing. For the budget minded Z owner wanting an ignition upgrade, Megajolt is great, (or Mega squirt if you want full coupled fuel control as well). Be fore warned that Mega Squirt will require LOTS of patience in getting everything to work and communicate properly. Follow ALL instructions and don’t try to cut any corners even if you think you can get away with it, such as using cheap or even mid quality spark plug wires. Here are some detailed threads regarding The FORD EDIS ignition when used on the Datsun L-6…. EDIS thread… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781 The EDIS Test bench with some GREAT operational EDIS pics…. http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=14920 DIS ignition… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113165

Trwebb26, First off, I’m sorry to hear that you are having so much troubles with MS. My first hand experience with MS has taught me a bit of patience, though not enough that is for sure… (Now the only issue I have with my MS installation is acceleration enrichments, small issue compared to yours for sure). I truly feel your pain. I personally struggled with “reset issues” and was honestly able to FIX my reset issue. Did I read correctly when you said you had Taylor wires? Taylor is NOT a quality plug wire… Bundle those wires up, take a fancy picture of them with your best digital camera, do a little post processing with Adobe Photo shop if need be and post them for sale on eBay with no reserve at a starting bid of $.10 and let them go… The MSD or Mallory wires would be a better choice than Taylor, but even for Mega squirt, neither of those are still good enough. Even Jacobs wires which are even better at EMF reduction, will still cause resets with Mega Squirt. Trust me on this… I’d be willing to bet $20 at least your “reset” issue IS caused by your plug wires! Even Jacobs wires, (renowned as being a very high quality, way higher quality than ANY of Taylor wires, and low in EMF production), will cause Mega Squirt to reset. First hand experience even after going to GREAT lengths to reduce any chance of EMF resets such as shielded AND twisted ign trigger wires, placing the MS controller FAR away from any Ignition sources, keeping ALL MS wiring physically separated and as far as possibly away from any of the ignition components, (other side of the engine bay), etc. I can’t emphasize enough the importance of spark Plugs AND plug wires when using megasquirt. Ok, enough ranting. When you get your MS back from RS Autosports, (Steve is a phenomenal MS builder/solderer BTW), please purchase a set of Magnecor wires, even if you purchase them from another source other than Rusch Motorsports. Not only are Magnecor wires one of the highest quality highest performance street AND race plug wires that you can buy, you can rest assured they will NOT cause MS to reset due to high-tension ignition EMF. You can order your wires directly through us if you choose, or order them from another source if you don’t like us, just make sure that you use these wires before you start your MS controlled engine again. If you need specific lengths and/or plug ends, just let us/other vendor know and we/them will be glad to special order your Magnecor wires. Typically, even for DIS, custom labeled, custom length, custom plug end plug wires for the L-6, a set of Magnecor wires goes for less than $90, (My set pictured below with HEI on one end, standard plug on the other end was around $75). Oh, and here is the thread of my reset issues for those interested… http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=129342

Hmmmm… The lawn mower in that scenario wouldn’t be HYBRIDs own PINKS driver would it?!?!?!..

Pop-n-wood, You haven’t ruined your block and installing threadserts, helicoils, etc is relatively easy and will fix any thread damage may have been done and it should be relatively inexpensive as well. That Heli-coil link is great, thanks.

When I built my 30’x60’x14’ shop a few years back, I used a very expensive two part Epoxy, ($1700 for enough to cover 1800 square feet, two coats). Each case comes with 2 gallons of “part a” and one gallon of “part b”. The concrete company that poured my slab researched and found this stuff and told me I couldn’t get any higher quality floor covering designed for use in a machine shop, repair shop environment. http://www.conspecmkt.com/products/epoxy_coatings.htm

The Smithy is a decent unit with good accuracy for the hobbyist doing small projects, as rumnhammer stated. The Smithy will allow the operator to build some pretty high tech and high quality one off parts. You are only limited by your imagination. Whatever you do, do NOT buy the Harbor Freight version, or ANY of the Harbor freight machine equipment. Ask any self respecting machinist what he/she would use for the type of projects you have in mind, even go to a few production and custom machine shops and ask the guys running the equipment. If you are serious about custom fabrication and want to go further than just building just a couple of brackets here and there, enroll in a machine shop class. Things like feeds and speeds, cutter designs, angles, are important things to understand. You’ll learn how to properly machine different materials and to achieve longer cutter life, finish quality etc.

Papa Creech, I received your Private Message and replied, thank you. Paul

Ok. Here is what I’ve got thus far… (Maybe we should query the V-8 forum about this as well?) Our engine is an LS-1 out of a 2000 C-5 Corvette purchased brand new by a friend of ours. This engine received a cam, ported heads, LS-6 intake and exhaust mods, (produced 379 RWHP when all said and done). After quite some time, he broke a valve spring then bought a “new” stock LS-1 from GM to meet “Super Stock” class rules for SCCA Solo-II. Ron Tyler then acquired the original C-5 engine in trade for helping tune the chassis for maximum effort SCCA Solo-II Super Stock competition. Ron then stipulated to me that whoever starts a project worthy of this engine first, gets to use it. (Since I’m neck deep into a Super Charged traditional SBC V-8 Z project now, don’t you all think that Ron should take on a Mid Engine LS-1 Z project? He already has a 240 Z shell modified for an L-6 mid engine set up…) Any how, this engine was pulled directly from said 2000 C-5 Vette, set on a wooden crate that sat in my barn for a couple years and as of last week installed on this engine stand pictured above. The car was purchased brand new by a friend of ours and he was the sole owner so we are very sure of the engines history, (for whatever merit that has in regards the bell housing bolt specs Using 2 different bell housing bolt holes on this LS-1 short block not touched or used by “any” bolts since the engine was removed from the car, I inserted a 3/8”x16 bolt as tight as I possibly could get it with my fingers only, (picture on the left). Thread engagement was 5-7 threads. In the first 3-4 threads, the bolt felt sloppy loose, not quite right, but then at around 6-7 revolution’s it locked right up. Next up was the 10mmx1.5 Main cap bolt from an L-28 block in a completely different hole. That bolt threaded in perfectly till it bottomed out. The bolt felt great from the first revolution all the way till it bottomed out, (picture on the right). I then swapped the bolts in their respective holes with the exact same results, the metric bolt bottomed out and felt perfect, the SAE bolt reacted just as it did in the other hole, the SAE bolt was sloppy and didn’t feel right and then tightened up as I continued to install it by hand. Ron Tyler than came out and duplicated my results. The bottom pic is of the 3/8” 16 bolt, (Silver), and the 10mmx1.5 Datsun Main cap bolts, (Black) and my thread pitch gauges. The threads are fairly close, but not the same size or thread pitch as can be seen. Conclusion at this point… Well, there is no doubt that this particular 2000 Corvette LS-1 definitely has metric bell housing bolt threads and it is possible that GM switched “back” to SAE bolt threads for the later model LS-2. That would be a “Ford” maneuver changing things on a similar engine in mid production, which is not like GM, but?..... After going out to test this and having Ron duplicate my results, I am still fairly confident that the GM LS-x has metric bell housing threads. Well, at least the 2000 Corvette LS-1 has metric bell housing threads.

Your sources are totally credible, now I’m scared… I’ll get back to you on this one…

Glad to hear that you got it sorted out.

SAE 3/8” x16 bolts will go in approx ½-1 ½ revolutions by hand before they get too tight for finger insertion. The 10mm x1.5 will go in all the way by hand. If you have an old Datsun engine laying around, use one of the main bolts or head bolts and thread it into a bell housing hole that you have not put a bolt into yet. My guess would be that if a reputable shop sent you bolts for the bell housing, they should indeed be the correct bolts and those bolts should be 10mmx1.5, which is really close to 3/8” x16. Our fingers are crossed that all is well….

Datsun L-series Main cap bolts is what I use for holding L-series blocks on the engine stand, 10mm x1.5. I even attached short pieces of angle to the sides of all of my engine stands that hold four Datsun main cap bolts for L-series and GM LS-x engines and four 3/8” x16 bolts for SBC engines. Please oh please tell us you did NOT use SAE bolts in the bell housing of your GM LS-2 V-8? Whatever you do, do not use SAE bolts to hold up your GM LS-x engine on your engine stand. Those bell housing bolt holes on the GM LS-x V-8’s are also metric, in fact they are the exact same threads as the Datsun L-series, 10mm x1.5 Here is a GM LS-1 out of a 2000 C-5 Vette currently in our shop attached to one my engine stands using Datsun L-series main cap bolts…

Garrett, Hmm. How were your core plugs original installed and what is the procedure that you are currently using to install them, i.e. prep work, sealant, etc? This the procedure I use on ALL of my engine build ups and to date, have not had one pop out. 1) clean the core plug hole with 120 grit flapper wheel or scotch brite flapper of some sort to removing and all previous sealant rust etc. 2) I use a “Permatex form-a-gasket part 1A” sealer, smear a thin fill in the core plug hole and also a small film around the outer edge of the core plug itself. 3) Using a socket or other driver that is approx 1/8 smaller than the ID of the core plug, drive the core plug to the lip is just below flush from the block, (the 1/8” smaller diameter driver allows the sides of the core plug to squeeze in without squeezing onto the driver. Don’t use too small of a driver though). 4) Remove any excess sealant that oozed out and let it set for at least 24 hours. I prefer not to use Silicone sealant as it doesn’t offer any real holding power. JB weld on the other hand should hold it in forever if the core plug opening was thoroughly cleaned first. (I feel sorry for the poor machinist/engine builder that ends up having to remove that core plug during its next rebuild, LOL) FWIW, engine builders/machinist prefer to call those “core plugs” or “soft plugs”, the term “freeze plugs” is a misnomer. Those plugs have absolutely NOTHING to do with protecting the block from cracking due to the coolant freezing etc. those holes in the block are there to allow the sand to be removed when the block was originally cast, i.e. “core holes” so the plugs that fill them are called “core plugs”. Back in the early years of the automobile, if a block froze with the old style core plugs, those plugs would sometimes pop out, so most people started to believe that was what those plugs were for, to relieve the pressure of the expanding ice. They were dead wrong. Their blocks and heads still broke and cracked if they froze even though the Core plugs popped out, (I’m sure many of you have experienced this on your own), but somehow, that term “freeze plug” stuck around. Just thought some of you would enjoy that little bit of lore.

Come on down to Sandy OR, (just east of Portland), and either Ron Tyler or myself would be glad to help you out. That way we get to meet you in person, help take care of your machining needs and you can look over my race car for possible parts that you may need as it will be coming apart soon... Paul

Uhm, well technically the L-6 OE EFI is batch fire and has only one trigger signal within the ECU that ultimately controls all 6 injectors. That “one” signal leaves the ECU as 2 wires, then at the dropping resistors. One of those 2 wires feeds 4 of the injectors while the other feeds the other 2 injectors. There is NO wiring sequence for the injectors, and there are no individual banks. All the injectors open and close at the same exact time and for the same exact pulse width as it is batch fire. Something else is causing your problem whatever that problem is. If you could elaborate with more detail on your specific issue, we should be able to narrow down the areas that “could” be the culprit, but injector wiring sequence isn’t an issue.

Hmm… Well, it just so happens that I like to answer questions related to L-series heads, but your question has me completely stumped. My best answer to your question at this point is either a Comma, or semi colon. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help… , ; Hope that helps…

V, OMG!! That is a fantastically accurate drawing, THANK YOU! The burnout is great…. From what I’ve read online thus far, I can get a snout that is another 3” longer than my current form Magnuson, (My current snout is 7”?), which might just work. I will at least have to level the mounting flange to the cranks shaft plane and hopefully lower the blower over all as well. I’m keeping my options open for intake manifolds. That cross ram looks WAY cool… Dual S/C… Magnuson Eaton extensions… http://www.magnusonproducts.com/drives.htm Magnuson super charger models… http://www.magnusonproducts.com/models.htm

Pete, How the heck are you doing buddy? Ron Tyler says he’s been in touch with you lately. As appealing as the dual S/C set up sounds, especially using a cross ram intake, it isn’t realistic at this point, though maybe in the future, we’ll see. Thank you for the offer, I do appreciate it. Please stay in touch. Paul (BRRAP) Ruschman