BRAAP

Yes it is a Ron Davis. We are a Ron Davis dealer…

Only if if you ship the cylinder head to me... MUUHHAAAA...

WOW! Nice work… The detail involved is incredible. Looking forward to seeing more of your work. The details in the cylinder head are very nice and quite accurate such as the rockers, cam gear, (not that I get that intimate with L-series cylinder heads to recognize that sort of thing… ) One thing of note, the intake to exhaust pattern is off for cylinders 3 and 4. They just need to be mirrored, i.e. 3 and 4 have their exhaust ports against each other instead of their intake parts. Please don’t let that little nit pick be any damper on your work. Your cad renderings are AWESOME!!! Under your name it says you are in Portland. Would that be Portland Oregon? Were just up the mountain in Sandy.

GJC, Sounds similar to the setup I had in my 240 Z race car, L-28 with MSnS-e and the EDIS distributor less ignition. It ran great. For me, I just used the GM water temp and GM air temp sensors as sold through DIY auto tune or RS Autosport. Those sensors are very accurate and a no brainer with Mega Squirt, just plug and play, no special calibration needed. For MS, you wont need or even want the Datsun ECU or even the wiring harness. It would be easier to just build your own harness than to try and adapt the old OE harness to use with MS. It is MUCH easier to use the MS universal wiring harness as sold though DIY Auto tune and RS Autosport. Hope that helps, Paul

Yes ALL L-series engines use the same bell housing bolt pattern which will bolt up to your tranny. I PMd you about the possibility of a 5 speed. It would be a NICE upgrade. If you want to run the EFI, yes, you will need ALL the EFI goodies, ECU, Air Flow meter, etc. I’ve converted SEVERAL 240Z cars to EFI L-28’s. It goes pretty smooth as long as you have all the parts. The ECU will be on the driver side kick panel. Also, to mount the Air Flow meter in your 240 body, you will want to use the AFM mount from a ’75-’78 280Z. You will also want to use the boots from the ’75-’78 280Z as well. I just happen to have an Air Flow Meter mount I removed from a 280Z, (they are spot welded on so you have to drill the spot welds. You then just bolt it on the fender). If you decide to go the EFI route and need parts like the Air Flow Meter mount, boots etc, I’m sure we can work something out, partial trade for the Z-32 parts etc. Now you don’t have to the run the EFI if you don’t want to. Your carb setup will bolt on just the same as it does on your current engine. The EFI heads are drilled and tapped for both carbs and EFI. Also, your square port exhaust manifold/header WILL work with the round exhaust of the later L-28’s.

I ‘m needing more excuses to drive my "new to me" Z-32.. LOL… I must admit, John’s deal is a much sweeter deal, Turbo intake for keeps?!?! That is pretty sweet. John is also one THE nicest Z owners you’ll ever meet face to face.

So are you pulling an entire L-28E? If you have the choice, get one with the P-79 head, it should have the flat top pistons. The Flat top pistons and P-79 are a good street combo. You also have a Private Message as well in regards to Z-32 parts…

Justin, If you give me a more precise location in Portland of where you are at, via PM, I’m sure I can make time to drop it by sometime either late this week or next week, sometime around 3:30-4 PM weekdays? John’s offer is a really good one though… A keeper turbo intake..

You should be able to find a set in the local U-Pull-it yard at a reasonable price, but if not, I just happen to have one extra set of spray bar cam towers, (I have around 10 sets of the internally oiled cam towers…). I’ll sell my spray bar style towers including shipping to Cali, $50, (spray bar not included. We don’t have any extras, sorry). Non spray bar style towers for $40 including shipping. Paul Ruschman braapZ350@hotmail.com

Not yet. It is here waiting for him though...

GJC, I do have some complete sets of cam towers from core heads. Do you need set for use with the spray bar or are you converting to internally oiled cam? I know I have several sets for internally oiled cams, not sure if I have any extras for spray bar set ups… Also, if you locate your own cam towers, be sure to label them in a manner that you wont mix them up when you go to reinstall them. Personally, I number then them 1-5, #1 being the forward most tower. Install them in that same order. Paul

Darius’s car is world famous and his videos of that car are responsible as the motivation behind some of the beasts that reside on this forum. Thanks Darius… As for the Mopar Z car.. all you have to do is use the search feature at the top of your screen. Here is a little teaser for ya… My father built a 440 RB with TF 727 and installed it in a ’77 280-Z. Foggy burnout pics… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105492 Pics of the build process.. http://ronruschman.tripod.com/car.html#car

Gorgeous. Nice car. Thank you for sharing.

The JTR “spacers” are “T” shaped extrusions, cut to length. They are strong where they need to be strong yet “extremely” light weight for the job they do. The set back plates are simple and appear to be either laser or plasma cut on a burn table and the holes threaded that need to be threaded. To build your own mounts CNC is pretty cool and does add some uniqueness and a personal touch to a V-8 swap, but speaking from a financial and design stand point, I’m pretty sure it will be pretty hard to CNC the spacers and set back plates for cheaper and lighter, even if you owned the CNC equipment, (not that an additional 2-5 lbs is really that big of deal). … In my opinion, the actual JTR mounts are going to be hard to beat in functionality and price. Here are my JTR mounts for Project FUZZY…

AMEN!!!!, Wait a tick... I take that back. I probably spend more time writing novels about the L-6 on this forum than I do driving them any more…

Not to burst any Bubbles here, (I made a funny huh?), that is not a Typo, (“trippintl0”, you were correct about our L-series using such a wide range of total timing figures, even if you didn’t know it, and you were pretty close on the rest of it. Keep reading up). 46 degrees is totally realistic and not uncommon for high output open chamber dished piston N/A L-28’s. That doesn’t mean that much timing is a good thing, actually it indicates the chamber is quite inefficient, but the open chamber dished pistons combos require that much timing for maximum output and they do produce some impressive power, even with their inefficient chambers. With the squish chamber of the P-79/P-90 and flat top pistons, (like Bubbles application), the chamber is much smaller so the flame front doesn’t have as far to travel, even with its slight squish design, that also helps chamber efficiency, hence less ignition timing is required. In my opinion, 35 degrees seems a little conservative for an N/A P-90 flat top combo on 110 octane race fuel. I’m not saying yours is not ideal but you might be leaving a little more power on the table. It has been my experience for most P-90/P-79 flat top piston combos, around 37-38 degrees is where the engine prefers to run on pump gas, but this is dependant on many factors which could influence it to a little more or less timing. With the even smaller, more efficient, better squish chamber of the MN-47 or P.Reiths welded N-42 chamber pictured here, ideal optimum total ignition timing could be as low a 34-36 degrees. Chamber flow efficiency, plug location, squish, fuel octane, cylinder pressure, all dictate how much ignition timing an engine will require/can take for maximum output and also how much timing it can take without destroying itself, (detonation resistance). Some are more efficient than others. Even within the L-series family there are drastic variations as to what ideal timing is depending on the cylinder head and pistons used.

Here’s a Datsun Related pic. The PINKS P-90 head …

Hanson, I like your idea. Your theory sounds “sound” to me. (Is there an echo in here?.. ). In fact, I have thought about this same exact concept when I first delved into EDIS and brought it up on the EDIS section of the MS forum, though no one took the bait. Ok, back to EDIS as sequential ignition set up on a Four cylinder… First off, there are two ways to tackle your idea using EDIS to run sequential ignition on a 4 cylinder, i.e. , “not” wasted spark. The first one should be a no brainer, using coils that are compatible with the EDIS module. The 2nd idea really should be tested and verified, and might work just as well, better, or worse. It should at least be tested on the official “EDIS Test Bench” using the Fluke color “O” scope.. (hint hint Slider…) 1) EDIS-8, using 4 separate individual coils. Sounds good and should work as long the coils being used have primary resistance that wont cause the EDIS module to burn up. Also, not knowing the dwell time, or coil saturation time that EDIS uses vs the dwell time that the proposed coils will need to function at their peak performance, (this is critical for getting the most ignition performance). 2) 2 separate EDIS-4 systems, but with two 36-1 trigger wheels mounted on the “cam”, or dizzy, 180 degrees out of phase from each other i.e. the trigger wheels spinning at half crankshaft speed. The EDIS modules would just see the RPM as half what the engine is actually turning, i.e. your 8200 RPM, EDIS would only see it as 4100 RPM. Option #2 now brings up another question. Does the EDIS module determine coil saturation time based on actual “time”, (dos it have an internal clock?), or based on cranking speed, i.e. is EDIS interpreting “time” based on what RPM it “thinks” the engine is turning and therefore interpreting “time” based on that? If so, then by using option 2, (spinning the 36-1 trigger wheel at half actual engine speed), coil saturation time would double. Then finding a coil that could handle that much saturation time….. That is if this theory is even remotely possible… I may be WAY off here, (Ron Tyler would know better than I), but I think we should be testing this on the EDIS Test Bench.

You might try contacting Mike Knell directly. He is very personable and probably be more than willing to help out with your endeavor. It wouldn’t surprise me if he has CAD drawings already for all his mounts and brackets. If you contact him via the phone and just happen to mention “barking dogs” or “Ma bell”, just make sure you’re sitting in a comfortable chair and like long funny stories.

Hmm.. This thread doesn’t give me that warm fuzzy feeling. I hope you understand, I’m not trying to hammer on you, though I do feel if someone wants to use the actual drawings from the JTR manual, they should at least purchase their own copy first. Granted, those mounts are public knowledge, but at the other extreme, if only one person purchased that manual and made photo copies for everyone else, then Mike Knell of JTR wouldn’t have any incentive to update that manual or even do another one. Also, there is a LOT of great info in the JTR conversions manual and in my mind that manual is worth twice what Mike is charging for it. As far as I know, it is the only manual of its kind that has so much “how-to” alterations and modifications regarding the S-30 Z cars, including pics, part numbers, etc in regards to performance enhancements to the entire car, not just a V-8 engine swap. A lot of the info in that manual is useful even for the L-6 or other hybrid swaps as well. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Datsun_Z_V-8.html

Hanson, ABSOLUTELY!!!!! Of course you would want to make sure the primary resistance of the coil/coil pack you intend to use is at least comparable to the primary resistance of the EDIS coil pack in an effort to reduce the chances of burning up the EDIS Module. The EDIS “module” IS the igniter for the EDIS Ignition system so by default, the coil packs for EDIS-x do not have igniters built in. The Ford coil packs and the Chrysler coil packs we use with EDIS are essentially, in function, standard individual coils packaged in a single housing and each coil has two output terminals instead of just one like a standard DIZZY coil. The “EDIS module”, (the Igniter for the coils used with the Ford EDIS-x ignition systems), is the doohickey in the bottom left corner of this picture. Hope that helps,

Someone was really paying attention when I posted pics of the original BRAAP car… Ron’s new car is the original Datsun Orange, (picture makes it ”look” red), my car was red with orange metal flake. Also, Ron’s new car is a 260, mine was a ’75 280. Though the pics do look an awful lot alike ?!?!?! Mine... Rons...

I heard a rumor that Cary drives a 280-Z and she even volunteered it for one of the episodes?… . Can anyone confirm that?

Hang on fella’s. There are a lot of "maybes" and "I thinks" being posted which is only adding confusion to confusion. For clarity sakes lets only post absolute definites and if possible, show pics if able. I do have complete running and parts cars including an early ’70, ’73, ’74-1/2 ’75, ’76, ’77, ’78, ’82, ’85, I just don’t have the time right now to go out and strip the doors and take pics, sorry. … Lets start over as to what will and what wont fit a 260 in regards to door internals such as glass and window regulators. Pretty much the only items from a 280 ZX that can transplant in “bolt in” fashion to the early Z cars, i.e. ’70-’78 240-280Z, is the engine, transmission and differential. The body and all associated components of the body on the 280ZX is for all intensive purposes a completely different car than the earlier 240, 260 and 280Z, including the suspension. Now as for the early cars, the ’77 and ’78 280 Z have totally different doors internally. The regulators, door locks, and even the door panels are particular to the ’77 and ’78 cars and are not interchangeable amongst any other Z cars. Even the door itself wont interchange as the striker is completely different. As for “just” the glass alone, I’m not 100% sure the ’77 and ’78 glass will bolt into the ’70-’76 glass track. 2+2 and Coupe door parts wont interchange either. Hope that helps.

... "He's gettin a DELL dude"..